[H17A] Don’t blow my 20

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Hank33
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[H17A] Don’t blow my 20

I ordered a H17A 17 mm driver. Driver mentions to use it with XHP50.2 or SST40. If I use this driver for an SST-20J4 HB4 (3000k), will the SST-20 survive?

'The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invincible.'

contactcr
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If you spring bypass both ends and use a really high drain battery maybe, otherwise probably not. This is one of those things that’s highly dependent on overall resistance of the rest of your build.

Hank33
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Yeah I think I’ll do all those hacks but I think it sounds like I better not try it? Got a S2+ coming from Kaidomain.

'The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invincible.'

contactcr
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Hank33 wrote:
Yeah I think I’ll do all those hacks but I think it sounds like I better not try it? Got a S2+ coming from Kaidomain.

If you use a GA battery or similar (the true 3500mAh rated ones) you will be fine. A fully charged VTC6 would not be recommended on such a build.

Hank33
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Ok nice and I have 2 30Q’s and one 35E coming. Crown

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SK1LL
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don’t think that 35E would pop the SST-20 but looks like a close call.

- Paul

Hank33
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Living on the edge…

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good copper dtp mcpcb?
good host with thick shelf?
you might pull it off.

Hank33
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So what I’m sensing now is that if I follow the above parameters for the build, then the led might burn out? Basically just build it and hope for the best scenario I guess??

'The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invincible.'

Jerommel
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You’d better get a proper constant current (current regulated / current limiting) driver for a single relatively small low Vf LED like the SST-20.

The LD-25 from Simon / Convoy (unfortunately discontinued at Fasttech) does 3 Amperes, which is a nice amount of maximum current for the SST-20.

Those FET DD drivers are more suited for high Vf LEDs like XP-L (HI) or for multiple LEDs (so that the internal resistance of the battery and the electrical path from battery to LED provides the resistance as to not smoke your quad low Vf LEDs.)

id30209
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If you like H17F then just remove FEt by desoldering it. That’s what i did running triple 219B.

That way you convert H17F to Prometheus Icarus driver. 
You’ll have 3A max output

Happy New Year

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

Hank33
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My mole hill’s becoming a mountain now Big Smile

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id30209 wrote:

If you like H17F then just remove FEt by desoldering it. That’s what i did running triple 219B.


That way you convert H17F to Prometheus Icarus driver. 
You’ll have 3A max output


Happy New Year


This doesn’t make sense to me.

But a happy new year to you too. Smile

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Jerommel wrote:
This doesn't make sense to me. But a happy new year to you too. :)

 

Sorry, working. Was just stop by. I only had H17F on hands and didn’t wanted to overdrive tiny 219B so i have just removed fet.

SST20 can be used safely with fet if heatsink is ok but if OP is concerned about safety then just desolder little devil.

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

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id30209 wrote:

Jerommel wrote:
This doesn’t make sense to me. But a happy new year to you too. Smile

 


Sorry, working. Was just stop by. I only had H17F on hands and didn’t wanted to overdrive tiny 219B so i have just removed fet.


SST20 can be used safely with fet if heatsink is ok but if OP is concerned about safety then just desolder little devil.


You removed and bypassed it, i assume.
Without it you only have one AMC7135 (= 350mA)

I would never drive 219B or 219C with more than 2.5 Amperes.
They don’t like it and it’s not worth the few extra Lumen.
But you must have used a low drain battery or have a less than optimal electrical path.

contactcr
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H17A – some questionable Kaidomain FET

H17F – good FET+N DrJones driver

Bottom line. Run the SST20 with your cheap driver and 35E and don’t worry about it.

id30209
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Jerommel wrote:
You removed and bypassed it, i assume. Without it you only have one AMC7135 (= 350mA) I would never drive 219B or 219C with more than 2.5 Amperes. They don't like it and it's not worth the few extra Lumen. But you must have used a low drain battery or have a less than optimal electrical path.

 

Got home at last and checked again my build.

Nope i haven’t bypassed it at all. Just desoldered FET and voila.

 

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

Jerommel
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But it’s a FET + 1 (1x AMC 7135) isn’t it?

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Jerommel wrote:
But it's a FET + 1 (1x AMC 7135) isn't it?

To be honest, no idea. I’m not so in elec data and info. I’m more of a handy man. If it works it works if not, test another one. Tana advised me he was doing it in Surefire mods with Nichia emitters so i gave it a shot. 
and it worked.

I’ll post pics tomorrow.

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

id30209
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H17

 

H17 without F

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

Hank33
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Oh man I think something funky is going on!. But seriously, I just saw the latest update to my post above a couple of hours ago. Then when I arrived home, my Kaidomain orders including the H17A was sitting in the mailbox!

'The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invincible.'