[ Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril + RGB Aux ] - For Sale Now!

441 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 11 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1468
Location: Ohio, United States

loneoceans wrote:

contactcr wrote:

asdqqq wrote:
First attempt failed at the initial step. Couldn’t get the wires to desolder from the mcpcb. So could I potentially solve this with a better soldering iron (all I had laying around was an attachment for a little propane torch), or do I need to unscrew the mcpcb so it’s detached from the shelf?
It's not screwed on. Take tweezers and stick in one of the optic holes to break suction from paste and sit the mcpcb on the screw to prevent it from sitting flush. Put fresh solder on your iron clean it off and you can even put a bit more fresh solder to help it desolder right before. You should feel good about this step or else you will have more trouble resoldering them.

 

For anyone planning to do a little more DIY work, having the right tools will absolutely make your life significantly easier and I highly recommend picking up a decent soldering iron. 

Personally I use a Radio-frequency Metcal MX-500 - these are usually extremely expensive but I managed to purchase a 'damaged' one for ridiculously cheap on eBay and repaired it, and the performance is unbeatable - for anyone who hasn't used a RF iron, once you try it you can't go back! 

  • For general soldering, I recommend a decent chinese-brand iron such as this one, paired with genuine T-12 Hakko tips:
  • For tips, please purchase a genuine high quality tip. A cheap knock-off will have you banging your head in no time.
    • For small work, get the J-12 tip (very fine bent-tip)
    • For larger everyday work, something like the D-24 tip is good (chisel tip)

Learning how to use the tips and how to set the temperature is also important. This guide is very detailed: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type.html

I use equivalent tips for my Metcal. For SMD soldering, I use a JBC precision rework station but you don't need this unless you're soldering QFNs or smaller. 

Finally, flux is very useful, likewise with the correct solder width. I recommend a 0.2 to 0.3mm diameter solder for the really fine work (this is very important). For regular solder, 0.5-0.8mm works well. For flux, #186 or #951 Kester pens are my most used. 

 

I do so miss the JBC station I used when I did micro-soldering professionally. Out of my price range, though... An ERSA i-CON Pico might eventually be on the table though.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

nicba1010
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 10/06/2020 - 02:17
Posts: 22
Location: Zagreb, Croatia

I can definitely recommend the i-CON Pico and Nano. We have a Nano at work and it is amazing. Pico is basically the same thing but with no ESD protection.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10614
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
hinbli wrote:
The AUX LED’s have the selections of R, Y, G, C, B, V, W, Rainbow, Volts. I am still learning, but my questions are about Volts. It looks like mine has two different selections for Volts, so it is like R, Y, G, C, B, V, W, Rainbow, Volts No. 1, Volts No. 2. Functionality-wise Volts No. 1 and Volts No. 2 are exactly the same. There are just two of the same selections. At least, that is what I am thinking. What am I doing wrong?

Not doing anything wrong. The voltage mode is there twice, to make it easier to select. When there was just one, people found the timing difficult… so a second one was added to give the user a wider time window.

hinbli wrote:
The next question is about Volts, too. When Volts is selected, the color goes to V (violet) …

That means the battery is full, or close to full.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10614
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

contactcr wrote:

code version: … lume1/revision/492

Soft reset… good
Voltage check… good
Temp regulation… good
Ramping… good
Steps… good
Aux… good
Lockout… good
Momentary… good
Manual/Auto Memory… good
Strobes… good

LVP… not tested
Muggle… not tested

One thing that works different from my other Anduril lights is: Turbo > Stepdown > double click takes me to last memorized and not back into turbo

Not sure if bug or by choice.


Also, are my fuses wrong? Datasheet shows another value for High Question

Thanks! I think you are the first to try it.

About the fuses, I vaguely recall that some avrdude versions report swapped values for two fuses… so it might just be that. Not sure.

About double-click going to mem after turbo has stepped down, that sounds strange. If you have the ceiling set to 149/150, and the current brightness is below that, double-click should go back up to turbo. If it’s not doing that, something doesn’t sound right. Could it be that the ceiling is set to a lower level?

The main areas of risk in this version are the voltage and temperature measurement, and thermal regulation. If those are working though, it’s probably safe to merge into a bigger branch for more people to use.

Caleb
Caleb's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 03/13/2016 - 01:28
Posts: 641

loneoceans wrote:

Thanks for the comments. Quick responses:

Caleb wrote:
Thanks for doing this. Great idea. Is it possible to produce a version for mechanical switches and Bistro type firmware?

Not a problem either. What flashlights are good candidates? 

;

Convoy S21A or B, M21A, B…

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 46 min 15 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1399
Location: Croatia

That would be great.^^^

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 55 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3440
Location: US

Those are not e-switch though so a bunch of functionality would be gone and new firmware needed.

I think these, in order of highest preference, are all good choices:

  • Skilhunt headlamp or side switch light
  • Any Emisar/Noctigon light
  • Any Sofirn side switch
  • Smaller Lumintop GT models
  • Any FireFlies light (though I think they are making their own?)
  • Any Astrolux FT or Matenmico MF series
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10614
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
contactcr wrote:
Caleb wrote:
Is it possible to produce a version for mechanical switches and Bistro type firmware?

Those are not e-switch though so a bunch of functionality would be gone and new firmware needed.

If I understand correctly, that was the goal. Lume-style driver for non-e-switch lights running non-e-switch firmware.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 55 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3440
Location: US
ToyKeeper wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Caleb wrote:
Is it possible to produce a version for mechanical switches and Bistro type firmware?

Those are not e-switch though so a bunch of functionality would be gone and new firmware needed.

If I understand correctly, that was the goal. Lume-style driver for non-e-switch lights running non-e-switch firmware.

In that case just standard sizes 17,20,22 (with as much edge clearance as possible for retaining rings). Most mechanical ones don’t have very specialized layout like FW lights.

WTF
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 03/05/2017 - 20:13
Posts: 309

If loneoceans can put an e switch solder pad the on driver it could be used for both clicky and e switch lights.

Would you happen to have Anduril functioning on an 841? This would allow him to adapt his GXB172 clicky firmware existing for the 841instead of starting over.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10614
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
WTF wrote:
Would you happen to have Anduril functioning on an 841?

I started adding 841 support at one point, but there was no hardware for it, so I had nothing to test on and no concrete target to add support for. So it never got finished.

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Online
Last seen: 37 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 228

Hello all, 

ToyKeeper is right! The Lume1 hardware can be applied to other flashlights as well, though it's not possible to adapt a Clicky-type flashlight (i.e. the switch cuts off power completely) to work with an e-Switch firmware like Anduril. What I was saying is that there are no hardware nor software limitations that would prevent the Lume1 design to be adapted to clicky-type flashlights as well. Personally I do like the classic Convoy S2 but I haven't really had time to adapt the Lume1 to that driver just yet.

For the GXB-series, I'd recommend that project only for people who know what they are getting themselves into and have a fair bit of experience with hardware work, since those are very high power drivers are generally impractical to use in real life, and will not achieve the designed performance without proper care in construction, component selection, etc. It's a much more involved overall system than the lume1-series. For those drivers, the reason why I chose the 841 was due to it's tiny size (it comes in 3x3mm package, which the others like 1634 do not), but other than that there's no reason why another MCU wouldn't work. A good candidate will be the 1-series in the near future :). 

I am hoping to expand the driver to more flashlight but due to the slightly more complicated nature of the switching drivers, I'd like to focus on one project at a time to make sure it's robust and reliable. Hope that makes sense!

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

WTF
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 03/05/2017 - 20:13
Posts: 309

I respectfully disagree about your GXB driver being impractical, its a masterpiece. It’s a shame more people aren’t using it.

I use one three times a week for mountain biking driving an xhp70.2 with a 21700 battery. Its super efficient and with the C8 size host runtime on turbo is pretty good and lights up a very large area. My rides are about 100 minutes long using a modified level two (three is too bright) and the charger never reads below 85% battery capacity.

It can be tricky to build if your soldering skills aren’t great and the parts are expensive compared to most drivers around here, but its the only driver that gets that much power and efficiency out of a 17mm pcb. There aren’t many people able to do this and even fewer that would share it for free. Thank you for making it available to us.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3719
Location: North Carolina

WTF wrote:
I respectfully disagree about your GXB driver being impractical, its a masterpiece. It’s a shame more people aren’t using it. I use one three times a week for mountain biking driving an xhp70.2 with a 21700 battery. Its super efficient and with the C8 size host runtime on turbo is pretty good and lights up a very large area. My rides are about 100 minutes long using a modified level two (three is too bright) and the charger never reads below 85% battery capacity.

It can be tricky to build if your soldering skills aren’t great and the parts are expensive compared to most drivers around here, but its the only driver that gets that much power and efficiency out of a 17mm pcb. There aren’t many people able to do this and even fewer that would share it for free. Thank you for making it available to us.


+1
Its a beast of a driver for its 17mm size.
Thanks again for sharing with the community Loneoceans. Thumbs Up
loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Online
Last seen: 37 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 228

Thanks WTF and Moderator007 for the kind words. I'll definitely look into revisiting those drivers in the future but likely not in the near time-frame since I have many things on my plate. I'll also be testing out Anduril2 (thanks TK!) for the driver and making sure all systems are working. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

Noir
Noir's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 10 min ago
Joined: 06/03/2018 - 09:13
Posts: 97
Location: Germany

I am finally getting caught up on this thread (I have been away from BLF for a little while). Here is my recap of the last 8 pages (please correct me if I got anything wrong).

 

Lume1 driver is now available from nealsgadgets, announcement in post #212 (GitHub page with datasheet). 

There seem to be three minor issues with the current batch:

  1. MOSI and MISO programming pads are swapped compared to Emisar drivers (the printing on the driver board is correct), when using the Emisar flashing kit the corresponding wires need to be swapped.
  2. The four solder pads on the AUX-LED board are small and fairly close together, making soldering a bit challenging.
  3. Neal/Lumintop has chosen lower RGB resistor values than the recommendations in the datasheet for brighter AUX-LEDs, however it seems that the resistors for green and blue have accidentally been swapped during production (or maybe the wrong values were chosen) causing green to be too bright.

The first and and second point have already been addressed by loneoceans with a new revision of both boards, but these are not yet available (or in production).

For the third point there seem to be four possible solutions:

  1. Don't install the AUX-LED board at all (easiest solution).
  2. Deal with the AUX-LEDs being a bit more rGb than RGB.
  3. Swap the resistors of the green and blue channel (I expect this solution to be implemented in future production runs).
  4. Get some 0402 SMD resistors and install the ones of your choosing (recommendations are in the datasheet and here in this thread).

 

The question to which I haven't really found an answer to is weather or not there will be a second production batch that addresses these three small issues. Is it worth waiting for such a second batch, or is that too far out? Will there even be a second batch? Or will there perhaps be a second batch but without any changes?

 

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Online
Last seen: 37 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 228

Noir wrote:

I am finally getting caught up on this thread (I have been away from BLF for a little while). Here is my recap of the last 8 pages (please correct me if I got anything wrong).

 

Lume1 driver is now available from nealsgadgets, announcement in post #212 (GitHub page with datasheet). 

There seem to be three minor issues with the current batch:

  1. MOSI and MISO programming pads are swapped compared to Emisar drivers (the printing on the driver board is correct), when using the Emisar flashing kit the corresponding wires need to be swapped.
  2. The four solder pads on the AUX-LED board are small and fairly close together, making soldering a bit challenging.
  3. Neal/Lumintop has chosen lower RGB resistor values than the recommendations in the datasheet for brighter AUX-LEDs, however it seems that the resistors for green and blue have accidentally been swapped during production (or maybe the wrong values were chosen) causing green to be too bright.

The first and and second point have already been addressed by loneoceans with a new revision of both boards, but these are not yet available (or in production).

For the third point there seem to be four possible solutions:

  1. Don't install the AUX-LED board at all (easiest solution).
  2. Deal with the AUX-LEDs being a bit more rGb than RGB.
  3. Swap the resistors of the green and blue channel (I expect this solution to be implemented in future production runs).
  4. Get some 0402 SMD resistors and install the ones of your choosing (recommendations are in the datasheet and here in this thread).

 

The question to which I haven't really found an answer to is weather or not there will be a second production batch that addresses these three small issues. Is it worth waiting for such a second batch, or is that too far out? Will there even be a second batch? Or will there perhaps be a second batch but without any changes?

 

 

Hello Noir, 

  • Previously I had sent Neal the updated fabrication package with the correct MOSI and MISO pads; this was well before final fabrication. I'm not sure why the updated fabrication package wasn't used in the end... regardless, I clarified with Neal again and hopefully for any future batches, the updated one with the correct pad pinout (same as Emisar D4 etc) will be used. The existing pads are labeled correctly though, as you pointed out. 
  • For future batches, unfortunately I don't have any timeline from Neal, and I haven't been able to get any concrete plans from him yet. My guess is that he will produce another batch if it is popular enough (i.e. when first batch sold out). I've asked a few times about this but I haven't got any response about those questions, nor any hard numbers for future batches. He has said he plans to have the driver in some FW3A flashlights stock though, but he hasn't given me any timeline yet. I suppose if there is enough community demand, Neal will produce it, since after-all he does have a business to run. 
  • Neal/Lumintop chose the RGB resistor values themselves and these were different from what I suggested. My guess is that they wanted to make them brighter. I have suggested some possible new values to Neal and Lumintop, but I don't know if they will pick them up. Regardless, I have also since sent them updated fabrication files for the RGB aux boards with wider pad spacing for easier soldering. These boards can also be ordered on Oshpark (see link on first post of this thread) if you want to assemble one yourself, but if you are able to solder the SMD LEDs and resistors, the original aux PCB should be no problem for you.

Hope this answers your questions.

Thanks! 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

Noir
Noir's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 10 min ago
Joined: 06/03/2018 - 09:13
Posts: 97
Location: Germany

Thanks for your reply loneoceans,

unfortunate that you haven't gotten a decent reply from Neal regarding future batches. I guess we will simply have to wait and see.

Thankfully the above mentioned issues are fairly minor, I see them more as an inconvenience. Not having to solder tiny 0402 resistor would have been a bit more convenient, but you only have to do it once.

merlot
Online
Last seen: 13 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 10/17/2020 - 21:25
Posts: 1
Location: UK

Are there any plans for a mechanical switch version of this? I’m looking for a high efficiency 1S 17mm/20mm buck driver and this looks almost perfect!

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Online
Last seen: 37 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 228

merlot wrote:
Are there any plans for a mechanical switch version of this? I'm looking for a high efficiency 1S 17mm/20mm buck driver and this looks almost perfect!

Hello Merlot, there are no current plans just yet, but perhaps in the future. Thanks! 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

Pages