Hello I was looking for more ideas or information about these LED Headlights Amazon Link
They claim to be best for night vision, but I’d much prefer a warmer tint and would love to swap in 3000k 80+ CRI Xhp50.2.
I don’t have any experience reflowing led’s and I also imagine the design of this heatsink will make it very challenging.
Any thoughts, concerns, or ideas? Thanks!
These lamps arent a good choice for headlights. In a halogen light bulb (H4) you have a small piece of wire, which glows.this has mich leas surface area than the xhp 50.2. The optics of the headlight are build to the H4 norm, so you would blind other drivers with These bulbs or have at least an uneven beampattern
I purchased some LED replacement headlights that were designed to replace the OEM bulb. That way they have the same beam pattern and proper angle also so they don’t blind oncoming drivers.
I think these are them.
They might make some in a warmer white if that is what you prefer.
Could you provide a link showing these being compliant with the FMVSS 108? Otherwise,these are a no go just like the first lights posted.
Also, I can see a lot of light pooling, foreground light, in the first product. That has zero to negative effects on safety.
I replaced my 9007 headlights with xhp50 leds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J4SF4CV/
I didn’t like the tint either so I ordered 8 5000k 80cri xhp50.2’s and reflowed the leds myself.
You have to disassemble the bulb to get at the mcpcb for reflow. Mine was like a 1/4” x 1 1/2” aluminum plate mcpcb.
They apperantly used lead free or high temp solder because it took quite a bit of heat to get the solder to flow.
Once I got the xhp50’s off, I cleaned up all the solder and reflowed the xhp50.2’s with chipquik solder paste and it went very smooth from that point.
I can see the road way better and colors are more vibrant now. It was risky work but worth the effort to me.
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I did some lumen testing in my light tube before and after. I got about 200 more lumens per a bulb by changing to higher bin better tint xhp50.2’s.
I tried changing the sense resistor to gain more current to the leds and that worked but the driver evidently has some kind of thermal sensor. I got more current and lumens at first start but as the bulb becomes hot it throttles back current to reduce the heat. Once it settles the current and lumens was lower than the original sense resistor.
I put the original sense resistor back on and called it good. If they would use a copper mcpcb and xhp50.2 leds they could get way more out of their bulbs.
I had emailed the company asking if they would give me a discount I could give them some pointers on how to improve their design, they run sales on these all the time on amazon but they were not on sale at the time. They never responded, so I waited until they had a 30% off sale and bought them and changed the leds out.
I noticed about a month later that some of their competitors had done their research, they were using copper mcpcb’s and xhp50.2 leds with a higher price tag of coarse.
All and all changing to the xhp50.2’s was worth it to me, because i got to choose exactly what I wanted even though it was challenging.
My advice would be to pay more for the bulbs, tint and design you want and not have to change anything. Just install them the way they are. You will spend about the same amount or more swapping leds than if you had just bought the bulbs you wanted.
I spent more on the 8 xhp50.2’s than I did the entire bulb not to mention the time involed and the risk of destroyng them.
I couldn’t find what you were looking for.
Here is and incandescent bulb on amazon and I cant find the federal compliance certification you were referring to there as well.
Do you have an example of what I am looking for? A sticker or something?
Thanks
Thanks for the insight! Sounds like a good bit of work.
I would love to spend more and get what I want, but it doesn’t exist! hence why I am here. It’s mostly for color temperature and CRI, as the ones i’m looking at do already have xhp50.2’s (maybe I’ll be satisfied with the tint anyways)
Did you use a soldering iron to reflow?
I’m still pretty skeptical on these since like others here mentioned, the filament vs. light emitting surface of the led’s is quite different, and I do not want to be another hazard on the road.
This is likely what I’ll end up trying out, I have found warmer ones, but would really love to get higher CRI.
It does look to me as the light emitting surface is close enough to halogen that they shouldn’t be an issue (Though I’m certain they are not certified in anyway).
Nope, hot air station held under the mcpcb at about 1” until flowing then back off about a 1/2” to maintain temp until reflowed and leds aligned.
Mine pointed at my garage door at night look almost identical to the incandescent except brighter and white. The key is in turning the bulb in the reflector. Most I have seen have a adjustment screw to turn the bulb a few degrees to adjust.
The best I could find were 5K, and no mention of CRI. VLed’s Micro Extreme, using Seoul chips.