Lumintop FW1A discussion and review

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bmengineer
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samyy wrote:
How long does it work on the max output? I guess longer than FW3A, but how much longer?

It’s still a FET light designed to be as light weight as possible. Without cooling and on full turbo all 3 of my FWxA lights have a drastic step down within the first minute, as expected.

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samyy wrote:
How long does it work on the max output? I guess longer than FW3A, but how much longer?

The sustainable level should be pretty similar to FW3A, but it throws a lot farther at that level.

As for the initial ramp-down, it probably happens a bit later and a bit slower, but I expect it’ll still be less than a minute. I probably should have measured that before modding it…

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ToyKeeper wrote:
samyy wrote:
How long does it work on the max output? I guess longer than FW3A, but how much longer?

The sustainable level should be pretty similar to FW3A, but it throws a lot farther at that level.

As for the initial ramp-down, it probably happens a bit later and a bit slower, but I expect it’ll still be less than a minute. I probably should have measured that before modding it…

Thank you for even doing all that you do for us. Smile It does make me think when I pick up a light what to do after clicking it on. I have bistro, ramping two versions and Anduril at least two versions. Thanks.
Chris

Chris

christoph
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I should have said for me because I can’t speak for other than myself. THANK YOU

Chris

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I tried the FW1A today for biking. It was pretty decent.

Normally I use a triple with 10510 optic, which makes an elliptical beam. It does a great job of showing me what’s directly in front of me and what’s to the side for turns, and it mostly keeps the worst of the beam out of people’s eyes. But it doesn’t really reach far enough forward. So a throwy light was a nice change.

The FW1A’s extra throw was nice when going fast in a straight line, but not so great when turning or going slow. So I’ll have to put in a different LED or add some DC-Fix, and try it again. I found an XP-L 3D (with dome), so maybe that will work a little better than this XP-L HI 1A.

I got some DC-Fix like material from Boaz’s DC-Fix thread that should mimic an elliptical optic. I haven’t actually tried it yet, though. Might be an option:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

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I went to Lumintop’s Facebook page and asked them if they plan to make the FW1A in more colors.

They said “Hi, only grey color so far”

Yes Lumintop, I know that.

I guess they have no Idea either.

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jasontheguitarist wrote:
I went to Lumintop’s Facebook page and asked them if they plan to make the FW1A in more colors.

They said “Hi, only grey color so far”

Yes Lumintop, I know that.

I guess they have no Idea either.

That’s a shame my FW3T needs a brother to match lol.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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I for one like the gray aluminum. It allows for no guilt when carrying a light and it gets scratched, dropped or otherwise boogered up. I have several copper, brass and titanium lights that I don’t carry for fear of damaging them.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I hope the FW1A sticks around, because it’s a good design. But it doesn’t have a list of literally thousands of people waiting to buy it like the FW3A did, so I don’t expect it will be as popular or have as many flavors.

Plus, many of us now have quite a few FW3As so it’s difficult to justify buying more. I’m at the point where I have a whole line-up to choose from when I want a light… can be hard to decide between purple 3D, bare 3D, grey 219B, grey 5A, copper SST-20, purple 219C, and FW1A. Plus, of course, all the other lights on my desk…

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I just got a response from Neal, and he said there will be a FW1T. He also mentioned a SS FW3A without knurling. That sounds interesting.

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trakcon wrote:
I just got a response from Neal, and he said there will be a FW1T.

Big Smile

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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trakcon wrote:
SS FW3A without knurling. That sounds interesting.

Is someone playing a game of how fried they can get their LEDs?

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bmengineer wrote:
trakcon wrote:
SS FW3A without knurling. That sounds interesting.

Is someone playing a game of how fried they can get their LEDs?

Steel can be pretty nice, as long as weight isn’t importand and the LEDs inside aren’t turned up too high.

In a FW3A, I’m guessing a steel version would probably regulate down to the regulation floor, and then mostly just stay there. Steel is good at keeping the heat in, so the highest sustainable level is probably just a couple hundred lumens.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I hope the FW1A sticks around, because it’s a good design. But it doesn’t have a list of literally thousands of people waiting to buy it like the FW3A did, so I don’t expect it will be as popular or have as many flavors.

Plus, many of us now have quite a few FW3As so it’s difficult to justify buying more. I’m at the point where I have a whole line-up to choose from when I want a light… can be hard to decide between purple 3D, bare 3D, grey 219B, grey 5A, copper SST-20, purple 219C, and FW1A. Plus, of course, all the other lights on my desk…

I have FW3A, FW3C, FW3T and FW1A

I wish they were FW1A, FW1C, FW1T and FW3A

I really like the FW1A, I guess I’m tired of TIR + multi led flashlights

maba
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Very cool flashlight!

But in my FW1A there was no gasket under the glass Sad

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maba, I said it on FB, but I’ll say it here, too. Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to this one. I’d really like to see how it compares to the SC64 and S2+.

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maba wrote:
in my FW1A there was no gasket under the glass Sad


Gasket?

It should have these parts, stacked in this order:

  • Bezel
  • O-ring
  • Lens
  • Reflector
  • Centering ring
  • MCPCB with LED

There is no gasket.

From the pics you posted, your FW1A appears to have the correct parts.

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maba wrote:


What a great collection!
This leads me to want the FW1A Tired Silly

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3/ 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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Funny, I was going to say it leads me to want a D1 and two Zebralights.

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Before that picture, I thought the Unicorn was shorter and narrower. I assumed it was the size of a SC64.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
maba wrote:
in my FW1A there was no gasket under the glass Sad


Gasket?

It should have these parts, stacked in this order:

  • Bezel
  • O-ring
  • Lens
  • Reflector
  • Centering ring
  • MCPCB with LED

There is no gasket.

From the pics you posted, your FW1A appears to have the correct parts.

Maybe he means the o-ring between the bezel and lens?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

BurningPlayd0h
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Gasket = o-ring

maba
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BOO5TED wrote:
Maybe he means the o-ring between the bezel and lens?

Yes

ToyKeeper wrote:
From the pics you posted, your FW1A appears to have the correct parts.

Because I took from the backup FW3A, otherwise there was a rattle Big Smile

These orings are a bit too small and too thick: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1088607

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Hi all,

I’ve been introduced here by stephenk from a post on Light Painting Blog.

As a lightpainter, from what I’ve read, I think FW1A is one of the best flashlight to have in our arsenal. Especially because of Andúril and its new momentary strobe feature.

Could someone tell me if the FW1A has the new July update of Andúril firmware?
I read FW3A/1A drivers aren’t updated yet by Lumintop…

Thanks

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Frazil wrote:
Hi all,

I’ve been introduced here by stephenk from a post on Light Painting Blog.

As a lightpainter, from what I’ve read, I think FW1A is one of the best flashlight to have in our arsenal. Especially because of Andúril and its new momentary strobe feature.

Could someone tell me if the FW1A has the new July update of Andúril firmware?
I read FW3A/1A drivers aren’t updated yet by Lumintop…

Thanks

ToyKeeper probably knows, is there any way I can check? I know this version has the two stage lockout, but no factory reset.

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

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Frazil wrote:
I’ve been introduced here by stephenk from a post on Light Painting Blog.

As a lightpainter, from what I’ve read, I think FW1A is one of the best flashlight to have in our arsenal. Especially because of Andúril and its new momentary strobe feature.

Could someone tell me if the FW1A has the new July update of Andúril firmware?
I read FW3A/1A drivers aren’t updated yet by Lumintop…

I’ve only tried one FW1A, but it has momentary strobes. I think almost all FW3A / FW1A lights are shipping with a version new enough to include that now.

Checking is relatively simple… go to a strobe mode (“click, click, hold” from off), then turn the light off, then go to momentary mode (5 clicks from off) and press the button.

Getting out of momentary mode is a bit inconvenient on FW3A/FW1A though, since it requires disconnecting power. And on this light, that means unscrewing the battery tube pretty far. It’s much easier to exit momentary mode on other lights, like the Emisar D4.

The button placement may also be a consideration when choosing a light. Side switch or tail switch may be more convenient, depending on what you’re doing.

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Just received this light today and I absolutely love it. Great beam profile with the SST 20. One advantage of throwy reflector lights I’ve noticed is in tail standing to create diffuse light in a room. The candle mode in anduril is much more effective this way than with optics. Perfect for late night reading.

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Welcome to BLF , Frazil .

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Getting out of momentary mode is a bit inconvenient on FW3A/FW1A though, since it requires disconnecting power. And on this light, that means unscrewing the battery tube pretty far.

Ok. So there’s no manual momentary mode yet (your July update), but there is momentary stobes. I can easely live with that. Thanks for your help and your reply!

About the button placement: yup you’re absolutely right. That’s why I rather choose tail switch button flashlight. Because we often attach some sort of light diffuser (e.g. plexiglass) onto the head causing side switch difficult to reach.

bmengineer wrote:
I know this version has the two stage lockout, but no factory reset.

Thanks for your quick reply bmengineer. Useful tip.
Rdubya18 wrote:
Welcome to BLF

Thanks a lot Wink

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Frazil wrote:
Ok. So there’s no manual momentary mode yet (your July update), but there is momentary stobes.

The momentary mode supports regular (steady) output or anything in the strobe group (party strobe, tactical strobe, bike flasher, candle, lightning).

What it doesn’t have is “manual memory”, which makes the regular ramping mode start at the same brightness every time. Instead, it has only “automatic memory”, which uses the last-ramped level. Newer versions allow switching between these two. But that probably isn’t relevant for light painting, and doesn’t affect momentary mode.

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