Noctigon K1 info / review

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Agro
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Except that the grease would still make the items involved dirty.
I don’t want to sound like it kills the feature, it doesn’t. But this style of a charging port is now my third 4th least preferred after:

  • not having any port cover (strongly dislike)
  • having a cover that I may want to remove during use like (strongly dislike)
  • ADDED: non-USB port (forces me to carry extra cable) (clearly dislike, slightly less than the ones above)

This one I dislike.
And I prefer:

  • port on the cell (still a short risk but no grease) (I have mixed feelings)
  • a cover flap (may get lost but otherwise it works great) (like when quality is good)
  • a cover ring (like)

Agro
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After writing that I noticed there’s yet another way that I would really like but I haven’t seen it implemented.
Place the charger on the cell but deactivate battery pole while there’s USB cable plugged in (which indicates that ends are exposed).

TexasToasted
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I’d like to see a magnetic charge port on the back side of the raised area, where the button is, like this.

JordanZHP
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TexasToasted wrote:
I’d like to see a magnetic charge port on the back side of the raised area, where the button is, like this. !https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cWmV6G2/0/1a1ea6ab/M/i-cWmV6G2-M.png!

The only problem with this is the proprietary cable. If you bring multiple lights somewhere now you need to bring multiple cables. Also what happens if the cable breaks? This is why the USB C standard is ideal.

P33
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Hank, would it be possible to order one with a different switch cover? Preferably black but really anything else then white would do.
Also it the switch you’re using still ALPS?

Souichirou
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JordanZHP wrote:
TexasToasted wrote:
I’d like to see a magnetic charge port on the back side of the raised area, where the button is, like this. !https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cWmV6G2/0/1a1ea6ab/M/i-cWmV6G2-M.png!

The only problem with this is the proprietary cable. If you bring multiple lights somewhere now you need to bring multiple cables. Also what happens if the cable breaks? This is why the USB C standard is ideal.

Eh, I prefer the good old take the battery out and swap in a freshly charged and place them in a dedicated charging bay. I don’t need extra cables and a good charging bay with a few spare batteries works better than having the light out of commission while charging. But that’s my 2 cents.

JordanZHP
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Souichirou wrote:
JordanZHP wrote:
TexasToasted wrote:
I’d like to see a magnetic charge port on the back side of the raised area, where the button is, like this. !https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cWmV6G2/0/1a1ea6ab/M/i-cWmV6G2-M.png!

The only problem with this is the proprietary cable. If you bring multiple lights somewhere now you need to bring multiple cables. Also what happens if the cable breaks? This is why the USB C standard is ideal.

Eh, I prefer the good old take the battery out and swap in a freshly charged and place them in a dedicated charging bay. I don’t need extra cables and a good charging bay with a few spare batteries works better than having the light out of commission while charging. But that’s my 2 cents.

Oh I agree. I rarely use built in charging. It’s a nice addition for a non-EDC, as long as it doesn’t hurt waterproofing (like Hank’s design on K1). For a EDC I don’t want built in charging, just makes the light bigger.

DB Custom
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Thanks TK, nice write up. And thank you Jordan ZHP for the heads-up, ordered the grey one with a 1×1 White Flat for ultimate throw. Didn’t realize just How MUCH Bigger it is than the D1S until I located this thread though. Love it! Big Smile Can’t wait to see it in hand.

First light I’ve purchased in a while, may or may not use the C charging but at least it’s there in a pinch.

ToyKeeper
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DB Custom wrote:
ordered the grey one with a 1×1 White Flat for ultimate throw.

… may or may not use the C charging but at least it’s there in a pinch.

It sounds like you’re getting the best one. If you’re getting a thrower, may as well make it throw. Smile

I didn’t think I’d use the built-in charger, but I’ve found it really useful so far. It can charge at 2A, and my only other 21700 charger maxes out at 1A. So it has been pretty handy for reducing the time between runtime tests.

Once that’s all done though, I might stick with the external charger for the simple reason that my driver isn’t glued and I don’t want to risk breaking any cables or connections by unscrewing the handle a lot. But this wouldn’t be an issue with a production unit.

Anyway, it’s nice having something with a beam similar to a GT but small enough to actually use. Smile

bmengineer
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Someone convince Hank to make a tail switch accessory and I might have to buy one of these – I know Anduril already supports dual switch layouts, and the flashing pads will make firmware modifications a breeze.

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

Pavlo
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Thanks for the review Toykeeper.
It is noticeably bigger than the D1S, but performance is top of its class and makes lights like the BLF GT a little obsolete.

Looking forward to see the specs of the Boost driver version with XHP35.

zak.wilson
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I’m really eager to see the specs of the boost driver performance. I think driver efficiency is a neglected attribute in the enthusiast market lately, especially in small lights where heat matters (not that the K1 is small or prone to overheating). It may end up being hard to pick between SST-20 and XHP35 HI.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

ToyKeeper
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FWIW, runtime tests are still in progress. I’ve added some results to the graph, but I’m still adding more as the tests finish.

It may be necessary to shift-reload to get the newest version of the image though. Browsers might cache it even though the timestamp has changed.

Results are pretty much as expected — nearly flat until the battery voltage falls below the LED voltage, and then it slopes down in a shape directly matching the battery’s discharge curve until LVP activates, and then it stair-steps down for a rather long time until finally shutting itself off at 2.9V.

Even on a low battery though, just before LVP activates, it still makes 100+ kcd. So it out-performs a D1S or GT-Mini until the battery is at like 3% charge.

drewpawlow
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Nice! Thank you for the runtime tests. I just grabbed 4 more Samsung 50E batteries while they were on sale for $5 a pop. Might have to splurge and get this awesome light. Still having trouble deciding between the 2mm and 1mm. This is an awesome light.

p60 isn’t dead

ZED
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Can we start a thread where we accidentally get drunk and buy things, recently by Hank, and mostly by Hank. I’ll update tomorrow when Elysia knows what I did. What’s wrong with us? Thanks FTK..

-Zach

DB Custom
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Might be interesting to fit the 90.2 to this beauty…

Theodore41
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sp5it wrote:
twisted raven wrote:
Let’s be honest though, on such a pencil beam thrower, the only mode we want is turbo.

True. On/off is enough.
Mike

…plus strobe mode.For self defense of course… Smile
junkyardbiker
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ZED wrote:
Can we start a thread where we accidentally get drunk and buy things, recently by Hank, and mostly by Hank. I’ll update tomorrow when Elysia knows what I did. What’s wrong with us? Thanks FTK..
I did the same thing. Had just ordered myself a replacement D4V2 and the K1 wasn’t on the site yet. Sitting down with some beers and popped my head into BLF and theres the K1. Went straight back to Hanks site and there it was. Immediately ordered it in Dark Grey W1…..

Lurking flashaholic, Ive bought all my flashlights through lurking here, BLF A6, Sofirn C8F, Soforn Q8, Emisar D4, and a few not so budget lights but I mod them all the same! Been waiting for the FW3A to come out for years now.......

Th558
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DB Custom wrote:
Might be interesting to fit the 90.2 to this beauty…

Me and a few others have suggested that. He said the driver is only 5 amps but the WF2 version is pulling around 8 amps. All he has to do is add a direct drive turbo mode.
Gerrit
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I could not resist it anymore and ordered a K1 W1

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I don’t have any experience with white flats. Do they have issues with green tints?

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trakcon wrote:
I don’t have any experience with white flats. Do they have issues with green tints?

Not at all

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trakcon wrote:
I don’t have any experience with white flats. Do they have issues with green tints?

It hasn’t been measured that I’m aware of.

However, it doesn’t look green to me, and I usually notice even mild green tints.

On the other hand, “white” gets a little weird at 6000K. Some standards actually shift the ideal tint line up at CCTs above 4500K in order to match perception better, so a positive duv at 6000K means something different than a positive duv at 4000K.

Here’s a recent chart from maukka, showing the alternate standard for white:

I’m guessing the White Flat is probably on the dotted line around 6000K, but that’s just a guess. I think it’s designed for use in video projectors, and its color distribution is pretty close to a computer monitor.

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Yep, had to order one. Got the W1 for ultimate throw. Will be my first mega thrower.

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trakcon wrote:
I don’t have any experience with white flats. Do they have issues with green tints?

As TK also noted, tint measurements of the White Flat may not have been posted yet, or I may have missed a maukka test. Here is a quick measurement of the hotspot from a 1mm2 White Flat in a shorty Convoy S8 with smooth reflector, uncoated lens, at three non-exact-defined Innocent currents.

Low-ish current:
CCT=6500K, duv= -0.0012, CRI=68

High current:
CCT=7370K, duv= -0.0075, CRI=69

Highest current (I assume around 4.5A):
CCT=8488K, duv= -0.0113, CRI=72

So no green, duv is always negative, at highest current tint goes towards purple.

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Theodore41 wrote:
sp5it wrote:
twisted raven wrote:
Let’s be honest though, on such a pencil beam thrower, the only mode we want is turbo.
True. On/off is enough. Mike
…plus strobe mode.For self defense of course… Smile

Might as well have Lightning mode, to convince folks three blocks over it’s going to storm.

More Photons!

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Thanks, TK & djozz! This is probably going to have to be my first real thrower (that I have no real need for). I have a Catapult V6 already, and it never gets used except for playing, but….I’m still going to have to have a K1!

ToyKeeper
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djozz wrote:
Highest current (I assume around 4.5A):
CCT=8488K, duv= -0.0113, CRI=72

So no green, duv is always negative, at highest current tint goes towards purple.

Wow, that’s really cold and purple. I’m not sure it’s representative of the K1 though. At turbo level, mine doesn’t look anywhere near that cold, and it doesn’t look purple.

Next to a Cree XM-L 1A (~6700K), the XM-L looks bright blue while the K1 looks like it’s just white. If I turn it up all the way though, the K1’s spill area starts looking about as blue as the XM-L 1A, and the hotspot still looks white. It’s hard to tell the hotspot color at turbo though, since it’s bright enough that it kind of hurts to look at.

There’s definitely some CCT shifting going on, but it looks like it stays under 7000K even on turbo.

I don’t have proper equipment to measure this though. The spec sheet says the White Flat should be around 6000K, but by eye it looks to me like it ranges from about ~5500K to ~6700K depending on the power level.

ToyKeeper
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BillyBobJoe wrote:
Will be my first mega thrower.

It’s a really good thrower, but not technically a mega thrower. It doesn’t reach 1 Mcd like some of the bigger lights do.

However, it gets at least 0.6 Mcd, and that’s pretty unusual for something this size. The size alone makes it a lot more practical than any true mega throwers I’ve seen so far.

Be warned though… the narrow spot means you only get to see one small area at a time. It’s really not meant for short distance use. For something more general-purpose, I’d suggest something smaller and less throwy, like an Emisar D4S, D1, or D4.

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Quote:
 the narrow spot means you only get to see one small area at a time

I have a White Flat (actually a KW CULNM1-TG, the 4×4mm version) in a GT-micro and had it with me camping this summer. Even in this small light the hotspot is so narrow that following a trail is very difficult. The K1 should be much worse for that.

About the very cold tint, the White Flat does that when close to its maximum output but visually it still looks good. Going higher with the current does give you a nasty purple tint, but that is a even higher CCT than the 8500K that I measured.

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