Drop.com $20 off - Lumintop Copper/Brass Tool for $10 - Discount not available as of 12/10/19

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jon_slider
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ThirdHandChain wrote:
The only catch is I have to get the nichia, which is fine with me.

YAY!
the Nichia is the smart choice… lol Smile
I hope you enjoy it!

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

LTC
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Anyone got their Brass version shipped?

Mentioned tentative ship date on 10th Feb…

But looking at the current situation, definitely there will be delay I guess.

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LTC wrote:
Anyone got their Brass version shipped?

Mentioned tentative ship date on 10th Feb…

But looking at the current situation, definitely there will be delay I guess.

Why. My blue Ti AAA light was shipped from the US.

Unless yours first has to be shipped in a very big box from China to the US.
Then put in a bubblewrap envelope and addressed to you.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

LTC
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Henk4U2 wrote:
LTC wrote:
Anyone got their Brass version shipped?

Mentioned tentative ship date on 10th Feb…

But looking at the current situation, definitely there will be delay I guess.

Why. My blue Ti AAA light was shipped from the US. So …

As mentioned, the Brass shipping date suppose to be 10th Feb while the Ti was 15th Jan iirc. So, no issue for the Ti.

Not sure the Brass will be shipping from US or China.

Just checking if anyone ordered the Brass and received info that it was shipped as mine is NOT.

forsh
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is anything avalible

everything ive check is request

https://www.facebook.com/groups/163189738353433/?ref=share
Join my Facebook FW3/4/1 selling and buying group guys

cyclops
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forsh wrote:
is anything avalible

everything ive check is request

The aluminum is out of stock, rest are available. Their inventory keeps on changing. I have updated the OP with the stock status as of today.

jon_slider
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forsh wrote:
is anything available

yes, I searched aaa, here is the result of the items that are listed as ACTIVE (available)

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Unheard
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The brass Drop Tool AAA will ship on 03/06.

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
ThirdHandChain wrote:
The only catch is I have to get the nichia, which is fine with me.

YAY!
the Nichia is the smart choice… lol Smile
I hope you enjoy it!
Tint is excellent. Output is anemic, though. Less than I was expecting on an Eneloop. This is really more like a close-quarters task light than an EDC, IMHO. I thought maybe it was the emitter, but my copper and titanium versions produce just about the same output. Kind of wishing I’d gotten the titanium in CREE.
jon_slider
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aaa lights are just task lights.. I edc them to read labels and to see things in a dark closet, but I dont use them to illuminate the sidewalk outdoors.. I use 16340 lights for that role.

I only use AAA indoors and at close range. I find the medium mode of 20 lumens sufficient.

I dont use the maximum mode on any of my lights, I rely on Medium, and Low

when I want more lumens, and for outdoors, I step up to my RRT-01 loaded with 16340 or 18350. I still dont use maximum, as I seldom need more than 100 lumens

I have one of the XP-G3 Copper Tools. If you want to trade for one of the Nichia Cu Tools.. PM me.

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
aaa lights are just task lights.. I edc them to read labels and to see things in a dark closet, but I dont use them to illuminate the sidewalk outdoors.. I use 16340 lights for that role.

I only use AAA indoors and at close range. I find the medium mode of 20 lumens sufficient.

I’m not suggesting an EDC be a 1k thrower. But I have a couple AAA and smaller lights I use, with the Jetbeam Jet-U being the most carried. It’s more than twice as bright as my Lumintop Tool AAA, that seems like 80 lumens. Then there’s the Aurora A8 with proprietary 130mAh battery, Nichia 219C putting out 350 lumens. My Lumintop Geek also puts out 350 lumens from a CREE XP-L HD powered by a small 530mAh battery.
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Been squirreling around, going nuts trying to find the hidden strobe mode on the Drop
Cu Tool. 6-quick clicks in rapid succession from off?

Takes a fool (not) to turn on his Tool.

TIA.

jon_slider
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xevious wrote:
Jetbeam Jet-U being the most carried. It’s more than twice as bright as my Lumintop Tool AAA, that seems like 80 lumens.

Geek and Aurora use LiPo, so it makes sense they are brighter than Eneloop.

It also makes sense that your Low CRI JetU is brighter than your High CRI Tool

High CRI makes less lumens, but more Red CRI (R9), and more Average CRI (Ra)

on my meter
My Cu Tool modded to High CRI sw45k makes 65 pink tinted lumens on an aaa Eneloop. Red things look Red

My RRT-01 w sw45k and 18350 LiIon reaches 400 lumens max. 6x brighter than aaa eneloop.

My Cu Tool w Low CRI 6000k xpg3 makes 120 green tinted lumens max on an aaa Eneloop. Red things look Brown

my Jet U modded to High CRI 6500k Optisolis makes 67 green tinted lumens max on an aaa Eneloop. Red things look Red

here is a simple intro to the topic of Red CRI (R9)
https://insights.regencylighting.com/what-is-r9-color-rendering-value

Starkm32 wrote:
trying to find the hidden strobe

not gonna happen
aaa Tools do not have strobe

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

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Well, color me strobed! Chasing my tail made me think otherwise.

Back to my EDC18

wle
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the “Drop” AAA light UI is actually pretty useable.

i hated it at first but really it isn;t bad.

usually [if it has been off more than about 10 sec] it starts on L.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], it goes to M.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], goes to H.
press again, off.

so if you press fast, it is L/off/M/off/H/off

it works a LOT better than it looks

plus the switch is very good, short travel, nice click, fast action

wle

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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that's pretty horrible.

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

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Boaz wrote:

that’s pretty horrible.


It does sound that way but it’s really not bad at all.
The switch takes very little effort to operate with a very short travel.
To switch modes its no different than a UI were you have to double tap for turbo.
Tap for on and tap, tap to change modes, tap for off. Simple UI and tap, tap is easy to get.
The switch is a short stroke momentary, very little effort and travel that seperates it from other lights.
Dont knock it until you try it Wink .
Tendou
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Is the nicchia version really not that bright compared to the cree version?

jon_slider
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Tendou wrote:
Is the nicchia version really not that bright compared to the cree version?

true
Low CRI produces low quality spectrum (specifically unable to correctly show red properly), high quantity

High CRI produces High quality, lower quantity

brightness is not the most important thing, to me
As a beginner, I spent time looking at brightness specs, as a starting point

as I became a more experienced flashoholic, I started to realize quality is more important than quantity, to me

I do not use maximum on my AAA lights.. so maximum is not important to me

I do use my AAA lights to look at things with red content, food, skin, flowers, clothing, art… so for me cree Color Rendering, is unacceptably disappointing, by comparison to Nichia

here is an example of a typical Cree LED Red output, compared to a Nichia
focus your attention on the Red bar

the LED on the left is much brighter.. but so what?
If it cannot show me Red things properly, I am not happy

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

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jon_slider wrote:
Tendou wrote:
Is the nicchia version really not that bright compared to the cree version?

true
Low CRI produces low quality spectrum (specifically unable to correctly show red properly), high quantity

High CRI produces High quality, lower quantity

brightness is not the most important thing, to me
As a beginner, I spent time looking at brightness specs, as a starting point

as I became a more experienced flashoholic, I started to realize quality is more important than quantity, to me

I do not use maximum on my AAA lights.. so maximum is not important to me

I do use my AAA lights to look at things with red content, food, skin, flowers, clothing, art… so for me cree Color Rendering, is unacceptably disappointing, by comparison to Nichia

here is an example of a typical Cree LED Red output, compared to a Nichia
focus your attention on the Red bar

the LED on the left is much brighter.. but so what?
If it cannot show me Red things properly, I am not happy

I’m just wandering if it’s really unusable in certain emergency situation, like when you have to find your way in darkness when you’re not carrying other lights.

And I know that you don’t like pwm, tgis light dont have pwm right?

wle
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moderator007 wrote:
Boaz wrote:

that’s pretty horrible.

It does sound that way but it’s really not bad at all. The switch takes very little effort to operate with a very short travel. To switch modes its no different than a UI were you have to double tap for turbo. Tap for on and tap, tap to change modes, tap for off. Simple UI and tap, tap is easy to get. The switch is a short stroke momentary, very little effort and travel that seperates it from other lights. Dont knock it until you try it Wink .

exactly
i just bought this light because it was very cheap

but now it is my 2nd choice EDC
just because it is tiny, it works, and i actually enjoy the UI

and i am an andruil fan
it is nothing like that
but it is still good

and simple

i use it mostly at night inside the house when i do not need a lot of light
but also appreciate the smaller size than my #1 EDC – FW3A – 1×18650 cell

wle

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xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
brightness is not the most important thing, to me
As a beginner, I spent time looking at brightness specs, as a starting point

as I became a more experienced flashaholic, I started to realize quality is more important than quantity, to me

I do not use maximum on my AAA lights.. so maximum is not important to me

Likewise. It was only a few years ago that I dropped concern for maximum output & focused more on beam quality (smoothness, flood, throw, and tint) and UI.

Three main strikes against “highest” relative output:
1. Something like a 30% difference is not very noticeable.
2. Small EDC lights are not “search” lights—so they don’t need to have massive output.
3. Most flashlight use is not on highest mode, and most flashlights step down shortly anyway.

If you need a flashlight for high priority searches in very dark zones, a massive flooder/thrower is ideal. Color rendering and ease of pocket carry won’t be important. My feeling is, if you want a tremendous thrower, go for a light dedicated for that purpose so a high mode can be sustained much longer.

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wle wrote:
the “Drop” AAA light UI is actually pretty useable.

i hated it at first but really it isn;t bad.

usually [if it has been off more than about 10 sec] it starts on L.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], it goes to M.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], goes to H.
press again, off.

so if you press fast, it is L/off/M/off/H/off

it works a LOT better than it looks

plus the switch is very good, short travel, nice click, fast action

On my AAA Tool, I have to wait at least 3 seconds to go back to “L”.

I’m a little disappointed in the output of the AAA Tool w/Nichia. IMHO, it’s quite low for what you get. Also wish there was a physical lockout, but at least the switch is nicely inset. The Jetbeam Jet-U seems to have double the output, while also being shorter & will deep pocket carry. It has a Cree XP-G2, which is on the cool side of neutral, but it’s not a bad beam. Serves it’s purpose for just quick use. I like the fact that it’s a twisty, so it’s totally locked out. I don’t employ it for longer tasks. But I’m going to try EDC’ing the AAA Tool again.

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i don;t have to ‘wait to get back to low’ – i just press it a few times and it is less than a second

i mean i see what you mean, if it;s on medium or high, and you want it come back on low, without pressing buttons, yes it takes 3-4 sec to reset

but i never run into that, i didn;t even know it, i like it the way it is

it puzzled me at first, the ui but when i read the manual it was like ‘‘oh this is actually good’‘

the jet u would drive me nuts, memory mode – hate that, H-M-L- hate that, twisty – hate that

also even though it is a twisty it seems to be the same length, 2.77 in

wle

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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argolite
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xevious wrote:
I’m a little disappointed in the output of the AAA Tool w/Nichia. IMHO, it’s quite low for what you get. Also wish there was a physical lockout.

Have you tried unscrewing the head a 1/4 turn for lockout?
xevious
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wle wrote:
i don;t have to ‘wait to get back to low’ – i just press it a few times and it is less than a second

i mean i see what you mean, if it;s on medium or high, and you want it come back on low, without pressing buttons, yes it takes 3-4 sec to reset

but i never run into that, i didn;t even know it, i like it the way it is

it puzzled me at first, the ui but when i read the manual it was like ‘‘oh this is actually good’‘

the jet u would drive me nuts, memory mode – hate that, H-M-L- hate that, twisty – hate that

also even though it is a twisty it seems to be the same length, 2.77 in

wle

The major gripe I had with this light is how unbearably long it takes to start fully working after inserting a battery for the first time. It took mine something like 20 minutes, until it would do more than low mode! That is just bizarre. I’m expecting that won’t happen again, unless stowed away without a battery for a long time.

The version I have is L-M-H. I find the mode memory useful. Sometimes I want high to come on, if I’d used it last. I appreciate both twisty & switch. When you get the hang of it, you can easily operate a twisty single handed. The simplicity is nice (no switch to worry about going wrong, or accidental activation). It is shorter. I can see it, side-by-side, about 3~4mm. But it’s also more narrow. Really hides away nicely in the pocket corner, because of the deep carry & diameter.

argolite wrote:
Have you tried unscrewing the head a 1/4 turn for lockout?
Hah. I didn’t know that—thanks. Beer Seems it’s not a complete lockout, as the switch still has power. If you lockout the head, press the switch, then tighten the head, it comes on. But at least it’ll prevent LED activation.
moderator007
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xevious wrote:
If you lockout the head, press the switch, then tighten the head, it comes on. But at least it’ll prevent LED activation.

If the switch is on then the SuperCap is holding the FET gate open no matter if the light is on or off, which is draining the SuperCap.
Left on for long periods of time could completly drain the SuperCap. Then you’ll need to charge it for a few minutes again before it will work.
Just a tip, encase you screw the head back in and the light doesn’t come on, it’s not broken, it just needs charged again. Wink
jon_slider
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xevious wrote:
mode memory useful

you do not seem to appreciate your Cu eTool

you consider the output too low,
are worried about accidental activation,
are exploring lockout,
and you dont like the eSwitch for not working immediately when the light has been kept without a battery in it..

sounds like you would be happier with a twisty, and you like memory.. so the JetU is a logical choice…

I will be happy to adopt your Cu eTool w 219c, if you decide to part with it, please PM me.

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Unheard
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The copper tool has sw45k D200 219B, the brass tool a Samsung LH351D at 2700K. The SST-20@2700 I used in C01S is more rosy and closer to a classic bulb, but the Samsung doesn’t look bad at all.

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:
mode memory useful

you do not seem to appreciate your Cu eTool

you consider the output too low,
are worried about accidental activation,
are exploring lockout,
and you dont like the eSwitch for not working immediately when the light has been kept without a battery in it..

sounds like you would be happier with a twisty, and you like memory.. so the JetU is a logical choice…

I will be happy to adopt your Cu eTool w 219c, if you decide to part with it, please PM me.

No problem Jon, I’m just airing some grievances about it. I like the Tool Cu 219C very much for its form factor, knurling, beam pattern, and tint. I have learned from a reply that the Tool can be locked out, which is good. I would prefer the max output to be brighter, but it’s not a real deal breaker. The mid and low are excellent. The eSwitch is annoying for its long capacitor charge time, but thankfully one only experiences it by not keeping a battery inside it for a long period. Overall, it’s an excellent light-cary EDC & task light. Big Smile

EDIT: Well, I’ve been EDC’ing the Lumintop Tool A(3) Cu for a few days now. I have to say, I’m liking it now that I know about the head lock-out (tail wasn’t doing it). Because I’d had activation mistakes that drained the battery down, the slight twist of the head “saves” the light for me. I wouldn’t be able to EDC it otherwise. The tint… is so nice. Cool

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