Noctigon K1 info / review

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LTC
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TexasToasted wrote:
I ordered dark gray Dec 2. It looks more brown in the pictures which is fine with me. I don’t have mine yet but tracking shows it’s close.

ghost face wrote:
It now says color is dark brown in Intl-Outdoor site. I think said dark gray before. Was color of anodize changed actually or is that just more accurate to say brown? Have not seen many but some people call dark gray more like black.

Any opportunity to have a warm LED in switch or dark rubber switch? It is too bright IMO.
And a 26650 tube? I own no 21700 but many 26650. Could use 18650 I guess

Yes, it says dark gray a few days back. I emailed Hank to assure choosing the correct colour option for my order. With reply, and it was changed to Dark Brown which actually match the picture description.

TexasToasted
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My dark gray arrived today.



chinooker
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21700 on the D1S (green preferably!!)
26650 on the K1
Not about capacity/runtime….just about scale and fit to function
Is there anything in Feng shui about this?

It is out of scale.

brainfriction
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I just want to say Mr. Hank Wang you are awesome. I’ve got a D4V2, D4V2 TI, D1S, and now this ridiculously awesome K1. You really make this hobby more enjoyable with all these lights that perform without breaking the bank.

Sofirn Q8
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Harborseal
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Gerrit wrote:

Thanks for the video. I’m not educated enough to speak German, unfortunately. Which was the flashlight on the Left in the white wall testing? Could you tell the difference in the spot brightness at about 20’ between the 2 lights outdoors? Thanks.

TexasToasted
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chinooker wrote:
26650 on the K1
Not about capacity/runtime….just about scale and fit to function
Is there anything in Feng shui about this?

It is out of scale.

Here you go. Notice that both switch LEDs are lit. Both are fully functional.

Harborseal
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So that’s the battery tube from the FT03 on the K1? Impressive! Is the K1 head light still water proof?

Harborseal
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I have a question about battery choice for the K1 W1. In one place early in the thread it was reported that a battery capable of outputting more amps would have the extra amps converted to heat ad so be wasted. In another comment it said that a higher amp battery would be able to hold turbo longer.

Is it both?

Also, since the W1 uses 3 A less on Turbo it should have a much longer run time, right? Or does the extra power just go to heat? Am I missing something?

Bottom line:

What battery is best for the W1 version which will be used in the upper 1/3rd of the power range for 20-40 seconds then be off for minutes?

Thanks!

JordanZHP
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For W1 I think it has been agreed on Samsung 50E 5000mah is your best bet.

Gerrit
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Harborseal wrote:
Gerrit wrote:

Thanks for the video. I’m not educated enough to speak German, unfortunately. Which was the flashlight on the Left in the white wall testing? Could you tell the difference in the spot brightness at about 20’ between the 2 lights outdoors? Thanks.

On the left side is the W2 larger hotspot. JoJo said in the video that the W1 on the right side is brighter

TexasToasted
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Harborseal wrote:
So that’s the battery tube from the FT03 on the K1? Impressive! Is the K1 head light still water proof?

I think it is waterproof.
The o-ring on the FT03 tube does get fully compressed into the K1 head, but
the end of the battery tube can’t reach all the way to the driver board so I had to use a conductive spacer to complete the connection to the ground ring on the driver board.
The o-ring on the K1 tube does not get compressed on the FT03 head, because the tube contacts the driver before it is fully threaded into the head.
The threads on both lights match, but the threaded section on the K1 tube is longer than the threaded section on the F03 tube.
Also, the 26650 battery sets lower in the tube because of the spacer between the tube and head. The springs just barely make contact with the battery. A long, protected, 26650, or 21700 would work great.

will34
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Harborseal wrote:
I have a question about battery choice for the K1 W1. In one place early in the thread it was reported that a battery capable of outputting more amps would have the extra amps converted to heat ad so be wasted. In another comment it said that a higher amp battery would be able to hold turbo longer.

Is it both?

Also, since the W1 uses 3 A less on Turbo it should have a much longer run time, right? Or does the extra power just go to heat? Am I missing something?

Bottom line:

What battery is best for the W1 version which will be used in the upper 1/3rd of the power range for 20-40 seconds then be off for minutes?

Thanks!

This is just in theory since no measurement has been taken comparing side to side: Both drivers setting should draw about the same from the battery but while the W1 burns it off as heat W2 is being sent to the emitter resulting in extra lumens.

As the battery gets drained the voltage gap gets smaller and it becomes more efficient, with a high drain battery it will maintain turbo longer but overall runtime will be less. With a low drain cell it will continue to power the light much longer once it drops out of regulation when it doesn’t have to burn extra volt as heat so in the end you get a higher lumens-hour reading.

If you’re interested in highest output you should stick with high drain cells.

DB Custom
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I would have thought that since the W1 driver is current limited to protect the White Flat then it only draws 5A from the cell, regardless of the capability of the cell. Or that’s been my experience in the last 1000 lights or so that I’ve dealt with…

TexasToasted
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will34 wrote:
Harborseal wrote:
I have a question about battery choice for the K1 W1. In one place early in the thread it was reported that a battery capable of outputting more amps would have the extra amps converted to heat ad so be wasted. In another comment it said that a higher amp battery would be able to hold turbo longer.

Is it both?

Also, since the W1 uses 3 A less on Turbo it should have a much longer run time, right? Or does the extra power just go to heat? Am I missing something?

Bottom line:

What battery is best for the W1 version which will be used in the upper 1/3rd of the power range for 20-40 seconds then be off for minutes?

Thanks!

This is just in theory since no measurement has been taken comparing side to side: Both drivers setting should draw about the same from the battery but while the W1 burns it off as heat W2 is being sent to the emitter resulting in extra lumens.

As the battery gets drained the voltage gap gets smaller and it becomes more efficient, with a high drain battery it will maintain turbo longer but overall runtime will be less. With a low drain cell it will continue to power the light much longer once it drops out of regulation when it doesn’t have to burn extra volt as heat so in the end you get a higher lumens-hour reading.

If you’re interested in highest output you should stick with high drain cells.

Posted earlier in this thread-

Hank Wang wrote:
1stein wrote:
How many Amps it pulls in Turbo? 4? 4,5? 5?

4.9A for the W1, 7.8A for the W2.

I would not expect any performance differences between cells if it only draws 4.9A max.

Harborseal
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Thanks, everyone!

Figgy
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@Gerrit: are your W10 and W30 the vn/skylumen version or they from somewhere else?

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DB Custom wrote:
I would have thought that since the W1 driver is current limited to protect the White Flat then it only draws 5A from the cell, regardless of the capability of the cell. Or that’s been my experience in the last 1000 lights or so that I’ve dealt with…

Dale is correct.

Runtime will be longer with higher capacity. At load as low as 5A, that’s it. End of story.

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EasyB
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Harborseal wrote:
I have a question about battery choice for the K1 W1. In one place early in the thread it was reported that a battery capable of outputting more amps would have the extra amps converted to heat ad so be wasted. In another comment it said that a higher amp battery would be able to hold turbo longer.

Is it both?

Also, since the W1 uses 3 A less on Turbo it should have a much longer run time, right? Or does the extra power just go to heat? Am I missing something?

Bottom line:

What battery is best for the W1 version which will be used in the upper 1/3rd of the power range for 20-40 seconds then be off for minutes?

Thanks!

The report that the extra amps will be converted to heat is not really correct but probably is referring to the fact that the higher amp cell can maintain a higher voltage at a given current (because of its lower IR) and that means extra voltage to be burned off by the driver. But the extra heat is probably not significant.

ZED
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Anyone else’s K1 just sitting at JFK? I ordered November 30th Sad

-Zach

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Same here, maybe the tracking is not keeping up with actual location? In any case, it will get here when it does…

ghost face
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That 26650 tube looks good but not the best fitting as you said. I wonder will D4S or other 26650tube fit that intl-outdoor can just offer both? I would buy it.

are you alone in the house?

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D4S and D4SV2 tubes are too wide.I ried a lot of different battery tubes and the only one I have that matched up was the FT03.

TexasToasted
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Took my new K1 W1 for a 5 mile hike last night. It is really amazing to light up a house on the other side of the lake, over half a kilometer away.
Great for spotting Opossums, Nutra Rats, Herons, Ducks, etc. Really freaks them out when you hit them with that blinding beam Big Smile
But, as was mentioned by others, this really is a specialized light, not at all practical for just walking around. It’s kind of an all or nothing type light.
So I just ordered another one with the XPL HI V2 5D Big Smile

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I blasted a skunk the other night with my W30vn. It got freaked out and ran. I thought animals are not afraid of bright light lol.

pearlriver
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arrived

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Mine is sitting at LAX since December 9th

AlexGT
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So how does this light compares to the Astrolux FT03 SST40? Has anyone posted a comparison beamshot between the two?

Thanks!

TexasToasted
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AlexGT wrote:
So how does this light compares to the Astrolux FT03 SST40? Has anyone posted a comparison beamshot between the two?

Thanks!


Not even close. My FT03 SST40 is a flood light compared to the crazy tight beam of the K1 W1. This picture shows both lights about 25 feet from the wall. Both lights are set near the low end of their intensity range. And, yes, the SST40 really is that ugly green tint Sick

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pearlriver wrote:
arrived

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How would a Convoy L2 W1 compare with the K1 W1?

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