Would you purchase a 14500 version FW1A "mini" if it existed?

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Scallywag
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jon_slider wrote:
My wishlist

tailswitch
screw on or fully captive ring clip
AA compatible
Single High CRI LED
capable of Firefly 0.01 lumens

Not sure we need a new light, maybe just a new driver to fit existing AA lights..

imagine the number of AA Tools out there, that could be enhanced with an AA capable Anduril driver..
DreamTime.. LOL


Even Tools don’t have a good enough clip.
My DQG Slim AA clip is pretty good, but it has still been ripped off a couple times. Of course, a clip can be screw-on but get all sorts of bent out of shape… I’ve several times had to take the tail cap off my D25C Ti to bend the clip back, knowing each time it’s weaker than before.

Personally, I’d love the AA compatible, but am willing to lose it for the sake of LVP with Li-Ion, if it really proves that hard to do multi-chemistry LVP.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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I would buy a couple but only if relatively slim and supports NiMH (I don’t care for Li-ion in lights this small). Doesn’t have to have Anduril either, ramping would be nice but shortcuts to moon and turbo are essential IMO.

Basically I want an updated Nitecore PD light Blushing

Unheard
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Can’t talk myself into buying any FWxy light. I’d try to collect them-not good with so many variations. But I’m curious how it would look like, so my best wishes for this project.

mr_magoo
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I like AA lights, if only to keep around for emergency use in case I’m out and about and dont have a way to charge my 18650 lights. I can always buy a cell at the store if necessary. I rarely actually use AA lights anymore, since getting my lumintop hl3a. When I’m out on the town or for other occasions when I want to have my light be as small as possible and not noticeable, I go for an Aaa light.

It all comes down to size to ability ratio, and what I’m using it for. The HL3A hits all the right spots for me since it’s so small, thin, and uses 18650 cells. The form factor, even though I wasn’t too sure about it before buying, has proven to be perfect. Putting the LEDs on the side of the battery tube and the switch and driver on that same end was IMO the perfect solution to the tube-in-a-tube switch contact and girth problem. The HL3A is much smaller in diameter than the FW3A, with the very tip of head being the only thing that is as large in diameter. It tapers down from that point to .875”. The thing really does disappear in a pocket.

The fact that it is still an ‘end switch’ design makes it easy to find the switch. The magnet makes it super useful as a work light, more useful than a traditional cylindrical flashlight because you can aim it 360° while stuck to something magnetic.

Now, if they designed a light like the HL3A but scaled down to take AA/ 14500 and running a simple ramping U/I like a stripped down anduril with double click to turn on (one click does nothing) and a small (no bigger than 19mm) head using only 2 LEDs instead of 3, then I would probably buy that. It could be TINY if built that way.

The advent of super minimalist LI-ION chargers with flexible leads and magnets makes it easy to take a charger with you. I would rather have that than a built in charger that adds to the size of the light.

And sometimes when carrying aa or aaa lights I just throw an extra battery in the other pocket for peace of mind.

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patmurris wrote:
….. and do we really need ramping on a AA light?

YES.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

raccoon city
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Ramping is awesome...

I don't spend much on AA flashlights, but if I did, I would probably get a FW1A "mini".

I'm just willing to spend a lot more on nice 18650 or 21700 lights.

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JaredM wrote:
treellama wrote:
JaredM wrote:
As much as Lumintop is squeezing all they can out of these BLF designs, it seems they missed an obvious opportunity.
Maybe they’re waiting for BLF to design a 15 mm Anduril boost driver for them Smile

Sounds about right.. Facepalm

Yes, actually. Neal sent me a CAD file of a blank PCB and wanted to know if I could make firmware for it. But, um, a blank PCB can’t run code… and even just from the PCB I could tell the light would be too big to be worth making. I tried to explain the issues, but nothing ever happened. Perhaps that was just the usual lost-in-translation thing, but as far as I could tell, Lumintop wanted someone to send them complete schematics for the entire light… and may not have been aware that everyone involved had been gone for a long time.

Unheard
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Can’t some components go to the MCPCB?

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gchart wrote:
I guess that’s the question… are we after the styling? Or is it more about having a nice, compact 14500/AA running Anduril?

I’m assuming it would have to be a completely new design in order to be coherent at a smaller size.

If anyone is interested in actually making it happen, I’d suggest putting together a 3D model for the host, and talking privately with Hank of Intl-Outdoor to work out details.

For a 14500 light (especially if it needs to work with AA too), the ideal designs tend to be long and thin… close to the shape of a tube light, but perhaps with a slightly flared head and tail. The tail switch signal could be transferred with a ribbon instead of an entire inner tube, to reduce diameter. A single LED in a reflector can easily be throwy enough without making the head wide. And the clip, of course, should ideally be a unidirectional deep carry type which runs parallel to the tube, similar to an Olight S2 (but perhaps captive instead of clip-on).

With a narrow diameter, it might be necessary to have a tall or stacked driver… especially if it needs AA support. That’s usually fine though. It worked nicely in the L3 L10, and in the EagleTac D25A.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
It worked nicely in the L3 L10, and in the EagleTac D25A.

great ideas
and if the new AA Anduril driver can be put into a D25a Ti host that would be awesome too
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Only if it works with AA.
I would use it with Eneloop AA.

If it doesn’t work with Eneloop AA… I would not buy it.

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The D25A has a reverse clicky, no?

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jon_slider wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
It worked nicely in the L3 L10, and in the EagleTac D25A.

great ideas
and if the new AA Anduril driver can be put into a D25a Ti host that would be awesome too

I guess it would need more than the driver, it would need a bigger mod to make it work, to make the connection between the tailswitch (that would need a change) and the driver!
But it would be a nice form factor flashlight!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3/ 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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ToyKeeper wrote:
gchart wrote:
(REDACTED) I guess that’s the question… are we after the styling? Or is it more about having a nice, compact 14500/AA running Anduril?

(REDACTED)
I’m assuming it would have to be a completely new design in order to be coherent at a smaller size.

. . . talking privately with Hank of Intl-Outdoor to work out details.

I don’t have anything in the works and have concluded that Neil is, at least sometimes, overwhelmed. I agree, Hank may be a better resource.

Could you just imagine a “baby” KR4 powered by one 14500? I picture a reflector design with a single white primary emitter LED and three RGB secondary LEDs; running Andúril – of course.

If that little fantasy light were to actually become a reality, I might have the perfect replacement for my beloved NC D11.2s with trit pistons.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

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If it’s AA compatible with an LH351D.

Scallywag
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I wouldn’t mind a KR4 mini… KR1 mini?

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
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Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

DHart
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I agree with this. Too many 14500 lights are nearly as large as 18650 lights. What’s with that? If a 14500 light is approaching the size of a compact 18650 light, forget it – I will just buy a small 18650 light – or another D25A.

I’ve been completely spoiled by EagleTac’s D25A lights. They have been my EDC pocket lights for years!

The D25A is incredibly small and light (aluminum version), compared to so many other 14500 lights out there. My only quibble with them may be that I might prefer a warmer, or more floody, or higher-CRI emitter. The D25A is a landmark EDC light, in my view. Has been for a long time. For EDC in the pocket, price point, quality… it has been THE one to beat for quite some time now.

SO PLEASE, producers, trim down your 14500 lights to a respectably small format – it obviously can be done by EagleTac. These make for remarkably comfortable EDC lights and with 14500 power, can be very potent in both output and runtime.

EagleTac has been doing it, FOR YEARS… so can YOU!

Lastly… I would so readily part with money for a D25A size light, with Anduril software, 14500 capable, Nichia 219C 3000k emitter, and perhaps an optic for a soft, floody beam! To me, that would be an IDEAL light for around the house and semi-close range utility use.

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Unloco wrote:
Only if it works with AA.
I would use it with Eneloop AA.

If it doesn’t work with Eneloop AA… I would not buy it.

I agree; running on Eneloops is a nice thing.

BUT: If it doesn’t work with 14500 Li-Ion… I would not buy it. With 14500 you can have awesome potency in output. And with Eneloop you can have excellent utility. Ability to run both (as with EagleTac D25A) is a winning combination!

asdqqq
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Here we go, they should be able to put this right into production Smile
https://imgur.com/Fl4WjJT
-edit
Whoops, messed up my math. Hope they didn’t already start producing this. Here’s a corrected version:
https://imgur.com/w5VgSja

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asdqqq wrote:
Here we go, they should be able to put this right into production Smile https://imgur.com/Fl4WjJT -edit Whoops, messed up my math. Hope they didn’t already start producing this. Here’s a corrected version: https://imgur.com/w5VgSja

Your measurements are pretty similar to the DQG Slim Ti flashlight.
I think that would be a great wishful thinking to make it work, but it wouldn’t work due to the dimmensions.
The DQG is so small because it has the LED on the driver PCB itself, what raises some issues in case we want to build a light like the FWxA.

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3/ 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

asdqqq
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For the length, I just took the length of the FW3A minus the difference in cell size. So they’d just need to replicate the depth of components in the FW3A to achieve that length.

That would mean a 6mm deep TIR optic, any reason that couldn’t happen?

And the driver should be a miniaturized version of the Lume1, where loneoceans managed to fit all of the components on one side of the driver. Using both sides, hopefully that could all fit? Maybe a mm or two needs to be added here?

The battery would of course be an unprotected 14500. Limited battery compatibility hasn’t slowed down sales of the FW series yet, and I doubt it would here either. Frankly, the idea of AA capability, while it would be nice to have in some Andúril light, seems completely inconsistent with the ethos of the FW series.

And is there any reason the switch couldn’t be basically the same as the one on the FW3A?

For the width, I just measured the narrowest part of the FW3A and subtracted the nominal cell size to get the minimum needed for the two tubes and room for the cell to move, then added a mm for threads and stuff. Maybe that needs another mm?

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Please note that my comment above only has per base the structure of the FWxA light and the structure of the DQG slim TI, which is one of te smallest AA lights around with a clicky switch (not e-switch).

asdqqq wrote:
That would mean a 6mm deep TIR optic, any reason that couldn’t happen?

I guess it could fit such TIR or even a small reflector such as the one of the Nitefox ES10K (I’m basing on the lights I have for comparison).

asdqqq wrote:
And the driver should be a miniaturized version of the Lume1, where loneoceans managed to fit all of the components on one side of the driver. Using both sides, hopefully that could all fit? Maybe a mm or two needs to be added here?

Hum, this is the part where I believe some mm more will be needed.
Again, comparing to the DGQ Slim Ti: this light has a driver with the LED incorporated in the upper part. All the components are around it, and I guess that wouldn’t be the best solution for the light we’re aiming here.
So, a more common (and moddable solution) containing driver + shelf (or pill) + MCPCB w/ led, could probably take some more space.
BUT, again I don’t know how this would be feasible with the driver from loneoceans and other designs, so I won’t say much more.

asdqqq wrote:
The battery would of course be an unprotected 14500. Limited battery compatibility hasn’t slowed down sales of the FW series yet, and I doubt it would here either. Frankly, the idea of AA capability, while it would be nice to have in some Andúril light, seems completely inconsistent with the ethos of the FW series.

The smaller 14500 cell I have is a protected and micro-usb rechargeable Lumintop 700mAh, that is “much” smaller than the unprotected Sanyos and Efest I have, so the cells wouldn’t be a problem here Wink
I guess the best 14500 cells (both from Shockli and Vapcell) are bigger than that battery.

asdqqq wrote:
And is there any reason the switch couldn’t be basically the same as the one on the FW3A?

No, I guess not, and here – comparing again the 2 flashlights – some space could be won! The FWxA switch would be less large and slimmer than a clicky switch, so, some optimization would make the tail less tall. Thumbs Up

asdqqq wrote:
For the width, I just measured the narrowest part of the FW3A and subtracted the nominal cell size to get the minimum needed for the two tubes and room for the cell to move, then added a mm for threads and stuff. Maybe that needs another mm?

I guess some mm more would be needed in case an internal tube was used. The DQG is very thing, but it wouldn’t have space inside for another tube, so at least 1-2 mm more would be needed!

I would poiny to a thickness closer to the battery tube of the Lumintop Tool AA (in the knurling part), which would allow some more thickness and space for the inner tube.

Again, my knowledge about the possibilities out there in this is limited, so please look to my considerations as a help to improve your design Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3/ 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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maybe if it was the size of lumintop tool AA
do NOT want 3 or 4 led head, must be as slim as body tube
would want part-floody pattern like fw3a
side switch for more compactness
anduril a must!!

also needs to be under $30 to interest me personally

wle

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I would be interested if they can make the tube small so we can finally make use of those new miracle Vapcell 14500 10A and Shockli 12A cells. The FW3A tube design requiring a sleeve will make the 14500 host fat, which defeats the advantage of using 14500 cells.

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I dont say I wouldnt.

Just because got two nice Vapcells coming for GT Micro so would be pretty nice to get some smallish edc light that uses thoses. My 18650 batteries got enough circulation in lights and powerbank usage, so yep good 14500 light would find good home from here. How much diameter would example 3 X XP-L Hi’s need?

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yes, actually. Neal sent me a CAD file of a blank PCB and wanted to know if I could make firmware for it. But, um, a blank PCB can't run code... and even just from the PCB I could tell the light would be too big to be worth making. I tried to explain the issues, but nothing ever happened. Perhaps that was just the usual lost-in-translation thing, but as far as I could tell, Lumintop wanted someone to send them complete schematics for the entire light... and may not have been aware that everyone involved had been gone for a long time.

Likewise, Neal mentioned interest to build a 14500 flashlight, and said I'd be happy to help design a driver for it.

I suggested using this opportunity to try something different. For example, wouldn't it be nice to use say 3 or 4 E21A LEDs instead? Wouldn't it be nice to have it also run in a boost mode and have a mix of different emitters for a customized colour temperature and tint profile? Still awaiting what they want for their product.. Maybe if enough members express interest, could help Neal / Lumintop in the direction they could go for this flashlight. Smile 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

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If it was slim and small, I’d get a couple. 14500 is okay but I’d much prefer if it could also run AA. Note, the Thrunite T10t v2 shows it can be done. Need a few improvements but the foundation is there.

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There was interest expressed by members for a SP10S with Anduril. But the SP10S is not as slim as other AA lights, and that made it less attractive, since size is the primary reason people would carry it over a 18650 flashlights such as the FW3A. I think a Anduril AA/14500 would be quite cool, and would definitely buy it, but only if it’s less than 19mm in diameter, accept both AA/14500 and priced under $30.

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ToyKeeper wrote:

Yes, actually. Neal sent me a CAD file of a blank PCB and wanted to know if I could make firmware for it. But, um, a blank PCB can’t run code… and even just from the PCB I could tell the light would be too big to be worth making. I tried to explain the issues, but nothing ever happened. Perhaps that was just the usual lost-in-translation thing, but as far as I could tell, Lumintop wanted someone to send them complete schematics for the entire light… and may not have been aware that everyone involved had been gone for a long time.

I could possibly deliver this CAD design by the end of June. Got a lot of things happening though with a new house and work for the next 3-4 weeks. I think a reasonable expectation for this light would be 20mm x 85mm. 14500 saves 15mm, but single optic will add some. A proper deep pocket clip will be a top priority for the design as well.

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Seems like identifying the optic might be a good first step, as it could affect the width and length dimensions. Looks like Ledil has some 16mm by 9-10mm options.
Or could this use the 10mm Carclo optics. Those are only 6mm deep…

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