Which one would you choose?

Hello everyone. Been lurking here for a minute. Decided to make an account so I could ask the community here which light you would choose. Maxtoch archer m1, klarus xt12gt, Astrolux c8, Armytek predator pro v3 or GT mini. My main concern is durability and throw.

Astrolux c8 cause I’m tight. But GT mini is probably the best choice and would ship quicker if you can source localy.

If its just of the lights listed cant go wrong with the good old c8 and the GT mini both fantastic lights. Personally I’ve never been a fan of klarus.

Forgot the Nitecore P30… :laughing:

And Sofirn C8A (more lemons) and C8T (more throw).

I got all 3 above and the ’mini, and they’re all good lights. Differences are in the UI and switches.

Predator pro. I like their lights alot, and the UI is great for a thrower.

Depends on what you are using it for. Maxtoch says 1800 meters. Next longest is GT Mini at 750 meters.
Armytech claims most lumens.
Price from high to low would be Astrolux down to GT Mini.
Looking at your list the GT mini seems to be the best value and it is a good performer.
Other than the FT03 sst40, which throws more/has more lumens/ can be had at least 5 bucks cheaper/ but is still not proven to be dependable, I would just get the Mini for the money.

I would say predator pro but the gt mini is good too so both

C8 is a good light. Modable and easy to fix if it ever does break and parts are everywhere. C8 pattern lights are like the Volkswagen Beetle of the flashlight world. Sofirn C8G with the XHP35 HI is a good light also. Of your choices C8 or the Lumintop.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

You raise a good point about the parts availability. Since this is going to be a shtf light, I am leaning towards the astrolux.

Noctigon KR1

Thanks for the kr1 suggestion. I didn’t know of this. I have a d4v2 already. If this meets my parameters, it would be a nice complement. I don’t have any experience with the above models/brands I asked about. Would you all say that this kr1 would be as durable as the models I inquired about?

I had tunnel vision for an 18650 thrower, because my other lights are all 18650s. I wanted to only invest in one battery type. I started to entertain the idea of using an adapter for a 21700 light. Would it make sense to put an 18650 in say, a k1. Or would a high performance 18650 dedicated light like the kr1 out perform that setup?

A 21700 cell can deliver higher current and more capacity compared to an 18650. A high capacity 21700 will usually outperform a comparable 18650. There are no 15A CDR 4000 mah 18650’s, but a 21700 can do that easily. That5the advantage 9f having a light that takes that size cell.

I realize the realities of the 18650 limitations in capacity. I was thinking a variety of factors played into the performance of any particular light regardless of the higher current. So basically, the KR1 would out perform an sbt90/w1/w2 K1 with an 18650 in it?

I ended up choosing Neal’s C8+ Osram W2. I should have it in a few days.

I am looking to buy a flashlight for a muggle. I want something that has a simple UI, floody, magnetic or usb charging, preferably 18650, and high cri. Pretty much something like a simpler user interface d4v2 with integrated charging. Any thoughts?

FC11.

Thanks for the reply lighbringer. I may just end up waiting for toykeeper to develop the new firmware that has muggle mode as default. Then get a mule d4v2. Since the main use for the light would be within 5 feet.

FC11, slap on some diffusion-film, and it’ll be a killer indoor light.

Doubt it’s available anymore, but the built-like-a-tank Tacklife 26650 light that made the rounds was incredibly throwy, but after slapping on some nice diffusey diffusion-film, it’s a killer indoor light as well. Almost like a mule, but a subtle brighter spot in the middle that smooooooothly fades in brightness as you go off-center. Always goes H/M/L, so when hitting a dark cellar, instant nice bright wall of light.

My Xeno E03, warm-white, same dealy. Goes M/L/H (yecch), but M is still decently bright, and with diffusion-film, same dealy, killer inside light.

Mules waste too much light spreading it around way too thinly. Just scrunching it into a smaller cone that’s still plenty wide almost doubles the intensity (and usefulness).

Don’t get me wrong, I have a few mules, but rarely use ’em for just that reason. To get any decent intensity, you gotta turn ’em on almost full-tilt. Might as well just shine the light upward for ceiling-bounce…

I am ignorant in diffusion films. I assume d-c-fix would fit the bill?