[ Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril + RGB Aux ] - For Sale Now!

409 posts / 0 new
Last post
loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

Hello everyone,

Thank you all for patience! I'm happy to say that the Lume1-FW3X drivers are now available and can be found on Nealsgadgets. cool

 

From Neal:
You can buy the Lume1-FW3X driver with included RGB AUX Board from Nealsgadgets here: https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/lume1-fw3x-driver

For a limited time, use Coupon Code LUME1 for 20% off!

 

For now, each driver comes co-packed with an RGB Aux board. Detailed instructions on how to put one together can be found in the datasheet. These drivers come pre-programmed with the latest firmware. Unfortunately, the Tri-LED boards are too complex logistically to work, since different people have different preferences for what LEDs to use. As a result, they are only available as a DIY for now.

Other than bare drivers, I believe Neal will also be offering the Lume1 driver in some versions of FW3x flashlights as well but I don't have the details on those yet.

 

These drivers are just off the production line and they're so new that I haven't yet got my hands on them! I've only done validation work with pre-production samples. Just an example, in previous samples, the LED resistor values for the RGB Aux. board were a little off, so I requested them to be adjusted, and I hope they made it in the change (confirmed by Neal but I haven't personally verified). Also Lumintop who produced the drivers did not make a final change to the MI and MO lines to swap them, so just a note to those who use a HarleyQuin pogo-pin programmer to remember to swap the MISO and MOSI lines (compared to the Emisar D4V2 for example) - you can ignore this if you don't plan to re-flash the MCU. The silkscreen printed on the PCB is correct. I had sent them the updated fabrication files so hopefully future batches will have this adjusted. This does not affect any functionality of the board.
 

Many thanks to Neal from Nealsgadgets for his hard work getting the logistics to line up well. It was a challenging process due to all the delays and logistical issues due to the pandemic.

Importantly, many thanks to all the forum members here on BLF for your support, feedback, and suggestions for this project! I really appreciate all the detailed suggestions and comments I received through this process. A big thanks also to ToyKeeper for the amazing Anduril firmware and her expertise and advice. In addition, many thanks to everyone who showed their support in the initial group-buy-interest list, and for your subsequent patience. It's humbling to see how a small hobby project has turned into a product that hopefully will be enjoyed by like-minded hobbyists. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

Danthemanz
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 03/11/2020 - 20:25
Posts: 107
Location: Sydney, Australia

So exciting! These are def worth paying for an international DHL courier in my books Wink
Can’t wait. Thanks for all your amazing work Lume1, i hope you get your hands on some soon enough!

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

Quadrupel wrote:
I'm so mad, because its only one size diameter. Can you share schematics or have to buy one and back trace ? :))

Yes they will be posted to my github page. You can also buy one to support Neal! 

This driver was specifically laid out for the FW3x flashlight and has components specifically chosen to fit the very low z-height. Designing one for other flashlights would allow for larger components at a different price point. Enjoy! Smile 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

Quadrupel
Quadrupel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2017 - 10:40
Posts: 293
Location: Lithuania
Thumbs Up You are the best!
id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 45 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1281
Location: Croatia

Perfect!

Thx

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4212
Location: The Motor City

Ordered 3 of the Lume1’s…. this NovaTac 120 has been waiting a loooong time.. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 45 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1281
Location: Croatia

cool

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ordered 3 of the Lume1's.... this NovaTac 120 has been waiting a loooong time.. Wink !{width:80%}https://i.postimg.cc/C1qX5jx8/IMG-1622.jpg![/quote]

That’s what i did too LOL

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Rayoui
Rayoui's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 08/06/2019 - 00:38
Posts: 288
Location: Portland, OR

Excellent! Ordered three. Thanks so much for all the work you put in on this!

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3385
Location: US

is 28 AWG silicone wire small enough for RGB board? Looks like we may have to go smaller or open up hole on already small shelf. I guess I should learn to read. First post suggests 30AWG or teflon so the answer would be a no to that Smile

Can these new boards (or the the old boards) be retrofit for other traditional e-switch lights if the diameter is similar? Could it be flashed with a mechanical clicky firmware if such a thing was made?

Just trying to figure out how many I should buy.

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 243
Location: LA, CA

Ordered! Thanks for all the folks that put this together and saw it through getting it made!

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

contactcr wrote:
-is 28 AWG silicone wire small enough for RGB board? Looks like we may have to go smaller or open up hole on already small shelf.- I guess I should learn to read. First post suggests 30AWG or teflon so the answer would be a no to that Smile Can these new boards (or the the old boards) be retrofit for other traditional e-switch lights if the diameter is similar? Could it be flashed with a mechanical clicky firmware if such a thing was made? Just trying to figure out how many I should buy.

In one of the prototype drivers I received early on, I believe they used AWG28 silicone wire for the RGB board. The wire diameter is fine, but typically silicone wire insulation is fairly thick. This made for a very tight fit. As a result, I recommend using as thin a wire as you can manage, and teflon coated is good since the insulation is thin (though it's hard to strip the wires if your wire stripper is not sharp). Soldering to the RGB board shouldn't be too difficult, just need a pair of tweezers ideally and make sure the wire ends are not frayed (or use solid core). 

This driver was specifically designed for FW3x.. I guess it could fit other flashlights but it wasn't designed to do so, hence you'll probably need some modifications. The driver was also designed for e-Switch flashlights, so it will not work with mechanical clicky flashlights, and probably there won't be any firmware written to support it. Likely a different design using a clicky-specific firmware would be more appropriate. Hope that helps! 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

iamlucky13
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 48 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 09:18
Posts: 844
Location: USA

I remember another user recommending 30 AWG kynar insulated, solid wire for applications like aux LED’s. 30 AWG is thin enough that even solid wire is fairly flexible, but it tends to stay in the position you bend it to instead of the insulation wanting to pull it back straight, and it can be a little easier to strip. I think Kynar was recommended simply for better cost and availability than teflon, and thinner than silicone.

The other recommendation was to just buy white wire and mark your wires with colored sharpies (or number them with stripes if you don’t have colored sharpies). Most of us don’t need multiple rolls of fine wire in all the different colors like to color code aux boards.

asdqqq
Online
Last seen: 1 min 39 sec ago
Joined: 02/19/2020 - 16:53
Posts: 91

This should work fine in an FW1A right?

And how hard would it be to “swap the MISO and MOSI lines” on my Emisar programmer? I don’t see anything that looks readily swappable, and I don’t know what I’m doing :).

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3385
Location: US

asdqqq wrote:
This should work fine in an FW1A right?

And how hard would it be to “swap the MISO and MOSI lines” on my Emisar programmer? I don’t see anything that looks readily swappable, and I don’t know what I’m doing :).

It should work for FW1A, yes.

You could probably unplug one side of the adapter and use something like male to female jumper wires in whatever order you need. You could probably unplug both sides and use female to female jumper cables too but I dont have an Emisar one to verify.

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1449
Location: Ohio, United States

loneoceans wrote:

contactcr wrote:
-is 28 AWG silicone wire small enough for RGB board? Looks like we may have to go smaller or open up hole on already small shelf.- I guess I should learn to read. First post suggests 30AWG or teflon so the answer would be a no to that Smile Can these new boards (or the the old boards) be retrofit for other traditional e-switch lights if the diameter is similar? Could it be flashed with a mechanical clicky firmware if such a thing was made? Just trying to figure out how many I should buy.

In one of the prototype drivers I received early on, I believe they used AWG28 silicone wire for the RGB board. The wire diameter is fine, but typically silicone wire insulation is fairly thick. This made for a very tight fit. As a result, I recommend using as thin a wire as you can manage, and teflon coated is good since the insulation is thin (though it's hard to strip the wires if your wire stripper is not sharp). Soldering to the RGB board shouldn't be too difficult, just need a pair of tweezers ideally and make sure the wire ends are not frayed (or use solid core). 

This driver was specifically designed for FW3x.. I guess it could fit other flashlights but it wasn't designed to do so, hence you'll probably need some modifications. The driver was also designed for e-Switch flashlights, so it will not work with mechanical clicky flashlights, and probably there won't be any firmware written to support it. Likely a different design using a clicky-specific firmware would be more appropriate. Hope that helps! 

For the soldering advice: Tin your leads (solves the fraying issue) and flux it up. For something that small you shouldn't need much more than a tap. Be sure to clean any flux residue afterwards. 

 

I'm planning on 30AWG silicone. Floppy wet spaghetti-noodle wire.

 

Also: The driver should fit FW1A light just fine Wink

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4139
Location: California

Ordered a Lume1 today. Plan is to put this in my brushed titanium LM10.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 2 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3678
Location: North Carolina

@asdqqq
If this is the programmer your talking about. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68263
Then contactcr’s solution should work great. You might could cut MISO and MOSI leads coming from the pogo pcb to the cable and wire them around the opposite way.

0oklight
0oklight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 51 min ago
Joined: 12/20/2019 - 18:51
Posts: 83
Location: London, UK

Just bought three. Thanks loneoceans for all that work and now just waiting for delivery from Neal.

Danthemanz
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 03/11/2020 - 20:25
Posts: 107
Location: Sydney, Australia

Its a pity about the flashing pins. I might have to buy another one from Hank and swap the pins around permanently. Theres no easy & safe solution I can think of.
I bought 5 of the first batch so i will no doubt use them.

asdqqq
Online
Last seen: 1 min 39 sec ago
Joined: 02/19/2020 - 16:53
Posts: 91

That’s the programmer I’m taking about. So would these work? https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-Solderless-Breadboard-Arduino-Project/dp/B...

And then basically make a new ribbon cable out of them to patch in? How do I know which are the 2 that need to be switched?

Thanks

iamlucky13
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 48 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 09:18
Posts: 844
Location: USA
loneoceans wrote:
Also Lumintop who produced the drivers did not make a final change to the MI and MO lines to swap them, so just a note to those who use a HarleyQuin pogo-pin programmer to remember to swap the MISO and MOSI lines (compared to the Emisar D4V2 for example) – you can ignore this if you don’t plan to re-flash the MCU. The silkscreen printed on the PCB is correct. I had sent them the updated fabrication files so hopefully future batches will have this adjusted. This does not affect any functionality of the board.

Is it confirmed that they will be doing another batch with this fixed? If so, I might just hold off until then for the convenience of having matching pads, even if it might mean missing out on the discount.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1174
Location: Sydney AU

Dang it. Too late Sad Bought already, but who knows if it’s shipped. Will have to get another pogo adapter because I’m not rewiring things every time.

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

Actually I had sent Neal (who sent Lumintop) the updated board files to have the swapped miso and mosi lines a long time ago, so we're not sure why Lumintop went with the older board files for fabrication. In any case, I don't have confirmation yet that future batches will swap the MI and MO programming pads, but I have certainly raised it up to Neal again. Apologies for the trouble but I did my best to convey the message to use the latest files for production, and I can confirm that Neal has received updated files.

contactcr is right - the easiest way is to simply get a bunch of female-female 0.1" headers and make your own cable, if you're using the Emisar pogo-pin flashing kit. These headers are cheap and plentiful. You can also use female-male headers if you unplug only one of the sides. This set on Amazon is fairly cheap and has all 3 variants: https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/.

 

If you're planning to modify the firmware, please get the latest version specifically for the LUME1-FW3X from either TK's repository, or the github page with the latest Anduril firmware.

There are some modifications that were made to Anduril to help take advantage of the additional hardware in the Lume1 driver, so it's a little more advanced than other Anduril-based flashlights. Some of the base files (non hwdef or cfg files) are modified specifically for Lume1. One example is the external temperature sensor handler. The comments in the code should describe these in detail.

 

For soldering the Aux LED boards, Scallywag has the right idea. Use some flux and just a touch of solder. I highly recommend using tweezers to hold the wires and pre-cut and tin them to length (details in the datasheet PDF here: https://github.com/loneoceans/lume1-fw3x-anduril/). Solid core AWG30 is great, but any other thin wire of your choice will work well too. There are also detailed instructions about prepping the flashlight for driver replacement.

Just a suggestion: this 8-stranded multi-colour wire-wrapping wire works really well, but the insulation is prone to melting at low temperature, so it needs a little finesse when soldering to prevent the tweezers squeezing the (melting) insulation: https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Solder-Coated-Wire-Wrapping-Celsius/dp/B01LWI20M0/. This wire is also great for PCB rework since it's solid core. 

 

For the FW1A, I actually do not have one myself so I cannot test nor verify that it will work, but there should be no reason why it shouldn't work electrically, as long as it fits mechanically. Just be careful with the turbo-mode; direct drive FET may be too much for a single XPL LED, so you may have to limit it by perhaps using some 'low-drain' cells like the Panasonic 18650B, and make sure that the heat-sinking of the LED is done really well. However, there should be no problems with FET drive if a 3V XHP50 is used. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3385
Location: US

I ended up getting this:

30 awg ptfe stranded

It should arrive in the next few days. If it’s any good I could probably sell a few feet of each color if someone needs.

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1449
Location: Ohio, United States

For 30-gauge, I’d recently ordered this after dealing with overly fat switch wires in another light recently: multiple colors, 60-ish feet each, 30 gauge silicone, $12.95 prime as of posting

The dupont wires I ordered were this item for my flashing kit recently (with SOIC8 clip, I don’t have a progkey yet), which looks to be an identical item to the one LoneOceans posted and $0.50 cheaper at the time of this post. Either will work if prices fluctuate.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Chatika vas Paus
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 09/03/2017 - 13:46
Posts: 866
loneoceans wrote:
Also Lumintop who produced the drivers did not make a final change to the MI and MO lines to swap them, so just a note to those who use a HarleyQuin pogo-pin programmer to remember to swap the MISO and MOSI lines (compared to the Emisar D4V2 for example) – you can ignore this if you don’t plan to re-flash the MCU. The silkscreen printed on the PCB is correct. I had sent them the updated fabrication files so hopefully future batches will have this adjusted. This does not affect any functionality of the board.

I prefer to wait for the final version, but can you confirm that the discount code will work for future batches?

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I prefer to wait for the final version, but can you confirm that the discount code will work for future batches?

Unfortunately I have no idea how long the discount code will work for, nor have any control or knowledge of how many batches there will be (or if there will be future batches for that matter); this would be a question for Neal and Lumintop. They have a business to run so I assume that if it's selling well they will make more of what will sell; likewise with what they want to sell and which flashlights they want to put it in. I've just been able to convey my preferences to them but I don't know how much influence I have. 

I'll be happy to help answer technical questions instead, thanks! 

It seems that some folks are interested to change the firmware with their own modifications - what sort of changes are people thinking of making? Just curious. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

treellama
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 12/08/2018 - 21:20
Posts: 199
Location: Pittsburgh

A couple of firmware changes I might make:

Disable the FET for FW1A
Switch to single pin aux led control to use Lexel’s boards

I ordered a few with the mixed up programming pins

loneoceans
loneoceans's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/08/2017 - 00:18
Posts: 222

treellama wrote:
A couple of firmware changes I might make: Disable the FET for FW1A Switch to single pin aux led control to use Lexel’s boards I ordered a few with the mixed up programming pins

 

Just a note, unfortunately the Lume1 boards are unlikely to be compatible with Lexel's boards. I don't know what the exact schematic of his aux boards are, but the control is likely based on pulling one Attiny pin high or low to turn the LEDs on or off (or through pull up resistors in MCU).

However, the VCC voltage I'm running the Attiny at is different from the battery voltage, so the system may not work as designed. Likewise, the MCU used is different (1634 vs 85), as well as having different pins. Instead, the lume1 tri-LED AUX boards will allow you to recreate all functionality and colour combinations provided by Lexel's boards, as well as additional features provided by Anduril since Lume1 has individual RGB LED control exactly the same as the Emisar D4V2. This includes voltage display, a variety of flashing modes, colour combinations, and bright/dim settings.

The RGB Aux boards are included with the Lume1 driver for now as well, but tri-LED boards will require DIY assembly. 

 

For FET disabling, yes the easiest way to do it is with the config files, just a one line change. The Lume1 also has 4 additional solder jumper pads that need some firmware to be taken advantage of. Perhaps toggling FET on/off could be one of them..

Anyway, I'd love to garner more feedback from the Lume1-Fw3x driver; perhaps I could roll them into improvements for future drivers. One flashlight I'm eyeing is the Noctigon KR4 and similar series but I haven't had a chance to purchase one yet! It would be nice to also including USB charging I think. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

treellama
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 12/08/2018 - 21:20
Posts: 199
Location: Pittsburgh

Yeah the brightness will be wrong with the Lexel boards, but I’m hoping that is just a resistor change. The ones I have light up (very dimly) at 2.5V. They look better IMO than the tri led boards.

Pages