How reliable is the SunWayMan variable magnetic control?

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

Sometimes I have problems with my lights, I say this is too low, this is too high, etc...

I know about SunWayMan but have ignored them until now for some reason...how reliable is the magnetic ring they use to adjust the light level? (Ive never seen one before so I dont know how tight/loose the ring is, if its like some of my lights where the twisty skip modes so it gets annoying, etc...??)

Im looking at the V10A...its expensive but if I use it a lot and like it I wont be buying other 1AA lights.

Thanks...!

2

well it's -30C here and I used my v60c...it's reliable in the cold..have a hard time typing this with my fingers..i'll update as the things go on lol

3

i'm never regret buying V60C

4

How is it as an EDC light? Do you like it a lot?

5

Tell me about it fellow Ontario Bro...it was -21C when I walked my dog tonight...brought the Fenix E21. Love the E21, it has a nice button on the back that sticks out a lot so I can use the light no problem with heavy gloves.

Glad you like the V60...enjoy...(Did you research it a lot before you ordered?)

6

-21 to -30 is just perfect for th DRY Turbo.

7

I did research it! but all I knew was the v60v was a great light...for the price it's an amazing light...cheers to my Ontarian brother lol

8

Another ontarian here checking in....

That V60 sure is purty. Love the magnetic control ring idea. Not exactly budget however (well mine anyway)

9

I don't have a V60C (yet?) but I do own a V10A and I have handled a V20C, which originally turned me off Sunwaymans (that and the name). When I bought the V10A I thought I'd be gifting it to a friend because the magnetic control ring on the V20C seemed like a gimmick to me. There's a selfbuilt review on CPF that goes into detail on this, I think. Basically the control ring on the V20C seems like they designed it to be as frustrating as could be unless you have the fine motor control of a sniper. In terms of travel, it's alright but the human perceived brightness doesn't match measured brightness under lab conditions, so it's either going to be too bright or too dim. Long story short, I never liked the V20C.

So I bought the V10A, thinking I wouldn't like it. Well, I do. Compared to my cheap magnetic control ring lights, like the one from BIC, you can really tell the difference. Both basically do the same thing, but the V10A is so much nicer and, unlike the V20C, it actually works well. You can still dial it all the way down and look into the emitter for days if that's your thing and, obviously, it's reasonably bright if you crank it all the way up but it's the in-between that makes it a good light, well, at least in my opinion. That's where they got it right (please keep in mind, that I run mostly lithiums and if a light will take a 10440/16340/14500/18650, I won't be using NiMHs or primaries if I can help it). I can't say about reliability in cold temperatures, for one because I've only had this light for a few weeks and it never gets that cold around these parts (thank God! ;)).

10

Someone on CPF was complaining about lack of resistance and I've read a few complain about lack of tactile feedback/detents, but overall it seems to be one of the most liked and respected lights on the market.

I plan on picking up the M 3-mode version with detents if it ever gets cheap again at DD.

11

Thanks for the the comments...to all. I appreciate it.

12

Sunwayman fixed the ring issue on V20C. I've returned my first V20C back to HKequipment, the ring is now so responsible, that I can set the low so fine the the emitter is barely glowing.

13

The V20C was one of the real problem ones, but the V10A, V10R, V20A, V20R, all those i have played with (same head/driver in all of them) and the current models have the smoothest most perfect ramping profile IMO. Its perfectly visually linear (i.e actual output is exponential) and it goes low enough, and certainly high enough, especially on chemistries above 2v.

We have all bought too many lights, but the torches I actually grab off the shelf constitute the following;

For going out, medium compact size

  1. D10
  2. V10R

For slightly more power/or capacity

  1. Armytek Predator (for throw)
  2. V10R Ti 18650 (for compact with capacity)
  3. 120P 18650 (for flood)

For more power/size

  1. V60C

These make up 9/10 of what I would bring along. SO essentially, for All of my torch needs, a sunwayman V series plays a very important role, covering the compact, to the powerhouse. Essentially its the UI that makes this torch work for me, from the low to the high, and I find it super easy to achieve any level I'm after. I have never had the V20C, but all the other V series models don't seem require any sort of precision at all. I'm comfortable working with fine hand work, and maybe thats why I find it easy?

The ring is smooth, and friction is based on a Very thick grease. as long as the grease doesn't get washed out, friction will be maintained.

So with this in mind, I wouldn't really want to get it under solvents too often, however there is no reason for it to stop functioning, it might just feel different. Reliability wise, I don't worry at all, its a well built torch, and the driver looks to be well designed. Nothing under normal use will cause problems with the magnetic ring, I mean, magnetic switching is the best possible way to be controlling brightness, its the ideal non-contact way of providing an analogue adjustment with no mechanical points of failure. Just don't let the magnets get beyond finger burning temperature to risk demagnetisation (80 deg C?), which we under normal circumstances will Never achieve. I only demagnetised mine because I had it under the blowtorch ;)

14

Just wondering what a plasure must be walking a dog at -30C. Wearing navy seals thermo scuba gear?

Here is -2C (hardly lower, but if it is it is in very late night hours) and it's still pretty damn cold. :)