Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

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Joshk
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I asked my daughter’s optometrist if my high power LED flashlights were at risk of causing eye damage to her if she played with them. He said no, they don’t emit UV or IR, so no worries. And from what I saw with my spectrometer, the output was nothing at the edges of vision. So basically, your reflexes will detect and prevent any damage.

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SunLike wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Sunlike, so all of these are + duv? I’m looking for some – duv lights for more rosy tint.

you mean violet spectrum?

No, not violet (~380 to ~450 nm wavelength light). It’s more purple or pink, created by combining red and blue. Purple doesn’t have a wavelength; it only exists as a sum of two other colors.

Duv is the overall tint in relation to the blackbody line. In a white spectrum, pure white is shown by the dotted line here. On one side of the line is green, and on the other side is pink:

Most people prefer slightly pink lights, so it is desirable to produce a tint with a negative duv value.

One of the easiest ways to make a pink tint is to combine LEDs which are far apart in color temperature. When blended, the mixture falls below the pure white line. For example, this shows the colors which can be created by mixing pure white 5000K and 2700K:

It works because the color space is curved, but the mixed tint line is straight. But to work well, the two tints should be far apart. Mixing 4000K and 4500K would not accomplish much, but mixing 3000K and 5500K should look very nice.

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One of the reason why I will use 3030 sunlike leds (finally) in 8w cheap model was color mixing (another was price and much more power than their old 3030)

I use 4000k, it is better for me than 5000k, but! but 4300-4200 will more better than 4000k. So, now I can mix any colors.

For example 3:1, 2:1, 1:1


For example, 5600-5700 is not white, it is with blue tint (that is I feeling)
Most white for my eyes was when I mixed 5600 and 4000 (SOL) to 5200-5300k. It was most white color what I saw without blue tint (color shade)
———————————
And of course, you can mix any colors for duv what you want =)
———————————
upd

Hello, peoples of the flat Earth!
Well done! about 6 hours (for this board)
120-240-360-480mA or etc with NSI constant Current Regulators (yes, it is not cheap)
from 18v to 25v
also you can give 12v if instead of 1 LED, you will set a jumper (wire)
also you can use led driver if you will set a jumper (wire) except CCR
12×99×1.6mm m3 holes
also you can cut up to 1.5+mm from the both sides
50%G (Grower)
G≈$

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maukka
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maukka wrote:
maukka wrote:
Anyone tested this one (2200-4000K smart bulb):
https://www.ikea.com/ch/en/p/tradfri-led-bulb-e27-806-lumen-wireless-dim...

For some reason Ikea doesn’t state CRI for that particular model.

Got a response from customer service. They say it’s CRI90. I’ll have to pick one up to test.

This bulb is now reviewed here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70158

fneuf
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Added to the table!

I took its best result (so 2700K): currently ranked #21 with a BLF Qfactor of 78 and a C- grade. Its clearly better than the previous Trådfri you reviewed earlier, but it is let down by its R9.

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maukka
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Do you just eyeball the R12 values? For the Ikea it was easy, but I could post the test results on pastebin in the future if that helps.

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Kinda, I "pixelball" those, counting pixels thanks to paint.net ruler laughing

If you have an easy way to give me the exact actual values of your R12 tests, pastebin could do, it sure will polish the table and perfect its targetted "scientifism". And it sure helps ! smile

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maukka
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Yeah, all the CRI R# values are listed there under #CRI Data. R12 on line 66.

Quote:
# 12 90,1
BlueSwordM
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Look what I found guys and gals, for about 15$US:
https://lumicrest.com/product/pro-series-high-cri-dimmable-led-gu10/

CRI95+ rated too.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

BlueSwordM
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Also something else that looks superb for Canadians:
https://www.bulbspro.com/led-lamps/household-a-shape.html?lamp_cri_range...

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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fneuf, in the OP wrote:
I’m no steampunk, I do not want to get back to incandescent bulbs nor do I want to consider halogen right now.

Aha, you failed to mention that you do not want kerosine light sources, so here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:

CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6

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djozz wrote:
… here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:

CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6

Curious, +0.0027 Duv. Would you call that green yellow?

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Wonderful, as I understand, yttirium derived mantles looked rather green. Thorium derived mantle lights improved the color removing some of the green. These lights are , nonetheless, adored by those that live near them—Berlin residents. Berlin still uses 30,000 gas mantle lights in its streets. Here are some sample pictures. The 9-11 mantle lights throw around quite a bit of light, rivaling some electrical lighting systems. The 4 mantle lights look good for residential, you don’t want to light up peoples’ homes like a baseball park.

As I also understand, the Coleman dual mantle lanterns also produce some 850 lumens of warm white light, even outperforming the BLF LT1!

djozz
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Barkuti wrote:

djozz wrote:
… here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:

CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6




Curious, +0.0027 Duv. Would you call that green yellow?


It does look rather yellow indeed, nothing of the rosiness that people here prefer. If this type of lighting ever takes off you can recognise BLF folks by a minus-green chimney Big Smile
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This might be of interest to some. Not the first time the 500W Yuji is tested though.

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If someone want LED with high cri without violet. For example, I am going to do lamp for nail extsntion
I will get more deteiled result tomorrow. I think it is almost CRI97. It is the same manufacturer what produce SOLs — SmartEcoLightning

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djozz wrote:
fneuf, in the OP wrote:
I'm no steampunk, I do not want to get back to incandescent bulbs nor do I want to consider halogen right now.
Aha, you failed to mention that you do not want kerosine light sources, so here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power: CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6 !{width:30%}https://i.imgur.com/e8d5Mfn.jpg! !{width:30%}https://i.imgur.com/VcLg8YJ.jpg! !{width:30%}https://i.imgur.com/lU414uZ.jpg! p=. !{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/zpCezkwr.jpg!

Ahah! Well done, kinda got me there.  Well, well, well what mention should I add to disqualify those solutions?

  • I do not want to become radioactive? 
  • I want lights to be able to run from sustainable energy sources?
  • "No Amish tech"?

laughing

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SunLike wrote:
If someone want LED with high cri without violet. For example, I am going to do lamp for nail extsntion I will get more deteiled result tomorrow. I think it is almost CRI97. It is the same manufacturer what produce SOLs — SmartEcoLightning !{width:49%}https://sun9-17.userapi.com/c855420/v855420053/178788/KUCyeqgIihc.jpg! !{width:49%}https://sun9-69.userapi.com/c855420/v855420053/178792/LS3_l2EsO-U.jpg!

Something that's bothering me since the start. I thought that SOL and SAW were both produced by SSC, but manufactured in different countries. But now I'm understanding that:

  • SAW are made by Seoul SemiConductor / Toshiba (Korea/Japan) : violet crystal tech
  • SOL are made by SmartEco Lighting (China) : blue & violet crystal tech

Is it right?

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Yes. SOL is from China. It is not TRI-R technologies

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And is there any relation between SSC and Smart Eco Lighting companies ?

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I do not know

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Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam's product offering.

PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?

Rise and Shine my precious...

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Bought a Lidl Livarno Lux LED E27 smart bulb. Strong do not buy from me.

-Warm white with a bad yellow tint (2700K, duv +0.0048)
-CRI Ra 83, R9 15, R12 71
-TM-30-18 Rf 88, Rg 94
-RGB modes emit an audible whine
-RGB modes have a very low output, no chance to make a mood lighting unless you buy 10 of these
-PWM is not visible on any mode
-Remote and smartphone bluetooth app work fine, but the colors on the remote don’t all really reflect what the output will be
-About 10x range in the dimming with fine steps
-Power draw 1.2-8.3W on white with a power factor of 0.48-0.59
-Power draw 0.9W on RGB with a power factor of 0.40-0.45
-Standby power is 0.5 watts


Joshk
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fneuf wrote:

Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam’s product offering.


PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?

This SOL/SAW thing is confusing. Tell me if this is right or not:

SAW = Original by “Seoul Semiconductor” (Sunlike product line) in Korea
SOL = Better/cheaper by “Smart Eco Lightning” in China

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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3d... has come in. Box was beat up, marked marswell and diy led u home.
The color seems very accurate, just looking by eye especially at my skin, unfortunately no proper testing gear. Since it’s bright, it doesn’t look painfully blue – as is usually the case with other low intensity low cri high cct bulbs. A couple halogen bulbs evens out the CCT nicely (can’t use LEDs in 3 of the main fixtures and landlord won’t do a thing about it).

The actual base is plastic with air holes at the bottom. The LED aluminum mounts are only partially enclosed just enough to protect the LEDs, so there is room for a lot of air flow. Despite my original hesitance, I think this can more or less handle the 40 watts, and might even run cooler than all the 1600 lumen mainstream bulbs that have died on me…

What really needs to be known and I don’t feel like testing: what’s inside for the driver? I doubt a made in china bulb will have long lasting 130C rated japanese caps sadly…
I will update with pics after it has been on for a few hours to test heat…from what I’ve seen so far the heat is coming from the upper part where LEDs are lined up rather than the driver.

I’m pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few more…it’s REALLY HUGE, though, it pokes out way above the diffuser on my lamp, and would require removal of typical household glass cones or covers.

EDIT: Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/e51uJQ1jXSRyC62N6

I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:

Fireflies E07 219B SW45

Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)

Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)

Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k

Klarus Mi7

 

Varmint removal (throw):

Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)

Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)

Lumintop ODL20C

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Dalamar wrote:

I'm pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few more...it's REALLY HUGE, …

You can say it! 

The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn't it?

Joshk
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Barkuti wrote:

The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn’t it?

25.4x
It’s in mm.

Dalamar
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Photos added to original post.

I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:

Fireflies E07 219B SW45

Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)

Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)

Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k

Klarus Mi7

 

Varmint removal (throw):

Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)

Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)

Lumintop ODL20C

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Joshk wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn't it?

25.4x

It's in mm.

Think that a second time Joshk, that bulb cannot measure 28.74mm wide, just the e27 base measures ∅27mm.

It is 2.874" wide and 9.252" long:

Dalamar wrote:

I'm pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few more...it's REALLY HUGE, though, it pokes out way above the diffuser on my lamp, and would require removal of typical household glass cones or covers.

EDIT: Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/e51uJQ1jXSRyC62N6

Innocent 

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fneuf wrote:

Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam's product offering.

PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?

thanks to Alexey Nadezhin for review (lamptest.ru) even without my logo =)

Today I am in Belarus (BelMORDOR), last 6 month was in Ukraine (UkrMORDOR). Now I have ukrain passports and can go to Europe to apply for political asylum. But I think that I am USSR citizen, even after death of CCCP

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