New Olight i1R 2 EOS

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scalpel_ninja
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You’re welcome! It did take 2-3 rounds of application and removal to really get the color out of the knurling. Have fun and hope it goes well for you!

For sale:

Multiple budget knives


Current Collection:

Before BLF helped me see the high CRI light: Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XP-G2

After BLF helped me see the high CRI light: Wowtac A2S NW | FW3A SST-20 4000K + 18350 tube | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Reylight Pineapple Mini Copper Nichia 219B | Fireflies SS AAA Nichia 219B SW45k D220 | Reylight LAN Ti Nichia 219C + tritium | Astrolux S41 Stainless Nichia 219C | Convoy S2+ Orange 7135x8 T6-3B | Reylight Titanium Pineapple Mini x2

Inbound: SkyLumen LEPvn | Convoy S2+ Grey SST-20 4000k

FW3T SST-20 4000K (lost/stolen?)

Unheard
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I got mine today. Tint is as cold as the mint body color.

Left: nrgwn, 5600K; right: i2RII

contactcr
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Thanks to reddit user Masterironchef for the brute tip. Remove front half, bang from top. I used this hex key + a bit of mouse pad and banged on it a few times and all the bits dropped to the bottom.

The stock LED is approx 1.75mm x 1.75mm

The LED pads look a bit undersized with maybe a total width of ~1.4mm or something but that is less important than the gap which is too small for me to measure accurately.

I guess this puts us in E21A range sizing up a bit or XD16/E17A sizing down a bit. The optic opening is large at ~4mm.

I have an amber XQ-E I could probably put on there but it would be hideous i’m sure.

Unheard
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Thanks for sharing. How did you desolder the LED?

contactcr
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Preheater on bottom, hot air on top.

contactcr
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The saga continues…
.
..

….

E21A fits! but it’s impossibly hard to center!!

If I recall the + side is the side with the tiny resistor and – is the open side. It’s a little crooked but it’s almost centered and it does work (used multi-meter on driver to test), phew.

Trying to “press fit” everything back together proved to be a challenge. I think I warped my original AL ground ring thing and I could never get it to sit flush enough to reliably go into “high” mode.

Had to fashion new ghetto ground ring out of a sealing washer and part of a spring. I left the bent ring that touches the ground on the driver loose under the washer. Now the entire light is like double the weight Facepalm

Ok whatever, it works. Now for the pièce de résistance! Doh there’s a ugly ring around the outermost spill (was that there before, I think so?) – we can overlook that, I have a big shot E21A that i’m gonna be bragging about on BLF and it’s really bright to boot!

but something else isn’t right and I cant put my finger on it Question

::Take spectral reading of mystery E21A acquired from friend:: 5400K and 75 CRI, DOH!
.
..

….

To be continued….

jon_slider
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> I have an amber XQ-E I could probably put on there but it would be hideous i’m sure.

agree

,

> Take spectral reading of mystery E21A acquired from friend:: 5400K and 75 CRI, DOH!

trashed! Sick

no wonder they looked so pale
a white elephant gift, so to speak

contactcr
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It has reached its final form…

Different 3500K E21A, took 2 tries to center. I guess I shorted it the first time but the final result was probably more centered than any of my previous attempts so that’s good. I also soldered that final loose ring that contacts the driver ground to the copper washer on just one side so it’s still raised up a little.

Beam is even better than the other E21A, no more off colored outer ring. Left is Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K – Right is Olight I1R II E21A 3500K

low (4-5lm) / high (75lm+)

jon_slider
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Love beautiful work
Cemoi
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Hi all,

I've got mine free when ordering an M2R on the French Olightstore. I was unlucky at the color lottery, since I received a dark grey one whereas I would have preferred a green or red one.

Thanks moderator007 and phouton for the explanation on how to remove the head. Can it be put back easily and without any damage?

As far as I understand this is the only way to measure the battery voltage, correct? I tried to mesure it on the four contacts of an USB charge cable, but got zero V in all contact pairs.

I like to monitor the charge status of my Li-ion lights: charge them around 90% SoC (4.1V) : better for the battery long term life than charging it frequently to 100%, and still a good runtime available. And recharge when they're down to 40 % i.e. 3.8V.

But I can't imagine removing the head too often to do so.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al

contactcr
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Cemoi wrote:
how to remove the head. Can it be put back easily and without any damage?

Repeatedly opening the head that way will eventually break the top O ring (in my case after only a few times). I cant imagine this light is worth going through the trouble. Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess? Have you measured if it even gets to 4.2V to begin with?

Pete7874
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Cemoi wrote:

But I can’t imagine removing the head too often to do so.


Yeah, it’s a free light. I wouldn’t go through too much trouble just to make the battery live a little bit longer.
Unheard
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contactcr wrote:
E21A fits!

Want.

Where to get this LED? Clemence still can’t offer economy shipping to my country Tired .

Cemoi
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contactcr wrote:
Have you measured if it even gets to 4.2V to begin with?

I'd like to, but how to measure this without accessing the battery poles?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al

contactcr
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Cemoi wrote:

contactcr wrote:
Have you measured if it even gets to 4.2V to begin with?

I’d like to, but how to measure this without accessing the battery poles?

The threads (-) and the brass pillar (+), i’m charging mine fully now I will let you know where it ends up

Cemoi
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contactcr wrote:
The threads (-) and the brass pillar (+)

Which can only be accessed by removing the head, correct?

I can manage the head to go very slightly sideways, but it doesn't come off and I dont dare pulling too hard.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al

contactcr
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Unheard wrote:
contactcr wrote:
E21A fits!

Want.

Where to get this LED? Clemence still can’t offer economy shipping to my country Tired .

I wouldn’t do this mod again personally. Press fit Olights deserve their cool white fate. I did it more as a challenge with zero concern if I ruin the light and lets be honest I did ruin it but managed to fix it enough to work again. It is cool to see that this optic will more or less focus a CSP type small led though, maybe there is hope for other lights.

contactcr
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Cemoi wrote:

contactcr wrote:
The threads (-) and the brass pillar (+)

Which can only be accessed by removing the head, correct?


I can manage the head to go very slightly sideways, but it doesn’t come off and I dont dare pulling too hard.

Right, if you aren’t willing to yank it apart while it’s slightly sideways and risk ruining the O ring and having the spring fly out then I think you should just be content with not caring about the battery charge state.

Pete7874
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contactcr wrote:
Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess?

You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?
contactcr
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Pete7874 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess?
You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?

Yes, assuming it works like that

Unheard
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contactcr wrote:
I did it more as a challenge with zero concern if I ruin the light […]

Sure, it’s low CRI cold white. If have not a single “friend” I’d give it to. But it’s nice to look at. It’s mint. And it’s small, so it uses only little space.

Nah, it’s ok. I’m grateful for Olights gifts Thumbs Up

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contactcr wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess?
You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?

Yes, assuming it works like that


It does. It normally pulls about 0.076A, and then starts dropping towards the end of charging cycle.
contactcr
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Pete7874 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess?
You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?

Yes, assuming it works like that


It does. It normally pulls about 0.076A, and then starts dropping towards the end of charging cycle.

That would likely be a decent way to at least guess the top end voltage. For the bottom, a lux meter? Lol.

FYI, fresh off the charger it measures 4.16-4.17

I will be sending my friend Unheard a Christmas card this year so I can get the gifts of high cri neutral white lights and those artisan German forceps.

Luxeon HL1 might also fit as a more throwy alternative and it comes in 90 CRI: https://www.lumileds.com/products/high-power-leds/luxeon-csp-hl1/

Unheard
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contactcr wrote:
I will be sending my friend Unheard a Christmas card this year so I can get the gifts of high cri neutral white lights and those artisan German forceps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b2bUZ3eeRE

s/gun/forceps

Wink
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I was charging mine but fell asleep, when I got up the indicator light was still red 7 hours later or more, it seems to have charged though, anyone have this issue?

phouton
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Blackbeard wrote:
I was charging mine but fell asleep, when I got up the indicator light was still red 7 hours later or more, it seems to have charged though, anyone have this issue?

Yes. I had a 3 hour charging session where the light remained red. It seemed charged. The next time I charged it after a little use, the light turned green after about an hour. Unsettling.
starryalley
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phouton wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
I was charging mine but fell asleep, when I got up the indicator light was still red 7 hours later or more, it seems to have charged though, anyone have this issue?
Yes. I had a 3 hour charging session where the light remained red. It seemed charged. The next time I charged it after a little use, the light turned green after about an hour. Unsettling.

I just received mine as the free gift. Charged it right away and after 10min the red light was off. No green light at all, but it seemed charged. Then I turned on HIGH for about 10min and then charged again, red light was off about 30-40min later and still no green light at all. But it seems all good. Weird.

starryalley
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I took out my USB meter and found that the charging current is about 0.08A only. So it’s about 1C charging given this light comes with only 70mAh battery. Make sense to me.
According to this https://theflashlightguy.wordpress.com/2020/05/13/olight-i1r-2-eos-review/ it looks like when approaching end (guess it’s the CV phase) it only draws 30mA. Some power bank may turn off due to this low current. Maybe that’s what happened to me earlier because I’m actually using a powerbank to charge this light. I’ve attached the light to a USB hub which is constantly powered on. Let’s see if the green light comes on Silly

Edit: when approaching the end of charging it actually showed 0.00A on my USB meter, and then after about 10-15min in this 0.00A stage the green light turned on!

Unheard
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OT:

starryalley wrote:
Edit: when approaching the end of charging it actually showed 0.00A on my USB meter, and then after about 10-15min in this 0.00A stage the green light turned on!

Congrats on your USB meter. Mine shows zero when charging the i1R2 all the time, even when charging a Nitecore Tube. Consequently it sums up to zero Ah. Guess the price makes a difference (bought the cheapest meter I could find).
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I was charging it with an iphone charger in a standard 120v outlet, it stayed red the whole time at least 7 hours, but I did charge it off a PC usb port prior to this and it did turn green at a normal time. It is weird, maybe a firmware glitch? I will try next time with a usb meter and see if that tells me anything.

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