“REVIEW”: Skilhunt M200 [2019] - 1x18650/2xCR123a – 5000K High CRI – 1100 Lumens – Configurable UI [PIC HEAVY]

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MascaratumB
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“REVIEW”: Skilhunt M200 [2019] - 1x18650/2xCR123a – 5000K High CRI – 1100 Lumens – Configurable UI [PIC HEAVY]

Hi BLF!
This is my review of the Skilhunt M200 flashlight, the 2019/2020 version.

The flashlight was sent by Skilhunt for review with no other compensation than the flashlight itself and the accessories! Thanks Skilhunt!

Below you find my honest and unbiased appreciation of this flashlight!

Here´s the official page of this flashlight (non-affiliate): https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/

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INTRODUCTORY NOTE

I normally don’t do this in my reviews! But I am doing this introductory note because of one thing: this new Skilhunt M200, 2019/2020 version, is almost perfect !!! And the only reason why it is not perfect (for my use and preferences) is a small detail that can easily be overcome, and that I will mention during this review!

High-CRI? Check!
Configurable UI? Check!
Compact size and lightweight? Check!
Takes different types batteries? Check!
Built-in charging? Check

Really! This is an excellent flashlight, capable of matching some other “big” brands, especially due to its versatility and usability!
Stay tuned to see what it can do!

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GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Body Colour: Black
Other colours: Blue (bezel and rings on the e-switch and charging “port”)
Material: Aluminum (Type Ⅲ Anodization, rugged and anti-scratch finishing)
Emitter: Samsung LH351D (Neutral White) [also comes in XP-L HD CW]
Reflector: Smooth (SMO, U.D.O.C.)
Lens: Glass AR Coated Lens
Battery: 1 × 18650 Li-Ion 3.7V (high drain recommended) / 2 x CR123a
Working Voltage: 2.7V – 8.4V
Switch: Side E-Switch
Charging: Magnetic in a side port, through proprietary cable
Max runtime: N Days [not stated, but above 150hours]
Max beam distance: 161 meters / 171 meters
Max output: 1000 lumens / 1100 lumens
Candela: 6500cd / 7300cd
Waterproofness: IPX-8
Impact resistance: 1 m
Low Voltage Warning: YES (the flashlight will not work if inserted inverted)
Reverse Polarity Protection: YES
Battery level indicator: YES (to be described)

Others
- Intelligent temperature control technology
- High efficiency driver circuit
- Multi-level dissipating heat design and copper MCPCB
- Location indicator
- Lock-out function
- Magnetic tailcap

Other characteristics will be mentioned and/or described below.

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PACKAGE: THE FLASHLIGHT & ACCESSORIES

The Skilhunt M200 arrived in a Skilhunt branded cardboard box, which contains information about the emitter in the front and some overall specifications in the back. This box was well protected with foam and tape to prevent damages during shipping.

Inside the box we find a plastic holder for the M200 flashlight and below there is a paper holder for the accessories. My package included: Skilhunt M200, User Manual, 2 O-rings, 1 Pocket Clip, 1 Skilhunt branded lanyard, magnetic charging cable, and a random round piece of rubber Silly



THE FLASHLIGHT
This is obviously the star of the review! With a somewhat similar shape as the “Skilhunt M150”:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68466 , the M200 is a good looking flashlight!
Well, you can say that it reminds you of other brands such as Olight, due to the blue bezel and other appointments, but the M200 is surely different.

It is composed by 2 parts as the body and head are not (easily) detachable, and only the tailcap can be taken out.

It has cooling fins all around the head and grippy knurling on the body (battery tube).

On one side it has the e-switch with integrated led, the Skilhunt logo and the CE mark; on the other, it has the magnetic charging port, the model identification engraving and the brands’ website address, and the “hot surface” warning.

Below the head part it has a groove to attach the pocket clip. Near the bottom of the tube it has a smaller groove where the clip does not fit correctly Tired

The tailcap is magnetic so that the flashlight can be attached to some metallic surfaces.

Despite the overall roundish shape, the Skilhunt M200 has some flat shape nuances in the head, all contributing to a nice hand feeling while holding it!



Taking a look from the head, what do we see?
First, perfectly centred Samsung LH351D 5000K 90CRI Led, under a Smooth reflector (identified as U.D.O.C by the brand) that is supposed to provide “Increased reflectivity over 10%., Efficiency reflection, perfect beamshot, excellent structure and temperature resistance” , in Skilhunt’s words.

Besides that, we can also see the AR Coated glass lens, under a blue bezel with 3 grooves. As I don’t intend to change this Led, I didn’t open the head, but it is stated that it has a copper MCPCB. I believe it will probably be similar to the M150’s one, slightly rectangular and around 1.5mm tick.


Concerning the other parts of this flashlight, some aspects have been pointed above already.
The switch has a LED indicator that will blink blue or red depending on the situation.

The tube threads are well cut, seem trapezoidal, and arrived well lubricated. There is an o-ring to prevent water infiltration through the tailcap.

Inside the flashlight there is a sticker indicating the correct polarity of the batteries (+ pole towards the head, – towards the tail).
Through the tube we can also see the driver’s spring and a black plastic cover around it to prevent the contact with other parts of the driver.

When inserting a normal protected battery (button top in this case), you can see that the battery will protrude through the bottom; on the contrary a smaller unprotected flat top battery will leave some space in the bottom.
Despite this, I didn’t notice any rattling as the tail spring compresses the batteries and makes them fit well.




In the tail we can see a removable spring (to replace the magnet) and also the magnet itself.
Outside, there is a lanyard hole.
Seeing the tailcap base, it is perceivable that this flashlight can easily tailstand!



Before taking a look at the accessories, let’s just check the dimensions and weight of this light!

As mentioned above, this is a lightweight and compact flashlight Wink



THE ACCESSORIES

Like the M150, the Skilhunt M200 arrived with some accessories as stated above. It only didn’t brought a battery,and I believe that it is not an option in the “regular” pack

USER MANUAL
The user manual is written in English and Chinese. It is well written, well structured and very clear, providing almost all the important information that the user needs to know. Some other information can be checked online on Skilhunt’s webpage.

LANYARD
The lanyard in this package is a Skilhunt branded lanyard with a wrist adjuster. It is black with light blue letters.
It is comfortable in the wrist and has a good length. It can be easily passed through the tailcap hole.

POCKET CLIP
The pocket clip is somewhat similar to many other flashlights in the range (Olight, Acebeam, On The Road, and eventually others come to my mind). It is strong and attaches easily to the groove in the flashlight, below the switch.

Despite this, the pocket clip is probably my less favourite aspect in this flashlight and that is why it is just “almost perfect”!

Why? Because:
a) It doesn’t allow deep pocket carry, with the tail towards the top in a jeans pocket (the groove in the bottom would be a nice solution, but it is not as large as it should not as high on the tube as it could be).
b) It has a flap that allows a nice retention but that can eventually “damage” the fabric.
c) It somewhat wears its anodizing a bit faster than I expected, not being as good as the Olight Baton series.

Honestly, this is probably the only point that I can criticize in this flashlight!

O-RINGS
Well, 2 o-rings and a round piece of rubber also arrived in this pack Big Smile

CHARGING CABLE
Being similar to the M150 and other Skilhunt lights, this is “USB to Magnetic port” cable. It has around 80cm.

This cable can be seen as “proprietary”, not a common micro USB or USB-C cable. It as a USB port that can be plugged into a wall charger, powerbank or computer, and has the magnetic part that will fit on the M200 port.
It has 2 LEDs inside: BLUE and RED. RED is for charging, BLUE is for almost charged/charged or for empty flashlight (no battery inside).

Please note that the flashlight can be used without battery and only the charging cable “plugged”!

Also note that the flashlight only charges 1 battery (18650 3.6/3.7V). So, even if it can be used with 2 smaller batteries, +don’t use the cable to charge when it has 2 batteries inside*.

Also, make sure that the battery is inserted in the correct direction so that the charging process doesn’t damage the flashlight.

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USER INTERFACE

This is probably the think I like the most in this flashlight and the thing that gives it advantage over some direct competitors: the possibility to configure the User Interface.

Besides having 2 Group Modes (A and B) to choose from, besides having hidden blinking modes, besides having an intuitive and practical UI with the right shortcuts, it also has the possibility to configure brightness levels on the blinking modes and the amount of levels on the Group Mode B (which is the one I prefer and that I think it is…*perfect*).

So, I made some videos to help going through the UI and its different uses and configuration.

First take a better look at the User Interface Wink

Now, let’s start!

In the middle you’ll also have information about lock/unlock the flashlight and how to use the momentary ON Low mode Big Smile

Changing between group modes A and B
This video shows how to alternate between group modes A and B.

FROM OFF:
- Press & Hold for 3 seconds – there will be 3 fast blinks (to lock the flashlight) and then 3 slow blinks.
Release the switch after these slow blinks, and you’ll be on the other mode.

In case you release the switch before the slow blinks, the flashlight will be locked and you’ll need to unlock it again (press & hold until it blinks fast 3 times) to restart the group modes changing.

___________________

Group mode A
This video shows how to operate the group mode A.

FROM OFF:
- Single Click – Turns the light ON on the last memorized level
- Double Click – Turns the light on Turbo (T1 or T2, depending on the definition)
- Triple Click – Turns the light ON in the “blinking group” (“Strobe”, “Slow blink” or “Fast blink”, depending on the last used mode)
- Press & Hold for 0.5 seconds – turns the flashlight ON in the lowest defined level (L1 or L2)
- Press & Hold for 3 seconds – locks/unlocks the flashlight (after 3 fast blinks)
- Press & Hold for 5 seconds – changes between modes A – B or vice-versa (after 3 fast + 3 slow blinks)

FROM ON:
- Press & Hold for 0.5s – turns the light OFF (to be used on regular or blinking modes)
- Single Click – cycles through the modes L – M – H T L…. depending on the configured modes (ex: L1 – M2 – H2 – T1 – L1….)
- Double Click – defines the output levels in each mode (ex: L1 – Double click – L2 – Double Click – L1)
- Triple click – enters the “blinking group” (“Strobe”, “Slow blink” or “Fast blink”, depending on the last used mode); click 1 time to return to the regular modes again

When the flashlight is LOCKED:
a) it can be used shortly as momentary ON, by pressing the switch for less than 3 seconds;
b) a double click will enable/disable the blinking red Led on the switch

___________________

Group mode B
This video shows how to operate the group mode B.

FROM OFF:
- Single Click – Turns the light ON
- Double Click – Turns the light on Turbo (T1, the highest output level)
- Triple Click – Turns the light ON in the “blinking group” (“Strobe”, “Slow blink” or “Fast blink”, depending on the last used mode)
- Press & Hold for 0.5s – enters the lowest defined setting or the L2 level (default)
- Press & Hold for 3 seconds – locks/unlocks the flashlight (after 3 fast blinks)
- Press & Hold for 5 seconds – changes between modes A – B or vice-versa (after 3 fast + 3 slow blinks)

FROM ON:
- Single Click – turns the light OFF
- Double Click – enters Turbo (T1); double click again time to return to the last used level on the “regular modes” cycle
- Triple Click while on the regular mode cycle – enters the level configuration
- Triple Click while on the “blinking group” – enters the brightness configuration of these modes

When the flashlight is LOCKED:
a) it can be used shortly as momentary ON, by pressing the switch for less than 3 seconds;
b) a double click will enable/disable the blinking red Led on the switch

___________________

Configuring “Blinking Modes” brightness
This video shows how to configure the brightness of the 3 blinking modes.

This operation can only be done while on the Group Mode B.

FROM OFF :
- Triple Click – Turns the light ON in the “blinking group” (“Strobe”, “Slow blink” or “Fast blink”, depending on the last used mode)
- Triple Click – When on blinking group, the triple click enters the configuration mode. Then:
a) Double Click to alternate between the 3 blinking modes
b) when you’ve chosen the mode you want to increase or dim brightness, Press & Hold the switch for more than 1 second until you notice more or lesse brightness
c) to save that new brightness level, Single Click exit the configuration mode turning the flashlight OFF
d) to restore the default levels, Triple Click when the blinking modes are active.

FROM ON:
- Single Click – Turns the light OFF

___________________

Configuring the amount of modes on Group Mode B
This video shows how to configure the brightness of the regular modes.

This operation can only be done while on the Group Mode B.

FROM OFF :
- Single Click – Turns the light ON in the last used mode
- Press & Hold 0.5s – Turns the light ON in the lowest configured mode

FROM ON:
- Single Click – Turns the light OFF
- Double Click – Enters Turbo 1 (T1, the brightest level)
- Triple Click – Enters the levels’ configuration, the light automatically starts cycling from Low2 to Turbo2 (L2 – L1 – M2 – M1 – H2 – H1 – T2), and the switch will blink RED on each of the already selected levels.
Ex: if the default levels are selected, the light will blink on the L2 – [blank] – M2 – [blank] – H2 – [blank] – T2 – L2….

When on the level’s configuration:
a) click the switch when it is RED to unselect that mode
b) click the switch then the switch doesn’t appear RED [blank] to select that mode
c) Press & Hold the switch to save the selection done (the light blinks and then goes to the lowest configured mod)
d) Triple Click to restore the 4 default modes mentioned above.

NOTES:
a) the maximum modes that can be configured are 7 (L2 – L1 – M2 – M1 – H2 – H1 – T2)
b) the minimum modes that can be configured are 2
c) Turbo 1 (T1) is always available when double clicking independently of the number of modes configured.

When locked the flashlight switch will, by default, blink red. In case you want to stop it, double click the switch Wink

————————————————————————————————————————

OUTPUTS & RUNTIME

As on the M150 review, I opted to retrieve this information from the M200 box as it becomes quite difficult to indicate each level runtime.

This seems to be a very regulated and efficient flashlight according to the specs.
The lowest setting (L2) is as low as 0.5 lumens, giving this light the ability to run for months!!!

Also, having different available levels to configure in each group mode, this flashlight allows a “controlled” use in case the battery juice is running out and you need to make it last more time.

The Turbo 1 is plenty bright and allows good illumination while not being a hot rod!

I didn’t make any heat vs runtime test to check the turbo stepdown, nor did I make any runtime test.

IMPORTANT
One thing should be noted in this area, as it leaves me some doubts.
The box mentions the use of 2 x CR123a batteries (3V, which would result on 6V max).
The webpage mentions a working voltage between 2.7V – 8.4V (implying that it could use 2 × 16340s or 2× 18350s). But this is not completely clear.
Also, the light only charges 1 battery (18650, 3.7V or 3.6V)

So, In case you want to increase the output, do as you want, but going a more “conservative” approach using 3V batteries may be a better option at least for a first test. Silly

Below you can have a notion of the different brightness levels.
When using all the 7 modes + turbo of the group B, the levels/brightness will be similar to the 8 levels you can choose in the group A

The 8 available brightness levels

MODE A
8 levels seen from above the LED

MODE B
The 4 default modes + Turbo seen from above the LED

Please not that there is no PWM in this flashlight Wink

————————————————————————————————————————

CHARGING and BATTERY LEVEL INDICATION

As mentioned before, charging can be done with the magnetic cable that came as accessory with this light!
The charger LED will be RED while charging, and BLUE for almost charged/fully charged or for empty flashlight (no battery inside).

About battery level indication, the flashlight switch led will blink:
5 times when the battery power is between 100%~80%;
3 times when the battery power is between 80%~50%;
2 times when the battery power is between 50%~20%;
1 longer time when the battery power is below 20%.

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FLASHLIGHT COMPARISON

Time for some size comparison with other flashlights!
Again, this M200 flashlight is quite compact for a 18650 light Wink

Vs Emisar D4

Vs Olight M2R Warrior

Vs Convoy S2 and Convoy S2+

Vs Wuben TO50R

Vs Acebam H20

Vs My EDC kit (Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 Panda White, Convoy S2+ 18350, Lumintop Tool AA V2.0)

Vs FireFlies ROT66 Gen II

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BEAMSHOTS

Unfortunately, the only night I had to take some outdoor photos, it was raining so the possibility to get good beamshots was not great . Sad Despite that, here are some night beamshots with the 4 default levels + turbo from mode group B.

As you can see, the flashlight provides good visibility at 40 meters and beyond.

As soon as I can I will take some more photos with dark and clear weather to show you what this light can do outdoor Thumbs Up

NightShots

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Tint Comparison

And now some tint comparison with other LEDs Wink

H-C 348 (Nichia NVSW219BT) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Convoy S2 (Osram White Flat CSLNM1.TG 1mm)

—————
Wuben E19 (Nichia 219C) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Lumintop FW1A (XP-L HI U6-4C)

—————
Wuben TO46R (XP-G3 5000K) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Wuben TO50R (Samsung LH351D 5000K)

—————
Lumintop Tool AA (Samsung LH351D 5000K ) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Sofirn SF14 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> On The Road i3 (Samsung LH351D 5000K)

—————
Lumintop Tool (Luxen V2 3000K) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Lumintop Tool AA (Samsung LH351D 5000K )

—————
Skilhunt M150 (Luxeon V2 5000K) >>> Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Convoy T2 (Luxeon V 4000K)

—————
Skilhunt M200 (Samsung LH351D 5000K) >>> Skilhunt M150 (Luxeon V2 5000K) >>> Convoy T2 (Luxeon V 4000K) >>> Lumintop Tool (Luxen V2 3000K)

————————————————————————————————————————

WE ARE FAMILY

Just some fun comparison with the little “sister”, the Skilhunt M150 Silly

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OVERALL APPRECIATION

I started this review with an Introductory Note that said few but much at the same time.
This flashlight, for me, is amazing!

And no, I am not saying this because it was sent for free! If I was doing a review of it after buying it, I would still say the same!

The shape, the anodizing, the functioning, the tint, the ergonomics, the size and weight, the charging capability, the User Interface…all of this makes me really like this flashlight!!! It is great for whatever I want it as an EDC flashlight (unless throw light at 200 meters or illuminate my whole village…Doh! For that I have other lights Big Smile )

The only drawback that I mentioned, for me, is the pocket clip. Well, I forgot to say: you can attach it to your cap to use the light as headlamp if needed Silly

Aside the pocket clip, everything else in this flashlight is awesome!
Apart from the “BLF lights” or with “BLF firmware” (I include here the Wuben TO50R), this is the best light I have in terms of user interface and usability!

*Shortcuts for the lowest, the highest, the last used mode, the blinking modes, the possibility to choose from 2 to 7 regular modes, electronic lock, momentary ON*…It left me Shocked

Besides that, and concerning ergonomics, this is a flashlight that fits well in the hands, being easily operated in different positions. The switch can be easily located, specially because it is opposed to the magnetic charging port.

I really don’t have much more to say! Sorry if I was very enthusiastic, though Big Smile Silly

I just want to acknowledge Skilhunt for the great work done in this flashlight!! Beer


Feel free to comment, make questions, criticize…

Thanks for looking and best regards! Beer

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Edited by: MascaratumB on 02/15/2020 - 06:50
MascaratumB
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Correction: the “random round piece of rubber” that I mentioned above is actually a replacement to the magnet in the tailcap.
I didn’t thought about that until I saw Narmattau’s review of the new Skilhunt H04 .

BTW, the H04 headlamp also has this nice configurable UI! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

xevious
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Very nice review, MascaratumB. Thumbs Up Certainly an impressive flashlight in many respects. The shiny blue accents remind me a lot of OLIGHT. Also some design cues taken from that brand. But I prefer Skilhunt’s magnetic charging port. If I didn’t already have 3 different single 18650 flashlights, I would buy this brand new. I may try to pick up a used one cheaper a year from now.

By the way, you have a typo. You wrote “THE FASHLIGHT” after the Packaging photos section . Missing the “L”

Ryley
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Nice review MascaratumB, and nice photos as always Big Smile

I have M200 v1.0, very nice form factor indeed. Just found out from your review that this v2.0 uses Samsung LH351D.
I have replaced the emitter in my M200 with XP-L HI 5A2 4000K, the beam is sharper with nice tint and more comfortable on the eyes.


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xevious wrote:
Very nice review, MascaratumB. Thumbs Up Certainly an impressive flashlight in many respects. The shiny blue accents remind me a lot of OLIGHT. Also some design cues taken from that brand. But I prefer Skilhunt’s magnetic charging port. If I didn’t already have 3 different single 18650 flashlights, I would buy this brand new. I may try to pick up a used one cheaper a year from now.

By the way, you have a typo. You wrote “THE FASHLIGHT” after the Packaging photos section . Missing the “L”

Thanks for your words xevious Wink
Yup, this surely reminds Olight in many aspects, but the UI in this light is a step further! I hope it is as reliable as Olight throughout the time too Wink

One thing I am noticing more is some yellowish corona that I will solve with some DC-Fix and pronto, the light will be perfect for EDC too Smile

And thanks for poiting the L missing , I’ve corrected it Wink

Ryley wrote:
Nice review MascaratumB, and nice photos as always Big Smile

I have M200 v1.0, very nice form factor indeed. Just found out from your review that this v2.0 uses Samsung LH351D.
I have replaced the emitter in my M200 with XP-L HI 5A2 4000K, the beam is sharper with nice tint and more comfortable on the eyes.


Hey Ryley,thanks for looking and for your words Wink
Never been in contact with yhe previous version, but both seem pretty good despite the different appearance!

Hum, the beam with that Led is surely nice, I like the XP-L HI in warm white Wink

I am willing to make a small test to show the CRI of this light but didn’t have the conditions before! Maybe later I can do it !

Thanks again and enjoy your light too Smile

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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Some due night beamshots of the Skilhunt M200.
I was using Group Mode B (L2 – M2 – H2 – T2) and Turbo 1 (T1) [Specs Lumens: 0.5 – 25 – 150 – 535 – 1000]

The flashlight provides good ilumination above 70m.

I also noticed that using a protected battery created some “flickering” when accessing T1. I immediatly started using an unprotected Sony VTC6 (High-Drain) and I noticed that the output increased on T1 and also that flickering stopped.

I don’t know if this is registered in all flashlights, but it justifies what manufacturer says: “use high drain cells”!



And this is some attempt to make a CRI Comparison between the Skilhunt M200 and other flashlights with High CRI and non High CRI Leds.

It is probable that I fail with this test, but…bear with me, I was never good at these Silly

Major diferences are shown in the orange more than on the red…

HIGH CRI
Wuben TO50R (5000K Samsung LH351D, quad optic) >>>>> Wuben T046R (5000K XP-G3, triple optic) >>>>> H-C 348 (5000K Nichia NVSW219BT, OP reflector)

Skilhunt M200 (5000K Samsung Lh351D, SMO/UDOC reflector)

NON HIGH CRI (~70CRI)
FW3A (5000K XP-L HI 3D, Triple Optic) >>>>> Skilhunt M150 (5000K Luxeon V2, OP reflector)

Thanks for looking!
Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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xevious wrote:
Very nice review, MascaratumB. :”

Thanks for the review. The disadvantages can be considered a quick reset of brightness 1000Lm-3 minutes to 535Lm (50%)

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MascaratumB wrote:
Yup, this surely reminds Olight in many aspects, but the UI in this light is a step further! I hope it is as reliable as Olight throughout the time too Wink

One thing I am noticing more is some yellowish corona that I will solve with some DC-Fix and pronto, the light will be perfect for EDC too Smile

And thanks for pointing the L missing , I’ve corrected it Wink

You’re welcome. I agree, the UI does seem more advanced than Olight. Beam shots look decent from your photos. Is the lens fully accessible so you can apply the DC-Fix on the inside of the lens?

I would like to get this light eventually, although I think I might go with the Lumintop EDC18 first. Something about that design really appeals to me. For roughly the same price to get Anduril UI is hard to resist!

Of course with both of these models, the step down from Turbo is fairly quick. But that’s not the real intention behind these lights—long term throwing. Probably better off with an Astrolux MF01S for that.

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valera wrote:
xevious wrote:
Very nice review, MascaratumB. :”

Thanks for the review. The disadvantages can be considered a quick reset of brightness 1000Lm-3 minutes to 535Lm (50%)

Thank you Wink
Well, if this M200 works as the new Skilhunt H04 Headlamp, the turbo is timed and not heat-controled. Narmattaru reviewed that headlamp and showed that after that timed stepdown the turbo could be attained again for the same “cycle”.

He pointed that this could be a disadvantage both for the light (due to accumulated heat) and the battery. Also for that reason, it is better to use a high-drain cell!

xevious wrote:
You’re welcome. I agree, the UI does seem more advanced than Olight. Beam shots look decent from your photos. Is the lens fully accessible so you can apply the DC-Fix on the inside of the lens?

I would like to get this light eventually, although I think I might go with the Lumintop EDC18 first. Something about that design really appeals to me. For roughly the same price to get Anduril UI is hard to resist!

Of course with both of these models, the step down from Turbo is fairly quick. But that’s not the real intention behind these lights—long term throwing. Probably better off with an Astrolux MF01S for that.

Hum, I didn’t unscrew the bezel, but I suspect that this is similar to the M150 and other lights, so the bezel is probably easy to unscrew to access the lens.

But DC-fix can also be applicated without removint the lens, although it is not the best solution, eventually.

Yes, I agree, this is not a light to be held indefinitely on high, so the timed stepdowns are a way to cool it down…despite what I mentioned above about “restarting” the cycle.

About the EDC18, I guess it is a little more larger than this. This light is a good light for backpacking due to its rechargeability capacity, the lightweight and compact form.
Also, it seems to be well regulated for long runtimes on the lower modes. Definitely a light I would take on a trip!

The EDC18…is only missing the shorty tube and the aux leds to be a best seller Silly

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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If the turbo is timed and not heat controlled, wondering why there’s NTC in the led mpcb.. this is on my M200 v1.0 (before the led swap)


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Today I decided to open the bezel of my Skilhunt M200 and contrarily to what I mentioned above, and also corroborating what Ryley posted above, the MCPCB of this flashlight is round and has a bunch of wires connected to it.

Narmattaru reviewed this light and confirms that turbo is timed, not heat controlled.

________________________

I also decided to mod this light to end the slight tint shift that this light has. So, I opted to use a pebbled TIR that I had laying arond , instead of using DC-Fix.
I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).
Also, I am not using the glass lens, there was no space for it with the TIR.

Here is how the beam looks with the TIR:

And this is a comparison with:
a) Convoy S2, 5000K Nichia, OP reflector >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b) Wuben TO50R, 4 x LH351D, quad TIR optic

It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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You know, I hate these reviews.

I really didn’t need to add another light to my wishlist. EDC’s always get priority, too. So this could soon be en route..

Thanks?

(Seriously though, great review! Great looking light and form factor!)

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MascaratumB wrote:
Today I decided to open the bezel of my Skilhunt M200 and contrarily to what I mentioned above, and also corroborating what Ryley posted above, the MCPCB of this flashlight is round and has a bunch of wires connected to it.

Narmattaru reviewed this light and confirms that turbo is timed, not heat controlled.

Thanks for confirming this. Apparently v1.0 and v2.0 share the same internal parts.

JaredM wrote:

I really didn’t need to add another light to my wishlist. EDC’s always get priority, too. So this could soon be en route..

Thanks?

(Seriously though, great review! Great looking light and form factor!)

Slightly slimmer than FW1A Wink

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I have two questions/concerns about this light. Unfortunately, these are the ever-so-important details of lights that get MISSED ALL THE TIME! (Can you sense my frustration?) lol

1. How’s the switch actuation/feel? And resistance to accidental activation? How about ease of locating switch by feel?

2. The dang pocket clip! Can the tube be reversed? What are the diameter and width of the rear groove?

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For a 40$ there is no better EDC imho. Form factor, efficient buck driver, hi-cri LED option ,charger, variety of TIR optic for modding.

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JaredM wrote:
You know, I hate these reviews.

I really didn’t need to add another light to my wishlist. EDC’s always get priority, too. So this could soon be en route..

Thanks?

(Seriously though, great review! Great looking light and form factor!)

Ahah, thanks Wink
Your wallet won’t thank you, probably, but your EDC kit surely will Wink Ehehe!

Ryley wrote:
Slightly slimmer than FW1A Wink

Thanks for the comparison Wink
It would also be nice to have an Olight S2R (I or II) to compare it with this light, as both have the same form factor, side switch and all that.

JaredM wrote:
I have two questions/concerns about this light. Unfortunately, these are the ever-so-important details of lights that get MISSED ALL THE TIME! (Can you sense my frustration?) lol

1. How’s the switch actuation/feel? And resistance to accidental activation? How about ease of locating switch by feel?

2. The dang pocket clip! Can the tube be reversed? What are the diameter and width of the rear groove?

Answering you, by parts Wink
1)
a) the switch is not as resistant as the Emisar D4 or the Olight M2R Warrior, or even the Wuben TO50R or TO46R. Both these have rubber caps over the switch so this may be a factor in resistance. You still need to press it slightly to activate, but it doesn’t need a lot of strength.

b) well, accidental activation is something that I didn’t experience because I normally use it locked, so it didn’t turn ON in the pocket. BUT, in case you use it loose in the pocket with other stuff, it may happen. If clipped to the pocket, or loose without other stuff, that possibility will probably decrease

c) the design of this light is very nice in terms of location. If you are using it with index and thumb you’ll find out that having the button up or down won’t necessarily matter because you’ll be able to activate it with whatever finger you have on it Wink Also, I am using mine with the pocket clip in the opposite direction of the button, so whenever I grab the light, I’ll know where the button is. But even without that, you’ll be able to touch the switch and activate it well due to the shape of the head.

Check this photo I put above:

2) About the pocket clip and tube…as the tube is glued, I didn’t mess with it. However, looking at the bottom end threads, it doesn’t seem to me that it can be reversed.
The rear groove has, more or less, 2mm in height and the diameter is similar to the one in the head, 20.3mm:

Hope this helps.

BTW, due to the tension created by the pocket clip, it cannot be used “cover” the switch to hinder accidental activation. The clip presses the switch activating it!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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MascaratumB thank you very much! I appreciate your thorough response.

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JaredM wrote:
MascaratumB thank you very much! I appreciate your thorough response.

You’re welcome Wink
Hope it helped Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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Helpful indeed!

One more question, what diffuser cap are you using in your UI videos?

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JaredM wrote:
Helpful indeed!

One more question, what diffuser cap are you using in your UI videos?


Nice Wink

The diffuser is the one of the Wuben E05, that fits several lights, including this one (although I stretched it a bit Silly )

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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I have the same M200 with the LH351 emitter. My beam is quite yellow/green with tint shift to purple. Did yours look like that before the TIR? Without changing the lens, is my best bet a minus green filter or DC fix? The LH351 5000k looks greener in the M200 than the 4000k SST-20 in my Convoy S2+. Pretty bad. Also, I have some 219B R9080 emitters in 4000k. How tough would a swap be and are they compatible?

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Ace7 wrote:
I have the same M200 with the LH351 emitter. My beam is quite yellow/green with tint shift to purple. Did yours look like that before the TIR? Without changing the lens, is my best bet a minus green filter or DC fix? The LH351 5000k looks greener in the M200 than the 4000k SST-20 in my Convoy S2+. Pretty bad. Also, I have some 219B R9080 emitters in 4000k. How tough would a swap be and are they compatible?

Try DC Fix first to correct the tint shift and see how the blended beam looks like for colour.
If the tint after adding DC Fix is still too green/yellow for your taste, then you would have to add a Lee Minus Green filter to correct it.
You will have to get creative if you use both. I would probably add the Minus Green under the lens, and the DC Fix on top.

If you use only the Minus Green Filter with DC Fix, it will render all parts of the existing beam to be less green, but you will still have the rainbow effect with tint shift across the beam.

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Fyi, I got the battery tube off fairly easy on my M200, also removed the bezel easily as well. All I used was my blue sticky gloves. The battery tube had traces of red stuff, probably RED Loctite. I partially pulled out the driver (NOT RECOMMENDED) to check it out, and trying to insert it back in, accidentally pushed the switch clean off the PCB - ouch!! 

Now I'll have to fully de-solder the MCPCB to get the driver fully out to do the switch repair. Fortunately the switch and pads on the PCB are undamaged so should be able to re-solder easily, but not sure yet how to re-assembly it without doing the same thing -- I'll find out soon I hope. Interesting the switch was held on with such little solder on the 2 ends and that's it - nothing through the PCB or holes in the PCB for alignment for making it more secure. But really, there's probably no need to secure the switch any better - it's a nice feel switch - one of the better, if not best.

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Tom E wrote:

Fyi, I got the battery tube off fairly easy on my M200, also removed the bezel easily as well. All I used was my blue sticky gloves. The battery tube had traces of red stuff, probably RED Loctite. I partially pulled out the driver (NOT RECOMMENDED) to check it out, and trying to insert it back in, accidentally pushed the switch clean off the PCB – ouch!! 


Now I’ll have to fully de-solder the MCPCB to get the driver fully out to do the switch repair. Fortunately the switch and pads on the PCB are undamaged so should be able to re-solder easily, but not sure yet how to re-assembly it without doing the same thing — I’ll find out soon I hope. Interesting the switch was held on with such little solder on the 2 ends and that’s it – nothing through the PCB or holes in the PCB for alignment for making it more secure. But really, there’s probably no need to secure the switch any better – it’s a nice feel switch – one of the better, if not best.

Thanks for the report on this Tom E , and sorry for damaging the switch Oops
I bet your skills will fastly overcome that situation Wink

I never thought of taking the battery tube out, as I don’t have plans to mod the driver nor the switch! This flashlight is near perfect as it is, specially for the efficiency, design (despite the pocket clip) and UI!
I certainly wouldn’t want to mess with it!
Thanks for your report, though, as someone may wanna take a look at the internals Silly

If you can, please take some photos, just to document how it looks like. Always helpful to have some details on that Wink
And good luck Cool Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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I'm actually working on a Amazon review for this light right now, so took some pics. Not a complete tear down yet, but will be taking more of driver details with the "removable" switch. The weight of this is incredibly light - bout same as an 18650:

Comparison shot showing how really thin it is. Length, of course, can't be as short as the factory triples since the reflector has some depth to it, but still length isn't too bad From left to right: OTR M6, Amutorch AX2, the M200, Convoy S2+, Sofirn SC31B

With the batt tube off, the driver is fairly loose - nothing holding it in. The blue SS trim looks really nice on this light:

Standard XPL, guessing about a 3B/D or 2B/D. Looks like a thermistor on the copper MCPCB:

 

You see how small the LED wires are? Tiny, like maybe 28 AWG or so. This light seems to do better on a better cell, so betta if I replaced the wires with heavier gauge ones, might see a boost.

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I got the repair done - M200 is back in working order! I left the stock LED wires - they are teflon actually. The backside of the MCPCB was ugly:

After sanded with 2000 GRIT paper:

The MCPCB is 16 mm x 1.0 mm - pretty thin.

Here's the driver with the "removable" switch:

After the re-soldering:

Other side:

I realized I had to remove the switch, then install the driver, than re-install the switch in order to get it to go together, otherwise I ran the risk of poking the switch off again. So using a spanning wrench, I got the switch off. The big plunger was hitting the switch, so it must be tight up against it:

So, last part was re-soldering in the MCPCB, and while at it, replaced the grease with MX4:

Testing the driver:

All soldered, back to working:

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^ Excellent work, Tom! Thumbs Up Beer Star

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Tom E, that was quite a work Shocked
You then had to solder the switch from the to again Oops
Incredible work, but I’d sweat like a pig (if they sweat…) to do it and make the flashlight work again !!
I am also amazed that the MCPCB is so thin. I guess that Skilhunt doesn’t want to force the heat in such a small light…although it turbo can be re-enacted over and over Silly

Was that white stuff silicone? And was it originally on the driver? I guess it would be to avoid some shorts rathed than heat dissipation, am I right?

Thanks again for your tear down and information, and congrats for making it work again Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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I was also a little surprised at the thinness of the MCPCB but it's pretty common in mass produced lights - maybe weight, cost, keeping the length to a min, etc.. If you add 0.5 mm to the height, then you have to add it all the way up to the overall length of the light, unless you cut something else down by 0.5 mm, such as reflector depth. They seem to tout the efficiency of the SMO design, so probably wouldn't cut that.

I assume the white stuff is mainly for thermal protection (potting) the way it's applied. When I modded the H15, they had some sort of stuff on even thicker:

Old driver became a dumb contact board:

Lightbringer
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Slapped on some diffusion film… not bad. Might keep it.

The bigger hotspot seemed to be a little too crisp and circular. Figured I’d be using this puppy inside/around the house more, so floodier would be nice.

It also mixes the beam to almost homogeneous, too. My ’351s all seemed to have a hint of green, not objectionable like my Quarks, but still a bit there. Maybe tint-separation was bringing it out, hotspot vs spill.

Behind the film, the blended beam seems to be better. On a solid off-white wall, the slight green tinge seems there, but shining it on Generic Stuff, even white magazine-paper and some envelopes, there doesn’t seem to be any green tinge at all.

Reds and browns are soooooo nice, though.

So okay, it won’t throw anymore, but it’s a great flooder for, like I said, around the house. And it’s totally reversible.

Great, so now my M200 and E03 will be in competition…

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

varbos
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So what is the purpose of thermistor on the board? We know the stepdown is timed, not temperature-controlled.

Is it a safety feature, in case the light malfunctions or the user does not respect the timed step-down ?