E-Swith 1S Boost Driver 6v-12v

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Quadrupel
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E-Swith 1S Boost Driver 6v-12v

IMG-20200818-174120

Features:
1S Li-ion battery driver for 6V LED like XHP50.2, XHP70.2, Nichia 144AM or quad of E21A – E17A and so on.
Available size 20, 21, 22mm”
Constant current modes.
Reverse polarity, battery protection and overheating protection.
4 well spaced main modes in loop – LOW (0.24Watt) , MED1 (0.64W) , MED2 (1.4W) , HIGH (3.2W) .
TURBO (10W) and MOONLIGHT (0.08W) separated from 4 main modes loop.
STROBES and BATTERY CHECK.
SOFT LOCKOUT.
INDICATOR LED support. Fixed on PCB and can be connected in button.

From OFF:

1C – ON
2C – TURBO ON/OFF
3C – STROBES. HOLD to change STROBES.
4C – SOFT LOCKOUT ON/OFF.
5C – SOFT LOCKOUT ON WITH RED BEACON (CONFIGURABLE IN SETTINGS). 4C OFF.
HOLDMOONLIGHT.
From HOLD modes starting from the MOONLIGHT, and for the second and subsequent circles only in the 4 main modes. TURBO mode is not involved in loop.
CLICK&HOLDBATTERY CHECK 1-5

From ON:

1C – OFF.
2C – TURBO ON/BACK. NO TURBO FROM MOONLIGHT.
3C – STROBES —-> HOLD to select STROBES.
HOLD – 4 MAIN MODES LOOP.
CLICK&HOLDREVERSE TO LOW MODE.

HOLD SWITCH and CONNECT TAIL CAP. After 1 and few more blinks you are in SETTING MODE:

5C – Temperature control setting. The flashlight flickers few times and switches to TURBO mode. Hold flashlight in hand and feel temperature rising. After reaching a dangerous temperature – CLICK. IND. will blink 1 time and the driver will remember the temperature and will use it in the future as a threshold for triggering step down. If you make 2C (IND 2 flashes), the first level of thermo control and TURBO mode will be disabled. Only moon and 4 main mode will be available!
4C – MOONLIGHT brightness selection. HOLD to select brightness. CLICK – exit to main menu.
3C – Beacon settings. HOLD to select. Fast blinking- OFF , mid – every 4s, slow – 8s. CLICK – exit to main menu.
2C – ON mode mode brightness selection. HOLD to select brightness. CLICK – exit to main menu.
1C – Low Voltage Protection selection . IND. fast blinking – 2.85V cutoff, mid – 2.4V, slowest – 2.1V. CLICK – exit to main menu.
To SAVE SETTINGS and exit SETTING MODECLICK & HOLD. After IND. LED shuts down- settings are saved.

To reduce development costs, limited batch is available for sale. If interested PM . Beer

Edited by: Quadrupel on 10/16/2020 - 16:58
Chatika vas Paus
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More info please.
It’s boost driver for 1 cell and 6V led I guess?
Is it programmable with blf firmware?

bikenber73
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Awesome…..I guess?

Quadrupel
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We shall see.;))

bansuri
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If it’s as fun as the other drivers I got from you then count me in!

raccoon city
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Quadrupel your pleasure

Quadrupel your fun

It's the right one

The Quadrupelmint gum

WTF
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Is that a synchronous boost converter controlled by just an attiny? Pretty slick if you can pull it off. That gives me hope for a high power buck boost driver.

What kind of switching frequency do you expect?

WTF
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Thanks for the schematic. I was wondering what F2 was being used for but still don’t see the need for it.

I believe the original driver switched at 300khz, it would be nice if that could be increased. Maybe replacing F1 with a Schottky diode might be easier than trying to figure out the band gap between F1 and the pfet. The band gap may need to change with load and temperature, and there could be some shoot through if the attiny gets too busy.

The attiny 1626 and 1627 are almost available. 20mhz clock speed and 12 bit adc would be nice for this application.

sidehack
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I was looking at a micro-driven switching controller a couple weeks ago but, with the chips I have available, couldn’t get a sufficiently high switching speed and decent resolution at the same time due to hardware PWM limitations. 6.8uH inductance probably helps with that; I wanted to stay under about 2uH to get high saturation and low DCR in a compact package for a 17mm driver. Slick use of the analog switch as a gate driver too.

Quadrupel
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So, ordered PCB and components. Coils same size 7×6.5mm, 3 values: 5.6, 6.8, 8.2uF and caps 22, 47 and 100uF for experimenting and tuning. Big Smile

Agro
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WTF wrote:
The attiny 1626 and 1627 are almost available. 20mhz clock speed and 12 bit adc would be nice for this application.

How are they better than 1616?
WTF
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The 1616 has a 10 bit adc but it may not matter if you are using an op amp. The little bit I have read about the two series claims very fast adc conversions and a more powerful cpu. Either one would be an improvement on the old 85.

My biggest concern is the attiny could be spending too much time on other tasks and not spending enough time on the boost converter. If this thing works and the switching speeds can be increased it opens the door to higher power versions and maybe buck boost as well.

Agro
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Just took a closer look…I really like it. Smile
I wonder what kind of power can it deliver and at what efficiency.

id30209
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It would be better in 20mm size and 2.5A @12V

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Quadrupel
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I guess efficiency should be about 80-85% and power.. maybe 20W?. Ordered few 20mm too.

Agro
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Quadrupel wrote:
I guess efficiency should be about 80-85% and power.. maybe 20W?. Ordered few 20mm too.

To be honest I find the efficiency underwhelming…what makes it so much less efficient than say GXB172?
sidehack
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50mOhm series resistor and the rectifier drop, to start. Without a synchronous rectifier, conduction losses really pile up.

Nitewalker
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raccoon city wrote:

Quadrupel your pleasure


Quadrupel your fun


It’s the right one


The Quadrupelmint gum

Hahahaha, what was that all about Big Smile

Quadrupel
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Yes, yes the best is synchronous rectification , but Ill be very happy with “only” 85% eficiency Big Smile

raccoon city
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Nitewalker wrote:

Hahahaha, what was that all about Big Smile

It's a (modified) commercial jingle for Wrigley's Doublemint gum.

Quadrupel
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So much nano soldering, tuning and XP Smile .This one is fully stabilized step up 6v 21mm driver for Skillhunt or similar headlamps. Simple the best UI similar to Olight Baton. About 10w on turbo for few minutes before overheating the smallish H03 body.

IMG-20200627-114649

moderator007
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Great job! Looks like getting it down to 17mm is possible.
Awaiting testing data to see how these perform. Very interesting design.

Quadrupel
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Now components is in 18mm circle all in 1 side, so 20mm possible, but 17mm … 1 side … hmmm ;)) Boost driver without big coil wont work ;))

kevinthefro
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Am I the only one who gets the Big Ass Spider reference, or am I just late to the game?

moderator007
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Its impressive that you have got it down to 18mm. Is there a reason you dont want to go double side?
This design could easily fit 17mm if you stuck some of the smaller components on the oppisite side. Just leave the center for positive to solder on a copper stud or small spring.
In time, I think Aundril will be adapted to work with boost. There’s a few members working on it.

Quadrupel
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Which e-switch flashlight using 17mm driver? Another question. Which e-switch drivers diameter most common and popular and desirable?

id30209
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Most desirable are currently for 14500/AA size if you ask me.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Quadrupel
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14500/AA…. Its not a driver size

Tom E
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17 mm is considered the most common, across the board. But I've been seeing 20, 21, 22 mm's pretty often lately. Going smaller, AA size, 15 mm would be the next smaller size, I would consider AA size. But of course there are exceptions to every rule or assumption smile.

moderator007
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17mm is probably the most common as Tom E said. The easiet way is to make it as small as you feel comfortable working with then just change the pcb size to accomodate different size lights. That way the driver can fit many lights just by changing the pcb size in the design without having to go thru the process of designing a new layout.

Quadrupel
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I do not know any popular light with e-switch and 17mm driver. Why go small? Better change host with more space ;)). Tomorrow last hope. I will get FET with same specs only more powerful as is in original Tamagoshi schematics.

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