How about a Orange Dry with a brown center :) Tutorial as well!!!

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ChibiM
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Nobody got stuck with a tailcap that didn't screw on easily? So after their "hot-air"bath, everything stays at their old size? Nothing shrinks?
Don
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One removes everything that might be melted first. Including tailcaps and the like.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Mr.BrightLights
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Go get em old lumens ,lol. Yes disassemble the entire light , only cook or torch the aluminum parts that are anodized, burnt rubber stinks;)lol
ChibiM
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Sorry, I wasn't talking about the rubber parts, but about the tailcap itself, without the rubber/plastic parts. I suppose that heating up aluminum will let it expand a bit And I thought that 2 parts could get a little different afterwards and not fit anymore.?? Tailcap and body, or head / bezel and body
mizjif
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I am also concerned about change in the aluminums properties.

There is a chance they could lose strength isn't there? Or deform in some way?  

I had some pricey cast aluminum rims and just the heat used to bake them after being powdercoated took away alot of their strength. I know its just a flashlight, not a critical automotive part, but I just think bad things when I think of heating aluminum now lol. 

 

I was worried about the tolerances being off after 'broiling' my tight-tolerance built flashlight haha

Mr.BrightLights
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ChibiM wrote:
Sorry, I wasn't talking about the rubber parts, but about the tailcap itself, without the rubber/plastic parts. I suppose that heating up aluminum will let it expand a bit And I thought that 2 parts could get a little different afterwards and not fit anymore.?? Tailcap and body, or head / bezel and body
I don't think that should be an issue unless u heat it to a melting point , which I don't recommend Smile I and it seems many here now haven't had a part not fitting back issue yet but again just my two cents , I'm no pro ,I'm just a person that likes to experiment ,lol
Don
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No issues here. The melting point of aluminium is 660C so we aren't even close to the point where dimensional changes will matter.

 

The alloys used in lights will melt at a lower temperature than that 6061 melts at around 600F

 

Dimensional changes may matter a oven temperatures but I've not seen them to be an issue.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

dthrckt
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probably worth mentioning, I'm stripping the ano from aforementioned D1 (w/ super clean) and the parts that I heated VERY hot w/ the torch are much more difficult to strip.  Probably doesn't imply the coating is more resistant to mechanical wear, but it is definitely more resistant to alkali

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Chicago X
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From what I could glean from the interwebs, it's likely due to a contraction in pore size.

During anodizing, it's recommended to rinse with COLD water before applying dyes, as hot water will close the pores in the metal, inhibiting dye penetration.

I bet that once the reaction starts, it comes off with extended soaking time.

 

I plan on doing some selective ano removal, then off to the broiler.  Orange/silver, anyone ?

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

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Mr.BrightLights
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Well this is funny , u will never guess this nor wouldni, my wife and I were cooking some shake and bake pork chops and she saw me playing with my dry the other nigh and asked me to do hers, lmao so while oven was hot I stuck it in there , but I have to have one of the coolest wives ever ,hahaha I'll post pics when done
Chicago X
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The Sipik looks very nice after the trip to the spa.

 

 

Max30 wrote:

Color Change using Plumbing Torch

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

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weiser
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dthrckt wrote:

i have a feeling you've just started quite a fad!

 

Do you happen to have any good stock picks or lottery numbers you'd like to share? Laughing

Mr.BrightLights
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Bet the house on the giants Sunday ,lol I'm kidding
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Mr.BrightLights wrote:
Well this is funny , u will never guess this nor wouldni, my wife and I were cooking some shake and bake pork chops and she saw me playing with my dry the other nigh and asked me to do hers, lmao so while oven was hot I stuck it in there , but I have to have one of the coolest wives ever ,hahaha I'll post pics when done

the fact that she even owns one proves that!

so, the ano wouldn't come off the bezel at ALL - 2 or 3 hours in super clean - I even took it out once and heated the super clean in the microwave.  for comparison, all the ano came off the tailcap in less than 15 minutes.

I just sandblasted the whole thing because on other parts where some came off, but not all of it, the exposed aluminum was fizzing from reaction with the super clean

I also tried scraping the spots the super clean wouldn't remove - the heat definitely made it MUCH tougher than the original finish

YMMV...

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Mr.BrightLights
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Cool so now we have HA 2.5 lol For Free Btw when I bought the first 2100 ,she said quickly she wanted one , she liked it better than her surefire and it was brighter ,lol
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I had no idea . . . definitely gonna try this tomorrow.

 

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edc
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I had a brand new oven installed last night. Should I hmmmm. yes- no yes- no yes- no. Maybe I need  to start a Poll. hmmm. ah- no.  But I do have a heat gun. lol

 

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edc
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I just blowtorched my kdc8. Took only 2 min per piece. Photo is pending

 

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Chicago X
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Aren't you supposed to run a new oven on HI, to burn off any manufacturing residue?  

You would actually be doing your wife a favor by doing that step for her.....Tongue Out

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edc
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Chicago X wrote:

Aren't you supposed to run a new oven on HI, to burn off any manufacturing residue?  

You would actually be doing your wife a favor by doing that step for her.....Tongue Out

she already did that- otherwise I could have got away with it.my blowtorch is much quicker though it pays to heat it evenly.

I ended up cooling the parts in water. warning it takes a while to cool. Notice the colour variation. That was caused by heating one side too much.

 

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Mr.BrightLights
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I actually like the two tone look , I did my dry on purpose , possibly the oven heats the parts evenly so u get a closer match , but I think some parts may have been anodized at different times and u get a variation in color changing ,maybe?
edc
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I think thicker aluminium heats up slightly slower too but then cools slower so more time to change the color. I should have immersed it quicker. Great idea. Next time I will try my heat gun instead.

 

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Mr.BrightLights
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I'm going to do my grey shadow pro when it gets here with a heat gun and see what happens;) I think grey turns real green but it could be that dark olive turns real green ,I can't remember ,lol
edc
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 It is an improvement. Some lights the ano looks more like paint. I think heating it helps smooth out the apperance. I love the look of my kd c8. Has a copper look about it. Tomorrow I will do another. I wonder what colour this light would change to

 

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1

unique engrish language... Smile

 

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My old P7 C8:


I like the two tone effect. Pictures don't do it justice. Bezel and tube are lighter copper, head and tail cap darker copper. Even my wife, who thinks I'm insane liked the look. For some reason the head and tube on this light are glued together and no force known to me can break the bond. Anyway, the head and tail are thicker and should probably have cooked longer.

For future reference, cooked at 350 for 1 hour and only noticed a slight change in the bezel; pumped the oven up to 500 and started to see the process working within 15 minutes, left it in for another 25 after the wife started complaining about me stinking up the house. This is really fun. I can see coming up with some wild variations.

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edc wrote:
I wonder what colour this light would change to

I have this host, and it isn't an anodized body; it's a rubbery paint-like coating. It actually gives the light nice grip, but I'm worried about it scratching because it doesn't seem like it would be extremely durable.


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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I have a few of the sorta ugly blue Saiks ....it can't be any worse

Who's gonna do their blue/grey  Rominsen ?

MAX30..Did you get the asperic lens out of the sipik or heat it with the lens in it ?  I can't really see the tail is that still black too? opening up a sipik tail looks like a pain ..too cheap .

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

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Boaz wrote:

I have a few of the sorta ugly blue Saiks ....it can't be any worse

Who's gonna do their blue/grey  Rominsen ?

MAX30..Did you get the asperic lens out of the sipik or heat it with the lens in it ?  I can't really see the tail is that still black too? opening up a sipik tail looks like a pain ..too cheap .

The Sipik switch is pressed in, along with the lens. I was able to remove the switch and the lens by pressing them back out. No guarantees that yours is made the same as mine though. In my case, the lens wasn't glued, but was very tight, but by putting my weight onto it, I was able to pop it out without damaging it.

<edit>I have a cheap junk/incan light from Harbor Freight that is a blue anodized light. I'm willing to sacrifice that light to the toaster oven to see what kind of results we get, provided I can get this light fully disassembled... Anyone going to try their red Tank007?


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

keltex78
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Here's couple more:

L-R

  1. Super-Bright 7-2 shown earlier
  2. Smiling Shark light from MF
  3. MXDL 3xAAA light from DX


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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