-Warm tint (it’s going to be used around-the-house, and close-quarters; warm tint is the most pleasing and natural looking to me)
-High CRI (well, of course… why wouldn’t you want high CRI?)
-Floody (I’m not expecting to use the light to light-up distant objects; it will be used at close-range distances, not a thrower by any means)
–10440 (because you get a lot more bang-for-the-buck from a 3.7+v 10440 Li-Ion than you do from a 1.4v Eneloop)
As for UI, I love Anduril, but would settle for L-M-H-T; soft clicks tail switch. Twisty UI as a second choice.
The UI is less important to me than the tint, CRI, and beam shape are.
And… your favorite AAA-sized light is what? And, why?
I haven’t acquired a favorite that meets my desires, just yet, but the Folomov EDC C1 sure checks all of my boxes! And it isn’t stupid expensive, either.
At some point, you’ll likely have many AAA lights, among them those with normal CRI, a well defined spot, and eneloop compatibility. I have a row of them populating a board. Could take any of them and it will do the job.
Most often used indoor is a C01 with warm Yuji 5mm LED and eneloop battery. On my keyring there was an Olight i3e until I destroyed it . It needs to be replaced soon. Hope Olight will have another round of free i3e in the near future. I have only the limited edition desert tan version left and hestitate to put it on the key ring. But maybe I should. Should I?
I carry an AAA because it’s small. But it is small enough to go with heavier materials, that also give a better hand-feel and look good when used.
For the UI I like the m-l-h setup as I don’t use the lights at night. I have other lights for around the house at night with moonlight modes.
HCRI (warm) is a must.
So is nihm support. I like lion but 10440 last just to short.
Due to the low lumens on nihm I need a bit of throw in these lights. In my other lights I like floody beams.
Ha, you just have to write about a problem to solve it. Took the pill out of the desert tan i3e and implanted it to my worn black i3e body. Nice DT body preserved and waiting for a new pill.
BTT: Sometimes normal CRI is just better. You rarely (and maybe never) need to perfectly discriminate colors, but often need brightness and runtime. That’s where the Olight comes in. In years I have not even missed a second mode. If needed, one twist is enough to have the light I need. If it’s too bright, I cover the light with thumb and pointer a bit.
I want several low levels, like say .5, 1, 2, 4, 8 lumens
I would only use it at night in the house.
No memory, start on .5, very fast to change levels, no strobes.
And I would want a side switch to make it super small.
I desire 5.000 lumen constant output with 5 hours of battery life :D. It will happen i’m sure but, i hope i can see…We need an Elon Musk to faster process in torch market
A bit of everything, which is why i have far more than i can actually use.
Ideal (in a current technology way) would be a small Ti twisty for silent operation, with a moonlight mode, a walking mode, and a bright mode when on NiMH, always starting on moonlight. I use torches far more frequently in pitch black conditions than either partially or fully lit.
Edit: - Oh, and a neutral to cool white high CRI tint a bit on the green side.
I’m also on board with “warm”, “pretty tint”, and “high CRI”. I like at least one of the modes to have usable light for very long battery life. Noticeable PWM is a deal-breaker.
The Sofirn C01 is my favorite AAA flashlight. It hits all of those. It only has the one mode but it’s just about perfect for what it is. It lasts a ridiculously long time. Based on some sage wisdom here, it’s a vampire and will drain down to zero so I keep mine loaded with a plain white Eneloop instead of my usual Eneloop Pro. I suppose it would be nice to also have a high mode on tap. I have the C01S and while good, it doesn’t have the same “wow” factor and I rarely use it.
As far as modes go, simple is better for me. Starting low is best. I definitely don’t want strobes, blinking, etc. on the normal rotation. Did I mention that noticeable PWM is a deal-breaker?
i like my olight i3ts most, its because its bright for an aaa light on highest (they claim 180lumen), in the copper version i use the 10440 battery for over 300 lumens hhaa, downside is ugly coolwhite but for neutral cri i have lumintop tool and reylight with nichia emitter but less brightness…
ui i dont care so much, low medium and high is enough… no strobe ugh….
. It needs to be replaced soon. Hope Olight will have another round of free i3e in the near future. I have only the limited edition desert tan version left and hestitate to put it on the key ring. But maybe I should. Should I?
