【 F I R S T 】Astrolux Diving Flashlight DL01 ✺ INTEREST LIST

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Fin17
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【 F I R S T 】Astrolux Diving Flashlight DL01 ✺ INTEREST LIST

.

 

✺ Astrolux DL01 ✺ 

First Astrolux DIVING Flashlight

 

Group buy price - $xx.xx

 

 

 

 

Features:

Support 21700/18650 battery

XHP50.2 / SST40 will be chosen

Support Type-C charging

Power Indicator button

 

 

 If you are interested notify in this thread (not in PM)

 


 

My thread:

 BangGood.com Deals

 

 

 

 

Edited by: Fin17 on 07/26/2020 - 07:00
Fin17
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Interest list:

 

  1. casi29061965 
  2. luisgcan 
  3. bird eye
  4. Fin17
  5. zeremefico
  6. ...
  7. ...

 

 
Fin17
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If you're a diver, please tell us what are your requirements for a diving flashlight,

and what kind of flashlights do you use when diving.

 

P.S.  It would be interesting to know how many divers on BLF.  )))

Lux-Perpetua
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I must confess, I only dive in my bath tub. Silly

But if I was a diver, following aspects could be important:

  • Good thermal regulation - no timed stepdowns when submerged 
  • Easy UI - no strobes, simple access to modes
  • Large switch button or magnetic ring with good tactile feedback 
  • Maybe a high CRI to have the best color rendition when exploring coral reefs, fishes, etc.
  • Waterproof and solid construction 
AdrianM
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As a diver…

  • I like the usb charging. It means less gear (of which there’s already plenty as a diver).
  • Good knurling and a strong loop, which you’ve already shown. Durable, waterproof build is a given, no need to comment on that.
  • I’d expect an ultra-simple UI, preferably on/off + double click for turbo (Turbo should be pretty decent given the cooling:)
  • 21700 is the ideal cell size, given the increased capacity over an 18650.
  • I’d prefer a smooth reflector to OP, it would help cut through sediment often encountered when diving. Maybe offer both options as other might prefer flood.
  • Color-temp and CRI requirements will vary from one diver to another. I’d personally prefer the slightly better throw of whiter temp, but like Lux-Perpetua said, anyone exploring reefs, etc might prefer a warmer/high-CRI option
casi29061965
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Interested.

luisgcan
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Interested

bird eye
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Interested.

Skylight
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The Sofirn SD05 apparently has problems with corrosion when used for longer. The anodisation gets scratched and in salt water the aluminium starts to corrode. This is because the current passes through the flashlight body.

I would suggest to use an internal tube to pass the current from the tail to the head. If no current flows through the outer flashlight body salt water will not corrode it.

A triple or quad reflector with SST20 leds would be better than a SST40 or XHP50. 4000K 95 CRI should be awesome at a coral reef. Love

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Fin17
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Lux-Perpetua

AdrianM

Skylight

 

Thanks for your opinions!  Thumbs Up

 

 

P.S.: I hope that this flashlight can be successfully used on the surface.

Lux-Perpetua
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Not sure if it’s worth considering but some (optional) beacon light in the switch button or a phosphorescent / fluorescent GITD band might be useful if the diver suddenly drops his light while exploring a dark cavern.

Fin17
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If you are in a dark cave, then your flashlight is already on.  )))
And if you drop it, then it will be visible.

arek98
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Hi

For diving in low visibility, like here NJ shore I would like throwy beam with not too much spill. Visibility is usually about 15-25ft (5-8m) and lot of sediment floating around. Maybe TIR would be even better. 21700 is good for battery, about 1000lm output is enough. Two modes about 40% and 100%. CRI does not matter for me too much.
If you could fit blue or green laser operated by second momentary switch for signaling it would be useful.

For diving in clear water (Caribbean reef like) there are two scenarios.
Day time when light is used to look into all kind of holes and night.
At night you may want some more spill to see more around you.

That being said for me that would be a backup light.
Most of my diving is in Caribbean like water. And I think there is a lot of people that dive occasionally when on vacation and would like to have some photos from dive.
People who dive often in the area where they live (no issue with amount of gear because of luggage restrictions and such) are whole different customer group.
Pretty much on every dive I have a camera (small one since I don’t feel a need for professional setup with arms, dedicated light and such).
Because of that my most used light is Big Blue (something like VTL2600P – older version don’t remember model and if it was ever written on the light is gone now)
With that I can use only one light, using central LED with reflector like the lights above and have photo/video light as needed.
I have camera in one hand, light in another, with separate video light I would need to switch between them potentially using BSD pocket so not used one is not just hanging around on lanyard.
Personally I don’t find a use of red LEDs on such light. If anything I would prefer royal blue (bio-luminescence) but that just make UI much more complex.
Again 1000lm for spot is good, higher CRI not required, color preferably in 5000K range. Two modes 40%, 100%
For video two modes are ok for me, currently my light has 3 and I never use lowest mode. 40% and 100% sound about right. Hi CRI here also about 5000K. High efficiency COB or (edit:no COB, reflector is in the middle) multiple LEDs, more than 5000lm on high
For that one since it needs more juice I think I would be ok with 2 battery setup 18650 or 21700 side by side (head will be larger anyway) and personally I prefer it to be somewhat thicker rather than longer (easier to fit in BCD pocket, some pockets are pretty shallow and long light will stick out)
Maybe two switches to operate both modes separately or even turn them both at the same time.

General
1. No current passing thru the body, internal tube for one battery light or with 2 batteries side by side holder will solve that.
2. Thermal stepdown is ok but no timer of any kind (like some lights), thermal stepdown will help if light is used outside of water or turned on accidently , in water as long as there is good path between body and pill (LED, driver) there is no problem
3. Cut-off at about 2.8-3V for unprotected batteries maybe with some warning flash when close to it.
4. Good lanyard attachment.
5. I like USB charging, make sure is waterproof, i.e., does not leak into battery compartment if some water gets under cap. Would be better if light did not need to be open at all for charging (even if is slower) but that may be too much to ask. For small light most likely not feasible, for larger (this spot/video combo) maybe wireless charging (2 side by side body may be flat but that would require it to be non-metal, e.g., Delrin), maybe two exposed salt water resistant contact, reed switch inside and magnet in plug (so they are not electrically connected while underwater)
6. Stainless still bezel, smooth, no crenelation (I sometimes use light to bang on air tank, aluminum bezel gets damaged ☹)
7. 2h+ runtime on high
8. With 2 (or more batteries setup) it would be better to have them in parallel but I know it would be easier to work with higher voltage. Can be in series for 2 batteries.

So, for me there is plenty of these “backup” lights but if you can make that second and price is reasonable (I think less than $100 but may depend) I’m buying at least 2.

zeremefico
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In, any info about the modes?
It would be great if there was no mode cycling, just last mode memory.
Long press to change mode.

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Sari33
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Skylight wrote:
would suggest to use an internal tube to pass the current from the tail to the head. If no current flows through the outer flashlight body salt water will not corrode it.

A triple or quad reflector with SST20 leds would be better than SST40 or XHP50.


I agree regard use internal contact tube to avoid body corrosion in salt water,anyway still small compact size.
I also like have Red body color,simple ramping driver and triple/quad sst20 2700k(JA3).
But when for a small AA/14500 diving light?
Fin17
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The inner contact tube will not be in this flashlight. It's already in production.

Perhaps in other diving models of Astrolux.

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active

arek98
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Hi Fin17
I see you put me on the list. I never said I’m interested, I’m not if this is what it is. You asked about opinion of divers so I answered. I wrote if you make second one I wrote about I will be interested.
Also we still don’t know what kind of user interface it has.

Boro
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AdrianM wrote:
As a diver…
  • I like the usb charging. It means less gear (of which there’s already plenty as a diver).
  • Good knurling and a strong loop, which you’ve already shown. Durable, waterproof build is a given, no need to comment on that.
  • I’d expect an ultra-simple UI, preferably on/off + double click for turbo (Turbo should be pretty decent given the cooling:)
  • 21700 is the ideal cell size, given the increased capacity over an 18650.
  • I’d prefer a smooth reflector to OP, it would help cut through sediment often encountered when diving. Maybe offer both options as other might prefer flood.
  • Color-temp and CRI requirements will vary from one diver to another. I’d personally prefer the slightly better throw of whiter temp, but like Lux-Perpetua said, anyone exploring reefs, etc might prefer a warmer/high-CRI option

+1 smooth reflector, even slightly cloudy water makes OP poor choice
+ 1 thermal not timed
I rarely use anything other than high mode so 21700 best
Strobe is often used to signal other divers
Extra O rings

Fin17
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arek98

got it

aswang
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Interested depending on price. I agree SMO might be better for underwater use. I haven’t use any diving lights for scuba dives but they’re also very useful for wet caving.

arek98
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Fin17 can you tell us what UI it has?
obriencr
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Interested

COB

sandanbob
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Interested. Thanks!

Scallywag
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Carrying a current through the body is not an issue. The issue is a potential difference on the exterior of the light only. Otherwise, yes, damage to the anodization will result in corrosion just because of the nature of salt water.

Please refer to this thread for reference.

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