[♛ FreemeGB] ASTROLUX FT03S SBT90.2 4500lm 1428m 26650/ 21700/ 18650 Flashlight

1147 posts / 0 new
Last post
JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

mgracia85 wrote:
California_Prepper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
It seems Banggood is already selling FT03 reflectors.

[US$12.12] DIY Spare Smooth Reflector Light Cup For Astrolux FT03 Flashlight Flashlight from Lights & Lighting

https://banggood.app.link/kw6YgbyNA3

This one looks different than both the ft03 and ft03s based on the pics posted recently

Well that’s gonna add to the confusion


Yes, research needs to be done.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Flashlight enth...
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 21:09
Posts: 39

Thanks for the helpful info. Will adding a bit of thermal paste help with the overall run time on turbo?

M4D M4X
M4D M4X's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2014 - 05:17
Posts: 8075
Location: Austria (GMT + 1)

JasonWW wrote:
mgracia85 wrote:
California_Prepper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
It seems Banggood is already selling FT03 reflectors. [US$12.12] DIY Spare Smooth Reflector Light Cup For Astrolux FT03 Flashlight Flashlight from Lights & Lighting https://banggood.app.link/kw6YgbyNA3
This one looks different than both the ft03 and ft03s based on the pics posted recently
Well that’s gonna add to the confusion
Yes, research needs to be done.

I wrote them that I need one asap to get comparable numbers

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

BIG THANKS for helping me by using my REFLinks

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 672
Location: United Kingdom

Doesn’t lifting the LED PCB and screwing it back without cleaning and reapplying the thermal paste create air bubbles?

BarefootCameraSam
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 09/10/2019 - 23:35
Posts: 36
Location: Washington
Th558 wrote:
Doesn’t lifting the LED PCB and screwing it back without cleaning and reapplying the thermal paste create air bubbles?

Yes.
Ideally you’d clean and re-paste properly. If you clamp it down from one side first, it should do a semi reasonable job of avoiding bubbles. Clamping straight down would be the worst, other than crazy stuff like no thermal paste or not clamping down well.

Phatster
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2013 - 19:22
Posts: 185
Location: Finland

Received mine just now. It had thermal paste. Lifted the PCB and checked this. Did not clean or add anything. Clamped it back down from other side first and then the other too. Heat transfers nicely to the body and no doughnut hole on mine. Stepdown from turbo seems to be a bit over 20 seconds though. Tried with a liitokala 26650 and a molicel 21700. With Molicel was visibly a bit brighter.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

Flashlight enthusiast wrote:
Thanks for the helpful info. Will adding a bit of thermal paste help with the overall run time on turbo?

No, thermal paste helps keep the led from overheating and dying.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas
BarefootCameraSam wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Doesn’t lifting the LED PCB and screwing it back without cleaning and reapplying the thermal paste create air bubbles?

Yes.
Ideally you’d clean and re-paste properly. If you clamp it down from one side first, it should do a semi reasonable job of avoiding bubbles. Clamping straight down would be the worst, other than crazy stuff like no thermal paste or not clamping down well.


I think it is a non-worry issue. Pressure from the reflector should create good metal to metal contact. I see no need to clean and reapply. Just having paste is good. LEDs are pretty robust. Computer CPU’s are not so robust.

PS, the screws are for anti-rotation, not clamping down. The reflector is what applies downward pressure.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 672
Location: United Kingdom

Just ran it for 8 mins at max ramp. External temp was 53°C (room 22.6°C). Internal was 61°C. There’s definitely some kinda issue with the driver cause on turbo I’m only getting 20 seconds it doesn’t even get warm.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

Th558 wrote:
Just ran it for 8 mins at max ramp. External temp was 53°C (room 22.6°C). Internal was 61°C. There’s definitely some kinda issue with the driver cause on turbo I’m only getting 20 seconds it doesn’t even get warm.

On the above 8 min test, what did you set the thermal limit to? Did it function like it should?

There are ways to trick the thermal settings to make the exterior get hotter if that’s what you want.

As far as Turbo, that generates a lot of heat quickly, so time plays a factor. There is always going to be a time lag between the inside of the light heating up to when than heat gets to the exterior. Toykeeper generally sets up Anduril to read the rate of heat increase so as to anticipate when it needs to start ramping down. I dont know if Astrolux asked her to do a Anduril build just for this light or if they just grabbed a version from a different light and flashed it to the FT03S.

Let’s hypothetically say they grabbed the Anduril build from the S43 (similar 3 channel design) and used that on the FT03S. That build was probably set up to reduce power sooner when the temp rise is fast due to the light being so small. It heats up quick.

So if they used that build for a bigger light, we might be seeing the software reacting too soon as far as reducing output.

The thermal stepdown software is never going to be all that accurate in the first place since it thermistor is built into the MCU. So we just have to accept this. Maybe in the future we will have remote temp probes we can put on the mcpcb or the body of the light.

I sent Toykeeper a PM to see what she knows about this lights Anduril build.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

We did just have a situation with the Astrolux MF01 mini where the temp sensor reduced output way too soon only when at the top of the ramp. On that driver the MCU was directly on the other side of the board from a 7135 chip. Top of the ramp activates these chips and they get pretty hot so the heat was transferring to the MCU. It was a small design flaw in the driver layout. To fix this a user machined a heatsink to soak up the heat from the 7135 chips.

In the FT03S, we are having a different issue, but maybe the FET is on the opposite side of the board as the MCU? I can’t find any driver pictures although I swore someone posted some.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 672
Location: United Kingdom

The thermal limit was set to 75 and it didn’t step down which is good cause it hadn’t reached that temp yet. Turbo steps down fast but if the batteries voltage a bit low so the output is under about 75% I can run if for about 4 minutes without any problems. Seems like it’s a similar problem to the MF01 mini. Hopefully there’s an easy way to fix it even if it involves but another part like with the MF01 mini.

BarefootCameraSam
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 09/10/2019 - 23:35
Posts: 36
Location: Washington

Would setting the ambient temp falsely to trick the light into thinking it’s colder work? Would this be risky for the led?

Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 672
Location: United Kingdom

Here’s a screenshot at 16:32 from ZozzV6’s video https://youtu.be/1nDyHIkmTCY

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

BarefootCameraSam wrote:
Would setting the ambient temp falsely to trick the light into thinking it’s colder work? Would this be risky for the led?

It’s easy to do this. To avoid risk, hold the light and turn off if it starts to get too hot. The led should be able to handle it.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

Th558 wrote:
Here’s a screenshot at 16:32 from ZozzV6’s video https://youtu.be/1nDyHIkmTCY


The FET and MCU are a good ways apart. For there to be a heat path from one to the other we would need to look at the electrical traces. Assuming there is a heat path from the FET which is causing the MCU to heat up prematurely, there might be a couple ways to reduce the effect.

Like with the MF01 mini, you could add extra mass to the FET. You could take a cube of copper and attach it to the FET with thermal adhesive. What it does is make the FET heat up at a slower rate. Adhesive will make it hard to remove the FET in the future if you ever need to, but it’s the only way I can think to keep it attached.

Another option might be to just swap in a FT03 driver. You can run NarsilM or adapt Anduril to it. I don’t think the FT03 has these step down issues. I kind of prefer NarsilM because you set the stepdown temp by turning on Turbo and then holding the light. When it feels hot enough, you click the button. Whatever that temp is gets memorized. Or you can use a timer or turn it off completely.

Another option might be to try a less powerful battery. The P42A is really strong and probably pulls a huge amount of amps. Switching to 50E or similar (30Q) might solve the problem. Have you tried a different cell? The high amperage might be pushing whatever FET they used to run hotter than it should. Backing off the amps a little (not enough to really notice) might make a big difference. This is what your seeing when the P42A is not fully charged. It pulls less amps.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Sidney Stratton
Sidney Stratton's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 01/28/2018 - 22:59
Posts: 237
Location: Canuckistan

@ Th558:

I was getting similar results, on turbo my light would drop from 5100 lm (at startup) to 2200 in 10 sec. Had set the thermal limit to 75ºC. Tested against other batteries (iJoy, Molicell, Efest and Sony VTC5A) and would still drop like a fly. Then it occured to me that I had placed a metal ring between the driver and retainer (to align the body tube flats). Thinking it was brass (had cleaned with fine sandpaper) only to realize it was electroplated aluminium with some clear coat.
Changed to a stainless ring and the numbers are back up. After some 2 minutes, 4200 lumens and head at 50ºC.

The led is drawing much amperage, any small resistance in the electrical path throttles the output. I’ve dedicated the iJoy 26650 / 4200mAh cell for this light as can handle the 20 to 25 amps for some 5 / 4 minutes (by HKJ’s tables).

Tighten the retaining ring and check if other contact points are clean.

Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 672
Location: United Kingdom

I can use a weaker cell but they rated the light at 500kcd which it can’t do and less output would mean even less throw. When the group buy was still in the interest collecting stage I messaged them and asked how long it would run for on turbo and was told it hadn’t been tested… Let’s make a high powered light, claim 500kcd and release it without testing it properly. Let’s also redesign the reflector and make it worse. Seems like a great idea. I understand that Mateminco is a value brand but how could they mess up that badly. My NI40 got scratched pretty easily and didnt have the best UI but at least it worked as advertised and hit the rated numbers whilst costing less. I don’t usually use turbo for long but when I do one day it’ll be annoying having a 20s stepdown. I really didn’t expecting this light to come with problems as it’s just an upgrade to an existing light. Anyway I hope they fix the problems with the newer batches and send out new reflectors for free or at least at a discounted price.

Edit: Just saw Sidney Stratton’s post. I’ll try this and see what happens. Hopefully it’ll fix the issue.

Flashlight enth...
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 21:09
Posts: 39

Sidney Stratton wrote:
@ Th558:

I was getting similar results, on turbo my light would drop from 5100 lm (at startup) to 2200 in 10 sec. Had set the thermal limit to 75ºC. Tested against other batteries (iJoy, Molicell, Efest and Sony VTC5A) and would still drop like a fly. Then it occured to me that I had placed a metal ring between the driver and retainer (to align the body tube flats). Thinking it was brass (had cleaned with fine sandpaper) only to realize it was electroplated aluminium with some clear coat.
Changed to a stainless ring and the numbers are back up. After some 2 minutes, 4200 lumens and head at 50ºC.

Do you have any pictures, or any additional way of explaining what you did for people that are new to modding? It sounds like you found a pretty straight forward improvement if I’m reading this right!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

Flashlight enthusiast wrote:
Sidney Stratton wrote:
@ Th558:

I was getting similar results, on turbo my light would drop from 5100 lm (at startup) to 2200 in 10 sec. Had set the thermal limit to 75ºC. Tested against other batteries (iJoy, Molicell, Efest and Sony VTC5A) and would still drop like a fly. Then it occured to me that I had placed a metal ring between the driver and retainer (to align the body tube flats). Thinking it was brass (had cleaned with fine sandpaper) only to realize it was electroplated aluminium with some clear coat.
Changed to a stainless ring and the numbers are back up. After some 2 minutes, 4200 lumens and head at 50ºC.

Do you have any pictures, or any additional way of explaining what you did for people that are new to modding? It sounds like you found a pretty straight forward improvement if I’m reading this right!


No, Sidney added something that hurt performance then changed it after realizing it. Now performance is back to stock, so no actual improvement.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

HONDARIDER
HONDARIDER's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 10 hours ago
Joined: 04/22/2018 - 11:45
Posts: 933
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas

I have all the FT03’s, not all tints but I couldn’t bring myself to buy this one for $90. I did get an NI40 from Neal. Probably should have got this one for the all around better light. Really not sure why I didn’t jump on this. Maybe it’s the $60 difference for this particular LED. Guess you all are happy with this version? Maybe It will be cheaper at a later date. Maybe.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

HONDARIDER wrote:
I have all the FT03’s, not all tints but I couldn’t bring myself to buy this one for $90. I did get an NI40 from Neal. Probably should have got this one for the all around better light. Really not sure why I didn’t jump on this. Maybe it’s the $60 difference for this particular LED. Guess you all are happy with this version? Maybe It will be cheaper at a later date. Maybe.

No. You must not have read the last several pages.

This version of the light received some bad reflectors not capable of focusing the beam properly. The throw numbers are way less than advertised. Even with good reflectors from the FT03 swapped in it’s still a bit short of throw.

1400 meters is way more than the other versions. The SST-40 is about 900 meters. So 500 more meters is a really big jump. I think they estimated what is should be instead of actually measuring it.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Sidney Stratton
Sidney Stratton's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 01/28/2018 - 22:59
Posts: 237
Location: Canuckistan
Th558 wrote:
I can use a weaker cell but they rated the light at 500kcd which it can’t do ..//.. don’t usually use turbo for long but when I do one day it’ll be annoying having a 20s stepdown. I really didn’t expecting this light to come with problems as it’s just an upgrade to an existing light. Anyway I hope they fix the problems with the newer batches and send out new reflectors for free or at least at a discounted price.

I can feel your disappointment.
I had some problems with this unit also. When I took it out for a test run I had no mode memory. Then the turbo wouldn’t hold up. I was somewhat deceived as I had purposely set my order to be in the second batch – bugs and kinks are too often present in the first run. But with the overall picture of a great thrower and equally good UI, I dug in and found my mistakes. This version of Anduril has user selectable mode memory deactivation / activation. The ring I had placed as a shim between the driver and the retaining ring had some kind of brass like anodization or varnish. That limited the conductivity.
I had noticed the led’s phosphor reflection not completely filling the reflector but it wasn’t till ZozzV6’s post (#863) that pointed to an improper parabolic shape. Will see if a FT03 reflector will be available after CNY.
As for the green tint, yes it is visually striking at the lower outputs. This being a thrower, I set it to stepped from 1200 lm at lowest which gives a much better hue. I can’t see myself using this light for a night walk or searching for things in the house. It is for the great outdoors. BTW have set at two levels, high at 3000 lm plus the turbo, ~ 4500 lm sustained 5 minutes.

Overall, I’m quite pleased with the “overpriced” light. It does throw well to 200 m, above that my eyesight can’t detect well enough. The 5700ºK is a good temperature outside in my urban setting. The build and form factor are ergonomic.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

Toykeeper got back to me and said she was not consulted to do a version of Anduril specific for this light. So the thermal response code may not be optimal. Mateminco probably just used an Anduril build from another light and adapted it to this one. This means the thermal code might be reacting too quickly on Turbo or the FET might be transferring heat directly to the MCU.

We are back where we started. Flat Stare

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 2430
Location: Sweden

for the price.. just too many issues etc.. bleh :/ too me a rushed light asking premium money but failing to deliver..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

mortuus wrote:
for the price.. just too many issues etc.. bleh :/ too me a rushed light asking premium money but failing to deliver..

Not every product is a runaway hit.

I wonder if a FT03 can be bought, then buy a SBT-90.2 and a MT-G2 mcpcb to put it on. You’d have to enlarge the centering ring, but in the end you’d get a perfect light. Good reflector, good driver, maybe even a cheaper cost if you don’t count your labor. One downside is this led is not easy to find at the moment.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Flashlight enth...
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 01/04/2019 - 21:09
Posts: 39

Is there anything that can be done (like a relatively simple fix) to increase the turbo runtime on this light?

M4D M4X
M4D M4X's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2014 - 05:17
Posts: 8075
Location: Austria (GMT + 1)

Flashlight enthusiast wrote:
Is there anything that can be done (like a relatively simple fix) to increase the turbo runtime on this light?


just keep it cool Wink

i compared the FT03 and FT03S here:

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

BIG THANKS for helping me by using my REFLinks

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas
Flashlight enthusiast wrote:
Is there anything that can be done (like a relatively simple fix) to increase the turbo runtime on this light?

We haven’t really figured out why it’s stepping down prematurely. If the FET is responsible for heating the MCU, you could add extra mass to the FET. You take a cube of copper and attach it to the FET with thermal adhesive. What it does is make the FET heat up at a slower rate. This theoretically would make it step down when it’s supposed to.

Someone needs to test it, though.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12307
Location: Houston Texas

M4D M4X wrote:
just keep it cool

Does your FT03S step down after 20 seconds using a high drain battery even though the exterior isn’t very hot?

I still don’t know if this is a widespread problem or not.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Pages