[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

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Tom E
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Dale, KB - you guys would probably be interested in the discussions here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69868 on another potential SBT-90.2 light.

Maybe Martin can find out more about the HL light being discussed.

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Tom E wrote:

Dale, KB – you guys would probably be interested in the discussions here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69868 on another potential SBT-90.2 light.


Maybe Martin can find out more about the HL light being discussed.

I don’t know if I will be still alive Crying to see it come to fruition due to the massive time consuming, opinion driven idea heavy process of being all BL-F’d up… Facepalm Plenty of Fins, Big reflector, Massive chunk of Copper and it’s 4P…. whats not to like, Lexel can make me a killer driver if I cant get this one to (ahem) perform…

I’m thinking this will get done sooner… prolly… Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Streamtronics wrote:

BaronVonEissler wrote:
OR Do you have to improvise like others have said, that is Turn it ON and then Two half presses for turbo. Supposedly can not be activated from the OFF position. ,Thanks

How is that improvising? That’s how I’d expect a reverse clicky to work. Either the driver memorizes turbo (to be determined I suppose? might be wonky) so you can access it from off once memorized OR, if it doesn’t, of course you’ll have to switch it on (full click) before telling it to go into turbo (double half-press/“tap”). A reverse clicky opens the circuit no matter if you fully click it or just half-press, to the driver it looks the same (it just loses power). It’s just faster to half-press, hence probably many people have issues accessing turbo mode cause they’re either doing full-presses (“clicks”) or they’re just not fast enough doing double taps – at least to me it sounds that way from the last few people reporting. 

Because It is terminology misperception between the dealers site“A CLICK” and doing a HALF PRESS as members have mentioned.

That was my point. Wink

DB Custom
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Thanks Tom, if the emitters were more readily available I’d just build my own. Already have the CFT-90 under a 95mm reflector and am duly impressed… even just using a single 32650 and Bistro driver.

I like the idea of using this light for this emitter, just haven’t been building lights lately so it’s much easier to get it pre-built. If I’m too late I may just rebuild the one I have…

Tom E
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DB Custom wrote:
Thanks Tom, if the emitters were more readily available I’d just build my own. Already have the CFT-90 under a 95mm reflector and am duly impressed... even just using a single 32650 and Bistro driver. I like the idea of using this light for this emitter, just haven’t been building lights lately so it’s much easier to get it pre-built. If I’m too late I may just rebuild the one I have...

Dang, I should have asked you before ordering, but I got in 3 SBT-90.2's mounted on 20 mm MCPCB's but total cost was $150: $36 each, $35 in shipping, $6.50 in PP fee, probably could have saved money with a bigger order.

To order them, contact: wendy@lantend.com. I ordered P/N: SBT-90-WDS-F72-SA600, where SA was the higher bin, the other they offered being the RB bin. Of course we don't know the bin of the SBT-90.2's in this N40 light, or any other SBT-90.2 for that matter. SBT-90.2 Spec sheet here on my google drive share - Wendy sent it to me.

So, from the spec sheet and part #, this should be ~5700K, what they call Daylight ("D") as opposed to cool white ("C").

Interesting thing is the RB is the lowest bin, then SA, then there are 5 more higher bins!

 

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Just received and tested mine. NI40 was tested with a brand new Molicel P42A which I charged yesterday. I used 2 24×30×2mm copper rings but haven’t sanded them yet so the perfomance should be slightly better once i’ve done that. Still have to clean all the other contacts too. The Astrolux FT03 was tested with an almost fully charged button top shockli but the glass is cracked and the reflector is slightly smudged from when I cleaned it with a kitchen towel (roll). Don’t think its affecting the perfomance that much though. So on to the numbers.

Ceiling Bounce:

FT03: 350
NI40: 660
NI40 High: Just under 300

Intensity:

about 3% less than the FT03

I will do more tests later with both lights. The FT03 should perform slightly better with a fully charged shockli flat top and the NI40 should also perform better once I’ve cleaned the contacts and rings. I did not have any problem getting into turbo. For me the trick is to half press it twice without thinking about the light flashing. At first i was waiting for it go to the next mode after the first press but that’s not what happens. After the first half press you dont see any light then the second click goes to turbo on the second half press. You just have to do it fast enough. If you wait too long it’ll just go to the next mode.

Note: For those using copper rings for 21700 compatibility please close the head side first then insert the cell and screw the tailcap on. When removing the cell also open the tail side like you’re supposed to. If you open the head there is risk of the copper ring moving and shorting the cell!

Tom E
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Just fyi, I finished the mod of a SBT90.2 in a 1504 zoomie, using a spare 1504 brass pill, 17 mm SIR800DP based driver, 22 AWG wires (small because of concerns with soldering in tight spaces). "Only" got about 21A max out of it but it does over 500 kcd measured at 5m, and not sure it's fully focused. Got some pics, hope can post soon.

Th558
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Ok so I sanded the rings and retested with fully charged cells. Dont know if they’re sanded properly but they look much better than before.

NI40
Shockli: 685 3s P42A : 769 3s, 730 30s, 723 40s

FT03
Shockli: 387 @ 3s

Neither cell dropped much at 30s Throw at 5 seconds turn on was about 3% less than the FT03 with the P42A. After a few turbo runs I still got almost 700 so the output doesn’t seem to drop much as the cell voltage does. Nagonka got 32% higher than shockli with a 40T. I got only 11-12% Maybe it’s the copper rings that are adding resistance. I want to try it with only one ring but I’m scared I might dent the battery.

Edit: Forgot to add that the turbo lasted for 1 min 15 sec before I felt the need to step it down. At this point I could touch the head for almost a second. Probably a bit under 60 degrees. This was when the battery was getting a bit low so the output was the same as a full shockli.

Th558
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If you can’t be bothered to read the above post

Turbo: Double of FT03 with Molicel P42A and copper rings to make the cell fit. 80% more than FT03 with shockli 5500.

Manual step down at 1:15

Intensity: About the same as FT03

Tom E
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Got the SBT-90.2 Stalker tonight. Did some quick tests, stock setup.

 

On a new Shockli 26650 at 4.19V: 17.3A, 217 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 4760-4440, or calibrated: 4200-3920 (at start - 30 secs)

Other measurements:

  • LK 5000 @4.07V: 16A, 205 kcd
  • 40T @4.17V: 19.3A (40T taken w/o tail)
  • iJoy 26650 4200: 16.9A
  • Aspire 26650 4300: 17.0A

No problems really for switching to turbo - did it several times. Coming out of turbo there's a flicker though. I much prefer my own custom 4 mode 13A firmware, where changing modes always starts at lowest, but it has mode memory. So for example if you are on medium, quick click goes to moon, next quick click goes to low, etc. This allows you to avoid the blast of hi/turbo, and no reason to have a special quirky double click for turbo (ugh).

Guess I'm just spoiled... smile

 

Update:

The GOLISI finished charging, results:

GOLISI @4.21V: 20.2A, 237 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 5240-4730, or calibrated: 4620-4180 (at start - 30 secs)

 

Hhmm. This seems to happen quite often  - the throw #'s are close to the rating while the measured lumens are low. I'm sure the spring bypasses will help, as KB did.

 

Th558
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Tom E wrote:

On a new Shockli 26650 at 4.19V: 17.3A, 217 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 4760-4440, or calibrated: 4200-3920 (at start – 30 secs)



Have you also measured the FT03? I’m getting only 80% more than it with the shockli. The FT03 is meant to be under 2000 so that would make it less than 3600. All of the cells you tested perform about the same as each other which is strange. Could it be the wires or spring that’s limiting the performance?
Tom E
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Yes - I got a FT03 SST-40 NW (it's important to note what model) that I measured. Amp readings on full cells was between 8 and 9.5A at the max.

 

On the 30T @4.21V: 9.5A, 253 kcd (taken at 5m), 2450-2160, calibrated: 2270-2004

Checking my notes, I see little difference from a LK 5000 cell, similar to a Shockli. Maybe 100-200 lumens less, ~240 kcd.

 

Tom E
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Anyone notice those 6 tube slots under the fins? Large trits? Maybe some passive or active cooling attachment designed to fit them? It's interesting for sure...

3x22.5's from Mixglo might fit.

Th558
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Tom E wrote:

Anyone notice those 6 tube slots under the fins? Large trits? Maybe some passive or active cooling attachment designed to fit them? It’s interesting for sure…


3×22.5’s from Mixglo might fit.


Yh I noticed that too. Don’t exactly know what they’re for.
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I remember that they called them innovative cooling design or something like that.

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Not sure if this was mentioned, but anyone else notice the solder jumper on the backside of the driver, next to the spring? It seems connected to an MCU pin, probably re-configures something in the UI.

 

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My NI40 came in while I was away for Thanksgiving. Just got home and popped in my charged up golisi’s.

DUUUUDE!

Love it! I compared it side by side with my catapult v6 and first off the tint is more toward the neutral side. On low, the NI 40 is ever so slightly green- but not objectionable so- each successive mode higher gets more neutral, less green, and more rosy. Medium mode is nicer than the cataput. The cat looks purple, the NI40 looks white.
High is really nice, and turbo is positively gorgeous.

The hot spot is about a third bigger than the cat, and the corona is much larger. It is a very useful beam. One of the reasons I didnt use the cat more is because if the pencil beam- just not broad enough.

I thought heat was going to be a major issue, and it may be in the summer, but it’s certainly not in the 20 degree weather we have right now. In 15 min of playing around with it it never got hot. Just a little warm

That’s actually a little disconcerting, making me wonder if heat is getting away from the led properly.

In turbo, it throws quite a bit more than the cat v6. I’ll measure relative throw later compared to the cat tomorrow.

Turbo is easy to get to, as long as you understand how the u/I works. You can get there by double tapping from on, in any mode. But it is not in the regular mode cycle. It does memorize turbo if left on for more than a few seconds. Double tapping does require some finesse, a light touch. Push too hard and it clicks off. It will still come on turbo if you turn it back on quickly- the driver does not care whether you double tap or turn off by clicking fully quickly twice.

Have to say again that I really like this tint. It is on the white side of neutral, but still being rosy if that’s possible. Reminds me of my old k40m with the mtg2.

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Mine gets pretty hot after 5 minutes on high which is about 55% of turbo. The tint looks greenish to me on all settings apart from turbo. On the lowest setting it’s very noticeable. Once my eyes have adjusted to the colour it doesn’t look too bad though.

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Th558 wrote:
Mine gets pretty hot after 5 minutes on high which is about 55% of turbo. The tint looks greenish to me on all settings apart from turbo. On the lowest setting it’s very noticeable. Once my eyes have adjusted to the colour it doesn’t look too bad though.

Looks like I may have won the tint lottery on this one. Ive always thought my cat v6 had a very pure white tint, until I compared to the NI40.

I’ll compare it to some of my other neutral white lights tomorrow. Maybe I’ll post some side by side beam shotsif I can figure out how to get my pics to show up.

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Just got my NI40 SBT90.2 version

With a fully charged Vapcell 5500mah 26650 (same as Shockli), I measured the following (lumens taken at 2sec)

Lowest Mode:
Output: 50 LM
CCT: 5071K
DUV: 0.0175
Ra (CRI): 67.8

2nd Lowest Mode:
Output: 547 LM
CCT: 5332K
DUV: 0.0127
Ra (CRI): 67.6

3rd Lowest Mode:
Output: 1027 LM
CCT: 5530K
DUV: 0.0095
Ra (CRI): 67.8

Highest Mode:
Output: 1828 LM
CCT: 5747K
DUV: 0.0065
Ra (CRI): 67.8

Turbo (double half click):
Output: 3707 LM
CCT: 6127K
DUV: 0.0016
Ra (CRI): 68.5
R9: -25.9
R12: 40.7
Rf: 64
Rg: 96

With a Golisi 26650, I measured 4,241 lumens at 2sec.

Despite the high duv, it doesn’t look all that green except the lowest mode. The brightest two modes look pretty pure white. The hotspot is very big and round.

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Mine is out for delivery. I do not have the equipment like some of you. You guys do a good job with that.

What I can do is I can provide you with some pretty good beam shots with Zero Light Pollution.That will have to wait a few days. Snow for next 24/36 hours.

I already know it will eat the battery on turbo. My MT35 XHP50.2 is about 4000Lumens. After 10 minutes of combined turbo the voltage was 3.58V. That measurement was taken about 7 seconds after load removed. Guess it was more like 3.3/3.4V immediately after turn off. That was with a Golisi 26650 4300mAh 35A battery.

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EDIT: So there is no confusion I forgot to add that mine is the SBT90.2 Version.

Just got it. Switch works fine. When light is ON-Double half-press from ANY mode gets turbo.Mode memory was sporadic. Solidly built light, a little top heavy which is fine for me.I am guessing, more mass/more heat sinking? That is good.

This is a visual observation-It “Appears” to step down around 2 minutes with an indoor temperature of 64F/18C. Tail stand with no fan.When 3 minutes hits loss of output it is very visible with the eye.Aborted first test trying to make 5 minute increments.

Starting voltage for Aspire 26650 4300mAh was 4.19V.

After 10 minutes combined turbo [2 ON/2 OFF]the Voltage with An Aspire 26650 4300mAh is 3.62v. Measurement was 8 seconds after load was removed.Probably 0.10v to 0.30v lower at exact moment load was removed?

Basically eats it on Turbo at the same rate as my MT35 XHP50.2.[3.58v after 10 minutes of combined turbo]. Different LED and the NI40 has about 500 to 1000 more lumens

Comparison with FT03

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BaronVonEissler wrote:
Just got it. Switch works fine. When light is ON-Double half-press from ANY mode gets turbo.Mode memory was sporadic. Solidly built light, a little top heavy which is fine for me.I am guessing, more mass/more heat sinking? That is good.

This is a visual observation-It “Appears” to step down around 2 minutes with an indoor temperature of 64F/18C. Tail stand with no fan.When 3 minutes hits loss of output it is very visible with the eye.Aborted first test trying to make 5 minute increments.

After 10 minutes combined turbo [2 ON/2 OFF]the Voltage with An Aspire 26650 4300mAh is 3.62v. Measurement was 8 seconds after load was removed.Probably 0.10v to 0.30v lower at exact moment load was removed?

Basically eats it on Turbo at the same rate as my MT35 XHP50.2.[3.58v after 10 minutes of combined turbo]. Different LED and the NI40 has about 500 to 1000 more lumens

Comparison with FT03

!{width:46%}https://i.postimg.cc/8CHQ14Dj/NI40-FT03.jpg!

Double half press turns on turbo from OFF also on yours?
Thanks

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^^^^

NO. The light must be ON to activate any mode. This kind of switch does Nothing until it is ON.There is No “momentary”.

Cloud
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Thank you

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Cloud wrote:
Thank you

You are welcome. Beer

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I like the light. Great LED. I still may do a “Catch and release” unless I can find someone to make changes. My Cousin Otto lives in Germany, that is to far!

Two wishes.
1. It had Narsil so I could disable the step down, 50C[I knew this] is way to low of a temp. setting .

2. The battery world would catch up to all these awesome LED’S we have. 8 to 10 minutes of Max output is not enough time!

These pictures are not that good. Did not hold phone steady enough and misty conditions. Tomorrow night Will be better clear and 15F. I will compare to MT35 XHP50.2 4000 lumens ~ 180Kcd

Tree is 100 yards away.

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Just to not the driver is easily replaceable, but it's a power switch, so something like Bistro or Biscotti would have to be used. This driver from MtnE would be about perfect with lots of firmware options, but he's got it listed out of stock. I can confirm it takes a 22 mm driver - measured 21.9 mm.

Probably can get a 22 mm Lexel driver here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59022

 

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Tom E wrote:

Just to not the driver is easily replaceable, but it’s a power switch, so something like Bistro or Biscotti would have to be used. This driver from MtnE would be about perfect with lots of firmware options, but he’s got it listed out of stock. I can confirm it takes a 22 mm driver – measured 21.9 mm.


Probably can get a 22 mm Lexel driver here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59022


 

Thanks. But I do not know how to mod lights like many of you.

Does that set up eliminate or at least raise the step down to 70/75C?

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You can read up on options there on that page, but looks like Bistro or BLF A6 can be set to have a turbo timer up to 180 secs, or disabled completely. Yes, unfortunately it will still require soldering of the LED wires.

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