Need help! Lumintop FW3

18 posts / 0 new
Last post
scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York
Need help! Lumintop FW3

Hello all
I bought an FW3 from Illumin in copper
Came today
Their service was great, BUT
The light does not work!
On inserting a battery (FROM THE FRONT) I get one quick flash when the top is about half screwed down.
then NOTHING, NADA
Just does not turn on at all.
Used a Samsung 30Q and an Orbitronics high drain, no difference,
Everything is screwed down tight, tail cap was NOT removed.
Anyone got any ideas???

CalvinIS
CalvinIS's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 18 min ago
Joined: 11/29/2012 - 03:29
Posts: 981
Location: San Jose, CA

Couple possible troubleshooting steps to take:
1. Remove the head and battery.
2. Completely unscrew the tailcap (Do this over a table so no parts get lost)
3. Reseat the command tube (black tube inside the battery tube)
4. Verify the nub between the switch and rubber is sitting centered in the hole (check THIS post for visual confirmation and more instructions)
5. After you reassemble the tail switch and have the command tube reseated, tighten the tailcap all the way down. 
6. Check the head driver retaining ring, loosen and tighten.
7. Test light.

USA based seller of flashlights, batteries, and chargers.
Illumn Webstore
 /// Instagram /// BLF DEAL THREAD

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

It started to work after driving me nuts all afternoon.
Here is what I think is the actual problem!
The inner tube does not align properly with the contact rings on the tail cap and especially on the head. I had the retaining ring off and on a couple of times, finally I loosened it and made sure the board was centered. VOILA it works! Then I pulled the battery and reinstalled, did not work!
A couple of on and off of the cap and it started working.
So probably an issue of the contact between the rings and the tube.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

So my next question is, why are they so intent about telling you not to remove the tail cap, then you have to take it off to get the light to work. And to remove the clip.
What is so special about the tail cap?
I took it apart and put it back together (switch was NOT the issue) and it was easy, no sweat. Are the threads going to wear out or something.
BTW, with the clip removed the tail cap seems to screw in slightly more, giving better contact. Sometimes the quarter turn to lock out does not work now, it stays lit until the head is more than 2/3 off!

Speed2z28
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 06/16/2019 - 14:46
Posts: 15
scosgt wrote:
So my next question is, why are they so intent about telling you not to remove the tail cap, then you have to take it off to get the light to work. And to remove the clip. What is so special about the tail cap? I took it apart and put it back together (switch was NOT the issue) and it was easy, no sweat. Are the threads going to wear out or something. BTW, with the clip removed the tail cap seems to screw in slightly more, giving better contact. Sometimes the quarter turn to lock out does not work now, it stays lit until the head is more than 2/3 off!

As discussed in the linked thread from CalvinIS, the components that makeup the tail switch are held in place with the friction of the tailcap and body screwed together. One of the most important components of the tail switch is a little plastic nub “nubbin” that can get lost very easily if the components of the tail switch fallout when you remove the tailcap, then the flashlight will no longer turn on. Nothings is stopping you from changing the battery from the tailcap end, but if you lose the nubbin, and are left with a nonworking flashlight it’s on you. I believe that the flashlight was designed for people to use the four-click lockout that’s built into the UI.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

On the light that was delivered to me today, the assembly is held together by a ring, just like on the front.
I guess they changed it, no reason for that disclaimer to be in the box any more. The switch will NOT fall apart unless you unscrew the lock ring.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

However the mechanical lockout does not always work. Sometimes I can almost get the head totally off and the light remains on – of course the switch does not work. Suspect that something is shorting out. But there should not be current in the threads since it is carried by the inner tube which should not contact the body. Although it probably does when partly unscrewed.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2827
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

It is an electronic switch. This e-switch does not transfer power, but only the signals (to power on/of etc).
If you execute an old fashioned lockout (¼ turn), you disengage the e-switch, not the power transfer.
You already found out that the power is only interrupted when the head almost comes off.
That’s why there is a software lockout by the e-switch. Four clicks when power is OFF.
When the lockout is activated, the switch acts as a momentary switch (press=on), with moon/low as result.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

BurningPlayd0h
BurningPlayd0h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 02:16
Posts: 690
Location: MN
scosgt wrote:
However the mechanical lockout does not always work.

It’s a necessary aspect of the light’s design that there is no practical physical lockout. I can unscrew the head on mine several turns while its on before it shuts off.

CalvinIS
CalvinIS's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 18 min ago
Joined: 11/29/2012 - 03:29
Posts: 981
Location: San Jose, CA

scosgt wrote:
However the mechanical lockout does not always work. Sometimes I can almost get the head totally off and the light remains on - of course the switch does not work. Suspect that something is shorting out. But there should not be current in the threads since it is carried by the inner tube which should not contact the body. Although it probably does when partly unscrewed.

Power is flowing through the threads of the flashlight, the inner tube carries the signal from the switch. It will definitely have current in the threads when partly unscrewed.

USA based seller of flashlights, batteries, and chargers.
Illumn Webstore
 /// Instagram /// BLF DEAL THREAD

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York
Henk4U2 wrote:
It is an electronic switch. This e-switch does not transfer power, but only the signals (to power on/of etc). If you execute an old fashioned lockout (¼ turn), you disengage the e-switch, not the power transfer. You already found out that the power is only interrupted when the head almost comes off. That’s why there is a software lockout by the e-switch. Four clicks when power is OFF. When the lockout is activated, the switch acts as a momentary switch (press=on), with moon/low as result.

You are correct of course. But you said it way better than I could.
So, it appears that the issue was that I was getting power, but the switch could not communicate due to the driver being off center.
That being said, I want to say again: There is a lock ring for the switch. The tail cap, at least on mine, can be removed at will.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

And another question:
I have it set to ramping, but at several points going up or down there is a double blink. Did I manage to hit something different than stepless ramping? I have several lights with this system, but I never really messed with it, I am happy with the default settings. Or did I somehow manage to get it off default?

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2827
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

Not wanting to call anybody a fool, the design of the rear part of the light is not totally fool proof.
When someone tries to use it in a way it was never designed for.
Flawless operation of the light depends on the inner tube being parallel with the outer tube (body).
And because the inner tube is not secured, alignment is challenged every time you remove the tail cap.
So the best advice is to leave that part of the light alone if it is functioning well.
(remember the old Zen matra: if it works, don’t fix it)

Furthermore: the rear threads are fine and tri-angular. And are really not designed for frequent usage.
The front threads are course and square. To last longer if you have to change batteries often.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2827
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)
scosgt wrote:
And another question: I have it set to ramping, but at several points going up or down there is a double blink. Did I manage to hit something different than stepless ramping? I have several lights with this system, but I never really messed with it, I am happy with the default settings. Or did I somehow manage to get it off default?

The FW3A uses a FET+7+1 driver. So, three power channels:

1xAMC7135 chip for 0 to 350mA 7xAMC7135 chips for 350mA to 2.8 A FET for 2.8 A to full power (direct drive)

My best guess is that you see a double flash every time you “switch into next gear”.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York
Henk4U2 wrote:
scosgt wrote:
And another question: I have it set to ramping, but at several points going up or down there is a double blink. Did I manage to hit something different than stepless ramping? I have several lights with this system, but I never really messed with it, I am happy with the default settings. Or did I somehow manage to get it off default?

The FW3A uses a FET+7+1 driver. So, three power channels:

1xAMC7135 chip for 0 to 350mA 7xAMC7135 chips for 350mA to 2.8 A FET for 2.8 A to full power (direct drive)

My best guess is that you see a double flash every time you “switch into next gear”.

Thank you

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

Henk4U2 wrote:
Not wanting to call anybody a fool, the design of the rear part of the light is not totally fool proof.
When someone tries to use it in a way it was never designed for.
Flawless operation of the light depends on the inner tube being parallel with the outer tube (body).
And because the inner tube is not secured, alignment is challenged every time you remove the tail cap.
So the best advice is to leave that part of the light alone if it is functioning well.
(remember the old Zen matra: if it works, don’t fix it)

Furthermore: the rear threads are fine and tri-angular. And are really not designed for frequent usage.
The front threads are course and square. To last longer if you have to change batteries often.

It is not foolish on my part to receive a new light with a written warning against taking off the tail cap, then receiving instructions from the seller (above) to take off the tail cap LOL.
Apparently they started putting a lock ring on there because people were losing switch parts.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 2827
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

scosgt wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
Not wanting to call anybody a fool, the design of the rear part of the light is not totally fool proof.
When someone tries to use it in a way it was never designed for.
Flawless operation of the light depends on the inner tube being parallel with the outer tube (body).
And because the inner tube is not secured, alignment is challenged every time you remove the tail cap.
So the best advice is to leave that part of the light alone if it is functioning well.
(remember the old Zen matra: if it works, don’t fix it)

Furthermore: the rear threads are fine and tri-angular. And are really not designed for frequent usage.
The front threads are course and square. To last longer if you have to change batteries often.

It is not foolish on my part to receive a new light with a written warning against taking off the tail cap, then receiving instructions from the seller (above) to take off the tail cap LOL.
Apparently they started putting a lock ring on there because people were losing switch parts.

Sounds contradictory. But not quite, when you think about it.
The note was to leave the tail cap alone, assuming that the delicate fine tuning was a success.
Then the Zen mantra applies: if it works, don’t fix it.
But if it does not work, the advice of the seller is the best: re-assemble the tail cap combo (very carefully).

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

scosgt
Online
Last seen: 13 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 374
Location: New York

Not to draw out this thread, but now that the light is working WOW. Just wow.
It is brighter than my Rofis MR70, which WAS my fave small light.
It just got overtaken. The output of this light is just astounding.
That being said, it does step down quickly and gets HOT. And I do mean HOT.
Still way smaller and lighter than the Rofis. I think I will keep it.