Are my estimations correct? (parasitic drain in different lights)

41 posts / 0 new
Last post
Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5856
Location: Germany

kennybobby wrote:
The fuse will have a tiny wire inside going from one end to the other—it could be the size of a hair so you might need a lens to see it. But if it has blown then the wire will be broken or melted.

If the flashlight or whatever is being measured has a high in-rush current during turn-on, then that could blow the fuse. These sort of nuisance blows are common until you get experienced with measuring current and how to avoid such situations. So buy a pack of 5 fuses to have some spares.

In a pinch, you could use a piece of aluminum foil wrapped around the fuse to make an emergency repair. But understand that you will have no protection against an accidental over-current. But if you had a known low current situation then you could use this trick to make a measurement to prove that your meter is functionally okay. This is an advanced trick that i can’t really explain, someone would need to show you how to do this, and it could really damage your meter if the current was too high for the range setting. If you have any breadboard resistors then you could make a test circuit with limited current and this would be a safer way to check the meter. Good Luck, and avoid the copper (Cu)

those fuses often blow where you can’t see it
anyway any fuse without sand —> return meter any buy something better
Meter without fuse on High range the same, as far as you don’t count traces as fuse

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 11 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4899
Location: Portugal

Lexel wrote:
you should use your DMM to check the fuse

[…]

My advise take the DMM and throw it as far as you can, walk 1 meter and try to pick it up at the distance you can trust it
then buy something a little more expensive tested by HKJ
https://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMReviews15.html all look bad, you cant trust UNI-T they cut internals in DMMs older are usually better then they save cost on same model number

any Bistro HD driver should draw 4-5mA in moon, you should be able to read that easily in 200mA range
3.9A the leads plus DMM reduce the current like crazy, Luxeon V x4 should draw more like 15-20A

I have no DMM to check it Facepalm I guess I really need to get one that allows me to do all the tests I may need. I don’t work with anything else that needs this type of measurements, just flashlights, so I will check which one is the more suitable for it Wink

Well, by this time I can throw it very far or I will crack the neighbours windows Big Smile But when Covid leaves, I will surely get a new one and eventually practice throwing this one (although the other functions work).

Thanks for the explanation about the readings. I guess the multimeter is limiting the reads on the flashlight too. I never measured the current draw for the OL Contest, I may do it when I get the DMM.

kennybobby wrote:
The fuse will have a tiny wire inside going from one end to the other—it could be the size of a hair so you might need a lens to see it. But if it has blown then the wire will be broken or melted.

If the flashlight or whatever is being measured has a high in-rush current during turn-on, then that could blow the fuse. These sort of nuisance blows are common until you get experienced with measuring current and how to avoid such situations. So buy a pack of 5 fuses to have some spares.

In a pinch, you could use a piece of aluminum foil wrapped around the fuse to make an emergency repair. But understand that you will have no protection against an accidental over-current. But if you had a known low current situation then you could use this trick to make a measurement to prove that your meter is functionally okay. This is an advanced trick that i can’t really explain, someone would need to show you how to do this, and it could really damage your meter if the current was too high for the range setting. If you have any breadboard resistors then you could make a test circuit with limited current and this would be a safer way to check the meter. Good Luck, and avoid the copper (Cu)

When I open the MM again I will check the fuse to see that thin wire, thanks for the detail.

Yes, I guess I may have put the probes in the wrong holes, and while trying to measure things without the correct settings Oops Perhpas it could have been prevented if the material was better but…it doesn’t matter now. I just need to learn what and how to measure without messing things Grad

Hum… I guess I won’t try that mod/trick as I don’t feel skilled enough to do that (as you may notice Silly ). I would up damaging the rest of the functions that are still working and lose it all!
Still, thank you for the tip and I believe that some people may benefit from that!!
I also don’t have spare materials and normally I don’t deal with that kind of products, so wouldn’t be able to make that test!

Actually…now I think I shouldn’t have started this test at all Big Smile

Ahah, did you read my post on the “Why Cu?” thread? Silly

Thanks again for your help folks! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5856
Location: Germany

MascaratumB wrote:

I have no DMM to check it Facepalm I guess I really need to get one that allows me to do all the tests I may need. I don’t work with anything else that needs this type of measurements, just flashlights, so I will check which one is the more suitable for it Wink

Well, by this time I can throw it very far or I will crack the neighbours windows Big Smile But when Covid leaves, I will surely get a new one and eventually practice throwing this one (although the other functions work).

Thanks for the explanation about the readings. I guess the multimeter is limiting the reads on the flashlight too. I never measured the current draw for the OL Contest, I may do it when I get the DMM.

When I open the MM again I will check the fuse to see that thin wire, thanks for the detail.

Yes, I guess I may have put the probes in the wrong holes, and while trying to measure things without the correct settings Oops Perhpas it could have been prevented if the material was better but…it doesn’t matter now. I just need to learn what and how to measure without messing things Grad

Hum… I guess I won’t try that mod/trick as I don’t feel skilled enough to do that (as you may notice Silly ). I would up damaging the rest of the functions that are still working and lose it all!
Still, thank you for the tip and I believe that some people may benefit from that!!
I also don’t have spare materials and normally I don’t deal with that kind of products, so wouldn’t be able to make that test!

Actually…now I think I shouldn’t have started this test at all Big Smile

Ahah, did you read my post on the “Why Cu?” thread? Silly

Thanks again for your help folks! Thumbs Up

still you can check any fuse with any meter that can read resistance
nearly 0 Ohm fuse OK
no resistance fuse dead
I doubt the meter uses the fuse for voltage readings, but if it does that would be bad design but reveal dead fuse instantly

the meter is so stupid designed you can’t check the fuse without disassembling it with the same meter, would a regular 4 terminal be too much costs or is it to get it smaller?

for current measurements on flashlights you need a clamp meter if you go above 1A as otherwise you always
- lower the current by adding more resistance on DD lights
- increase current on boost/buck drivers or lower depending if the voltage drops too low

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 11 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4899
Location: Portugal

Lexel wrote:

still you can check any fuse with any meter that can read resistance
nearly 0 Ohm fuse OK
no resistance fuse dead
I doubt the meter uses the fuse for voltage readings, but if it does that would be bad design but reveal dead fuse instantly

the meter is so stupid designed you can’t check the fuse without disassembling it with the same meter, would a regular 4 terminal be too much costs or is it to get it smaller?

for current measurements on flashlights you need a clamp meter if you go above 1A as otherwise you always
- lower the current by adding more resistance on DD lights
- increase current on boost/buck drivers or lower depending if the voltage drops too low

Hum, I just don’t have any other tool measurement tool Oops
So I’d need to dismantle the MM , take the fuse out and then measure it with the MM, right? Would it work?

You are right, I was thinking right and saying wrong: I will get a clamp meter !!! Not a DMM Facepalm
That’s what I should have bought from the beginning!

Are there any good suggestions for one? Cheap and effective would be the best in this case Innocent

The same store were I bought the multimeter has them, but they are more expensive and now I don’t know about their reliability…

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3427
Location: North Carolina

I know your gonna think this is a bit strange recommending the same brand name but
the UT210E clamp meter seems like a very decent meter. I purchased one after several members here recommended it.
It’s worked fine in the year or so I have had it.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/
.
HKJ gave it a thorough test here. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56198

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5856
Location: Germany
moderator007 wrote:
I know your gonna think this is a bit strange recommending the same brand name but the UT210E clamp meter seems like a very decent meter. I purchased one after several members here recommended it. It’s worked fine in the year or so I have had it. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/ . HKJ gave it a thorough test here. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56198

Its OK, but has its drawbacks compared to more expensive ones
in DC mode you always got to zero out the meter
the calibration is permanent off in DC ranges too low about 5%

after a lot of use and already one internal cleanup a few months ago my meter does not behave well,
seems again internal selector ring makes not good contact, readings are wrong or jump
To be worse lately if I touch it on the case a little on the top are it goes out completely, I suspect the battery contacts to conduct not good
It may need some conductive grease or that makes it even worse, gold plating would help on the selector copper plated steel sping contactsI have it right now open again and try to bend the copper plated spring contacts more

I use it only above 10A DC or measuring heavily PWM-ed Current (which the Benning has problems in Auto range mode)very few times

I got a Benning CM11
- needs no zero out
the new meter is only rated 10A DC max.
but it measures also just a few mA with good precision down to 0.1mA resolution

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3427
Location: North Carolina

I agree Lexel it’s a Okay meter and as usual more expensive models will have better accuracy and protection with more features.
Not everyone needs a precise meter though or wants to spend hundreds of dollars. Sometimes a good deal can be had for a very decent meter.
This is just a decent general purpose meter that seems to be okay for hobbyist.
I spent $300 on a fluke 87V years ago and would do it again if it failed for some reason but not everyone will feel as I do and would be fine for what they measure with a $20 meter. It really all depends on if you need it or not and have the cash to spare. But I do like having quality tools that will last and work when ask, it doesn’t feel as though I spent so much when they last for years and years. General speaking spending more money will buy you better more accurate products. That clamp meter Lexel looks like a very nice accurate meter. Thumbs Up

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Online
Last seen: 6 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2991
Location: The Land of Enchantment

great post!

clear and easy to understand, for a beginner like me

thank you for taking the time to explain the differences in prices and choices

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Terry Oregon
Terry Oregon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 10/21/2017 - 17:03
Posts: 553
Location: Beaverton Oregon

If anyone desires to stay with Fluke, this lower-end Fluke is what I use for uA measurements on my lights. This model was intended for sale in China (why it's cheaper), but you can get it in the states for about $135.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 11 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4899
Location: Portugal
moderator007 wrote:
I know your gonna think this is a bit strange recommending the same brand name but the UT210E clamp meter seems like a very decent meter. I purchased one after several members here recommended it. It’s worked fine in the year or so I have had it. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/ . HKJ gave it a thorough test here. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56198

Not weird at all, I see many people using Uni-T tools, and that was what took me to get this small one. I tought it would be better, though.
Thanks for the suggestion.

Lexel wrote:

Its OK, but has its drawbacks compared to more expensive ones
[…]

I will have to ponder those drawbacks and see which will fit my needs the most. I surely don’t need a super accurate or super expensive clamp meter because of my type of use.
Thanks for the suggestion.

Terry Oregon wrote:

If anyone desires to stay with Fluke, this lower-end Fluke is what I use for uA measurements on my lights. This model was intended for sale in China (why it’s cheaper), but you can get it in the states for about $135.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/

Thanks for the suggestion Terry! It may be a little ($100) above of what I can spend on a measuring tool like this Silly
Not being an expert guy or a tester/developer I will be looking to have one with a good compromise between what it can measure and what it costs.

I’ll check your suggestions and other tests from HKJ! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Pages