Drop.com $20 off - Lumintop Copper/Brass Tool for $10 - Discount not available as of 12/10/19

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argolite
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kat wrote:
if it’s a supercap then it should charge in seconds, not minutes

Charge time will depend on how much current is provided. The current could be quite low if the supercapacitor is in series with a large resistor (e.g., R3 and the BAT in the patent schematic).
WalkIntoTheLight
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kat wrote:
if it’s a supercap then it should charge in seconds, not minutes

Yup.

Quote:
either that or the supercap lost it’s charge. so that means that thiswill just drain the battery all the time. probably not a good idea to make switches like this

Yup. A supercap is certainly not low self-discharge. It will continue to drain the battery as it continuously needs to be topped up with charge. You have maybe a month of shelf-life before your battery is drained by the supercap.

Quote:
and something doesn’t make sense.

Yup. This stupid flashlight design.

Everyone else seems to be able to design lights with switches that can run off the main battery, and don’t need to be charged for an hour before you use it.

I still think the units must be faulty. I’m having a really difficult time believing anyone would design such a ridiculous switch.

argolite
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Yup. A supercap is certainly not low self-discharge. It will continue to drain the battery as it continuously needs to be topped up with charge. You have maybe a month of shelf-life before your battery is drained by the supercap.
I'm not sure your speculation matches what others have experienced with these switches that seem to have been used for over 4 years. Here's a comment in the other thread

ReyLight wrote:
Just called Lumintop boss to double confirm, it is a cap, not a battery. It drains minimal current,which can't even be measured.

I'd like to know the parasitic drain of the switch assembly, but like I said, my (crude) multimeter measures nothing.

Note if parasitic drain is an issue and I need to leave the light sit for a month, it's easy to lock out by loosening the head 1/4 turn.

jon_slider
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argolite wrote:
… these switches that seem to have been used for over 4 years. Here’s a comment in the other thread

ReyLight wrote:
Just called Lumintop boss to double confirm, it is a cap, not a battery. It drains minimal current,which can’t even be measured.
I’d like to know the parasitic drain of the switch assembly, but like I said, my (crude) multimeter measures nothing.

Thanks! you said what I was thinking.

In actual use I have not had any problem with my eSwitch Tool
it is a Brilliant Design!

tailstands, silent, simple
KISS

for those who do not know the history…
the Lumintop TiTool was the first eSwitch Tool,
here is maukka’s excellent review
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47011

maukka wrote:
The Ti’s electronic switch is flush to the tailcap and very quiet. Straight from the factory, its microcapacitor is empty and the high mode doesn’t work. After a day or so with a battery inside, it is charged.

Copper body with the titanium tailcap is my favorite to edc

Then my friend Coppet made his own by transplanting a TiTool eSwitch into a CuTool:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52749

Coppet wrote:

Then Massdrop ordered copper ones, and sold thousands of them. I have one, it works great.

I ordered another one.

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

buck91
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I’ve had the same amaloop nimh aaa in my ti tool for well over 6 months and it still works fine. Parasitic draw mustn’t be too extreme.

LightObsession
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What I like most about the eswitch on these Tools, is that it seems like it would be nearly impossible to have them come on in your pocket at any level other than low, which means that you’d have a long time to discover it before the battery could be drained to an extreme degree.

I think that the UI is a bit awkward, but it’s very good for assuring only low mode turn-ons in the pocket. Any accidental turn-ons seem pretty unlikely with these switches, anyway, since they’re not proud of the tail cap.

ValuseekeR
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It is what it is I guess, but mine has been sitting in Hebron (roughly 10-15 minutes from my house) for several days with no update…

moderator007
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argolite wrote:
Here’s the abstract from Lumintop’s Energy storage type zero-power flashlight electronic switching circuit Chinese patent application:
Quote:
The utility model discloses an energy storage type zero -power flashlight electronic switching circuit, manage Q1, resistance R1 and electric capacity C1 including chip U1, battery U2, diode D1, MOS, 3 difference linked switch K1 of chip U1 pin, resistance R1 and electric capacity C1, chip U1 pin 6 and MOS pipe Q1’s the G utmost point is connected respectively to the resistance R1 other end, MOS pipe Q1’s D extremely distinguishes connecting resistance R3 and output B1, it is anodal that diode D1 is connected to the resistance R3 other end, chip U1 pin 5 is connected respectively to diode D1 negative pole, anodal and the diode D2 negative pole of battery U2, MOS pipe Q1’s the S utmost point is connected respectively to diode D2 positive pole, battery U2 negative pole, electric capacity C2, the output B2 and the electric capacity C1 other end. The utility model discloses a MOS control oil pipe heavy current, light in weight more small than ordinary mechanical switch, it is littleer than ordinary electronic switching circuit consumption, can reduce the standby electric current and adopt continuous electric energy storage type form for zero, these article, so do not worry live time and life.


See paragraphs [0011] to [0014] if you understand electronics and can get past the machine translation.

EDIT: added pic from T18 in the other thread. Note there’s one more component on the other side of the board (the MOS?) that matches what I can see at the base of the spring on my MassDrop light.


I dont think this is the exact circuit for the tool. Notice the schematic has 2 diodes D1, D2 the tool has 1 and the schematic has 3 resistors and the tool only has two.
The tool probably is real similar but maybe with a updated IC that doesn’t require as many extrernal components. As you stated R3 should be the current limiting resistor for charging the SC. In the GFS16 it also has a current limiting resistor for charging. I set mine at 100 ohms and it takes about 45 seconds to charge up enough to start turning on the fet. I don’t know what value resistor the tool uses but it could probably be lowered slightly to improve the time it takes to charge.
.
I’m not sure what all the fuss is about with the switch charging times, mine works from shipped state in about a minute of the battery being inserted.
Once the SC is charged its good to go. To me its the whole reason this light is so appealing to me. Its a cool innovative design with low resistance switch with almost no parasitic drain that very few lights offer. I dont know exactly how much it does draws once charged if any. The reason it has almost no parasitic drain is that nothing is using any energy while it’s waiting for user input from the switch. Its idle with the SC charged. Then once you hit the switch the SC supply’s the circuit enough to turn on.
No mcu using power waiting for user input from one ground pin to turn on and run the code. The tool switch is a very effecient cool design in my opinion. It even has a Super Capacitor, what could be cooler than that. Big Smile
cyclops
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Yeah. Somehow this is being blown out of proportion. Even mine took maybe a few minutes to work normal. Even if it takes hours for the first time, I personally don’t see that as an issue.

korkfoto
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The Massdrop Vega (Lumintop Tool AA) is available for preorder - 30$.

FIAT LUX!

candor
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Is an emitter swap simple and straight forward? Mine came as Cree instead of Nichia. I haven’t opened it yet.
If the emitter is an easy swap I’ll keep it. If not, I’d rather gift it without opening it.

jon_slider
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candor wrote:
Is an emitter swap simple and straight forward?

Go for it and let us know Smile

I have not tried, but Ive had several modded for me by others

here is an sw45k in a Maratac head, on the eSwitch Tool body

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

cyclops
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korkfoto wrote:

The Massdrop Vega (Lumintop Tool AA) is available for preorder – 30$.

Thanks! This looks interesting. I will add the link to OP for reference.

moderator007
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candor wrote:
Is an emitter swap simple and straight forward? Mine came as Cree instead of Nichia. I haven’t opened it yet.
If the emitter is an easy swap I’ll keep it. If not, I’d rather gift it without opening it.

Its pretty easy if you can reflow another 3535 emitter on. No glue used, just unscrew the pill, pull the led protector out and unsolder the positive and negative wire to the mcpcb. Pull the mcpcb out, unsolder the led off the mcpcb, reflow emitter of your choosing back on. Place it back it the pill with a little thermal compound sandwiched in between and solder the wires back, add the led protector back. Screw the pill back in and your done. Its one of the easiest lights I have done.
I think I remember one model using a aluminum mcpcb maybe one had a copper mcpcb (not sure). Copper is really not needed in such a low current light.
candor
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Awesome. Thanks! Thumbs Up Seems simple enough—I’ll give it a go.

jon_slider
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still waiting for my CuTool

took 6 days to reach USA
spent 10 days in Illinois
and is now in Texas, just one state away from me

so far it has taken 17 days in shipping, and I dont have the light yet…

possibly the worst delay in a drop purchase I have experienced.. thanks to them using DHL

but, soon enough it will come

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

WalkIntoTheLight
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Weird. The few times I’ve used DHL from China, it has taken about 2 or 3 days to get to me in Canada. But it’s costly.

jon_slider
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Weird.

normal for me
DHL received a package for me in Germany on Nov 19.. tracking says it is still there.. thats 18 days with no sign of the package reaching USA yet..

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

wraithpc
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DHL Express, and DHL Ecommerce are two very different shipping methods. Not 100% that Ecommerce is correct name, but whatever it is called it is the economy side of DHL. And in all cases I’ve had it used for shipping it is way slower then Epacket. Seems to get in the US fairly quickly, then in my experience takes weeks bouncing around multiple states before it is finally delivered.

Slowest shipping I’ve experienced thus far.

It also seems like DHL Express has taken a big hit on speed lately. About six months ago they were 2-4 days to me from China, now they are barely faster then Epacket which typically is 7-10 days for my local. DHL Express starts at about $15.00 added to cost of item. The biggest benefit in DHL Express is accurate/quickly updated tracking so for more expensive packages worth it to me.

Both Ecommerce and Express DHL all the delays seem to be once it hits the US.

korkfoto
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Following the trackin number I discovered the next message: "04.12.2019 10:16:01 [China Post]
[Guangzhou International] Return, Remarks: *Returned by security check*".

Shocked Facepalm

I asked the Drop's customer service and they asked me if I want a replacement. I said "of course, but this time, send the correct (Cree) version."

I am waiting for an answer/sign from them.

 

FIAT LUX!

wle
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mine took about 2 weeks

wle

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korkfoto
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The Drop's CS told me that they shipped it again.Will see if a tracking number pops up.

 

FIAT LUX!

raccoon city
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The Nextool Flagship 16-in-1 Pro Multi-Tool is $30 on Drop.com, and has been for a while.

If the $20 off promotion works on this item, the total will be $10.

https://drop.com/buy/nextool-flagship-16-in-1-pro-multi-tool

 

Thread on the Nextool:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67616

 

I don't know if the Nextool on Drop.com has locking blades, however.

moderator007
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Just to update the resistor mod for changing low and med resistors. Changing them around on the Lumintop aaa tool, (not Drop aaa tool) does not work. You will end up with low,low, and high. This is for the Lumintop version that has med, low, high in that order. I think the reason is that in med the current runs just thru the med resistor (1 ohm) so changing it to a higher resistance (10 ohm or higher) gives you a low in the first mod. But when you click on off for the next mode which is original low mode, now the current switches to run thru original low resistor first which is in series with the med resistor to the led. Now the current is running thru both resistors and is low also. I havent probed around with the circuit actually running but in my lumen tube both modes (med and low) produce about the same lumens with the resistors switched around. I think this could probably be fixed by cutting the traces to the fet’s gate and rearranging them. I havent tested that yet but when the mode contoller or mcu (not sure which it is) says turn on med first instead it turns on low fet and when it cycles to next mode it says turn on low fet and it would turn on med fet. No resistors would have to be changed. Its just a matter of fouling the controller in which fet to turn on. If anyone happens to try this please post up your findings. This will probably not be easy to do since its so tiny, so try at your own risk.
.
Please note this is for the original Lumintop AAA tool not the Drop tool being discussed in this thread. They are the same except mode order. Changing the low resistor to a higher value still gives you a lower low in either version of the tool.

buck91
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My Nichia order finally arrived yesterday and guess what… Cree XPG3. Too bad. Replied to the Drop CS email and they claim to have Nichia units available to swap mine with. I“ll ship it back (by pre-paid label) Monday and in another 4-6wks we will see if they were telling the truth!

cyclops
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buck91 wrote:
My Nichia order finally arrived yesterday and guess what… Cree XPG3. Too bad. Replied to the Drop CS email and they claim to have Nichia units available to swap mine with. I“ll ship it back (by pre-paid label) Monday and in another 4-6wks we will see if they were telling the truth!

I think the swapped nichia will be shipped from US, not from China.

xevious
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buck91 wrote:
My Nichia order finally arrived yesterday and guess what… Cree XPG3. Too bad. Replied to the Drop CS email and they claim to have Nichia units available to swap mine with. I“ll ship it back (by pre-paid label) Monday and in another 4-6wks we will see if they were telling the truth!
I dropped mine off with UPS on Saturday, Just a couple hours later, I got an email from Brett saying that he sees the RMA package is on the way and he initiated the replacement process at Drop. I guess they have some kind of UPS receipt trigger service to the RMA originator. Seriously impressive customer service!
jon_slider
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moderator007 wrote:
Just to update the resistor mod for changing low and med resistors. Changing them around on the Lumintop aaa tool, … does not work.
thanks, I deleted my post about that this is your original post in case it helps others http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1589135#comment-1589135
moderator007 wrote:
I think I got this labeled right. You can check the resistance of each with a DMM. I think high measured less than .200 ohms (my DMM doesn’t measure very accuratly down that low). Med measured around 1 ohm and low 10 ohms. Changing low to 100 to 500 ohms will give you a lower low. Mine has a 500 ohm and measured about .5 lumens. These appear to be 0402 size resistors, tiny and fun to solder. Just be careful not to shoot it across the room when picking them up with tweezers, never to be seen again Facepalm .

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

gottobegeek
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Hey Folks,
I got the Cree version also. Sent a message to Drop and Got a refund, so cannot really complain.

g

jbc247
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gottobegeek wrote:
Hey Folks, I got the Cree version also. Sent a message to Drop and Got a refund, so cannot really complain.

Any reason why they have given you a refund instead of shipping the item back? I ordered the nichia and haven’t received it yet.

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