Defective rechargeable floodlight

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RD
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The second ones look good. They also have a screw, that can fast connect the wire without soldering. You can try using thick wires with a length of about 300mm. In any case, it will be better than the factory probes.
But if the covers are metal, you should be careful with high voltage measurements.

Sorry for my bad English.

johnnydoe
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Alright, this is my new test equipment. Will need to redo it. The alligator clamps lost their clamping power. Probably have overheated it. Also replaced battery in multimeter.
20200525-173436
Also replaced the wires going to the LED with this thick wire. Might try to rewire the battery pack but don’t know if I’m confident enough to do that.

With this new short leads, the light works! Can amp it up a lot more. Way brighter. Only thing I still noticed is the output seems to hang at 28V, might be my multimeters? But tried both.
With the 12V 6A power supply the light has an awful amount of flickering. Almost nauseating. This does not happen with the battery pack attached.
Also tried the old driver. It works………Draws 0.68A, output of 28.8V, nothing to adjust here. Didn’t replace any more wires here so still the very flimsy thin wires on the output.
So…. Don’t know what to think of it now. Battery pack is the culprit? And with the newer thicker wires it is able to draw more and keep up?

RD
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Good. It looks like the Alligators are a bit overheated.
Voltage 32V-36V for COB LED is for reference only. It does not matter what voltage you get on the LED, it matters what current you give to the LED. It’s hard to explain. You can see the electrical characteristics of the CREE XML2 LED, other LEDs behave in a similar way.

What current did you install on the driver output, and to which battery did you connect the driver?

Sorry for my bad English.

Yokiamy
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Johndoe

What power supply are you using? is it AC or DC? Ac will result in a flicker of 25 Hz of course

johnnydoe
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It’s an AC/DC adapter.
20200524-222536

I stopped at 1A because I did not know if I could trust the voltage output and didn’t want to break anything.
I connected it to it’s original battery pack. So in this result with the old driver everything essentially is connected as it was in the first place, but with some better cables and without switch and charge port.

Next step is to hook it up to its original connectors again, with the added better wiring as far as possible. Maybe my out of the device testing with the bad long wires has thrown all issues to another point and the switch is defective in the original issue.

RD
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You have done a lot of work with this light.
The old driver gives out only 20W of power. Original wires may be enough, but if you want you can change.
If the old driver will work and only the switch is faulty, you have a few steps left.
- Fully charge the battery, and check the runtime.
- Compare this light with others that your friend has.

But we learned that this light was sold as 100W, it looks like 50W, and works on 20W. Marketing.

Sorry for my bad English.

johnnydoe
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For now it looks like the switch is the culprit.
Wired everything in as it was supposed to be, nothing. Measured output of the battery with the switch on, no driver, 1.3V.
Replaced the switch with an old inline light switch. Working. So the switch is having a lot of resistance I suppose?
What could be the issue? Water? Light should have an IP65 rating, switch had a rubber cover and couldn’t see waterstains inside that, but it get’s wet all the time.
Tried to resolder the wires on the switch to see if that would work, but probably went too hot. Prongs got too hot, melted the plastic and shifted out of place, doesn’t work at all anymore Facepalm You see why I’m reluctant at messing with the batteries Big Smile

But it doesn’t match my first results, getting 12.1V output with the switch on.
I guess the old driver was able to step the voltage up to 12V with the little bit of power it got?

Right now I’m running it, put it at 1.1A, will see how long it will run, how hot everything gets, if the Amps stay within range.
If I’m satisfied will have to order a new switch, and will have too see if I can waterproof it again.

So, if the switch is the culprit, my stupidity of not understanding the outcome of the values, and using wrong test equipment made everything a lot worse. OOPS.
At least I’ve learned a lot from this thanks to everyone.

EDIT:
Hmm, half an hour in and the light start’s to flicker more and more and the amps are ramping up, dialing it back lowers it again but the flickering stays. You can hear the driver buzz. The indicator light on the driver has some red coming through and if I pick up the driver and twist it a bit the indicator light goes to full red and the flicker stops.
Voltage from the batteries coming in was 10.5V, output voltage 30.1V.

I stopped the test, it was going to 1.4A pretty fast. Right now I’m running it from its original driver, see what that does. Right now the same 0.68A as before.

RD
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You need to solder the switch quickly, otherwise the plastic will melt quickly.
In the first results, you got 12V at the switch output, but it looks like the contact had a high resistance and the driver could not start.
Unstable operation of the driver can be slightly reduced by tuning it as I said in post # 20.
It seems that the battery is not in good shape.
I recommend using the old driver. This will give you less power (20 watts), longer runtime, more stable operation at low voltage, and it will possibly drain the battery completely, which will increase the runtime even further.

Sorry for my bad English.

johnnydoe
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I have order a new switch.
Locally I can find them only for high prices (mostly due to 4-7€ shipping costs) or not the correct measurements.
From china they are cheap but don’t know when they will arrive so found a seller in france that sold them with shipping for an acceptable price.

Will update this thread again when everything is back in place.

snakebite
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btw those clip leads are usually garbage.
wire too thin and it is simply folded back and crimped to the clip.
they are often bad right out of the package.
as you found out unreliable tools=wild goose chase.
as for the original driver unless it is blown up the only thing i see fail are the input and output caps.
seen plenty of those cheap switches go bad.
they dont stand up to inrush current.
the input cap gives plenty of that if it is good.

johnnydoe
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A little late but here’s the update.
Despite ordering from within europe it took a while for the new switch to be delivered.
And when I got it I didn’t find the time to work on it again.

But I have installed the new switch and did 2 rundowns and everything looks to work as it should!

I’m going to deliver the light on monday and see what my friend thinks of it.
If he thinks it works and is as bright as always, now we know they mislead him.

In the end a lot of work for what looks like a defective switch, but at least I’ve learned a lot!

Thanks to everybody that contributed to help! Very much appreciated!

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