First Impressions Nitecore EX10 Ti and EX11.2

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jon_slider
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
The contact ring was de-burred (the edges were sharp/burred and the split gap too) with a rubber diamond embedded hand hone/stone if you will. Maybe the contact ring was hanging up? It is a split ring.

. It actuates buttery smooth now…even tried out different piston springs..

beautiful work
my guess is the bottom of the contact ring hanging up is a likely cause for the light reading a double tap from an intended single press to off

making the contact ring travel smoothly without hanging up seems like an priority focus.

so, I pulled the battery out of my ex11.2 and just pumped the button a few hundred times while watching a movie.. its much smoother now, and does not hang up..

Im hopeful not to see any more unintended failures to switch off, going to low instead by mistake.. thumbs crossed

AmbientSix wrote:
I bet they sacrificed a debounce capacitor for the sake of board space.

the v11.2 driver has a lower low and a lower parasitic drain than V10, but uses more parts and has three added features that work from OFF

I have never had a v10 fail to turn off, nor mistake a sigle press for a request for lowest mode, the way my v11.2 lights have done.

I suspect there is a component on the V11.2 driver that gets confused, in a way the V10 does not.. unconfirmed..

I believe the springs on the contact ring are also softer on V10 than v11.2.. possibly allowing a less ambiguous single contact signal, when pressing once for off

speculation
I note the EX piston has a longer travel before the contact ring is fully compressed than my D10. this suggests the D10 pistons are slightly longer, and there is a smaller gap between the end of the piston and the contact ring.

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Funny never had a failure to feed… I mean turn on.. if it was mechanical you should have failures to feed.. the LED..

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Funny never had a failure to feed… I mean turn on.. if it was mechanical you should have failures to feed.. the LED..

from off
I get failure to feed reliably if I dont press the EX piston down deep enough
I also get momentary on and off if I dont hold the EX piston down long enough

from on
I get failure to turn off, and I get low instead
I suspect caused by my switch press and release timing being too fast

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I found I could turn the driver/pill/ reflector assembly by twisting the driver, also I could push/pull the driver/reflector assembly when assembled in the head. I added a thicker o-ring to the Lens/ reflector assembly to tighten it all up

that sounds like a good way to also move the contact ring closer to the piston edges

So there is a shallower travel to make contact.. I think that is a good thing.. imo the EX piston travel is longer than necessary for a crisp switch action

the EX piston travel is longer, more like a DAO trigger
the D piston feels shorter, more like a SA trigger

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Never had a failure to turn ON from OFF …OR

. Turn ON after setting the ramp to any Level….

. OR after a battery change where it turns on in LOW then I ramp up..

. I have had it making contact to ramp, it would dwell for a bit, then start to ramp…

. Never a failure to turn ON.. just OFF

. Got any pics of the other side of these drivers… I had mine out but forgot to take pics…

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Got any pics of the other side of these drivers… I had mine out but forgot to take pics

no, I have not figured out how to pull the driver out of the pill
any tips welcome

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jon_slider wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Got any pics of the other side of these drivers… I had mine out but forgot to take pics

no, I have not figured out how to pull the driver out of the pill
any tips welcome


I used a skinny pin punch and went thru one of the anti rotate holes where the reflector centering device locates into on the pill….low level light and magnifying visor recommended Wink

. More or Less what I’m seeing is not a mechanical contact issue… like the split ring is missing the signal ring on the driver… in my case it is NOT, or else it would or should have failures to turn on.. and it should not take 2-3-4 hits before the light turns off in any mode… imho..

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I would like to learn more about the LiFeP04 option for these Piston Drive lights.

I was talking to an old timer, who told me he never used 3.7v LiIon in them, only CR123 and 3.0v LiFeP04

here are my notes so far, mostly questions

Does LiFeP04 need a special charger? Yes

Can I use my Olight Universal charger? No

Do I want Protection? Yes

What charger should a LiFeP04 newbie buy, that can also charge eneloop and 3.7v LiIon?

here is a kit that offers unprotected cells, and a maybe dedicated charger.. neither seems ideal
https://www.batteryjunction.com/2rc375reliba.html

Got LiFeP04 and a light meter?
Can you report regulation in EX11.2 with that power source?

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LiitoKala Lii-100

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Edit: from the lii-100 listing on AE “Automatically identifies 1.2V Ni-MH / 3.7V Li-ion battery automatically. Charging mode for 3.85V b Li-ion and LiFePO4 batteries must be selected manually”

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

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I’m not having issues with the switch at all on my EX11.2. There is a slight delay before ramping, but it’s very consistent for me. I’m using a protected 16340 though, which adds some length in the tube – I think it’s possibly a bit helpful there. My only concern so far is how quickly it gets warm at max. But no funny behaviors.

Of course, I don’t have a light meter to check if the output has variance as demonstrated by jon_slider

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Scallywag wrote:
I’m not having issues with the switch at all on my EX11.2. There is a slight delay before ramping, but it’s very consistent for me. I’m using a protected 16340 though, which adds some length in the tube – I think it’s possibly a bit helpful there. My only concern so far is how quickly it gets warm at max. But no funny behaviors.

Of course, I don’t have a light meter to check if the output has variance as demonstrated by jon_slider


Your Lucky… should go play the lottery.. Wink Yep the problems are real..

Lights not shutting off, UI getting wonky, Battery drainage, Ramping anomalies ect.ect.

. I go to the back of these threads and read towards the front for the good stuff…

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312316-Nitecore-D11-...

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
. I go to the back of these threads and read towards the front for the good stuff… https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312316-Nitecore-D11-...

Some of the posts mention repairing nitecore piston drive lights – I didn’t read all the way through, does anyone mention how? Might be of use.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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I read the whole thing.. no mention of a repair, just replacing some lights solved some of the more severe issues, such as 24 hour battery drain. I had one of those, and yes, replacing solved that problem.

There is no reported fix for the lights that go to low instead of turning off.

here are my selected quotes from that thread

===

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312316&p=3771800&vie...

okwchin wrote:
The driver is only regulated between 1.7 and 3.1 volts. Anything above and below that the torch runs un-regulated. So running a NiMH, your running way below regulation, so your not getting full brightness, while on any rechargeable lithium, your getting a HUGE direct drive current. So accordingly, max on NiMH is disappointing, while Min on Lithium rechargeable is crazy bright.
The old D10 engine was regulated between 1.3 and 3.8 volts or something like that I vaguely recall from my testing. FAR more appropriate for the type of cells were using, and therefore produced far more predictable results. This D11.2 engine is just.. annoyingly lacking in key finishing elements of the design.
netprince wrote:
My light registers a double click instead of a single click at least once every 10 clicks. I have cleaned and applied deoxit gold on every contact all the way down to the contact ring on the driver board. It appears to be a driver problem. The driver should filter out double clicks that are too fast to be humanly possible. This is extremely irritating when I start from off, click, and I get SOS. Also irritating when the light is on, click, and the light drops to moonlight instead of going off (leaving the light unknowingly on, as well as forgetting the current brightness level).
chanamasala wrote:
Just got mine yesterday. Seems to go into low 20% of the time when I am trying to turn it off. Not fun.

bedazzLED wrote:
OK, I’ve tried and tried to like these two lights but I have finally had enough. They have both been back and I have replacements. Although the battery drain is not the problem now, the lights are still just plain old flaky. The PD sometimes works, the shortcuts to hi/lo more often than not don’t, sometimes turning it off actually turns it on to its lowest setting instead off, …..

I love my EX10 and D10, but I’ll be stuffed if I’m going to spend any more time with these two lights. Nitecore is off the list for me now, even though these lights look good and are good when they work.

===

my conclusions are
I like the v10 firmware without blinkies and lockout, and especially the D10 host, for its short crisp button response

the ex10 ti that started this journey for me, has a mushy button by comparison. I can cause failures to switch off, or on, or to be momentary on/off, if I press too fast or too shallow. otoh, the springs are not too stiff, I find it pleasant to use.

I find my EX11.2 buttons mushy and overly stiff by comparison.
There are failures to switch off, where I get low instead of off. From off, I sometimes get strobe or lockout when trying to turn on again..

The frequency of the switching off failures goes down if press more slowly and deliberately.

I no longer use 16340 LiIon, after seeing the runaway ramping, I switched to CR123.

CR123 drop to 5 lumens max output at 2.3v, which tells me any LiIon used should be protected, and or voltage monitored responsibly by an alert operator if using unprotected cells.

I expect 3 volt LiFeP0 4 will run regulated, unlike 3.7v LiIon

my EX11.2 have regulated output on CR123
I really like that they go down to 0.01 lumens low.

My D10 w sw45k is flawless in terms of function and button feel, using AA Eneloop. The low is 1 lumen, I wish it was lower.

My EX11.2 w 219b 3000k is a good nightstand light loaded w CR123, and the lowest level is more than low enough for my firefly needs

My EX11.2 w 219b 4500k is a fun little light, it may find a home in my car, loaded with CR123

I think the ramping UI is very cool.

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The Fix……Need a 15mm FW3 version driver that you can hand fit tightly (since it’s a press fit driver) to about 14.7mm IIRC…..

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update on my EX11.2 lights switching, and output regulation

since I stopped clicking like a madman I have not had any unintended results with my EX11.2

It has turned on and off as requested. No accidental low modes instead of off, now that I have learned to use the switch deliberately.

To me, they are great little CR123 lights, nice stable regulated output..
now that I have learned not to use 16340.

Easiest light to mod to 219b, of any I have done, with a great beam.

example of the Total Package.. clip, glow marker, and a firefly of 0.01 lumens.. tics all my indoor and nightstand boxes

Happy Mothers Day! Smile

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some conversion output comparisons, the battery is not fresh, Im most focused on the percent change between LED options…

ex11.2 #1
stock xpg
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 145

shaved 2700k lh351d
cr123 @ 2.91v
low 0.01
max 116
20% less bright than xpg

219b 4500k 9080
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 138
5% less bright than xpg

219b 3000k 9080
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 106
27% less bright than xpg

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there are a few EX11.2 left on ebay still…

and fwiw, I found a fantastic old review that is extremely informative
here are some exerpts:

okwchin wrote:
Review: Nitecore EX11.2

Power requirements for this torch is Very high on maximum, but mostly because the torch drops out of regulation  and becomes linear when RCRs are used. The driver in this torch is a high frequency PWM driven current controlled driver. PWM frequency was measured to be above the 1Khz region so there no chance of it being visible At All. This boost circuit starts at 0.6V, and is fully regulated between the voltages of 1.9V and 3.1V, with a power draw of about 2.5-3 watts. Above 3.1V the current draw shoots up considerably, reaching 2.75A at 4.2V. This is not normally attainable with normal battery cells mostly due to the internal resistance of the cells, but even at 3.7V, its still drawing 1.55 Amps (thats still almost 6 watts!) This explains the pocket rocket output (remember that the emitter is not getting the full 6 watts due to efficiency)

On the other hand, I have seen many other members who don’t like the way some torches have the same output on NiMH/lithium/RCR such as the old EX10 where there were complaints that it wasn’t any brighter on RCR. Some see the ability to get a pocket rocket when changing battery type/voltage as a positive feature, which this torch certainly delivers on when moving up to RCRs. So I will leave that up to the user to decide on this element of the design.

Parasitc drain has always been an issue with electronically switched torches, with the early EX10 drawing 0.21mA, (thats 210uA, micro amps), and the EX11 drawing a scary 5mA or so!! This EX11.2 has resolved the parasitic drain issue which plagued the EX11.2, with a measured 6.7uA draw once it properly goes to sleep. In practical terms, thats 5-10 years theoretical battery life in sleep mode from a RCR, and 10+years from a CR123. Realistically 6.7uA is not much more than a RCRs self discharge, and it’s that small now that it’s practically irrelevant. I wouldn’t even bother mechanically locking out the torch unless I was maybe planning to leave it as a backup torch somewhere where I don’t expect to be using it for more than a year.

Battery limitations are a concern, especially for people running on RCR protected cells which are commonly longer. Additionally, the circuit doesn’t seem to be optimised for RCRs with a low thats not as crazy low, and with a serious boost to output on a freshly charged RCR thats bordering crazy. I would say the torch seems to have been designed for CR123 cells, so for people who primarily use CR123s, this is THE torch to have. Its also a battery vampire for with light output down to 0.6-0.7V. The reduced compatibility with RCRs because of length issues, and mostly because of its direct drive behaviour is the reason it loses half a star,

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Good news about the EX10 driver

It runs Regulated Output on 16340 LiIon!!!! so happy

modded the LED to High CRI 219b 4500k 9080 sw45k and output tripled, now
1 lumen low
225 max
60 gram carry weight

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CRX wrote:
I don’t know if I want to compliment that collection or build you a box with some sort of separators Big Smile

did a mockup with some pick and pluck:
(pic is a link)

another option:
(pic is a link)

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Nice. Someone at pelican must be a flashlight guy lol. You can get your own epp foam and do the same if you already have a case. Cutting with a hot wire is not too difficult just don’t breathe it in!

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

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Whoa… Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash Cash

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Got my second EX11.2 inserted brand new Surefire Red 123 the third on/off cycle it stayed on Facepalm NO MORE!!!! Angry

Completely wiped the BAD little nuggets off both sides of this POS driver and mounted up a filed down 14mm to 12mm FETDD moppydrv. (I have 12mm Anduril drivers coming from Lexel)

. Sealed the bare contacts on both side of the pcb contact plate that used to be the driver with black epoxy paint, added the Golden Spring for easy smooth piston action, cheap $1.50 SS Clip and a 50.2 3volt emitter… just for gig’s

Almost 1900lm at T/O 1600lm at 30sec. and really HOT… lowest level is “moon” 4-5lm. Very responsive piston/driver re-action zero failures to Turn Off

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I have 12mm Anduril drivers coming from Lexel

sorry to hear your EX11.2 driver was flaky
congrats on your hot rod driver upgrade

if the Anduril drivers had AA compatibility and firefly lows, I might be tempted

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Pelican 1075, just 40 bucks on ebay

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thanks for the nudge in the right direction Smile

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jon_slider wrote:
Pelican 1075, just 40 bucks on ebay

![img]https://i.imgur.com/DtUMCwOl.jpg[/img]!


Sweet………. Thumbs Up
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Even with the problems reported for the EX11.2 it was too interesting a light for me to pass up, so after finding some rechargeable 3v batteries…

And replacing the emitters with sw30, sw35, and sw45k….

And adding trits so I can find them in the dark (and because I just like them)…

I have used them for a few weeks now and have found that if I do a hard press of medium length I don’t have any unexpected results. Short clicks, no matter how hard may lead to undesired results. The same for light clicks. The only failures that I have had have been when I didn’t do both of these things.

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shirnask wrote:



fantastic mods!

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