KR1 won't turn on.

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Frostcream
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KR1 won't turn on.

EDIT – My KR1 is perfect. The Orbtronic 18350 works fine. Tip? Don’t use the lanyard ring with the 18350 tube.

—I just got a KR1. Beautiful, feels great, but it won’t turn on.

It just flashes rapidly if you hold the power button, brighter and brighter, then shuts off.

A single press results in one tiny, dim flash.

Positive toward head, negative toward tail, fully charged known-good Orbtronic 18350 in 18350 tube.

What am I missing here?

Edited by: Frostcream on 07/05/2020 - 23:19
Hank Wang
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Orbtronic 18350 is protected battery?
It’s simply too long for KR1, the tailcap does not make fully contact with the tube.
Please use unprotected battery, and make sure the tailcap is fully/tightly screwed in.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Frostcream
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I will check, I thought I made sure to order unprotected.

The power button pushes easily, is there an easy first “click” then a harder second click?

I’m afraid to damage the light so I haven’t pushed real hard.

Hank Wang
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If it’s unprotected, then please make sure the tailcap is scewed in tightly until it can not move more, please don’t worry, it will not be damaged.

This is actually a FAQ, “The light only blinks when I hold the button, is it boken?”

No, it means the tailcap does not make fully contact with the tube, all you need to do is to screw the tailcap tightly enough.

KR4/KR1 tailcap needs be to be tightly against the pocket clip so that it does not move freely.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Frostcream
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I’ve screwed it together pretty tight. No change.

Hank Wang
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Please check the PM.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Frostcream
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Ok, so I tried an 18650 and the light works great.

The Orbtronic batteries work in my D4V2 mule, but not in this light for some reason.

I’m glad it was pretty simple.

The light looks and feels great.

The attention to detail is evident, as it is in every Emisar/Noctigon light.

Frostcream
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I posted this thread here because I thought I’d get a faster response than if I’d contacted the manufacturer. My experience is that most manufacturers get back to you in a day or so.

Literally less than 5 minutes later Hank himself steps into the thread to help.

Now that’s customer service.

Thanks Hank, I can’t wait to see what else you come up with.

Artiet59
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Frostcream wrote:
I posted this thread here because I thought I’d get a faster response than if I’d contacted the manufacturer. My experience is that most manufacturers get back to you in a day or so.

Literally less than 5 minutes later Hank himself steps into the thread to help.

Now that’s customer service.

Thanks Hank, I can’t wait to see what else you come up with.

this was awesome to see

I am new to this. All help is welcome.

Slee_Stack
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I have a KR4 and had similar results with the 18350 tube. It definitely has to do with the length of the cell.

Firstly, make sure the short tube is oriented correctly. (More threads side screwed into the head)

If the cell is not too long and the tube is oriented right, you should see no hint of the red o-ring on either side when tightened fully.

The short tube works fine for me with an unprotected 18350.

Light Newbie

mbp
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You are semi-engaging factory reset mode when holding the button down, because there is intermittent signal contact (which simulates the factory reset operation of unscrewing, holding the button, and tightening.) Your light does not have good electrical contact with the 18350 tube. The KR series of lights is very sensitive to fitment due to the signal tube design. Check the FW3A FAQ as well, basically the same problems.

If the problem does not resolve, carefully clean the ends of the signal tube and body tube with isopropyl alcohol and allow to fully dry. Screw light together making sure the head and tail are both fully tightened.

Continue to try loosening and then tightening the head and tailcap. If you continue to see no improvement, check the signal tube for any burrs, if so you may need to gently lap the tube end on high grit sandpaper to smooth it out. This is a last resort as you must be careful not to remove too much material. My KR4 tube made poor contact because there were some burrs on the end that prevented full engagement, which very gentle lapping resolved.

Frostcream
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Good information, thanks, friends.