I'm sure that I'm the latest of many who have wanted to improve on the heat management of the ubiquitous P60 format, especially with the newer LEDs.
Here's an overview of the concept:
*Fitment for Solarforce (SF) bezels, the least-expensive quality offering.
*Extra mass and fins for heat management.
*Uses all existing O-rings and lenses from SF bezel.
A couple of hours on the lathe yielded this:
This one has been approved by the sitting regent, Max :
The original idea was to have it removable. I was going to drill and tap a hole in the bottom fin for a set screw, but it got late, and it got Arctic Silvered to the SF bezel.
The bezel and bezel ring were both de-anodized using Orange Blast ("Made With Orange Oil!") The ring took less time than the bezel.
The next iteration will likely have a set screw, as well as a different diameter. I had 44.5mm on-hand, so the finished diameter is 44mm. :)
I plan on making a similar head for a triple XM-L with optics.
I'm not sure I get it - did you cut fins in bar stock then open it up to fit over the head? Or you made a whole new head?! If that's the case...you found a P60 size tap?
pardon my ignorance. I'm probably the only member that doesn't own a P60 or at least the only one w/ more than a dozen lights that doesn't own one
Really, the most puzzling thing here, is where you found a cat that will let you do that lol
Ok...
one more question. Have you tried applying Orange Blast accurately - ie could you mask a section (say w/ aluminum tape) and get a decent line on the unstripped anodizing?
Very nicely done! Similar to what I was considering though the mental image I had involved thinner fins. Something along the lines of the heat sink fins on a nitro RC engine.
I'm curious to see what kind of temperature difference you notice.
Thicker fins meant fewer cuts. I made the bottom fin 4mm for tapping, the rest are 3mm. Spacing is 2mm.
The next version will likely have more (and thinner) fins.
[quote=dthrckt]
I'm not sure I get it - did you cut fins in bar stock then open it up to fit over the head? Or you made a whole new head?! If that's the case...you found a P60 size tap?......
Really, the most puzzling thing here, is where you found a cat that will let you do that lol
Ok...
one more question. Have you tried applying Orange Blast accurately - ie could you mask a section (say w/ aluminum tape) and get a decent line on the unstripped anodizing?
[/quote]
This is the first time I've used OB to remove anno. It's not as caustic as Drano, so a bit safer with which to work.
I cut down a piece of 44.5mm round bar to fit over one of these:
My thoughts are that this is a great idea...though I would want one done in HAIII matte black if possible and being able to use Xeno bezel rings since they've actually matched Surefire on that. Don't get me wrong as I love Solarforce, but the one thing they did differently threadwise is the threads on the bezel ring. Xeno bezels rings are about the same price and again truely follows the Surefire C/P format completely. Ebay seller hkequipment sells Xeno bezels and will give you a better price if you email them directly.
one suggestion, do a v cut, instead of square. or put a step in your tool and get 2 fins (one ~half height) per cut. but that's just throwing out ideas (since I have no p60) :(
or at least the only one w/ more than a dozen lights that doesn't own one 
I made the bottom fin 4mm for tapping, the rest are 3mm. Spacing is 2mm.
