ASTROLUX MF01 Mini - common issues thread

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Skylight
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I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

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JasonWW wrote:
It’s easy to miss a new thread, so post a link here when it’s ready. Thumbs Up

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70329

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Thro
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Skylight wrote:
I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work

JasonWW
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Thro wrote:
Skylight wrote:
I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work


It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

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Skylight
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JasonWW wrote:
Thro wrote:
Skylight wrote:
I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work


It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

My MCPCB will arrive next week so I will test it as well.

Thank you, JasonWW. So with LH351Ds the optic will not focus properly? Or will it really kill the led?

In another thread someone wrote that Mateminco stated the XPL HI would need a few mm more room in the head. Is the difference really that big?

My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews

My 7th Old lumens contest build: Matainvoy ML18SBuilt video

My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2.0Nightwatch NI40 StalkerSofirn C8F 21700Brinyte WT01 ApolloSofirn SD05

My Youtube video-reviews: Brinyte WT01 Apollo, Sofirn SD05

JasonWW
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Skylight wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Thro wrote:
Skylight wrote:
I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work


It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

My MCPCB will arrive next week so I will test it as well.

Thank you, JasonWW. So with LH351Ds the optic will not focus properly? Or will it really kill the led?

In another thread someone wrote that Mateminco stated the XPL HI would need a few mm more room in the head. Is the difference really that big?


I don’t know the height of the LH351D, I was just saying you need to check that. I might be an issue. On the Rot66 the LEDs got crushed.

The height difference was a fraction of a millimeter. Very tiny.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Skylight
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Thanks, JasonWW. I will check this. I’ll have to be very careful with the leds!

My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews

My 7th Old lumens contest build: Matainvoy ML18SBuilt video

My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2.0Nightwatch NI40 StalkerSofirn C8F 21700Brinyte WT01 ApolloSofirn SD05

My Youtube video-reviews: Brinyte WT01 Apollo, Sofirn SD05

torchfanatic
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Hi guys

I received my MF01s recently and have a few questions if you are able to answer, apologies if they have already been answered!

1. Can you change the colour of the Aux lights like Emisar?
2. What battery gives the most output and perfomrnace? I’m using samsung 21700 40t at the moment
3. Im using the spacer provided but its making a rattling sound. Is that normal? I.e it’s not fitting as smooth as it should – contact between both spring and main light
4. Can this light be re flashed with new firmware like I did with my d4v2 which came with muggle mode issues! (same wire pogo pin)??

Thanks!!!

I like torches Smile

oweban
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1) nope, they’re fixed
2) 30T would give higher turn-on output, but it’ll ramp down super fast. 40T is a good one for it.
3) spacer isn’t long enough, I used paper to “fill” it:

4) not via pogos. Gotta remove driver to upgrade it. It’s….. not fun.

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Lol thanks man that is very helpful!

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JasonWW
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torchfanatic wrote:

1. Can you change the colour of the Aux lights like Emisar?
2. What battery gives the most output and performance? I’m using samsung 21700 40t at the moment

1. The colors on this light represent the battery charge, so it’s not just cosmetic. You can however adjust their brightness. The software has settings for 2 different brightness levels, plus each color led has trimers than can be adjusted. So if you don’t care much about the battery function and maybe don’t like the green leds you can simply turn the greens ones off.

2. 40T is a good cell. There is the Shockli 5500mah and its other brands (same PLB 5500mah cell) that is also a good choice. Max performance at the sacrifice of capacity, like a hot rod, is going to be a high drain cell, like 30T. I think most people don’t care about max output, they just want the best overall battery.

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Thanks Jason thats good to know!

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BOMBAY
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JasonWW wrote:
I’m trying to think of how the average Joe could fix their lights performance quick and cheap.

Maybe ditch the plastic piece and get some better screws that can transfer heat. Copper screws? That may not do much.

Maybe make a flat C shaped copper bar from some copper sheeting and thermal epoxy it on top of the 7135 chips?

Maybe cut a section of iron pipe that is 4mm thick and drop into place where the plastic and screws go. Then the battery tube will tighten against it?

None of these ideas are all that great, but they can be done without a cnc or milling machine. That’s what I’m trying to avoid.

Ah, the only good fix might be a machined piece, but I doubt they would be cheap to produce.

It would be nice if we could just turn off the thermal stepdown and use our hand to adjust the brightness if it gets too hot.

will removing the plastic cover and using longer copper battery adapters instead of the plastic ones probably be a bad idea?

KawiBoy1428
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Maybe something like this using copper sealing rings…I have made a few adapters/sinks for Linear drivers.. just sinking off the ground ring, as high as 12amps no problem…

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=metric+copper+washers&_pgn=2&_skc=50...

https://www.amazon.com/18mm-Metric-Shape-Copper-Washer/dp/B00W94J5IS/ref...

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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BOMBAY wrote:

will removing the plastic cover and using longer copper battery adapters instead of the plastic ones probably be a bad idea?

I dont know what a copper battery adapter is. Do you mean a sleeve to center a smaller battery diameter? It would not do anything other than add weight.

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hank
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You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper.
That would be bad.

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ok thanks i just thought it would be a bad idea

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hank wrote:
You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper.
That would be bad.

That’s exactly what everyone is doing. Can’t be that bad.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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hank wrote:
You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper. That would be bad.

Well, if you are worrried that you may short the battery positive to the body negative, the shape of the copper should prevent that in all standard battery formats, plus I am considering coating the exposed copper on battery side by insulation. Either liquid electrical tape or some epoxy, not sure which or if jet. I’ll do some measurements, tests and decide based on that. I may not do the coating if I deem it safe for my use. I am talking about the copper insert man of light is designing: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70329

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Or just kapton tape Smile

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Just got my copper-headed mini. Verified the premature thermal step down issue from non-turbo max. Setting temp and limits in software did nothing. However, after the initial step down, if I ramped it back to max, it stayed maxed longer before fading again. Repeating this caused it to stay maxed longer and longer. Anyone else experience this? It might be related to the earlier reported experience with semi-depleted batteries.

Since the temp increased throughout these cycles along with the max ramp duration, doesn’t this rule out thermal issues and suggest a voltage or other electrical sensor problem?

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my mt07 copper behaves identically (sst20 4000K). Probably the regulation works much more efficiently as the battery voltage decreases. I wonder if the same problem occurs in the xpl hi version

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eclecticepicurean wrote:
Anyone else experience this?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1592755#comment-1592755

Sorry for my poor english.

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I can’t believe so many solutions are focused on dissipating heat when this problem points toward an electrical sensor defect. What can we do to get relief from the manufacturer?

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eclecticepicurean wrote:
I can’t believe so many solutions are focused on dissipating heat when this problem points toward an electrical sensor defect. What can we do to get relief from the manufacturer?

The sensor is inside the MCU. I don’t think all Atmels fail 8n MF01 mini and work fine in other flashlights. You can replace the MCU and got the same effect. So heat sinking is the solution or you need to redesign and remake driver pcb.
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What other model shares all of the mini’s electrical components, but experiences no premature throttling?

What inadequate heat sinking theory explains DECREASED throttling during CONSECUTIVE max ramps, while temps INCREASE?

Recap: As the light gets hotter, it stays maxed longer … Maybe because the throttling is not heat-related.

If anyone has 2 batteries, with confirmed identical output, then they could test electrical throttling by heating the light with one battery through repeated max ramps, until it stays maxed significantly longer than the initial cycle. Next, swap that battery with the freshly charged one into the hot light and retest max ramping. If the light prematurely throttles with the fresh battery, then the experiment points to electrical throttling, not thermal?

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one solution can be also thermally bound the MCU to the head, so its more reading real temperature than the drivers temp

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Lexel wrote:
one solution can be also thermally bound the MCU to the head, so its more reading real temperature than the drivers temp

This could also be very well worth trying. But the AMCs will still e getting really hot, will it not influence them?

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Dr.Phillip wrote:
Lexel wrote:
One solution can be also thermally bound the MCU to the head, so its more reading real temperature than the drivers temp

This could also be very well worth trying. But the AMCs will still e getting really hot, will it not influence them?

the AMCs have also a thermal throttling, so they can’t get too hot, maybe that’s also a cause of the thermal problem

The copper/brass insert the forum member offers with technical drawings and CAD model available to me
and I sent it to Mateminco with the request to update the lights

I already talked with them in the design process about proper heat sinking which got ignored in final builds,
the light was sold pretty quick to counter Fireflies 7x LED light without proper prototype sent for test/review and improvements getting to production model

Dr.Phillip
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Lexel wrote:
Dr.Phillip wrote:
Lexel wrote:
One solution can be also thermally bound the MCU to the head, so its more reading real temperature than the drivers temp

This could also be very well worth trying. But the AMCs will still e getting really hot, will it not influence them?

the AMCs have also a thermal throttling, so they can’t get too hot, maybe that’s also a cause of the thermal problem

The copper/brass insert the forum member offers with technical drawings and CAD model available to me
and I sent it to Mateminco with the request to update the lights

I already talked with them in the design process about proper heat sinking which got ignored in final builds,
the light was sold pretty quick to counter Fireflies 7x LED light without proper prototype sent for test/review and improvements getting to production model

I kind of hate the fact they changed your design and replaced that mosfet, inductor and diode and messed up that voltage measurement. “Value engineering” is reaching new extremes in china, they replace components worth few cents for ones worth few cents less not caring what the consequences will be… They often manufacture so many thing at the bare minimum requirements for functionality. Sad thing is it prevents them from gaining “brand loyalty”, which could in the end earn them much more. I asked mateminco for how much they would sell me a spare driver (for experimenting, flashing etc) they told me 33.5$/piece. When I asked them what the wholesale price is for 15 flashlights, they also told me 33.5$/piece (i was considering buying 15 flashlights as business gifts to emplyees). They literaly sell driver board at the same price as full assembled flashlights. Not very modding comunity friendly…

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