[US Only] Free Thrunite Ti3 v2 on Thrunite.com (with $5.95 shipping fee)

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how crazy is this
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Just got my NW example today. Ordered 3 more because I really like it. Was going to say that I really like the improvement with the V2 CW over my Ti3 CW from 2016. It is noticeably brighter and all modes are just a tad more useful. The moonlight might be just a tad too bright but it is still very nice. The CW is fine and I think the beam pattern is excellent for what it is. Nice large soft bright spot and good spill. Decent tint that is not too cool. However, I really like the NW better. Pretty much a taste thing I guess.

If I wore a baseball cap regularly I don’t think I would ever go back to a headlamp for dog walking. This light clipped on to a cap is a fantastic headlamp! Of course it can be easy to twist the clip off when changing modes. Managed to drop it onto concrete a time or two until I remembered that. Doing the Lightbringer trick of cleaning and fresh lube helps.

So far all of my V2s have no memory or perhaps a 2.5 second memory. My V1 works like the chart on the store page. Off for less than 2 seconds advance to next mode. Off 2 to 10 seconds memory. Off more than 10 seconds back to low. With the V2 if the light is on for more than 2 or 3 seconds, off goes back to Low. There is no memory. I am fine with this. I like the way V1 works better but over all the V2 is just a better light and I can live with this because it is consistent and works well for this kind of light. Also, there seems to be less inadvertent advancement to the next mode which used to drive me nuts with the V1.

FWIW, earlier today I went to get more of the NW and they were sold out. Said try again tomorrow so I tried just a bit ago and it worked.

Wade

river345
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Lightbringer wrote:
Unno, maybe without the keyring in there it’d end up poking you in all the wrong places, but with a ring in there, I don’t think anything would get close enough to the pointy part, would it?

So after I posted the picture I put the ring on it to see if it solves the issue as you suggested. Not really. The ring only covers one side of the L. The non-chamfered edges of that L is really sharp.

This is the first light I’ve noticed sharp edges on.

Boaz
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for the money invested just break out a file and knock down the sharp edges .Finish up with some fine grit sandpaper and then buff it to a shine .

Or you could add a trit to the hole . glue it in and add a magnet that covered the tail.

 I'm not a huge fan of sharp edges either but these didn't seem to be jumping out at me like  sharp ends of a clicky .Could be the fact I'm messing more with the head on a twisty than the tail.

 

Got my 5 CW models in 2 days I started going thru them to see if somehow I'd won the tint lottery but after three realized it was probably more about the anti reflective lens coating than actual tint.  So I decided to add some 1/8th  minus green lee filter which immediately made the tint go from ehhh/ meh... to much better  . A quick 2 minute mod that made these lights much nicer.

  When deciding which tint  to keep or not to keep I realized the differences weren't going to be tint .. rather the moon/ firefly modes . One light had a markedly dimmer low mode ..about half of the other two I was playing with . Now I'll have to go and see if it is the only one or not . Most lows are acceptably low lows at about a half a lumen maybe less ..but one is like half of that .. a true fire fly .

 Thrunite in the past is pretty well known for having really good low lows .

 

 tint is good and low is crazy low ... I'm a happy camper  

 

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

how crazy is this
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Boaz wrote:

for the money invested

I am amazed at the amount of quality machining delivered at this price. OTOH it is probably a good investment on ThruNite’s part.

Boaz wrote:


I’m not a huge fan of sharp edges either but these didn’t seem to be jumping out at me like  sharp ends of a clicky .Could be the fact I’m messing more with the head on a twisty than the tail.



Have been carrying one in my pocket for a couple of days now. Didn’t notice. Looked at it again and it is indeed sharp. Looking at my 2016 one it has everything except the trit from said pocket(s)
Boaz wrote:

  When deciding which tint  to keep or not to keep I realized the differences weren’t going to be tint .. rather the moon/ firefly modes . One light had a markedly dimmer low mode ..about half of the other two I was playing with . Now I’ll have to go and see if it is the only one or not . Most lows are acceptably low lows at about a half a lumen maybe less ..but one is like half of that .. a true fire fly .

Thanks for pointing that out! Moonlight is important to me. I will be checking mine as well! On the one hand I don’t know if I can truly discern tint and don’t think it is all that important. On the other I am truly thinking of applying that wisdom to the NW versions because I really want a low moonlight but I like the NW tint. Would have no idea of what was different or how to correct it with film that I don’t have.

NoDa775
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Could you measure the reflector size? Maybe I could find a TIR that could fit…

I have become one of the infected...

how crazy is this
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NoDa775 wrote:
Could you measure the reflector size? Maybe I could find a TIR that could fit…

I get an OD of 11.74mm and it is 6.12mm deep. Hope that helps.

turkeydance
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xevious, what a great idea for strobe use.

obviously, i couldn’t come up with it myself.

the simplest solutions usually are the best.

moderator007
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I just had to do it, I swapped out the emitter for a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri. Lumens down to about 80 lumens using a Ladda AAA (Eneloop pro). Well worth the swap to me.
While I was in there I had a look at that driver. The driver uses 3 resistors for the modes similar to the tool AAA.
High is just a current limiting resistor .075 ohms for use with a 10440 i presume. With a AAA its in boost mode so the resistor isn’t really doing much and could probably be omitted if your only going to use a AAA Nimh or alkaline.
Med uses a 1R2 1.2 ohms resistor
Low or moonlght uses a 200 ohm resistor in the 0402 size (tiny) . I tried using a 470 ohm resistor and that was a little to low, more like a very weak firefly mode. A actually firefly would probably give of more light than what my light using a 470 ohm resistor did, I can barely even tell its on unless its in a dark area. My guess would be if you want a lower low change the resistor to some where in the 250 ohms range or maybe higher if you like low really low. If the factory low is to low for your already, change it to something lower, guessing 170 ohms depending on high bright of a low you like.
.
I dont have any pics as I was just in there to do a emitter swap and one thing lead to another, maybe in a few days when I get some resistors to play with I’ll take a few pics.
The resistors are not hard to spot though. There all connected to the negative led wire. I think the high and med resistors are 0603 size and they will be soldered directly to the led negative wire. The low resistor in 0402 size is right beside them (unmarked) and has a trace that runs to the led negative wire. You can check it with a DMM, it should read 200 ohms or at least mine did.
If anyone is interested I can take a few pics showing more details.

Anthony Nguyenn
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moderator007 wrote:
I just had to do it, I swapped out the emitter for a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri. Lumens down to about 80 lumens using a Ladda AAA (Eneloop pro). Well worth the swap to me.

If anyone is interested I can take a few pics showing more details.

Yes, yes, please. I was tempting to do an emitter swap either SST-20 or LH351D. I prefer Samsung since it more efficient and floodier.
Can we get a beam shot, please?

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Nichia + CW| Lumintop Tool AAA | Lumintop EDC 18 6500k| Lumintop EDC 01| Convoy S2+ 7135*8 5000k | Convoy S2 UV Nichia |Massdrop Vega AA NW |BLF A6 NW | Nitecore Tube 2.0 | Sofirn SD 05 | Sofirn 01S 4000k| Klaurus G15 | Klarus HR1 Pro | Thrunite T10T v2 NW| Thrunite T1 Black + OD Green | Thrunite Ti3 CW+ NW| |Rovyvon A3x Nichia | Rovyvon A5x Cree | Rovyvon A23 Nichia | Wuben E19 Nichia | MecArmy SGN 6 | Wowtac BSS V4 | Wowtac W1 | Wowtac H01 | Ultratac A3N Nichia | Wurkkos FC11 |  Wurkkos WK30

Thrunite T2 |

moderator007
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Im going to swap in a Samsung Red LH351H in one of these , hopefully soon. I’ll take a few pics this time. Thumbs Up

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I bought two with the NW emitter, before I read this thread, then I worried I should have ordered the CW version. But I received the lights today, and I’m very satisfied with the NW tints. There might be a bit of purple at the edges of the corona, but other than that, I think the tints look very nice. Not too yellow for me, either – and I like the output levels, too. These things will be handy.

pennzy
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The T1 is tempting too.

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pennzy wrote:
The T1 is tempting too.

Yeah, I know what you mean, but I can’t use lights with non-removable magnets attached, so I have to pass that one up.

moderator007
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NorthernHarrier wrote:
pennzy wrote:
The T1 is tempting too.

Yeah, I know what you mean, but I can’t use lights with non-removable magnets attached, so I have to pass that one up.


I amost pulled the trigger on the T1 also. I have so many of these small type lights already, I slowly moved my finger off the trigger and ordered the Ti3.
longuylander
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I went for the green T1 in NW. It’s a great size, the magnet is strong (if that’s a good thing for you), the switch feels and works wonderfully, it handles heat quite well, and it’s got a great clip. It’s a pretty nice little light, though does have some flaws.

First, it’s length makes unprotected 18350 batteries barely fit; the battery it comes with is much longer – and even with it it’s possible to get the light to flicker if accidentally banged hard enough, making the battery rattle and disconnect from the button in the head.

Second, there’s no way to go from moonlight to ramping. The light must be turned off and then back on, where the light will return to the memory setting within the ramp.

Third, the ramping is a bit slow, but more frustrating, it always goes in the opposite direction from the last use. So unless you remember which way you ramped the last time you used the light, you’re never sure which way it will ramp the next time you use it. Being that the ramp is slow, it takes a moment to determine if the ramping is going the direction you want.

Fourth, it’s OVERLY floody. Some may like this, but comparing it to lights with less than half its power (like the Olight S1 Mini), it uses up all its extra lumens and larger battery capacity to get the same intensity. Unless your peripheral vision is astoundingly good, you’ll wish some of that flood was more focused.

arow55
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Ordered nw one. Just saw this thread. Thanks. Can you reverse the clip for use on cap?

sri
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Yes. Ti3 comes with reversible clip

Sri

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longuylander wrote:
I went for the green T1 in NW. It’s a great size, the magnet is strong (if that’s a good thing for you), the switch feels and works wonderfully, it handles heat quite well, and it’s got a great clip. It’s a pretty nice little light, though does have some flaws.

Third, the ramping is a bit slow, but more frustrating, it always goes in the opposite direction from the last use. So unless you remember which way you ramped the last time you used the light, you’re never sure which way it will ramp the next time you use it. Being that the ramp is slow, it takes a moment to determine if the ramping is going the direction you want.

This is the same UI as the TH20. It took me way too long to figure that out and it is indeed frustrating. What I am most embarrassed by was how long it took me to realize that you just needed to release and re-hold to change direction of the ramp. Now that I have that figured out, and given the fact that it has memory as well as direct access to high and moonlight, it is a very useable UI for me. It isn’t that bad to fiddle with the ramp to get the level I want and then it will hold that level in memory. Usually if I want a different level I will frequently want max output for a short time or I will want moonlight. Both direct. No problem.

arow55
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sri wrote:
Yes. Ti3 comes with reversible clip

Thanks.
arow55
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Ordered CW before NW got here while I can. Have an unrelated question. Haven’t been paying as much attention to this forum in the last year as I should have. Using my lights plenty just haven’t been keeping up. Question is is there anything new I need to know about. Know about LEP technology.

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This is untested yet besides the low resistor was tested. Guessing from what I have seen from other drivers with this 3 parallel different value resistor stack
.
The Low resistor measures 200 ohms, a higher value will make a lower low. I tried 470 ohms and thats to high a value with a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri.
I have several different values of resistors on order to try to find my perfect low. I prefer a firefly low, just enough to see in pitch black darkness without tripping on stuff.
I took pics this time when I modded one of these Ti3’s to a cree XPG3 in photo red 645nm. XPGDPR-L1-0000-00F01
.

.
NW factory Ti3 on the left, shaved LH351D 3500k 90cri on the right. White balance set at 5000k.
The factory NW Ti3 has noticeable green around the cornea in person that doesn’t show so much in the pic.
.

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White balance set to 4500k.
.

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Ti3 with XPG3 in photo red 645nm.
.

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My pic doesn’t look anything like it does in person. The hotspot is a deep red fading into the spill which is less intense. The beam pattern looks just like original but the color is a deep red with a very intense deep red hotspot. My lumen tube reported 30 lumens using a eneloop pro but it looks way brighter than that. I was surpprised at just how bright it is using a 1.5v battery, maybe it has something to with the color and my eyes. I dont think anyone has tested a XPG3 photo red yet to know what its capable of. I purchased 3 red leds to try LH351H, XP-E2, and XP-G3. The XP-G3 has a larger die than the other two with a higher max current of 1.5 amps, so thats the one I decided to go with. Using a Li-ion in this light should be interesting with the right setup.
All the pics above where taken in low mode with the factory 200 ohm resistor.
.
Top: shaved LH351D 3500k 90cri
Bottom: XP-G3 photo red.
.

.
These pics are just a reference, for one I’m no photographer, for two what you actually see in person can vary alot from a phone pic.

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moderator007 wrote:
These pics are just a reference, …what you actually see in person can vary alot from a phone pic.

Outstanding work and info shared
really like the comparison photos

and appreciate the Red LED info too

using red light is for fully dark situations.. I dont think it needs to be very bright to see at close range

great idea to use Ti3 hosts for red LED experiments..

here is another inexpesive 3 mode twisty
looks like it was made by the same factory that produces the Ti3

arow55
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Got one of each today. Liked NW more so ordered another.

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I didn’t see this offer until a couple of days ago and grabbed one NW. I had one, but somehow lost it. Its a great little light for $6. It was my sole light on a 3 week backpacking trip a few years ago, never regretting making that choice.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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Thanks to OP for posting this deal. I didn’t notice it until today, luckily the Ti3 is still available! I ordered two CW and one NW for less than $18 total. Very interested in seeing what a 0.04 lumen mode actually looks like compared to other flashlights I own. This is probably the least expensive firefly option light available if I’m not mistaken. I’m not even sure if I can get my apartment dark enough (big windows, even with blackout curtains) to make a firefly mode useful.

Coincidentally, my Fireflies Stainless AA just spontaneously showed up in USPS tracking today with delivery also today! That light is known to have PWM. How about the Ti3? Any PWM worth mentioning? I’m guessing since The Whispering indicated it’s a resistor limited FET driver, there’s no PWM to speak of? http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71189

Attempting to build a Convoy of Convoys.

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Boaz wrote:

Got my 5 CW models in 2 days I started going thru them to see if somehow I’d won the tint lottery but after three realized it was probably more about the anti reflective lens coating than actual tint.  So I decided to add some 1/8th  minus green lee filter which immediately made the tint go from ehhh/ meh… to much better  . A quick 2 minute mod that made these lights much nicer.

Excellent! Good to hear this. Do you have a tip on trimming a filter in a perfect circle? I was thinking of using a compass…
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Almost all of my nonsticky diffusion films, I just pop the glass, hold glass and film between my fingers, trim with scissors, scrupulously wash the glass and film(!) on both sides with detergent to make sure it’s all spotlessly clean, then reassemble everything.

On my Xeno, somehow I managed to trim the film so that it just stuck on the front face and doesn’t come off. Probably the edges wedged themselves in lightly between O-ring and bezel or O-ring and glass. Some bubblegum or tape or anything, and it’d pop right off.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Anyone know where to source better glass for these? Preferably not-AR coated?

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Jon_slider found some Sapphire glass for the RRT-01 at ebay. I think I remember him saying that someone would custom size these also.
If you search ebay for sapphire watch glass they have several offerings but none I see that would fit the Ti3. I think it could be sanded down to fit.
Hopefully Jon_slider can way in, as he did alot of reasearch with sapphire glass.

moderator007
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You can save 5% off your order by using code “THRUNITE”.
I ordered two more just now and it saves .60 cents ordering two Ti3’s.

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