[ Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril + RGB Aux ] - For Sale Now!

440 posts / 0 new
Last post
contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 57 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3436
Location: US

I have already done precisely this but I will elaborate since the combined information will be helpful to others.

In addition to the above:

- The right wire length helps tremendously
- When you feed your wires through consider how they will be attached to the boards so you aren’t crossing them over each other above the PCB (it probably wont fit otherwise)
- If your wire will retain any shape at all consider bending it a little into position so you aren’t trying to juggle tweezers, a clean iron tip, steady hand, etc.
- If you have one use a smaller tip for only the final 4 RBG wires. A big chisel tip or similar will work better for everything else.

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2469
Location: USA
Thumbs Up Beer
Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 33 min 23 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 13392
Location: LI NY

Got 1 set in today - dunno when I'll get a chance to install it, hoping soon! I got 2 FW3A's

gokalpm
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 05/10/2017 - 19:51
Posts: 16

I did my FW3C today, and did a few improvements, took some images.

For the resistors, I ended up using r=330 b=330 and g=680 or 1k. It definitely tooks much better, especially with 1k.

I only had 0804 at hand, so I had to improvise the fit. The green fits sideways, but the blue needs to stay flat to clear the optics. Note that the image below was before I figured this out.

I also twised the ends of the enameled wires differently this time, instead of marking with sharpie. Worked nicely.

Installed sliced dogfarts as I previously mentioned. Absolutely fabulous leds, massively underrated.

antoninuspius
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 11/04/2018 - 19:22
Posts: 33
Location: Roma Antiqua

I installed my Lume1 driver earlier today, I love the idea of a buck/boost for the FW3A, but I have encountered a bit of a problem. I am experiencing visible PWM until level ~20, I am not particularly sensitive to it, but on the very low levels it has an almost candle like flicker.

I am assuming that I received a dud, but I am curious if anyone else is experiencing something similar.

Tldd
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 04/24/2019 - 05:09
Posts: 20

Will buy two once the mi/mo issue is fixed. Great work.

Kapsyd
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/08/2019 - 11:41
Posts: 11
Location: Poland

I’ve recieved my driver 2 days ago and after some playing with it, I want to write something about it.

First issue I encountered was when I tried to solder rgb wires to driver. I ripped one of the solder pads from the board Sad
They are so incredibly delicate, I have some expirience with soldering and never encountered pads so sensitive. Since i never really liked aux led boards, it isn’t that big of a deal for me.

Second issue is extremely strong flickering in lower end of the ramp. It flickers like it’s in candle mode up until I hit ramp level 35-40, which is too bright for a ramp floor. So after puting in this driver, I definetly won’t use my FW3A in “middle of the night toilet run”, unless i want flicker.

Other than that driver works well, especialy the thermal stepdown from top of ramp, which is much better than in factory driver. It doesn’t overshoot or step down too fast like it did with factory driver. There is also obvious improvement in battery life. Overall runtime is about the same, but it is fully stabilized now until deplating battery when cooled. I also feel like pwm of fet channel would be better than just on/off. Fet being just on/off causes turbo step down before flashlight body gets appropriately warm.

Overall it’s good driver but needs improvements, especially in low brightness flicker.
Sorry for all grammar mistakes that I unknowingly made.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 31 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1386
Location: Croatia

Could it be that flickering is related to some bad conntact? Kawiboy would have notice it already... 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4153
Location: California

My Lume1 does not flicker at any brightness setting.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 42 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4225
Location: The Motor City

Firelight2 wrote:
My Lume1 does not flicker at any brightness setting.

Nor the 2 of mine… one in a FW3 and the other in a NovaTac..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2469
Location: USA

antoninuspius wrote:
I installed my Lume1 driver earlier today, I love the idea of a buck/boost for the FW3A, but I have encountered a bit of a problem. I am experiencing visible PWM until level ~20, I am not particularly sensitive to it, but on the very low levels it has an almost candle like flicker.

I am assuming that I received a dud, but I am curious if anyone else is experiencing something similar.

Have you tried a better battery? What’s the resistance of the one you are using?

antoninuspius
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 11/04/2018 - 19:22
Posts: 33
Location: Roma Antiqua

Thanks. I just emailed Neal to see about getting a replacement.

antoninuspius
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 11/04/2018 - 19:22
Posts: 33
Location: Roma Antiqua

I’ve used a few different batteries with the same results. I even took it apart and made sure my solder joints and contacts looked good.

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2469
Location: USA

Probably the driver then. Let us know how the new one works.

Kapsyd
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/08/2019 - 11:41
Posts: 11
Location: Poland

I think i found the source of flickering issue. I decided to take out the driver and clean it with both acetone and IPA.

After cleaning, flickering is still there, but nowhere near as bad as it was. Now it completely stops flickering at 15+ ramp level (it was 35-40 previously). I wonder why it was dirty straight from the mail (I didn’t use flux for soldering) and which component is so sensitive to dirt.

Joshk
Joshk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2015 - 12:12
Posts: 2469
Location: USA

Was your solder ‘rosin core’?

Kapsyd
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/08/2019 - 11:41
Posts: 11
Location: Poland

No, I was deliberately avoiding using any flux, because in past I had other flashlight drivers malfunction just from flux residue.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4153
Location: California

Maybe make sure to also disassemble and clean the tailcap contacts.

I recommend getting some Deoxit Gold for cleaning contacts.

Kapsyd
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/08/2019 - 11:41
Posts: 11
Location: Poland

Tailcap contacts seem to be fine. In my frustration to fix flickering, I already cleaned them and also checked if original driver would work and indeed it was working flawlessly.

Whezzel
Whezzel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 11 hours ago
Joined: 03/29/2019 - 22:15
Posts: 18
Location: Texas

I have 2 of these drivers installed in fw3x lights. Both have a very slight flicker at the lowest setting, but it’s unnoticeable unless I look very close at the light on my white table top.

asdqqq
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 02/19/2020 - 16:53
Posts: 93

Is the moonlight brighter on these than with the stock driver?

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 57 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3436
Location: US

Yes

Quote:
Lowest moon mode is not as low as other 7135 systems – at the moment, it is a little brighter, but still usable. In fact, it is possible to reduce this even further, but the buck-boost goes into a pulse frequency modulated mode to save power / efficiency, and a flicker of about 100+Hz is visible. In fact, at lowest moon mode, a very slight ‘pwm’ of around 1kHz is present. This can all be removed, at the cost of decreased efficiency at low modes, so I think the trade-off is OK. Any higher and output quickly smooths out.
pol77
Offline
Last seen: 22 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 271
Location: London

I would rather have less efficiency to get a smooth, flickerless, sublumen moonlight.

Quadrupel
Quadrupel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2017 - 10:40
Posts: 337
Location: Lithuania

Looks like we need somebody to inspect it with good oscilloscope to see real picture ;))

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 1134
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Curious what loneoceans finds when he receives his.. will be waiting patiently for that info Smile Beer

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 42 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4225
Location: The Motor City

Used my phone camera to capture the PWM

FW3.. Stock Driver NovaTac Lume1… I can’t see flickering in either… I guess I’m not…….“sniff”……. sensitive……. enough Crying maybe I need training… Blushing

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

antoninuspius
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 11/04/2018 - 19:22
Posts: 33
Location: Roma Antiqua

Stock driver is first, Lume1 is second, both shot at 1/4000 shutter speed.

Kapsyd
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/08/2019 - 11:41
Posts: 11
Location: Poland

My FW3A with lume driver looks like this. In real life it doesn’t look like pwm flicker, but more like candle mode. I tried to record a video of that, but even on manual camera settings it doesn’t really show up.

calipsoii
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 03/23/2015 - 11:25
Posts: 18

@Kapsyd One of my older drivers used to flicker in the same manner you’re describing when driven at moonlight lows. To the naked eye it appears to be a “candlelight flutter”. The issue had to do with the switching regulator being driven at such a low current that the voltage changes on the feedback pin weren’t sufficient enough to provide steady output. The sense resistor wasn’t generating enough mV of voltage drop to properly provide a compensation ramp within the regulator, and the result was completely random and sporadic bursts of light that could be considered circuit noise making it to the output.

The resolution would have been to use a larger value sense resistor, but that causes serious thermal issues at high output and lowers the efficiency of the circuit a great deal. As with all engineering, it’s a bit of a balancing act.

kevinm
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 11 hours ago
Joined: 10/10/2011 - 11:38
Posts: 30
Location: Colorado

FIASCO!!! So, I installed the Lume1 board. If your FW3C is a first generation, the board is flat on one edge, so the Lume1 is not a drop in board. Okay, fine. Filed it unit it fit. Also, the solder pads on the triple emitter board are in a different place.

Then, I looked at my stash of wire…mostly 28AWG. Close enough! I used my medium tip Weller soldering station. And of course this didn’t work. Solder everywhere. No problem; I’ll just unsolder the AUX board and get a finer tip. NOPE. Lost two of the VERY small resistors.

Buy the tools first, then build the thing.

On the bright side, my FW3C is not running the new board (minus the fancy AUX LEDs).

Pages