Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

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BurningPlayd0h
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Joshk wrote:
But that is totally not the opinion of the general population on BLF. Opinion here is that nothing trumps a 219b.

Many people wanting rosy tints for flashlights (although many don’t for ultimate sunlight/color accuracy) leads them to the 219B as it’s the only high CRI flashlight-sized emitter that offers it. Many here are aware the Optisolis, several brands of COBs and other products still blow them away in CRI/R9/R12/etc.

contactcr
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Problem is solved with tint mixing so kind of a moot point. Leave 219B behind already. There is plenty of space and diffusion in a lightbulb to not have to consider 219B, ever.

Joshk
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Alright, I’m good with that.

Dalamar
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I can confirm the 1600 lumen Hyperikons fry themselves after a few months. I have heard the 800s do not but they should also be a lot less hot. You literally can’t touch them they are so hot.

Joshk wrote:
Oh, I agree with you 100% about Nichia 219b not being the best and COBs being better. But that is totally not the opinion of the general population on BLF. Opinion here is that nothing trumps a 219b.

Literally no one is selling better emitters in good lights, like the FF E07…we are stuck with 219b until China offers better in mass production…I would kill for Optisolis in my lights
Only thing that comes close to 219B SW45 in products you can actually obtain is the SST20 with its crappy 3800k greenish CCT.

I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:

Fireflies E07 219B SW45

Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)

Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)

Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k

Klarus Mi7

 

Varmint removal (throw):

Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)

Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)

Lumintop ODL20C

cetary
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That depends on the bin you get. Some manufacturers have been better then others green wise with better bins. The 4000K and 3500K 219B also biase pretty warm if I remember to. I’d kill for some E21A multi-emitter lights. Optisolis is pretty good, but it’s limited current wise, and the E21A has good tint and better CCT flexibility.

Slim Pickens
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Anybody have any experience with Ketra’s A20 and PAR36 bulbs? They have a fully-adjustable CCT from 1400k to 10000k @ >90 CRI. CCT is maintained within one Macadam ellipse (centered on the black body locus?) as LEDs age using a control loop that monitors output.

https://www.ketra.com/led-lighting-products/lamps/a20

VaKo
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High CRI RA95 E27 7W COB LED Bulb

I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.

Dalamar
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I forgot to mention California’s title 24 lighting requirement makes finding cheap good lights easier. It requires min 80 r9 but the cheap ones like Phillips are usually max 3000k. Took like 2 years for that law to dent the scammy high cri market……of course lobbyists complained…

I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:

Fireflies E07 219B SW45

Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)

Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)

Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k

Klarus Mi7

 

Varmint removal (throw):

Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)

Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)

Lumintop ODL20C

Joshk
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That’s strict. I like it Big Smile

Joshk
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I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike).
Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs!
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69967

xevious
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I discovered Sylvania A19 LED bulbs, 3000K. $1.50 at dollar store. They look great, no PWM, and not even warm to the touch.

Joshk
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They seem to have a CRI of 80 and nothing more published. That’s a bad sign.

likevvii
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I really want to make a batch of optisolis bulbs (spot type 45deg) for all around my house. 120VAC

What bulb can fit the nichia optisolis VS35SP36?

What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?

The best case scenario is if the bulb already outputs at 1S or 3S which the VS35SP36 can change to. And then, I just pull out the original LEDs and place the mcpcb on top.

I have never modded a bulb before so I assume they glue them very well for safety. I don’t mind cutting and regluing or things similar to this.

Joshk
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Yea this seems like a good option to me too. But I haven’t sacrificed one of everything yet to find a good host.

Dalamar
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likevvii wrote:
What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?

If you’re talking a standard, smooth a19 or a21 shape with a plastic or glass cover then likely 7-10 watts max, about like a flashlight. Older more expensive wavy bases can probably dissipate more heat, but you don’t see those any more. Those big corn shape ones might do a little more but since it’s ultimately going to sink at the base where your power circuitry is, I wouldn’t bet any money unless you’ve got a fan pointed at it. Power circuitry is where most of my lights have failed excluding some crappy chinese sticks (leds and pcb literally burned first on that)

I’m picking up this but don’t have any testing gear, but I can already predict the disappointment because I seriously doubt it can dissipate the heat… https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3d...
On the other hand since it supports a wider power input maybe it will survive this crazy 125v “green” utility power that kills everything except incandescents around here…Landlord said all the common LED makers told him they will not warranty unless he installed power conditioning…

I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:

Fireflies E07 219B SW45

Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)

Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)

Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k

Klarus Mi7

 

Varmint removal (throw):

Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)

Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)

Lumintop ODL20C

fneuf
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I've taken the opportunity of some 11.11 free time to update and migrate our original old "High CRI table".

It is now a Google Doc, easily readable and shareable online.

It contains all the numbers and info we have shared here so far, including direct links to the various tests for references. Doing that I realised there was an error with the "Qf" formula, now corrected. Hope you all will enjoy it, and that it will ease readability.

As always, please feel free to make suggestions or corrections.

I've updated it to be up to date of this topic, feel also free to point me any missing info.

Rise and Shine my precious...

fneuf
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Joshk wrote:
I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike). Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69967 

 

May I suggest that instead of having two topics on BLF for a common subject, we unit our energy and efforts towards one community goal? As proposed and already started in this topic, I'm pleased to discuss formula/scale, bulbs, or any other matter.

Rise and Shine my precious...

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