“REVIEW”: Brinyte T28 Artemis – Hunting Flashlight – 21700 - Zoomable (Fresnel) – G/W/R - Rotary Switch [Pic Heavy]

10 posts / 0 new
Last post
MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5419
Location: Portugal
“REVIEW”: Brinyte T28 Artemis – Hunting Flashlight – 21700 - Zoomable (Fresnel) – G/W/R - Rotary Switch [Pic Heavy]

Hi BLF,

This my review of the Brinyte T28 Artemis! The flashlight (+ accessories) was sent by Brinyte for review, with no other compensation.
This said, my review will try to show what this flashlight is capable of, “the goods and the bads”, as honest as I am!!

BTW, I answered to this “invitation” made by Brinyte here on BLF: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70112

Besides that thread, I only found references to this flashlight, here on the forum, on this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70397

Online, there are some reviews:
TLF: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/review-brinyte-t28-artemis-ja... (German)
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oUIefIbrZ4 (Portuguese-Portugal)

As far as I perceived, this flashlight will be presented in the IWA 2020:
https://www.iwa.info/en/ausstellerprodukte/iwa20/product-10253224/brinyt...

This is Brinyte website, but no information is found on this flashlight yet, despite some photos are already there: http://www.brinyte.com/

————————————————————————————

Just an historical note before the review. Artemis was, in the Greek mythology, the Goddess of Hunt and Wilderness. Therefore, the invocation of this name for this “hunting flashlight”.
Some more info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artemis

————————————————————————————
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Body Colour: Black
Material: Aluminium
Emitters: 1 XP-E2 Green – 1 XP-L HI White – 1 XP-E2 Red
Lens: Plastic Fresnel Lens
Battery: 21700
Switch: Tail Rotary/Stepless dimmer Switch
Reverse Polarity Protection: Yes (tested the flashlight with the battery reversed inside and it didn’t get hot! I didn’t turn the flashlight ON during this process!)

Non stated information:
Max runtime: ???
Max beam distance: ???
Max output: ???
Candela: ???
Waterproofness: ???
Impact resistance: ???
Low Voltage Warning: ???

NOTE: I didn’t perform tests to provide any valuable information about these “non-stated” parameters!

————————————————————————————

FLASHLIGHT & ACCESSORIES

The Brinyte T28 Artemis arrived packed in an unbranded cardboard box. Inside, there is protective foam to prevent damages during shipping time. The flashlight and remote switch were inside bubble plastic bags also for protective purposes.

And what did I found in the box? The Brinyte T28 Artemis flashlight, a USB to USB-C cable, a remote switch, a 21700 USB-C rechargeable battery.
The package did not include more accessories, nor a User Manual, nor other information about the flashlight or its use.


THE FLASHLIGHT
What can be said about the T28 Artemis flashlight?
It is a “twisty-zooming-tricolour-illumination-stepless-dimming- hunting-flashlight”! Now let’s deconstruct this! Wink

This is a well made and well machined flashlight, with good and shiny anodizing. About this, this seems to be some hard anodizing process as the flashlight handles scratches very well. I tried to scratch it with a knife and other tools and it is barely perceptible on the body.

Despite this, the shiny anodizing is somehow slippery, specially if your hands are very dry or very wet. There are no substantial grooves or knurling to provide a good grip in “extreme conditions”. However, this is supposed to be a hunting flashlight, to be mounted in a riffle or other hunting weapon.

The flashlight shape provides a good feeling in the hand and provides a good operation both when switching LEDs through the incorporated pad, and when rotating the head to zoom in/out.

About engravings, on the one side, there is the model name, and on the other the Brinyte logo and website.

There are also 2 smaller engravings on the head: the serial number and the indication “sample not for sale”.

From the top we see a pad that enables to alternate between the 3 Leds: Green (Left), White (Middle) and Red (Right). This can be operated with a single finger (ex: thumb) when the flashlight is held in the hand, or thumb/index/middle finger in case it is mounted on a riffle.

On the back of this pad, there is a hole which I believe can be the place where the head and battery tube are joint, through and kind of hexagonal screw. I don’t have hexagonal keys this small so I wasn’t able to open it and prove this hypothesis.

About the zooming process, it is a twist zoom, and the flashlight can be operated single or double handed. The inner threads are smooth and lubricated well enough to allow single hand operation. However, it will be easier to use both hands.
The rotating part is above the “switching pad” and dislocates up and down on, increasing the length of the flashlight when zoomed in.

Let’s take a better look into the head. This flashlight, unlike other zoomable flashlights, doesn’t have an aespheric lens. Instead, it has a Fresnel lens, made of plastic or some kind or acrylic. As I don’t know much about these lens, I will not say much about those. There’s a short thread wherea debate was started: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54694, and an old thread with some Fresnel lenses tests: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24971 .

About the Fresnel lens, as can be noticed in the photos, one part is flat (towards the interior of the head) and the other has the concentric annular sections (towards the outside of the head). (See this Wikipedia article for more info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresnel_lens) .

The head is composed by the bezel, an o-ring that sits in a groove between the bezel and the lens, the Fresnel lens itself and another o-ring that sits on a groove in the head, below the lens.

Below these we find a screwed-in metal black gasket with a “wave” pattern. It is held in place by 4 screws.

And below this gasket we find our 3 leds (XP-E2 Green ; XP-L HI Cool White ; XP-E2 Red) on a rectangular copper MCPCB with at least 14mm thickness. The MCPCB has 4 wires soldered and it sits on a moving platform “activated” by the already mentioned pad. The Leds/colour will be selected according to ones preference. However, to pass from Red to Green or vice-versa (when ON), we always need to go through the White LED, as it is in the middle.

Now taking a look at the tube and tail switch! The tube /body has some grooves in the top and bottom and also some grooved shapes on both “sides”. Despite this, the grip doesn’t improve much when handling the flashlight.

Through the end of the tube we can see the driver spring and that there is a screw holding it in place.

The tail switch is the “official” second part of this flashlight, once the head doesn’t come out without a special key.
In the tail we find 2 lanyard holes and a rotary switch that has a hole to mark the beginning and the end of the rotation. This hole is not on the top, but on the side.
The tail also has some knurling that doesn’t affect grip. The threads of the tail square and well machined, non-anodized (which hinders physical lock out), and there is an o-ring. They arrived slightly lubricated but they perform very well due to their shape.
The spring is thick and it is “protected” by some plastic walls to prevent short circuits. I wasn’t able to dismantle the tail cap, but I also think it is better not to do that due to the type of switch it has!!!

Please note that the walls around the switch are different. The one in the left is inclined and marks the beginning of the rotation (lowest output level), while the one in the right is “vertical” and marks side on the end of the rotation (highest output level). Despite this asymmetry, the flashlight tailstands.

There is also a LED (green) to signalize when the flashlight is ON.

About the dimensions and weight, I forgot to take photos of the “measurement”. However, when “zoomed out”, the flashlight measures 18cm and when “zoomed in” it measures around 19,5cm.

Here’s what’s going on about the weight. The battery is the one that came included in the pack and that I will show below.

——-///——-///——-///——-
The ACCESSORIES

As mentioned above, this flashlight arrived with 3 accessories: USB cable, a 21700 battery and Remote Switch!

USB to USB-C Cable
It has 1m length and is made of some tissue material. I have no means to verify if it allows fast charging , but I already used it to charge the included flashlight and had no issues with it.

Battery
This package also contained a battery.
This is a Brinyte branded 21700 5000mAh 3.6V 18Wh USB-C rechargeable battery. On the top it has a led that glows red when charging and blue when charged. It is a protected and long battery, longer than the Wuben 21700 battery I have.
NOTE: After charging it with the included USB cable for at least 2 times, the final voltage reading I got was 4.18V (measured with multimeter, as I don’t have a charger that takes these bigger batteries).

Remote Switch
For those people that want to use this flashlight mounted on a riffle or other weapon, the remote switch can be a very useful accessory. The “wire” of the remote switch can be stretched till around 1m, what is probably more than enough for a weapon mount.

The switch has 3 buttons, one of ON/OFF, one for + brightness and one for – brightness. The shape of the threads is similar to the normal tailcap. Behind the buttons there is velcrotape that can be glued into the weapon to keep the switch in the right place.
Similarly to the normal tailcap, the remote switch doesn’t allow physical lockout.

Some more details about the use of the remote switch will be presented in the User Interface part .

Here’s the flashlight with the remote switch! (and I used a “mounter” from the Odepro KL52, that is not the perfect fit but helped on this exemplification)

————————————————————————————
+USER INTERFACE +
The Brinyte T28 Artemis flashlight User Interface is quite simple. However, using it with the rotary tail switch or with the remote switch is different, so I explain how it is operated in both situations.

One thing that must be said before the explanation, it that this flashlight has around 34 to 36 brightness levels. I cannote be precise in this number, but let’s assume it has 34 brightness levels that you can choose through the different devices (rotary or buttons).

ROTARY Switch (normal Tailcap)
- From OFF, Press and hold the round switch around 2.5 seconds to turn the flashlight ON.
- From ON, Click the round switch to turn the flashlight OFF.
- When ON, rotate the switch to increase or diminish brightness. The rotation from – to + is clockwise .

Before turning the flashlight ON, you can determine if you want it to turn ON in the lowest, the highest or somewhere in a middle brightness level by simply rotating the round tail switch towards the beginning or the end of the cycle.
If looking to the tailcap from above , the lowest level sits right below the indication LED, while the highest level sits above the LED (after a clockwise rotation).

Of course, you can do this operation for any of the chosen LEDs (G / W / R)-

REMOTE Switch
- From OFF, click the middle button (power) to turn the flashlight ON (see NOTE 1)
- From ON, click the middle button (power) to turn the flashlight OFF.
- When ON, click the – and +buttons to increase and diminish brightness.

When using the remote switch, after being in the brightest level, you can click the – button and count from there to the lowest level and count around 34 brightness levels (at least with the battery almost full…)

NOTE 1: After some tests, I don’t have an accurate conclusion about the level in which the remote switch will start to operate after installation. Sometimes it starts on the brightest level, other times it starts where it stopped in the last time it was used (even after using the normal tail switch meanwhile). So, in case you want/ need to be discrete, install it before going on a hunt Silly

In any cases, there are NO STROBES or blinky modes, and there are no multiple clicks or quick rotations for turbo, or blinkies!

It is a simple and “colourful” UI Wink

————————————————————————————
SIZE COMPARISON

With some flashlights of my collection Wink
Vs 21700 Battery

Vs 2 small zoomies (SK68 clone and OTR 13)

Vs FW3A and FW1A

Vs Wuben TO50R

Vs Zanflare F1 and Convoy S2+

Vs 2 Livarnolux Zoomies

Vs Wuben T70 (2× 26650 version)

Vs Odepro KL52 (normal and zoomed in)

————————————————————————————
BEAMSHOTS
I made some… a lot of photos with this flashlight to show what it does, mostly outdoor, as it is supposed to be a hunting flashlight. I tried to check its longer range on the 3 LEDS.

Before the photos, here are some “impressions”.
Zoomed out – Lowest brightness = illumination at 5m with good visibility
Zoomed in – Lowest brightness = illumination at 10m with good visibility, but narrow vision field of course
Zoomed out – Highest brightness = illumination at 30-40m with some visibility, mainly in the ground areas where the beam intersects with the floor.
Zoomed in – Highest brightness = illumination at 150m with good visibility, but narrow vision field of course . The flashlight range is above 200m with no issues, but at that distance it will only be worthy if you have a scope or binoculars

PWM:
It has PWM on all brightness levels. Under a camera, it is more visible on the highest modes.
LOWEST

HIGHEST

Light under the bezel

Beam Pattern
With the White LED, you’ll notice some rainbow on the edge of the beam.
Also, when zoomed out there will be some outer rings and a stranger star shape.
When zoomed in, the concentric rings will appear and are noticeable specially with the brightest levels ON.

Zoomed Out – Parallel to the wall
LOWEST

HIGHEST

——-///——-///——-///——-
Zoomed Out – Perpendicular to the wall (10-20 cm)
LOWEST

HIGHEST

——-///——-///——-///——-
Zoomed In – Perpendicular to the wall

LOWEST

HIGHEST

——-///——-///——-///——-
INDOOR BEAMSHOTs

Zoomed OUT

Zoomed IN

——-///——-///——-///——-
OUTOOR BEAMSHOTs
Daylight Scenario

ZOOMED OUT
5-10m

10-20m

25-30m

50m

ZOOMED IN

40m

60m

95m

95m (in the opposite direction, before dark)

180m

200m

Beam Comparison with the Odepro KL52

Left – BrinyteT28 Artemis >>>> Right – Odepro KL52 (XP-L Hi and BLF A6 driver)

”Hunting” Cats
These are some photos with animals (cats) around, just to see the effect of the light in the eyes. Of course, these are not preys! And no animal was hurt during this footage Big Smile Well…they were fighting each other in kind ways, but… Silly

————————————————————————————
OVERALL APPRECIATION
Time for some general considerations about the Brinyte T28 Artemis!

What do I like?
1 – Overall construction! This is a flashlight made to last, at least in what concerns body construction and anodizing. It is robust and well made. Despite I didn’t test it on a firearm, it seems to be reliable and to handle shock and recoil.

2 – The switching led pad. Unlike other zoomable flashlights suitable for hunting, the T28 Artemis doesn’t work with removable pills, but with a platform with 3 LEDS, what makes it more versatile to be used in a real situation, once the user can easily alternate between the different type of emitters when performing an activity.

3 – The rotary switch. Well, if you know that I like adjustable output levels by rotating (like on the Jetbeam RRT01) and if you know that I like a) to start on the lowest level and b) have the possibility to quickly access turbo, then you know why I like this switch. It is well made, it can be easily controlled and “dialled”, and it has a good diameter to be operated with thumb and index (meaning , it is not super big nor super small).

4 – The possibility to use the zooming mechanism with one hand. Well, I prefer push-pull zoomable flashlights, as they are easier to operate. However, for a hunting weapon, maybe a twist zoomable flashlight is better to handle the recoil without losing the focus. The T28 Artemis has a good zooming mechanism, very smooth and lubricated that allows single hand operation, unlike the Odepro KL52 flashlight (where the tail has to be pushed/pulled while twisted to zoom in /out). This is a good option in my perspective.

5 – It brings a built-in rechargeable battery. We all have personal preferences regarding charging batteries. Personally I prefer to charge mine on a charger, but I don’t have one (yet) that takes this big cell, so it is good that it can be recharged through a USB-C cable. Probably it would be better to charge it into the flashlight, as it could (probably) still be used at the same time. But without that option, and bearing in mind that even in a hunting situation one can take a powerbank to the “wilderness”, it is nice to have such an option.

6 – No Strobes or blinky modes! Well, that’s it Big Smile

——-///——-///——-///——-
What can be improved, in my opinion?
Although this is a nice flashlight there are some things that can be improved!

1 – Include a User Manual. It would be interesting to have some more information about this flashlight and its use, namely: runtimes, outputs, waterproofness, polarity protection, low voltage protection… A

2 – Include spare o-rings. Despite most of us have gazillions of o-rings laying around, for someone that is not a flashaholic and that buys this light for hunting purposes, it will be nice to have some spare o-rings, especially because this light a) only opens through the tail to take the battery out to be charged, and b) because there is a great possibility to alternate many times between the normal tail switch and the remote switch.

3 – Adding a mark in the top of the rotary switch. Despite there is a hole in the side wall or the switch, for someone operating it in a “tactical” way, it is not possible to see where that hole is, risking to light it up on the opposite brightness level. Of course, we can add our own mark (tape, GTD tape, etc) but it would be nice to have it from factory.

4 – Less time to turn the flashlight ON. In my opinion this would be crucial! Using the normal (rotary) switch, the flashlight takes too long to be activated. In any situation this is not good, so the 2.5seconds should be only 1 click to turn ON (as it is to turn OFF).

5 – Rattling on the LED platform. I guess this probably comes with the territory, but the moving LED platform, when in the middle (White Led), rattles a little bit. While pushed to the right or left, no significant rattling, but in the middle yes. Maybe Brinyte can come up with some mechanism to keep the platform more stable without rattling. In a hunt situation, the smallest noise can take the preys away, right?…

6 – Include fire weapon mounting accessories. I am not a hunter and I don’t need those accessories, but this flashlight should probably have a mounting kit. I used the Odepro accessories, but they are not suitable for this flashlight has it is thinner than the KL52. Therefore, and even knowing that this is testing sample, Brinyte should think of this option to hunters.

7 – The beam artifacts. Well, this is not a High CRI Super Perfect Beam flashlight, but at some point the concentric rings in the beam (specially when zoomed in) may be a distraction for the users. This has to do with the Fresnel lens used, of course, despite an aespheric lens also produces artifacts black metal gasket used under the Fresnel optic.. Maybe this option can be re-thought to improve the beam quality. BTW, the Fresnel lens accumulates more dust and is harder to clean than an aspherical lens Oops

————————————————————————————


This said, the review is over! Feel free to ask questions or comment on this Wink
Best regards Beer

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Edited by: MascaratumB on 12/31/2019 - 12:37
Brinyte2018
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 23 hours ago
Joined: 04/08/2018 - 03:22
Posts: 332

Many thanks for your great reviews and suggestions.^^ Your suggestions will be fed back to our company as soon as possible^^

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5419
Location: Portugal

After publishing the review I received some feedback from Brinyte’s representative (Kitty) about the aspects I mentioned that could be improved.
As I think it is fair to share them with public, please find them quoted below!

Quote:
1 – Include a User Manual. / 2 – Include spare o-rings. yes, there will be a user manual and spare O-rings for the final sales kit.

3 – Adding a mark in the top of the rotary switch. Good ideas

4 – Less time to turn the flashlight ON. About this design, some customers said that the tail switch can be turned on accidentally, so we try to design the long press to turn on the flashlight.

5 – Rattling on the LED platform. Got it. we will try to improve.

6 – Include fire weapon mounting accessories. It will be fed back to our company.

7 – The beam artifacts. Got it.

I am sharing this with you mainly because of some reasons:
1) receiveing a flashlight for review, for me, is something serious. It can be “free”, but I will spend days “testing” it (the best I can), taking and uploading photos, writing the review, and going beyond the info that the user manual and specifications can indicate. So, I think that it is important to give that to the community so that people know what to expect when buying a flashlight.

2) it is important, at least for me, to get feedback from a company/manufacturer after the review is published. It doesn’t mean that they will take everything into account and change everything as I wanted/suggestested to, but it is important to know that our tests (BLF community) are important to help improving flashlights in some way.

3) despite gettting “free” flashlights, I always respect the work put on them by engineers, designers, assembly lines’ workers, marketeers, etc. So, doing a review of a “free” item is perhaps as demanding as a light bought on our own, specially to be fair with all the work and efforts put on that item, either it is good or not so good as we want/need/expect to be!

This said, thanks again Brinyte for sending this flashlight for review, and I hope you can implement some of the suggestions presented!

Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1445
Location: Ohio, United States

MascaratumB, I will say beam artifacts are likely nearly unavoidable with a fresnel lens. It’s traded for the thin, lightweight lens.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 32 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 557

I totally agree with your comments on reviewing 'free' flashlights.  I find it a challenge but want it to be thorough.

Your reviews are almost epic, very insightful and definitely picturesque!

“twisty-zooming-tricolour-illumination-stepless-dimming- hunting-flashlight” is an outline that you create a heck of a body of writing and exhibits!

Oh, BTW, many thanks for this review. What a gadget!

Cheers and Happy New Year!

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

Jerommel
Jerommel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 13:18
Posts: 6380
Location: the Hague, Netherlands

I have thus far refrained from commenting on this light, but first of all, thank you for the review.

Good thing they didn’t ask me to review it though…

I know and love Brinyte for their famous B158, but this new light is definitely in another league.

A much LOWER league.

What a POS. Facepalm

But, i kind of admire them for pursuing the concept.

But unfortunately the execution sucks…

It’s an ugly light too.

It looks cheap and at least 10 years old, in a bad way.

And why choose a lossy scattering Fresnel lens, while they have the experience with a same diameter pretty awesome plano convex aspheric lens??

In all: WTH were they thinking??

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5419
Location: Portugal
Scallywag wrote:
MascaratumB, I will say beam artifacts are likely nearly unavoidable with a fresnel lens. It’s traded for the thin, lightweight lens.

Yup, It seems to be so! The concentric rings will always produce that, specially when zoomed in . If even with aespheric optics it is difficult not to have them, with Fresnel it will be even more flagrant.

EDIT: the rings are due to the black metal gasket! Please see post #10!

Later today I will try to use the lens of the Odepro KL52 on the T28 Artemis to see how it looks like. Not sure if it will fit, but I’ll check it and see/show the results!

Thanks for reading. Thumbs Up

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:
I totally agree with your comments on reviewing ‘free’ flashlights. I find it a challenge but want it to be thorough.

Your reviews are almost epic, very insightful and definitely picturesque!
“twisty-zooming-tricolour-illumination-stepless-dimming- hunting-flashlight” is an outline that you create a heck of a body of writing and exhibits!

Oh, BTW, many thanks for this review. What a gadget!
Cheers and Happy New Year!

Thanks for reading and for your words Nachtfeuerzeug!! Beer
It is indeed a challenge, both on free and bought flashlights! And when they are free, it seems that we have to struggle even more to be “impartial” and objective than when we buy a light we want! I try to analyse, use and show the product as it is, not being a “boy” from this or that manufacturer.

Ahah, picturesque is a kind “definition” Wink Well, we sometimeshave to be fancy when showing something! There are excellent reviewers here in the forum that have inspired me, so a major credit to them! I only try to show the more visible and hidden aspects of the lights to let people know them!!

That “phrase”…well, it defines this light in a line Smile It is easier to say it in english than in my own language Silly
Have a Happy New Year too Wink

Jerommel wrote:
I have thus far refrained from commenting on this light, but first of all, thank you for the review.

Good thing they didn’t ask me to review it though…

I know and love Brinyte for their famous B158, but this new light is definitely in another league.

much LOWER league.

What a POS. Facepalm

But, i kind of admire them for pursuing the concept.

But unfortunately the execution sucks…

It’s an ugly light too.

It looks cheap and at least 10 years old, in a bad way.

And why choose a lossy scattering Fresnel lens, while they have the experience with a same diameter pretty awesome plano convex aspheric lens??

In all: WTH were they thinking??

Thanks for reading and for your comments Jerommel! Thumbs Up
Hum, I guess this light and the B158 are different lights, and can only be compared in some parameters. As I did with the KL52 (that is more or less the B158).

It has advantages (not having to take the pills out to change the LED colour, having adjustable brightness, not having strobes or blinkies, one hand zooming possibility, 21700 battery).
It has similarities (good construction, great anodizing, remote switch).
It has disadvantages (slippery anodizing, no grooves or protuberances for a better grip, Fresnel lens with artifacts production specially when zoomed in, slight rattling inside due to the LEDs platform).

EDIT: the rings are due to the black metal gasket! Please see post #10!

Also, note that this is a sample version, not the “expected” full kit that these kind of lights normally bring (weapon mounts, and so on).

I respect your point of view and I will not defend this light or the manufacturer, but apart from the lens, I wouldn’t call this light cheap. Maybe not the prettiest, though Wink

As I mentioned above, I will try to use the aespheric optic on this one a see how it looks ! Can’t promise it fits or works well though Silly

Thanks again for your comments!

To all of you people, have a Nice 2020! Party

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Jerommel
Jerommel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 days ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 13:18
Posts: 6380
Location: the Hague, Netherlands

Well, yes, it’s admirable they try to make selectable LEDs by moving them into position, but when it rattles, i think you know enough about the thermal path too…

But the stock B158 / B158B had their problems and disadvantages too.
The ‘floating’ driver for example… Facepalm
But the overall design was very good.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5419
Location: Portugal

Jerommel wrote:
Well, yes, it’s admirable they try to make selectable LEDs by moving them into position, but when it rattles, i think you know enough about the thermal path too…

But the stock B158 / B158B had their problems and disadvantages too.
The ‘floating’ driver for example… Facepalm
But the overall design was very good.

Hum, true, the thermal path between the platform and the “head” is probably not the best! And there are some weaknesses on the moving mechanism manifested in the rattling.

I guess making the shelf thicker would improve the thermal dissipation a bit in that case.
Also, maybe redesigning the moving mechanism can improve in that!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5419
Location: Portugal

I made a mistake and I apologize for leading the readers and eventually Brinyte to believe that that concentric rings created were due to the Fresnel optic!

They are not! They are due to the black metal gasket sitting under the Fresnel optic.

How did I noticed this? Because I was trying to put the aespheric lens of the Odepro KL52 flashlight into the head of the T28 Artemis, and I tried to zoom in/out and the concentric rings were still there.

SO, my suggestion now goes to a “non-waved” black metal gasket. A smooth one will probably (probably!) avoid the concentric rings on the zoomed in beam!

About swapping lens to test the T28 with an aespheric optic, it will not be feasible with the materials I have.
Note that the difference of thickness doesn’t allow the bezel of the T28 to screw in Oops

Maybe a thinner lens would fit. About the diameter, the Fresnel optic is just 1 or 2 mm smaller than the aespheric, so they fit in diameter.

EDIT: Post #1 and replies above mentioning the “supposed” Fresnel lens artifacts corrected/edited.

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2