The Best Batteries to Stock Up On.

Hi all,
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These are what I commonly use in flashlights and all other devices. I also review a portable battery station (this item sent to me for review), and a really bright portable lighting solution.

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If you know of a great cell please post in the comments so we can all benefit from your experience.

Of real interest, I’ll be following this thread.
My first post!! :smiley:

It obviously depends on which/what type of torch I am using them in.

Most of my lights require High Drains. I use Molicel P26A for those. I also use a lot of MJ1/GA’s for lights that do not require a ton of amp draw. Usually single cell EDC light.

I have an Acebeam X65 MINI Which is “OUT FOR DELIVERY”! :+1:

I believe the cells they give with the light are VTC6 . They are Protected and BT. I am also going to test the light with my MJ1 UP BT and may buy some more P26A for spares and back up.

P.S. For 26650 I use Golisi/Aspire or the Vapcell/Shockli 5500mAh cell.Again, depends on the light.

Thanks for the thread.

There are 5 cells I use in my lights: Sony (now Murata) vtc6 (or Vapcell rewrap) Sanyo 18650GA, 18650 laptop pulls and nimh AA, AAA from IKEA (Laadaloops). I ordered some Shockli 14500 1000mah from China, but they’re still in transit.

Oh that’s easy…LG HG2! :smiling_imp:

Hey! I found your BLF LT1 review on youtube and now you’ve got a new fan! Thanks.

I don’t speak from personal experience, but there are some great cells at the local jail… :wink:

That OKPRO would make a pretty good trolling motor battery! (Provided it was kept dry, of course.) I’d like one of those for camping.

The Tenergy Centura white D cells do seem good, I have 4 of ’em; but their AA cells are worthless IMO. I bought a couple dozen and within 2 years I’ve thrown at least a third of them away because they didn’t terminate properly (on various good quality chargers!). I’m not keeping AAs that accept 3200 to 4000 mAh of charge and then only show 1250-1400 on discharge.

Of 18650s, I’ve got mostly 30Qs, some VTC6es, house-brand Imalents, and Nitecore/NexTorch/Sofirn/etc. come-with cells.

30Qs tend to be my go-to 18650s.

21700s, mostly come-with Sofirns.

26650s, baby-blue LKs.

AAs/AAAs, mostly eneloops and amaloops, but a pile of EBL 14500 and Baseline LiFePO4 AAs. The EBLs and BLs work fine for the price.

I’m not sanguine about protected cells except when used in multicell lights.

Sure it ain’t the charger? If the charger overcooks the AAs, maybe it isn’t terminating the charge correctly.

Like trying to charge a teeny little 10440 in a regular charger, and hitting it with 1A or so. Ouch.

I once had a bad charger overcook AA NiCds because it didn’t know when to stop. The cells would start fizzing and would stink like vinegar(ish).

what devices does LifePo4 fit?

Any dual chemistry device. It’s a flat 3.2V from practically right out of the charger ’til almost completely spent.

Even my GTmicros can use one, but I never did a side-by-side comparison of LFP-powered vs Li-ion. It’ll look like a Li-ion cell that’s almost spent, but it does work. Ditto my SP10s, (Xeno) E03s, etc., but those are dual-chem, vs Li-ion only like the ’micro.

Also can usually be used in AA-only lights, brighter than alkaleaks/NiMH, while a Li-ion might pop the driver.

Works great in 2×AA devices with one LFP cell and one dummy cell. Voltage doesn’t drop as with a pair of alkaleaks.

Nope, same bad result whether I used the Powerex MH-C9000 or the Gyrfalcon All-44. And no such problems charging my loops. Gotta be the cells.

There’s no such thing as an AA of that capacity. The highest I’ve personally seen is 2500 ’ish. I had some PowerEx 2800mah nimh that on my Zanflare only tested to that on the lowest discharge/charge, and the Zanflare never overcharges or grossly undercharges (nimh, li-ion, nicad). The All44 is a great charger too that I doubt terminates too early/late. Tenergy makes good sub-C and D/C cells, but I wouldn’t buy their AA/AAA. Stick with Energizer, Duracell 2450’s, Laddaloops, or Eneloops-anything made in Japan for AA/AAA.

Thanks for another great video, love the enthusiasm! I agree the Shockli 26650 cells are great all-rounders. I generally go for a mix between medium-high drain and high capacity. Here’s what I mostly use:

  • 26650: Shockli 5500mAh (black and white)
  • 21700: Molicel P42A for high drain, Samsung 50E for high capacity
  • 18650: Samsung 30Q for high drain, Samsung 35E for high capacity. I’m not keen on solder-blobbing so use Sanyo NCR18650GA cells when button-tops are required.
  • 18350: Shockli 1150mAh (black and gold)
  • 14500: Shockli 1000mAh (black and gold)
  • AA/AAA: Eneloops!

Quick addendum: I got a pair of 7A Vapcells that I wanted to try in my ’micro, see if I’d get any better performance vs the EBLs I got offa Amazon. Couldn’t tell any difference. Never saw much difference between ceiling and turbo with the EBLs, and it was kind of a letdown to see no perceptible difference with the Vaps, either.

Plus, the top-notch customer service I got from EBL when I had only 1 wonky cell, I’d definitely recommend the EBLs as quite decent 14500s.

Nb: the red wraps I have don’t exist anymore, but they have new ones in white wraps, so can’t really comment on those specifically.

I ordered a pair of samsung 30q and sony vtc6’s I believe. Just in case of supply disruption. I’ve acquired more lights, and I like to be able to remove a battery, and put a replacement in, then charge the one I removed. I got my batteries from Imrbatteries.com. They have a pretty good selection of 18650 I believe, but not a very good one of 18350 or 26650.

It seems like the AmazonBasics AA/AAA hi capacity cells are now sourced in China.

I have some of the grey cells sourced in Japan and they all hold around 2350mah. Problem is their internal resistance have all gone up. All but a small handful of these cells have ir ratings of under 100. I guess this is just a battery “aging”? Can anything be done to keep ir in batteries low?

I have a few packs of ikea Ladda on order. Hopefully they’re still from the Japanese plant.

That said, I also have lower capacity Amazon Basics AA’s made in China (rated 2000mah) and they continue to hold more than their rated capacity, with internal resistance all around ~120. So they seem to be far from being “junk”.

Also have some almost 10yr old Eneloops that hold just over 1800mah, internal resistance ~120 as well.

I have the IKEA ladda AAA and AA (white ones) amd all are made in Japan. There is only one factory in Japan that makes LSD nimh batteries, by the way (probably makes them for different buyers like Panasonic, Amazon, Fujitsu, and others) and the other is in China. I would imagine that some of the better ones are from Japan though. I’ve been very pleased with my laddaloops! Like $20 for 2 packs of AA amd AAA. Eneloop pros were like $18 for a 4 pack of AA’s.

I picked up some more Ladda-loops today, and have a few new Olight 2600mAH (Panasonic) 18650s on the way

What current do you charge at? If it’s too low the delta V might not be enough to trigger termination, though i’d expect them to be fully charged if that’s the case rather than terminating too early.