Lighted tail switches on a C2+ w/ Biscotti

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alpinewinter
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Lighted tail switches on a C2+ w/ Biscotti

I recently purchased a couple of lighted switches for my C2+. It’s an 8×7135 model w/ Biscotti firmware. After installing I realized they are not compatible, I’m assuming because the switch leaks enough current through the ATtiny to make it freak out.

Is there a solution to this? Is there a certain resistance value that will let the driver power off completely?

Thanks

djozz
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What I recall (checked a biscotti driver for a lighted switch two years ago) is that I never got a biscotti driver working properly with a lighted switch installed, whatever the bleeder resistor value at the driver was, or the resistor values before the leds in the tail.

toddcshoe
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It will work but, you have to set it in whatever mode set you want before installing the lighted switch. Oh yeah, bonus aggravation, it becomes next mode memory as long as the lighted tail switch is installed. Big Smile

I didn’t have the patience to mess with it so I just abandoned the lighted switch. I have one light that I just used the clear boot and filled it with 4 trits. Not super bright but easy to find on the nightstand in the dark.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

alpinewinter
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Well that’s a bummer. Interestingly, one of the switches causes the light to almost always start in config mode, the other switch will start the light on it’s lowest setting, but after clicking off and on it won’t start at all.

Same resistor values on both, but one is orange and one is blue. I wonder if the difference is in the resistance of the LEDs themselves causing different behavior.

gchart
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That’s strange, I would have expected a simple bleeder resistor on the driver to solve any weird behavior.

I use lighted tailcaps all the time in my lights, usually with a nanjg105c driver (similar to what most Convoys have). I just stretch a 750 or 840 Ohm resistor between the first star (technically just a ground pad) and the spring. And for firmware, I use my own which has it’s roots in Biscotti… they should act the same in this regard.

Pic here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1396708#comment-1396708

If your driver is the style without stars, you just need to place the bleeder somewhere between ground and positive. Perhaps by stacking on top of the decoupling capacitor.

toddcshoe
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Just for grins I put a few different lighted switches in one of the Biscotti lights I have left without a metal switch, while I was watching the OU game. I didn’t get all the switches from the same place but the reaction of the light itself is different depending on what switch I have in there. Some orange ones I got from somewhere I can’t remember would only let the light turn on in high. The orange light itself was fairly bright for a minute or two then would go very dim and wouldn’t allow the light to come on at all. Strange little guys.

The trits in the clear boot and normal switch works okay for what I am using it for. Nightstand duty. Maybe I will one day mess with a bleeder resistor for it. I have a box full of “I’ll get to it one day” lights that I really need to get to work on.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

alpinewinter
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toddcshoe wrote:
Some orange ones I got from somewhere I can’t remember would only let the light turn on in high. The orange light itself was fairly bright for a minute or two then would go very dim and wouldn’t allow the light to come on at all. Strange little guys.

That’s exactly what my orange switch does. We must have the same one.

gchart, thanks for the tips. I’m waiting for some parts to come in, but I plan to flash this light with a customized firmware. I’ll try to add a resistor while I have it apart.

gchart
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I’ll add… I use the “ring board” (Generation 2) style, seen here. Those use higher resistors, and as such, there’s less current flowing when you use those as opposed to the drop-in style that have the LEDs mounted on the board with the switch.