…that have a mechanical switch, few-to-no modes, and a really long runtime on low?
So far all I can think of is the Fenix PD25. It’s said to run for 100 hours at 5 lumens using a lithium primary.
Some threads around here got me thinking about small lights for emergency bags or other long-term stashes. Single CR123 is preferred to avoid voltage mismatch of stored cells, mechanical switch for safer storage and no parasitic drain, few modes for simplicity and long runtime for obvious reasons.
Anything else currently in production that fits the bill?
The other option I’d consider is using a Lithium Primary AA cell (Energizer). Or at least, to look at both types. Quality CR123s and new Energizer Lithium AAs will have similar shelf lives. I think if you try, you can usually find the Lithium AAs at similar prices to CR123s, too.
I still have my old Streamlight ProTac 1AA with an Energizer Lithium in it. It has a pretty low mode, though the LED is blue and the PWM is awful on low. But it could perhaps expand your options.
I do like the Olight M1T Raider! Low level is 5 lumens that supposedly lasts for 100hours.
I carry that light on the strap of my backpack! Forward clicky switch (mechanical), 2 levels only, no blinkies!
Beast of a light, not as small as other lights using the same kind or battery, but it takes a beat without issues. Dual sided clip for cap use, CW led, TIR optic.
Also, you can unscrew the tailcap to cut current if need to prevent accidental activation.
While VERY far from everyones cup of tea, I have been pleased with the Fenix E16. I own two, one has produced just over 86 hrs at 3.3 lumens and the other tested at 4 lumens for 79 hrs. Lumen tests are with a homemade lightbox. YMMV. Ambient test temp, for both, was high 20’s celsius. Both tests were with 3 year old, unused, Panasonic CR123.
These produce a broad, usable beam with decent throw and relatively warm color temp.
It’s becoming hard for me to EDC anything larger than the E16 now, even my favorite JB RRT-01 and TCR-1, feel like bricks after the E16. The E16 is even shorter than my Jil-Lite DD CR2 of CPF lore.
I don’t own a i5T, but it surely seems a good replacement! However, it seems to me that the i5T has the same problem that the i3T has: if you try want to prevend accidental activations by unscrewing the tailcap, it won’t work because the tailcap doesn’t cut the current :zipper_mouth_face:
Outside of the obvious C01/C01S with lithium AAA, I keep a couple of single AA lights for this purpose. OK maybe more than a couple. If you can find some older Quark Mini’s they make excellent hosts for an LED swap. Actually the full size quark AA do as well. I’ve done both with 219B and SST-20 and both came out great.
For 1xCR123 its hard to beat the Eagtac D25c. I have a couple of the titanium versions and they are just a fantastic little light. Another neat option would be a P60 host with one of the numerous aftermarket 3P bodies. P60s are falling out of favor but build parts are still pretty available. Depending on what driver you want to use, you could look at a modular body to run different batteries.
I’m quite partial to high CRI and rarely consider a light that doesn’t have a high CRI emitter unless its to do a LED swap.
Kinda glad someone necro’d this thread. My work light is a 9 year old Malkoff MDC HA (1xCR123). No exaggeration, I’ve used it on the job every day since I got it. It is indispensable to me, and despite every light I’ve owned since, nothing can replace it. The one thing I would appreciate is to have a “vampire” light to feed the depleted cells to finish them off. I need all 3 modes on any given day, and once my primary drops under 2.5 VDC, I have to swap it out as it drops off M/H modes. I just hate pitching those cells, even though they would still power a light on low level. Any suggestions on a budget torch that might fit that niche?
LOL….thanks Jon. Funny that Gene includes a non-rechargeable battery in the marketing shot. 90 beans is a little north of what I was thinking for a burner, and lifetime warranty on the original negates the need for the upgrade. I have enough SF primaries to last another 9 years. No doubt if I was shopping for a replacement, that would be the way to go. Thanks for pointing it out. Didn’t even know they had that available. Love Gene’s stuff, but admittedly it’s been a while since I’ve perused the site.
Willing, yes. Capable? Depends on how in depth ‘mod’ requires. I’m pretty thin when it comes to equipment. I have a Rat-shack (to coin one of your oft used vernaculars) soldering iron, and two left thumbs. What did you have in mind?
Get a D26 drop-in host, stick your choice of emitter and one of those 800mA 1-2 AA boost drivers. Supplies up to 800mA at 3V, more like 500mA at 1.5V. Only 2 wires to solder (driver to LED board).
Then with either a shorty tube or a dummy cell, run one ’123 ’til it craps out. 700mA @ 3V will be about 2W, or 200-250lm output. And it’ll vamp down that ’123 ’til it’s at 1V or less.
’123s don’t usually leak when drawn down, at least “good” brands, so it should be reasonably safe.
Alternatively, get a light that can take 2 ’123s (Nitecores, a lot of Sofirns, etc.), and just run 2 in a row. Just try to “balance” them (ie, check their voltages, try to match ’em).
