Brinyte B158 with CSLNM1.TG

17 posts / 0 new
Last post
enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina
Brinyte B158 with CSLNM1.TG

Hello friends, I decided to update 4 leds of my flashlights, the 4 chosen were:

-Convoy L2
-Convoy C8
-Lumintop GT Mini
-Brinyte B158

All 4 have the CSLNM1.TG led with the DRIVER from Simon.

I have the problem with the Brinyte, the led turns blue and after 4 minutes it takes a considerable temperature, do you know what it can be?
Thank you

polarweis
polarweis's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 05/31/2017 - 17:05
Posts: 452

Does it turn blue right away? 5 amp is pretty high for this led. I think around 4.5 amp is safer for this led.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina
polarweis wrote:
Does it turn blue right away? 5 amp is pretty high for this led. I think around 4.5 amp is safer for this led.

That’s right, right away, maybe it’s a lot 5A, but it has a temperature regulator, it shouldn’t be 5A, right?

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 2109
Location: Central IL

Eh, if they’re all being driven from the same driver and only one turns blue like that, I’d be willing to bet that you have a short on that flashlight. Could you use a meter (preferably a clamp meter with a short heavy gauge wire) to check how many amps are actually getting drawn? If it’s “only” 5 amps, then you’ve got a bad thermal path somewhere because that thing is overheating. Accidentally skip the thermal paste? Is the pill not screwed down tightly? I’d suspect a short though.

virencelights
virencelights's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 19:53
Posts: 1232
Location: Knightsbridge, London, UK

short

Virence Custom Built; ArmyTek Viking Pro E21A 6500k 9080 Quadtrix, Bob Sir Bob Custom Built Zebralight SC64c 219b 4500k 9080.
Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 9080 5700k, Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina

Thanks for answering, I have done the test with the multimeter and it extracts 4.35 amps.
It has good quality thermal paste and the led is not screwed, but with a round plastic nut.
Obviously I have a short but I do not know how to verify it, at first glance the pill is fine, where can the fault be?

Thanks!!!

Marc E
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 05/18/2013 - 08:14
Posts: 339
Location: South West UK

First place to look for a short would be the LED negative to the body of the light, that would bypass the driver and go direct drive from the battery.

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina
Marc E wrote:
First place to look for a short would be the LED negative to the body of the light, that would bypass the driver and go direct drive from the battery.

Redlyne22
Redlyne22's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 55 min ago
Joined: 12/25/2017 - 07:02
Posts: 201
Location: United States

After 4 full minutes it turns blue? My first guess would be that brass pill doesnt have as good thermal properties when compared to aluminium. And the mcpcb is rather small also.

I think its simply getting heat soaked. Maybe try adding thermal paste in between the pill and bodys mainly on the threads.

Sometimes being a newb is the best part of a hobbie

Nicolicous
Nicolicous's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 04/16/2016 - 08:28
Posts: 1533
Location: Australia

yup brass is lesser thermal property compare to aluminium.

Nico -.-

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina

Redlyne22 wrote:
After 4 full minutes it turns blue? My first guess would be that brass pill doesnt have as good thermal properties when compared to aluminium. And the mcpcb is rather small also.

I think its simply getting heat soaked. Maybe try adding thermal paste in between the pill and bodys mainly on the threads.

the flashlight already starts with blue tint, the photo of the post has 24 seconds on, after 2 minutes it already reaches a considerable temperature

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 2109
Location: Central IL

If the body is heating up considerably then heat is getting pulled away even if the brass pill has worse thermal properties than aluminum.

If it’s generating more heat than your other lights, there pretty much has to be a short somewhere.

So, it turns blue before 24 seconds? What happens if you remove the pill and connect it directly to a battery? Don’t do that for too long but if it still turns blue right away then you have a short in the pill itself.

I’d say it’s probably best to pull the pill apart, visually check it, and put it back together. Those B158 pills aren’t fun. Good luck.

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina

hello, eh decided to take the pill apart, desolder and solder again, the blue color is still in force and its temperature is controlled, leaving it on for 5 minutes, it reaches 39 °, is it normal?

I found a post where the same thing happens to another user: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65373

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1884
Location: Ohio

If you measured 4.35A at the tail then there doesn’t seem to be a short. Maybe the LED is not soldered well to the MCPCB or the shelf is not flat? You could swap the LED for one of your other ones to see if you get a different result.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 min 35 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16705
Location: Amsterdam

I suspect a bad reflow, air trapped under the led. At these power levels a brass pill has no problem at all removing the heat.

enesrap
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 06/23/2016 - 14:32
Posts: 57
Location: Argentina
djozz wrote:
I suspect a bad reflow, air trapped under the led. At these power levels a brass pill has no problem at all removing the heat.

I have tried it with an XP-G2 (dedomed) and it does not raise temperature, I have removed the thermal paste for fear that it is too much, it does not give me a good feeling that the LED is supported only by a nut, apart it has a centering ring

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 2109
Location: Central IL

If it works fine with a different emitter, I think Jos might be onto something… less-than-optimal reflow. I think this LED has shown that it can be sensitive to the execution of the reflow. I hate saying this though, as that appears to be one of Led4Power’s boards and I know he does good work.