Thanks, yeah I was suggesting to print a similar design as it would be much easier to make and fit for people who can’t mod.
I won’t link all the items but I’ll tell you what I used.
My methods are all about finding stuff and making it fit together using simple hand tools, use any technique that works, mostly…
My FW3A tailcap mod makes use of 14mm x 12mm 3k carbon fibre tube, 15mm x 14mm brass tube, 2mm x 3mm N52 neodymium round magnets, 8mm x 2mm steel bike chain spacer, 6mm x 1.5mm green tritium vial, UV setting glue, JB Kwik weld, 0.5mm silicone sheet plus the E-switch mod.
Kapton tape, cottonbuds, silicone grease, wooden toothpicks, paper towels, JB weld, scalpel blades etc are also consumables I use a lot of.
Maybe two to three hours work.
Difficult to explain the method and I’m not very good at explaining
So basically you would shape the CF tube to the correct size to fit into the tailcap hole, protruding through maybe 0.5mm on the inside and flush with the tail, press into place with something flat, check sizing etc.
I used a very thin piece of brass tube on the inside too for extra support but it’s probably not needed.
Once happy with the formed CF piece JB weld it in place with the tail cap facing down placed on a flat hard surface making sure it stays level with the end of the tailcap. Careful not to epoxy the whole thing to the flat surface.
Tidy up the JB weld before it fully sets, acetone on a cottonbud works for this.
Once set arrange the magnets on a lightly greased flat steel surface, apply JB weld and place the tailcap with the CF insert into place around them maintaining correct positions in a circle as best you can and tidy up/ press the epoxy with dampened cottonbuds, excess can be removed later.
The magnets stuck to the steel keep them level so you just need to keep the tailcap flat and magnets in place around the inside edge of the CF tube.
If you could find a suitably sized ring magnet this would be a lot easier.
I used thin flat silicone sheet in place of the original rubber boot, cut to fit, siliconed in place with a silicone o-ring in the original boot groove.
The button, made from an 8mm steel bike chain spacer I think, is dremmeled out on the underside to fit the tritium vial and UV glued in place, again using the flat surface method but using clear tape to make it smooth on the outside face.
The magnets will actually keep this in place but a little silicone on the underside to the silicone sheet can be applied too.
As you can tell, this is something that can’t really be made to send out which is why I thought a similar printed version might be an idea.