Hey guys
I'm looking for a replacement tailcap for my Solarforce L2P. It has to be the new 2011 version, and it has to be a reverse clicky.
Thnx
PS: I'll be willing trade my L2P tailcap + cash for it.
Does anyone know of a good reverse clicky switch component I can put in my L2P tailcap? 5A rating would suffice.
Are these (http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451) reverse or forward clickies? I see they're rated at 1.5A at 250V, which means the switch will easily do 5A's on much lower Volts, right?
Did you check Lighthound.com? L2's interchange with L2P's. They have a lot of Solarforce accessories there.
The one on my L2 is reverse click. So L2 switch should work for you.
That puzzled me for a long time. Sounds logical isn't it? That type of thinking backfired at me more times than not. Thanks to Don who is always generous with safety advices (Don you're amazing). I've read that switches are rated by wattage mostly so your assumption may well be plausible. However when the voltage goes higher than specified (above 250V) there is the risk or arching through the switch contacts or somewhere else. So thats why the voltage limit. I have yet to kill one of these (a good deal and fits pretty much in most P60 host albait the cheapest 501/502, also good for C8, MRV or similar) by running occasionally more than 4,5A through. I have yet to have a switch die on me. XM-L's i do (i never like strock drivers in most budget offerings anyway) go from 2,8A upwards on those switches. I suspect those who fail do it for some mechanical reason rather than melting. However there were reports of failing switches with XM-L's from MF (the 1st budget XM-L offering craze over a year ago) which drew more than 3A on a fresh battery. I think no1 ever made a switch autopsy and found out how those eventually died.
On the other hand 60A on 4V don't sound very realistic at all. Same wattage it is "rated" for but just feels wrong (that said with minimal electrical background). 30A rated switches were very bulky. I suspect ti has something to do to the inital shock to the switch when the first part of the metal plates contact each other... if the contact starts light the switch gonna start melting before properly engaged allowing it that massive current through.
You have to check out Foy's Tailcapalooza Extravaganza Thread! It covers everything you ask and MORE! https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4421 
FoyknowsSolarforcewell!
On Edit: I am not sure why the link doesn't work, but it is listed as a sticky on the Forums » Other LED Lights » Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
Comparison Review: tailcapalooza - Solarforce switch extravaganza
Thanx for the comments Budgeteer. Are those switches you linked forward clicky's or reverse clicky's?
the link shows "page not found"
Sorry. I edited my original post, but the links still do not work. 
They are reverse, pretty much the ones you find in popular P60 hosts.
Thnx >> ordered 