Emisar D4V2 LED swap out

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ftumch33
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Emisar D4V2 LED swap out

Curious if anyone had ordered one LED and then swapped out the emitters for something else.
I have the brass version but not really digging the XPLs.
How difficult would it be to swap them out for Nichia 219b/c or maybe even the Samsung LH351D?

id30209
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I did, swapped sst20 fb4 for FA3.

You need to be carefull with 4 tiny aux board wires, other then that it’s a regular solder job

WTB  Jetbeam TCR1  &  Titanium 47 2xAA Quark

Firelight2
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Definitely not the quickest or easiest emitter swap, but it’s doable. I did it with an aluminum D4V2.

1. Desolder the 4 tiny aux LED wires – these are extremely small. I recommend using a fine-tip soldering iron
2. Unscrew and remove the aux LED board.
3. Desolder the driver wires and remove the star.
4. Reflow off the old emitters and on your new emitters.
5. Replace the stock thermal grease with fresh grease.
6. Reinstall the main board back into the light. This can be tricky as you have 6 wires that need to fit through the center hole in the star. It’s a very tight squeeze. I soldered long guidewires to the end of each of these wires and used them to thread the wires through the star. I desoldered and removed the guidewires once the star was in place.
7. Solder the leadwires back to the star.
8. Insert the Aux LED board and then solder the 4 tiny wires back in place. Each bondpad on the aux LED board is marked so you don’t have to guess which color wire goes in which spot. NOTE: Do not force the aux LED board into place over the main LEAD wires. If the main LED wires are out of position they might cause the aux LED board to not lay flat. If you try to force it down anyways the thin plastic aux LED board will probably break. Instead, remove the aux LED board and resolder the main LED wires on the star.

ftumch33
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I mean I`m not doing it, I don`t have the tools/patience/skill to do it lol.
How was the tint/beam after your mod?
Is there anyone that is recommended to do mods on BLF?

Lexel
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Firelight2 wrote:
Definitely not the quickest or easiest emitter swap, but it’s doable. I did it with an aluminum D4V2.

1. Desolder the 4 tiny aux LED wires – these are extremely small. I recommend using a fine-tip soldering iron
2. Unscrew and remove the aux LED board.
3. Desolder the driver wires and remove the star.
4. Reflow off the old emitters and on your new emitters.
5. Replace the stock thermal grease with fresh grease.
6. Reinstall the main board back into the light. This can be tricky as you have 6 wires that need to fit through the center hole in the star. It’s a very tight squeeze. I soldered long guidewires to the end of each of these wires and used them to thread the wires through the star. I desoldered and removed the guidewires once the star was in place.
7. Solder the leadwires back to the star.
8. Insert the Aux LED board and then solder the 4 tiny wires back in place. Each bondpad on the aux LED board is marked so you don’t have to guess which color wire goes in which spot. NOTE: Do not force the aux LED board into place over the main LEAD wires. If the main LED wires are out of position they might cause the aux LED board to not lay flat. If you try to force it down anyways the thin plastic aux LED board will probably break. Instead, remove the aux LED board and resolder the main LED wires on the star.

the tip size does not matter, unless its something expected on a 200W iron
even most big tips you usually solder MCPCBs have an edge or rim that’s pretty small

what helps a lot
- a good no acid flux
- a regulated iron tip temperature so you don’t kill the glue below the pad, or instantly pulling the iron after the solder melted

ftumch33
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Can anyone recommend a soldering iron?
I might actually give this a go Thumbs Up

Lexel
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Station
HW version should be best 2.1S
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32837522724.html
newest revision
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32950981884.html

the price went up a bit over Corona virus time

Mobile
(needs a 19-24V PSU like Laptop ones, more voltage more power)
https://www.banggood.com/MINI-TS100-Digital-OLED-Programmable-Interface-DC-5525-Soldering-Iron-Station-Built-in-STM32-Chip-p-984214.html

T12 tips


pro:
- you have in each tip the heating element, so if it dies you need no expensive replacement than other stations have
con:
- small variation between tips in the temperature reading

ftumch33
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Wow, that is a pretty cool soldering station.
I might actually order this today.
Rosin core solder is out nowadays?

Lexel
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ftumch33 wrote:
Wow, that is a pretty cool soldering station. I might actually order this today. Rosin core solder is out nowadays?

I highly suggest not to buy solder wire in China, buy a reputable brand like Kester made in your country
for general driver soldering 0.75mm is a good choice for diameter
the stuff I ordered in China for test went directly in the trash bin after trying to solder it at 295°C

ftumch33
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This might be a longshot but is there a way to flash the firmware to something else?

Lexel
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ftumch33 wrote:
This might be a longshot but is there a way to flash the firmware to something else?

sure you can flash NarsilM, Ramping IOS or your own firmware for Atiny85
just getting the Aux code merged into another firmware is a big programming job
Firelight2
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Lexel wrote:
ftumch33 wrote:
This might be a longshot but is there a way to flash the firmware to something else?

sure you can flash NarsilM, Ramping IOS or your own firmware for Atiny85
just getting the Aux code merged into another firmware is a big programming job

D4V2 doesn’t use ATiny85. It uses the next size up processor. I forget the model number. 1634 maybe?

The light is fairly easy to flash to new firmware using the pogo-pin flashling kit available from International Outdoors. You don’t even need to disassemble the head.

ftumch33
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D`oh! Flashing the light was intended for another post I have on the Astrolux S42