Tacklife LFL3A $8.99

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Lightbringer
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Both cells rang in at ~5300mAH at 1A in my Opus. Not bad.

Seems pretty heavyweight, not like it’s gonna melt down if left on high unattended.

Slap on some diffusion film, make it a flooder for a good inside-light (prowling around the basement/attic, etc.), and have fun.

The cell itself is worth a few bux, easily, so the cost of the big bruiser of a light itself for the leftover cost is absolutely worth it. Who cares about a wonky UI if it’d be a house light? Just click a few times to get the mode you want.

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pennzy
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What he said^. Can’t all be Anduril.

Pete7874
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How many lumens (roughly) is the low mode?

ttylamg
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if one were to dedome this, which route would you guys take? chemical or heat and lift? I’ll bet the ring effect can be changed by dedome also.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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hank
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Price: $11.99

Nope, too popular.

Lightbringer
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I can’t find my meter Facepalm , but has anyone measured cell voltage when the charging light just goes green, and then when it sits a while, ostensibly still charging? Is what was reported the norm, or just a fluke(haha)?

Big honkin’ 26650s only let me fit 2 in my Opus, so can’t even check voltage on a 3rd cell that way (got the cells on refresh mode, so that’s 3 up’n‘downs, and it’s still going).

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SIGShooter
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Lightbringer wrote:
I can’t find my meter Facepalm , but has anyone measured cell voltage when the charging light just goes green, and then when it sits a while, ostensibly still charging? Is what was reported the norm, or just a fluke(haha)?

Big honkin’ 26650s only let me fit 2 in my Opus, so can’t even check voltage on a 3rd cell that way (got the cells on refresh mode, so that’s 3 up’n‘downs, and it’s still going).

Mine was at 4.0v when the light turned green. When I left it on afterwards it was at 4.21v when it finished charging.

9mm/40cal/45cal bullets and large/small pistol primers available for sale in San Francisco Bay area

pennzy
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Both times I charged the cell it took 3 additional hours after turning green to reach 4.21.

Lightbringer
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Yeah, I forgot who reported that before… LOL

I unplugged mine shortly after it went green and figured I’d check it, and then… where’s my meter?!? Flat Stare

I’ll have to wait ‘til the other cells finish refreshing. Over 5300 is pretty good. Party

 

One thing I do like quite a bit are the green LEDs. They’re that nice emerald green vs the typische yellow-green everyone and his grandmother uses for “green”. I noticed those deep-green LEDs on Novabuses (side-exit door indicator), and really like that shade.

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flightless22
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ttylamg wrote:
if one were to dedome this, which route would you guys take? chemical or heat and lift? I’ll bet the ring effect can be changed by dedome also.

The gas method is easier but you haven’t thought of the smell.

AmirBagatelle wrote:
I’ve dedomed a number of LED’s by accident, usually by trying to use an optic without an optic holder (the optic slid sideways). In every case the LED still worked normally.

That’s the way I’ve done it LOL Facepalm

Lightbringer
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pennzy wrote:
Both times I charged the cell it took 3 additional hours after turning green to reach 4.21.

Awesome, then. Nice way to make sure the cells don’t get overstuffed; just yank the plug when the light first goes green.

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Lightbringer
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flightless22 wrote:
The gas method is easier but you haven’t thought of the smell.

MEK or xylene works just as well, and you don’t get the nasty stank that gasoline leaves.

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Pete7874
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hank wrote:
Price: $11.99

Nope, too popular.


Looks like it dropped to $10.99 now.
Scientist
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So anybody know what emitter is in there?

mbp
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Scientist wrote:
So anybody know what emitter is in there?

Appears to be a dome-on XP-L HD to me, tint is in the 5000k-ish range.

dorpmuller
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I sprung for two of these, I couldn't resist at that price. 

Anyone figure out any mod to the driver for > output? Seems as if the emitter could be driven harder for more. 

Maybe a change to a factory dedome xp-l or an sst-40? 

Your thoughts?

 

Don't know how they do it... you get a 26650, real glass lens, fairly good looks and the thing is built like a brick shithouse. Brightness is almost identical to my D1 pocket thrower, tint is not nearly as good though, a little greenish. I might try to dedome it with a heat gun and if I screw it up I'll just order another emitter. 

"I am the flashlight king! I can light anything!"

Lightbringer
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It’s a nice thrower, but I went the opposite way, and made mine into an around-the-house light by slapping on some diffusion film.

I got lights with fairly big hotspots, have DF on some smaller lights (gotta crank ‘em up to get decent illumination, though), and this starts off on high and spreads out the light quite nicely now.

That’s a nice hunk o’ glass, though!

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slmjim
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My battery arrived @ 3.61v.,  tested at 5100 & change on a Opus 3100 v2.2.  Great deal for a decent cell plus a good bangaround light.

 

slmjim 

Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.

Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.

dorpmuller
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Welp... I dedomed one emitter with the heat gun but of course that screws up the tint, so I ordered two XP-L hi's from mtn and gonna drop those in. It's worth it.

The slow strobe on this light is perfect for daytime use when walking the dogs and the 26650 feel/size is the most comfortable for me.

Everything disassembles with no hassles and it's worth to note that both springs are thick plus nice and stiff. 

Thanks to the OP! 

"I am the flashlight king! I can light anything!"

ttylamg
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I used gasoline to dedome, it didn’t come off clean after soaking 48 hrs. I was surprised that I didn’t kill the led with my fingernail trying to peel the remaining off. I don’t believe those that said the dome falls off, it must be a rare chance. I am done mucking it for now. the hot spot “seems” brighter with nearly the same tint. But this is all just based on a feeling.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

hank
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Anybody know what “Thermoelectric separation structure” means? Apparently it’s a feature….

Lightbringer
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Whatever it is, you gotta regularly clean it with carburetor fluid.

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4492011
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hank wrote:
Anybody know what “Thermoelectric separation structure” means? Apparently it’s a feature….

I would assume based upon the time frame that it was produced, they are referring to the copper mcpcb, a lot of them were probably aluminum back then.
hank
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Well, sure enough. I could have Googled that:

Thermoelectric Separation Technology of Copper Core PCB
Search domain www.pcbway.com/blog/Engineering_Technical/Thermoelectric_separation_tech...

[quote

wrote:
What is the Thermoelectric Separation Substrate?

The circuit part and the thermal layer part of the substrate are on different circuit layers, and the thermal layer part directly contacts the heat dissipation part of the lamp bead to achieve the best heat dissipation (zero thermal resistance) effect. And the material of the substrate is generally the copper substrate.

pennzy
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Any ideas on how to fix the rings besides DF?

Lightbringer
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If there were a super-low moonlight/firefly mode, you could turn it on and look askew into the reflector and play with the aim ‘til you’d see a bright spot (ie, when a bright ring would hit your pupil), and could then tell if it’s coming from the shelf near the LED, or if it’s a reflection off the bezel, or whatever.

‘Fcourse, being that “low” is painfully bright, you’d just see big green blobs trying it, so…

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