Alpg88 2019 Old-Lumens Challenge Entry, machine category

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alpg88
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Joshk wrote:
Would 20“wide x 19“deep be enough?

very good question, but i can’t say for sure unless i measure, and allow some room for loading filament, and moving parts.

gchart
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alpg88 wrote:
core finished, now i’ll have to remove lots of supports.

there was supposed to be a sign, on the back of it, it showed pretty clear in slicer, but it came out much worst, i can barely read some words others can’t read at all,


Looks like the text on the back got lost in the layer changes. With that slant, it looks like a challenging area for text. Adaptive layer height might have helped a little bit (that is, if you didn’t use it), but it probably wouldn’t have been enough to address that. Overall, looks great. Can’t wait to see it with the supports removed.
alpg88
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yep, looks like exactly what happened, layers change. next time i’ll either use larger letters, or do sign on flat parts, actually sides got their pattern printed nicely, and it was on vertical surface.

as i remove supports, some parts of light are not looking that great, i’ll see what i can do about that, but i want to avoid acetone fume smoothing, in theory it sounds great and all, but in reality it makes parts smooth as mirror, and they are too prone to scratching, making scratches too visible, it is good for items that you do not use, or not doing anything with them. just have then on a shelf for display, but the good news is most of those places with bad finish, are internal. will take a pic when i remove all the supports.

Joshk
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yea for a slightly tilted top like that layers will be very visible. I imagine your slicer could be set to change to thin layers near the top. But it’s just a tough place to put text.

alpg88
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all printed parts are done, fit is very good, only 1 part inside needs some trimming. the switch cover, some others still have a bit of brim.

MtnDon
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Smile Can’t wait to it assembled.
MRsDNF
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That printing looks orsm. Nice work.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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MRsDNF wrote:
That printing looks orsm. Nice work.

thanks man, but it doesn’t compare to your bullds, not even close,

Lexel
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looking on your parts list I think I see drivers with tons of AMCs, they run quite hot even in a metal tube light, in a plastic light you will see massive thermal throttle of them

alpg88
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you mean they will output less than 350ma?

alpg88
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had to reprint the head due to fitting issue, several times, at the end i still had to do some sanding in the final print, i ran out of black abs, so head spacer will be red.

as you see i made a channel for o’rings around led opening.

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Looking great Smile

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OL Contest 2019

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MRsDNF
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MascaratumB wrote:
Looking great Smile

Yep. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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minor setback, 2 leds destroyed, color leds are reflown on sinkpad stars, 1.6mm iirc, triple from kaidomain was 1mm, so i had to cut legs of the tir, so it presses against the mcpcb, guess i cut them too short, domes embedded into the lens and came off taking phosphorus with them. will have to order triples from mtn electronic, they are mounted on noctogons, which are 1,6mm as well, iirc. so now since both pairs are same hight i will have to redesign the head spacer, again, but this time i will eliminate the “window” over the optics. ledil triples unlike carclo has a small ledge, where i will place an o ring, and headspacer will be pushing against it, sealing it from outside, as well as pressing it firm against a heatsink.

alpg88
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finished the head, well almost, still need to glue a thermal switch, waiting for a thermal epoxy to come in, but there is something strange going on, i wanted to see how bright it is from 1 18650 in dd, so i hooked up protected panasonic, to 6x xpg3 wired in parallel, (btw since i had to order new triples that had a thicker star, i had to completely redesign the head, i eliminated the need for outside glass\window . so after hooking up 1 cell. the leds blinked and went out, it happened every time i connected the cell, so at first i thought the leds are sorted, prbly pinched a wire or something, so i checked continuity, there is none, so leds aren’t shorted,. so i hooked my dmm, and realized the pcb brakes the circuit on overcurrent. so i wanted to measure how much current 6 xpg3 pull, my dmm went OL, so it was over 10A. so then i figured i’ll wire a driver now, so i wired several different liner drivers, and in all cases results were the same, OL, which can not really be true, no way a 4amc driver can pull over 10A from a cell, i did check several times if i did not wire them DD by mistake, i know it is physically impossible, so i think my dmm is lying. or it’s battery is low, and it gives faulty reading, will try a different one tonight, and will to replace battery first.

that aluminum tape covers a hole where thermal switch will go,

G0OSE
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Looking good! Interesting watching how it’s coming along and I really like the design, it looks like some movie studio commissioned it for a sci-fi!

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Check your AMC hookup with the diagram I drew on the post-it note in this OP: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71372

gchart
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If you keep running into issues, post a picture of your electronics and we’ll see if anything can be visually diagnosed.

alpg88
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will sure do if i do not figure what is wrong tonight, i kinda can believe, that 6 xpg3 can pull enough current to trip a 18650 pcb, but 10+ amps draw with several different drivers is definitely not right.

MRsDNF
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It sounds like a short somewhere if it is drawing over 10 amps.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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that is what i thought at first, but no, continuity test showed no short. i hope it is my dmm that is the issue, will test tonight, i already borrowed another dmm, and have spare batteries.

leds do work, i run them off an unprotected cell and they light up and stay lit. protected cell however trips the pcb. but that i can believe, 6 leds, that are less than 3v, powered directly by a healthy cell that is at about 4v can pull over 6A which is what pcb in the cell is approx. rated at. but 10A with several different drivers, and cells, idk, some cells i tried cannot physically put out 10a.

alpg88
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the problem was my DMM’s battery, i replaced it and no more OL. on a half drained cell, or more, i had 4,5, at 3.7v under load, it took about 30-40min to get to 3v. since a poster before mentioned about temp, i ran leds to see how hot it’ll get, well it did not, it was pretty warm but not too hot. granted the cell was not fully charged, but i have no doubts even with fresh cell, 10-15W will not heat up the heatsink to a dangerous numbers. 9A however will, and pretty fast. so with no 9A driver no need for thermal switch,

originally i was gonna install 2 drivers, 4,5 and 9A. when the heatsink would get too hot a thermal switch would shut off either both drivers, or just 9A driver. even if both drivers would be off, i would still have white light in rgbw group, but only about 3W. or if i only wire 9A driver to the thermal switch, i’d have 4,5A. but now i’m thinking to abandon that plan, and instead use a driver that maxes out at 3.5A. i have drivers made by Quadrupel. they are D10 drivers, fet+1 iirc, with anduril UI. the driver fits under a 16mm switch boot just right, only few mm thick, has many different modes. has built in switch, all i need to do, is design and print a housing for the switch boot and a driver, and install it where i originally wanted to install a DT switch, so i will have 1 DT switch, and 1 pushbutton. which also has leds to light up the boot.

here is a pic i took while testing, caught a moment when current and voltage matched, lol

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Smile Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

NeutralFan
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Looking forward to see how it all comes together alpg88!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

alpg88
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switch\driver housing is done, top DT switch will turn power to rgbw driver and d10 driver, push button controls d10 driver.

if everything goes smooth i may finish it this weekend.

MtnDon
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Cool! Thumbs Up

MRsDNF
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Nice contrasting colours alpg88. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

alpg88
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MtnDon
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Wow! That looks very nice. Very neat appearing.

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