Replaced optics in SP40 - mistakes were made

The beam from the SP40 was too throwy for my taste so I ordered some 17mm 45 degree TIR optics from AliExpress to replace the reflector. It does kind of fit but the process didn’t really go smoothly for me.

First issue was that the bezel was extremely tight (but not glued, surprisingly). I scratched up the light pretty badly trying to get it off with snap ring pliers. Eventually I heated the head up with a 1875W hair dryer, and the bezel eventually slowly moved.

Second issue was that the TIR optic I ordered was 9.7mm high, while the factory reflector was 7.9mm by gchart’s review. I had to file it down quite significantly to get it to fit. The SP40 has a centering ring around its XPL-HD emitter which adds a mm or so, so initially I tried to use the TIR with the centering ring removed. However, this led to a very bad dark spot in the center of the hotspot. The TIR I ordered was meant for XML2 type LEDs, so I’m not sure if that had anything to do with it. I found it was better when the TIR was higher, so I filed it down a bit further to get it to fit with the centering ring under it. However, I think the recess for the LED was no longer deep enough after all this filing, and it was pressing on the emitter dome. When I removed the TIR the dome came clean off with it:

It’s pretty impressive how cleanly it came off, honestly. I guess my SP40 has an XPL-HI now.

Afterwards the dark spot was a lot better. This is the beam after installing a TIR lens. In the third image that’s an SC31B 4000K on the left. It’s noticeably colder, I think Sofirn sent me a 3000K instead of the 4000K I ordered for the headlamp. Overall, I’m satisfied with the beam after the mod. It’s now more usable at close range.

Just for fun, I put the factory reflector back in temporarily to see what effect the dedome had. The headlamp is quite throwy like this, almost as much as my SC31B. Maybe this would be attractive to some but it was the exact opposite of what I wanted.

With the TIR installed, the bezel still isn’t quite flush with the body, and the glass lens presses on the top of the TIR. I can’t remove the glass because the bezel is 20mm while the TIR is 17mm, so it doesn’t hold the TIR in place. I feel that I’ve somewhat compromised the waterproofing of the light with this mod. I’d need to file more to get the bezel flush, but I think if I file down the bottom of the TIR any more the dark spot will return. Maybe I could file the top down, but I don’t know if I could do it without messing up the beam. This is my first time doing something like this, so if there’s anything you think I could have done differently please let me know.

Nice. Even with the dedome, it doesn’t look like the tint is any greener than before.

Changing the reflector rarely goes smoothly because, as you found, in a light like this the reflector heights have to be very close for everything to fit right. You pretty much got it to fit though, so nice job. Another thing you could try is to use DC fix diffusing film and keep the stock reflector. You just put the film on the glass lens. See here.

Also regarding the tint of the LED, when you dedome the color temperature gets warmer so that probably explains how warm it is.

The LED was like that before the dedome too. Maybe it wasn’t quite as warm but it still looked like 3000K instead of 4000K. The pictures do exaggerate the tint slightly, I set white balance to either 5000K or 4000K.

I found a picture from before:

I D C Fixed mine. I don’t know if a TIR is much different when it is all said and done.

I’m not sure it would be a good idea to DC-Fix mine at this stage. Due to the missing dome won’t it still be very throwy with DC-Fix applied?

I don’t think it would be throwy. I have a dedomed SP 33 V2 with dc fix and it is not throwy. Easy enough to try. I have even added it to a C8 and it is not throwy. I am not a hot spot fan.

Unfortunately dedoming the LED by accident did just the opposite of what you were trying to accomplish. But stuff happens when modding flashlights. Applying DC-Fix will make the beam more floody. Another option, since you still need to use the lens, would be to sand down the inside of the lens with sandpaper to make it frosted. That would also help to diffuse the beam.

The bezel was never perfectly flush with the body on my SP40 and when I added diffusion film the gap may have gotten ever so slightly larger. I tightened the bezel as much as I dared without going too hard and risking fracturing the lens.

Btw, I found it relatively easy to remove the bezel using a rubber band. See my post here for details: DC-Fix Diffusion Film Sale - #362 by phouton