MF01 Mini / MT07- Mod/Upgrade - Copper Heatsink Cover Plate - 1st batch shipped - 2nd in production

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man of light
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ledlightfanatic wrote:
ledlightfanatic wrote:
I need one pretty please! I cannot be stuck with a light that doesn’t live up to its full potential… One unit is all that I ask please, please bump out multi-orders as this is not fair if max is only 100. We all deserve a chance. Hat

Also, I am even willing to pre-pay in order to secure the item in advance, if necessary.

Looking forward to your response.

Don’t need to worry, you’re on the list (post #2) for the batch, you will surely get one.

Pre pay is not easy to handle for me, I will provide info to everybody on the list via PM as soon as the payments can be done and afterwards the shipping will be started.
But unfortunately it will take some time, it depends on the supplier / manufacturer.

I hope the first half of the batch can be shipped before christmas.

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Petr J.
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Interested. Two pieces please.

Coaster
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Interested for 1.

Tete
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2 for me, please! Smile

Lund1660
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1 piece for me please. Thanks

man of light
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For information, updated status in post #1 and list post #2.

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mxyzptlk
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When are the isolation stickers mandatory?
Are these also needed if button top batteries are used?

panagis
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interested…
Shipping cost for Greece ???

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mxyzptlk wrote:
When are the isolation stickers mandatory? Are these also needed if button top batteries are used?

Strictly speaking they should not be. There is a raised stud that touches the positive pole and the battery shouldnt touch the copper plate BUT! it could. In some cases if you drop the the flashlight the stud will press the button top down and insert itself into the battery. In that case you could short the battery positive pole right next to the negative. I wanted to send you a link to a thread where they discussed how those button tops could compress during flashlight falling but couldnt find it. You dont have to use the stickers but I would. You can also consider epoxying one side, or liquid electricians tape and stuff like that.

mxyzptlk
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Thank you. Thumbs Up

Duke
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Interested for 1. if possible.

ZozzV6
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Tracking shows that my test sample is at our local post office. I am at work night shift now. Tomorrow I think I will get it and start testing it Wink

sleasys14
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Interested in 1 please.
man of light
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Tracking shows that my test sample is at our local post office. I am at work night shift now. Tomorrow I think I will get it and start testing it Wink

Thanks for the update, looking forward to your results and review of the MF01 mini.

.
.
.

panagis wrote:
interested…
Shipping cost for Greece ???
Duke wrote:
Interested for 1. if possible.
sleasys14 wrote:
Interested in 1 please.

The first Batch of 100 pcs. is fully reserved by the interested, see the list in post #2. If somebody of them will jump off, there could be some parts available from. I’m not able to stock up the batch, the price agreement with the supplier/manufacturer was done for 100 pcs,he’s got already the material and the production is started now.

I will put you and other interested in a second list for a possible second batch, but at the moment there are no plannings for this. The realisation depends on the count of interested, I doubt we will get another 100pcs list full. In case the batch will be smaller, the price will be higher. But we can try it.

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ZozzV6
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First test happened.
Short result: it works

More detailed:
The edge thickness is a bit high. It leaves a gap between head and tube but around 0.5mm and O-ring perfectly 8nside head so not much deal. I will polish the edge which contacts the driver but without that I see a big improvement. First I made a reset on anduril to try as it is out of the box. Stock ramp max was 2200 lumens. With plastic it dropped instant to around 8-900 and creeped back up and then down… With copper thing it has around 20% drop from 2200 lumens then went up to 2000-2100 and stayed there for 3 and half minutes. After that it slowly reduced output to 750 lumens at 7 minutes. The hottest temp under this test was 43°C on head. I will recalibrate temperature and set 50°C limit for stepdown and see what I got. Now 4 pieces of liitokala 26650-s are in charger to start all test runs with full battery. I made a video of installing and I will add runtime graphs to it and upload that this weekend or early next week.

man of light
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ZozzV6 wrote:
First test happened.
Short result: it works

Thanks for your first impressions.

Please tell us which version of the MF01 Mini / MT07 you tested. Due to your output levels, I guess the 5000K or the 6500K.
.

ZozzV6 wrote:
The edge thickness is a bit high. It leaves a gap between head and tube but around 0.5mm and O-ring perfectly 8nside head so not much deal.

Well, this is kind of a “It’s not a bug, its a feature” thing Wink
A small gap between head and tube is necessary to ensure a proper contact of the battery tube to the heatsink plate. In stock case, there is a gap between the plastic cap and the battery tube while it’s completely screwed in.
.

ZozzV6 wrote:
With copper thing it has around 20% drop from 2200 lumens then went up to 2000-2100 and stayed there for 3 and half minutes. After that it slowly reduced output to 750 lumens at 7 minutes.

Do you used Thermal compound for this first test?

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ZozzV6
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Mine is MF01 mini 5000K.
Yes I used thermal grease. Can’t tell the exact type. We use at work for industrial electronics heat sinking. It is working well in my dedomed Imalent MS18 so it will do the job. I show full assembly with applying thermal grease in video.

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First test was with an Imalent wrapped don’t know what originally made battery. Made a few other tests. With Liitokala it has 2450 lumens stock ramp max. It made the drop at half minute to around 1200 lumens but after that it ramped up and holded 90% of ramp max for 7 minute from the start. I tried raise stepdown temperature to 50 and 60°C. And lowered ramp max to 1650 and then 1367 lumens. That mean in ramp max setting 30 and 35 clicks. The first drop stayed and then hold the output well and interestingly started drop output again at 7 minutes. So I pretty much getting same graph shapes just the height is the difference. I try to replace thermal grease with thermal silicon pads and polish the copper bottom.

I starting to think that the first drop is a program caused thing. It senses a bit fast temp change and scared and starting to drop output to avoid heat up.

SKV89
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Very interesting test results. Looking forward to more Big Smile Maybe Toykeeper can chime in on the 7 minute step down.

Thanks for your hard work! Beer

man of light
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Thanks for your work and testings Zozz. Looking forward to your graphs and Videos.

The fact that you have this first drop, at around 30 sec, in all cases, no matter which output level, sounds to me like you still have an thermal conductivity bottleneck.
From my experiences while testing, this can happen if the contact between copper heatsink plate and the surfaces at the driver pcb and the head inner diameter is thermally bad contacted.
You probably already have done this, but please make sure that thermal compound is putted on all surfaces I marked green in my description, not only at the top surfaces of the AMC’s. This can make the difference to avoid the first step down.

I am looking forward to your results, thanks again.

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ZozzV6
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man of light wrote:
Thanks for your work and testings Zozz. Looking forward to your graphs and Videos.

The fact that you have this first drop, at around 30 sec, in all cases, no matter which output level, sounds to me like you still have an thermal conductivity bottleneck.
From my experiences while testing, this can happen if the contact between copper heatsink plate and the surfaces at the driver pcb and the head inner diameter is thermally bad contacted.
You probably already have done this, but please make sure that thermal compound is putted on all surfaces I marked green in my description, not only at the top surfaces of the AMC’s. This can make the difference to avoid the first step down.

I am looking forward to your results, thanks again.


You are right! I only putted thermal grease on 7135s top. I will disassemble and add to the rest of the surfaces where needed.
johnzm
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i know this could change cost, but whats the issue with using a thermal pad?
that way it can be more precisely cut, applied, and with the precut parts everyone knows where it goes. also you can engineer the copper with an exact spacing to create 0 gap.

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Wonder how the alu + copper version result vs stock for mf01 mini, but I’m about to order those…

ZozzV6, you’ve got stock right??

In search of the most ideal flashlight in town:
1. BRIGHTNESS
2. Durabillity
3. Design
4. Quality
5. Price$$$

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hasddie293 wrote:
Wonder how the alu + copper version result vs stock for mf01 mini, but I’m about to order those…

ZozzV6, you’ve got stock right??

Yes I got a stock full aluminum body MF01 mini.

Removed the copper and found the thermal paste barely spreaded out. It seems helped a bit but I think there is much to improve. The gap was too big above the 7135 tops for a grease.
So I tried thermal silicone blocks this time. Cut them to size and the copper thing spreaded them out.

Then I cutted very thin layers to press thm between head side and copper spacer side:

These two graphs with 35 click ramp max setting so 1367 lumens at start. The left was just thermal grease on 7135 tops. The right was the silicone stucked version test same settings. Much smaller drop in beggining and no drop after 9 minutes. Needed to interrupt test because we had a coffee break at work Big Smile

There is nothing between driver ground edge and copper spacer so maybe there is a tiny bit to improve that first little drop but it is much better. Further tests coming weekend.
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I hope this will be corrected by the time of shipping....^^^^

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

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id30209 wrote:

I hope this will be corrected by the time of shipping….^^^^


Corrected what?

The first run was not so good because I didn’t followed instructions but better than plastic. Second is almost perfect but I still doesn’t put everywher thermal halping material where it needed. So the copper thing is good just need to follow the instructions precisely. It is a bit hard to put thermal compound to the copper side but it is doable.

id30209
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Ah ok. I thought it’s design. That sounds nice.

Thx for clarifying, wasn’t paying attention.

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

man of light
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ZozzV6 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

I hope this will be corrected by the time of shipping….^^^^


Corrected what?

The first run was not so good because I didn’t followed instructions but better than plastic. Second is almost perfect but I still doesn’t put everywher thermal halping material where it needed. So the copper thing is good just need to follow the instructions precisely. It is a bit hard to put thermal compound to the copper side but it is doable.

@Zozz, thanks for explanation and the latest results Thumbs Up

The idea to use thermal silicone pad is not bad, nice pics, thanks for the work.

It’s really important to spread the thermal compound on the defined surfaces, like shown in the description in post #1 and on this pic below.
Before mounting it should look like this, but here is a bit too much thermal compound paste spread on in this pic, just to show where it should be.

.
After mounting, use a cotton pad to clean up excess residues.

ZozzV6 wrote:
Removed the copper and found the thermal paste barely spreaded out. It seems helped a bit but I think there is much to improve. The gap was too big above the 7135 tops for a grease.

This gap is around 0,1 and 0,2 mm after mounting the copper heatsink plate. It depends on manufacturing tolerances and tolerances of the components (7135) and also of the pcb and soldering process. Designing this gap closer is possible, but it brings some risks. It may be possible that another production batch of driver pcb’s will not fit or there will be no gap. Tolerances differs often on pcb’s.

Therefore the idea to use thermal silicone pad is not bad, but in most cases you will achieve better thermal conductivity with grease/paste.

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ZozzV6
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As you said you can’t design it to get too close to 7135 top because if it has a bit more solder under you can possibly break them tightening the copper. You need a bit of clearance. That is why I tried silicone. It works like a gum and reach the 7135 sides too because of the pressure. So more contact surface to get off the heat. I maybe only use paste on that contact ring on driver. I think I will disassemble it a few times to get best results.

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