[May 8] Olight I3 UV "Free" i.e. $10

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phouton
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Lightbringer Were you one of the folks who dislikes twisties? jon_slider I think you diskliked them, yes? I’m especially curious to hear feedback from that perspective on the I3E/I3UV’s functionality.

Boaz
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I was sucked in on this one ...

$5 i'll never see again .

Smile

You have to give flight credit for having some nice limited edition colors . Love the sand and now looking forward to this green  

 

 Happy mothers day

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phouton
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Agreed, I like this metallic-sorta-army green. It’s much nicer in person than in the pictures.

Lightbringer
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phouton wrote:
Lightbringer Were you one of the folks who dislikes twisties?

Me? Naw. Physical lockout in all cases where you just switch it off.

Never had a twisty accidentally turn on in my pocket or bag.

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Lightbringer
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Mine’s still stuck in “processing” so far. Eh, weekend, so…

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phouton
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Lightbringer wrote:

Me? Naw. Physical lockout in all cases where you just switch it off.

Never had a twisty accidentally turn on in my pocket or bag.

Then I’m curious how you’ll compare it with other twisties you may have. Same here, I haven’t had any accidental turn ons.
Lightbringer
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Unno, mine’s still “processing”.

AAA twisties like the Glaree E03, Orcatorch EA01, etc., all were quite nice. The Glaree is especially cheap lightweight, and still seems pretty reliable.

Not much that can go worng with a twisty.

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jon_slider
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I have had twisties turn on momentary intermittent, in my pocket.

I do not consider twisties more reliable than clickies. Ive also had twisties skip modes, which simply never happens with clickies.

So I prefer the function of the CuTool w eSwitch, over the Cu Maratac Twisty. (whose advantage is being shorter)

here is an example of a famous single mode twisty, that is turning on and off based on lateral pressure, as happens in a pocket:

to solve the auto On problem with a twisty, it is important to untwist farther, so pressing the head towards the body, or laterally, does not produce intermittent ON.

phouton
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My C01S has a similar behavior to that Fenix E01, but not my Olight I3E, I3UV or I1R 2.

As mentioned, untwisting farther avoids this, and I’ve never had accidental turn ons, but the flakiness of the C01S’s contact annoys me. IMO it is a design issue, not a general problem with twisties.

This is why I’m particularly eager to hear opinions on the I3(x)’s functioning from those critical of twisties.

jon_slider
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phouton wrote:
IMO it is a design issue, not a general problem with twisties.

Is it a feature or a bug? Smile
depends on point of view

All twisties have the momentary On feature, when pressing the head towards the body. Unless it is unscrewed farther than the play in the threads.

Occasionally someone will discover this, and post about it, as a cool new momentary On feature, they discovered on their twisty.

I just tested an i3e and confirmed it also has the head press for momentary, feature/bug Smile

I usually test my twisties, to learn how far to unscrew them, to avoid the momentary On feature. And I occasionally confirm by pressing on the head, to make sure.

I discovered the feature one day with a nice copper maratac aaa in my pocket.. I guess my pants were a bit tight, cause when I crouched down I saw a flash of light from my pocket…

I then went on to document the feature on a Fenix E01, world famous for “reliability”.. I wont bore you further with a video of an i3e.. trust me..

Twisties have a momentary On, “feature”, that Bugs me. I know how to work around it. All lights have pros and cons.

Some Twisties win at being very small. I like small, and the i3e is my smallest AAA Smile
The Low CRI i3e makes a good spare AAA battery carrier, for my High CRI CuTools…
pic is a link to a bit more spam

Momentary ON, is basically caused by slop in the threads.. check for yourself by removing the O ring on a twisty.. you will discover threads are not a close tolerance fit. The feel of a twisty depends more on the O ring fit than the threads fitment tolerance.

Lightbringer
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Just curious… did everyone’s go out already, or is anyone’s order still “processing”?

I was looking at a Baton, wondering if shipping’s stalled or if things are moving.

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Mark M
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Processing for me.

moderator007
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Mark M wrote:
Processing for me.

Same for me, and I ordered mine 30 minutes after the sale started that night.
eicca
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Did anyone else have issues placing their orders? Mine had some problems on the checkout page. But I got a confirmation email, but it’s been stuck on “processing” and says it’s waiting for payment through PayPal. But I already paid through PayPal and have the receipt and card charge to prove it.

I sent Olight a few messages but haven’t gotten a response.

I was going to order a Warrior X Pro but if their system is glitching I don’t want to get stuck in limbo being charged but not getting a light.

Streamlight ProTac HL - SureFire P2X Fury - Fenix PD35 v2.0 - Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - Fenix PD25 - Sunwayman V11r XML2 6A3 mod - Olight Warrior X Pro

moderator007
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When I ordered the site was running a little slow but everything went through fine, it just took a little while.
At the thanksgiving and christmas sales is when its really bad. Took me several hours to order last year.

phouton
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jon_slider wrote:
Is it a feature or a bug? Smile
depends on point of view

Definitely not a feature IMO! But to each, their own. Smile

I can’t seem to cause that “momentary” with the I3(E/UV) by rolling on a table like in the video with the Fenix E01, which happens easily with the C01S. I really have to press hard radially or axially. It gives me confidence that 1) it won’t turn on accidentally in any use-case I can envision for myself, and 2) it will turn on solidly without flickering when I want to turn it on.

Thanks for the link to your thread on the I3E. The runtime is actually an hour with regulated output?? Impressive. I thought half an hour was the expectation on AAA.

The more I scrutinize the I3 the more I like it. Of course this comes soon after I gave away my I3E. The I3UV is my consolation, and at least I don’t regret the purchase. It’s “interesting” to have a view on otherwise invisible things.

e1000
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I have a few Olights because I like their build and overall exterior design, HOWEVER

- They consistently use awful emitters – typically in the 6500k range and low CRI without any other options
- As I’ve taken a few apart, they are not mod friendly. It’s still possible to do so, but they sure don’t make it easy
- Some people knock them for proprietary batteries, but from an engineering standpoint they do this to make magnetic recharging possible with minimal add to size and bulk of the light
- They like to use TIR optics without a glass lens cover – take that for what it’s worth

Lightbringer wrote:
This’ll be my first Oilight, so I’m not familiar at all with the brand.

With only 4hrs on the ticker, I didn’t want to chance “researching” and having an unexpected glitch run out the clock on me, so I went’n‘ordered just the i3.

Any Oilights of interest I should look into? Notable features (good/bad UIs, nice/hideous tints, solid/flaky, etc.)?

phouton
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^ Good summary of Olight which corresponds with my limited experience.

I really like the build quality, and it’s a factor that is quite meaningful to me. The “feel” is hard to describe but it seems to be the result of a well-refined product, which is difficult to reveal in a product description.

The low CRI is maybe the biggest disappointment with the I3E, but I find it’s not critical for its typical use-case. Oh, and the CRI of the I3UV is abysmal. Big Smile

The color temperature is cool, but not too cold so I’m ok with that, although the I1R 2 is cooler than I’d like.

Proprietary or non-user-replaceable batteries… that really annoys me. Luckily the I3(E/UV) is amazingly small without compromising on this point. It is perhaps reaching the limit of how small a AAA light can be, and I really enjoy this aspect.

eicca
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I still haven’t heard back from customer service and their phone and live chat are both out of commission…

Streamlight ProTac HL - SureFire P2X Fury - Fenix PD35 v2.0 - Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - Fenix PD25 - Sunwayman V11r XML2 6A3 mod - Olight Warrior X Pro

Lightbringer
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Eep! Thank B’harni (pbuh!) for paypal, then.

 

Hmm, seems to be a lot of turn-offs as far as the emitters they use. I’m not terribly interested in modding lights anymore, certainly not crazy-hard ones. With so many out-of-the-box good lights, maybe I’ve gotten jaded.

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Blackbeard
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eicca wrote:
Did anyone else have issues placing their orders? Mine had some problems on the checkout page. But I got a confirmation email, but it’s been stuck on “processing” and says it’s waiting for payment through PayPal. But I already paid through PayPal and have the receipt and card charge to prove it.

I sent Olight a few messages but haven’t gotten a response.

I was going to order a Warrior X Pro but if their system is glitching I don’t want to get stuck in limbo being charged but not getting a light.

I had that issue when I finished the paypal screen, was returned to olight and was unable to hit submit order for about 1/2 hour, but I kept at it and it finally went through, you may be able to see that button on your order page…Seems that every time they have these freebie giveaways their site gets slammed and it’s difficult to get order in, black friday was bad 2 years in a row, you would think they would have fixed it by now but they haven’t.

e1000
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Lightbringer wrote:
Hmm, seems to be a lot of turn-offs as far as the emitters they use. I’m not terribly interested in modding lights anymore, certainly not crazy-hard ones. With so many out-of-the-box good lights, maybe I’ve gotten jaded.

Agree there are a lot of other options out there. The brand in general will make you even more jaded! For example, I think their tiny S1R Baton line are fantastic little 16340 based lights. Magnetically rechargeable, beautifully machined. Somewhat non-normal UI but let’s look past that for a moment.

To mod it, you need to figure out how to remove the press-fit front bezel. Not only is the bezel metal and press fit, it holds back a plastic TIR. It’s nearly impossible to get the damn bezel off without damaging something in the process.

Let’s say you’re stubborn enough to risk damaging the light and get past that. You open it up to find a XM-L2 on an aluminum MCPCB, not great, but it is what it is. You replace that – boom, you then find that TIR you tried so hard not to damage looks terrible with a lot of 3535 footprint LED’s.

It feels like they make it purposefully difficult to mod these. I’d buy a few more of them if they were even slightly more mod friendly and they would take to a 219C or LH351D better.

Lightbringer
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And that’s just it. I’m generally not okay with modding a light if there’s a good chance I’d ruin it.

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Unheard
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I was probably lucky with my S1R then. Yes, opening causes some little marks around the bezel if you’re not experienced (like me), but they are minor and hard to see. Years ago I ordered a couple of NW XM-L2 LEDs and they look fantastic in the S1R.

Anyone knows how to replace the i3E emitter? The desert edition has a nice tint (or mine has), but my early i3E don’t. It’s a shabby light by now as it was on the key ring, so I will risk opening it. If I only knew how.

Lightbringer
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Just got mine today… nice!

Compact (twisty, so no bulky switch), feels solid, decent amount of UV, readily picks up leftover cat-boogers that scrubbing missed. Really digging the “army green” color, too.

I’d get one in NW/WW if one came with a decent emitter. Will have to poke around and see what they got.

 

Oh yeah, what’s quite scary is seeing what’s sticking to my fleece jammie-bottoms or lounge-pants or whatever they’re called. I feel like a human Swiffer™.

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peabody
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Got mine today. Free battery is always a plus. Great quality light with plenty of grease on the threads.
I can’t find what LED this is and how many lumens. Probably a Phillips of some sort putting out 10-25 lm. Anyone know for sure?

Boaz
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Finally got mine and have to say I really like the color of the light . Sad that they are so hard to mod and that olight is known for using such poor tints .very 4/7's green of them . happy to see Sofirn doing both a nice green and sand . I hope they enjoy spending all that extra money others are leaving on the table .

 

Played with the UV for about 7 minutes and got bored 

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jon_slider
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peabody wrote:
how many lumens.
my test of an AA UV shows 0.4 lumens of visible light spectrum
(same voltage as the Olight incoming)

UV does not register in lumens, its counted in watts.. I think

-

Boaz wrote:
olight is known for using such poor tints .very 4/7’s green of them

olight sells lumens, not CRI, which is why I no longer have any of my S Mini and S1 Minis

irc, 4/7s were also made by Olight.. still are..

——
received Olight 395 UV
it measures 2.2 lumens of visible light

my AA 365 UV from mixglo measures 0.4 lumens

For taking photos of trits with an AAA UV, or for revealing red UV marks on USA $100,
I would suggest the 365nm UV from Jetbeam

instead of this very purple 395nm from Olight, which does not work on the USA $100 at all, and makes photos look extra purple.

—-
public service announcement
do not give UV lights to children
wear glasses to protect your eyes from UV
UV is not a Toy for big kids either

peabody
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The 365 is much better for trits.
You are right about the Olight measuring in watts. 350 +/- 50mW
I still would like to know what led they are using in this 395nm.

jon_slider
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Unheard wrote:
Anyone knows how to replace the i3E emitter?

no

I looked inside… the UV version I just received

the plastic pill unscrews easily with tweezers

but the driver is attached with a melted plastic post (tweezer tip points to it)

so I stopped there

let me know if you go farther, successfully

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