How about a Orange Dry with a brown center :) Tutorial as well!!!

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gcbryan
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Now that I've had a chance to play around with this process a bit I'll give my thoughts and feedback and I'd be interested to hear from others as well.

Most of my lights/parts turned copper within 10 minutes. Some of the smaller/thiner parts began turning much sooner (closer to 5 minutes or so).

This effect IMO looks better when there is some knurling on the flashlight. Conversely the effect is least attractive (to me) when the light is smooth and you let all of the parts match each other.

It is interesting to see a dark (black) light turn medium light copper.

Once the change in color begins it progresses pretty rapidly so it's hard to notice just before the change and it's hard to control if you would like a deeper tone.

If lights were originally available in either black or copper most of us would still probably not have picked copper :)

To me the fun aspect of this process is to learn how it works, how to control it and then to picture the effect ahead of time so that you can have something more interesting than an all copper light.

I baked lights that were originally black as well as lights that were originally sort of dark tan or dark olive and the color after the baking process is still more or less the same...copper.

This is an effect that also looks better on smaller lights IMO (P60 and smaller).

It's also only worth it to me for lights that are easily taken apart with no chance of ruining the light by taking it apart.

Anyone have any different thoughts or experiences?

BetweenRides
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Just have a minute, Bryan before I head off to work. Good points, all. Copper is not exactly my favorite color, which is why I'm happy with the C8 in the multi shades. My best experiment was with my Yezl Z1 - turned out gunmetal/brown, not really copper. Breathed new life into a light I didn't really like before. The act of taking it apart and putting it back together seems to have helped it's performance. I had another light that I could not get completely apart so I couldn't bake it. Maybe someday I'll figure out how to fully disassemble it, but for now I'm afraid I'll break it if I do.

I found watching the process fascinating. In the oven the color change was more gradual, but also harder to see. Looking at all the different colors and hues achieved on different lights was cool. This has been a great thread.

DrJones
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The lower one was 'blow-torched' only, the upper one first baked in the oven, tailstanding, then additionally blow-torched a bit at the head, too.

Foy
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I like the good doctor's fade.

 

blowtorchFoy

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Sonofspectrum
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I tried this out on a cheap torch i got  for my daughter. I put it under the grill as close as I could with some foil under neath. It took about 10 minutes to turn this bronze colour. Its a nice colour though the photos dont do it justice.

(sorry if the photos arn't great its my first attempt)

It's moments of madness that keep us sane.

apt323
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Foy wrote:

bryan -

Hmmm . . . maybe I can make my unloved, gold-supposed-to-be-sand L2 less ugly.

 

cannotbeanyworseFoy

 

Did you get a chance to bake the gold L2 if so how did it turn out?

 

cainn
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Tried this on a tail piece of an UltraFire KF-T60

The silver anodizing becomes a much warmer silver, closer to the colour of the bezel. I like it. Going to do the whole body tomorrow Smile

jaynick
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Foy wrote:

bryan -

Hmmm . . . maybe I can make my unloved, gold-supposed-to-be-sand L2 less ugly.

 

cannotbeanyworseFoy

did you try this yet? im probably gonna try baking my sand l2 along with a black l2m this coming week. that golden sand is strange as is.

edc
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I would be suprised if baking the sand will change the color very much. If you bake a black host long enough it will go a sand colour but it will need to get very hot. I have noticed baking can improve the anno on some poorly ano’d lights.

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

gords1001
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Awesome, I had to have a go……

Just stripped it to bare aluminum components, turned on the blow lamp and there you go. :bigsmile:

I actually did the bezel separate, hence the much lighter gold colour, but I like it, it makes the c8 really pop.

cainn
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Sorta hated this host for the most part. Something kinda cool about it now. I am presently debating about whether or not to put the head and the tail cap in as well, but for much longer so they come out a brighter copper colour. I like contrasting colours.

DarkSide
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A Cerakote oven bake or air dry kit will yield a much better coating and you can pick a few colors.
Nice job nonetheless!

 


cainn
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Black Solarforce L2i, but not anymore!

Terrible photo really, as it looks much classier in person.

BetweenRides
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cainn24 wrote:
Black Solarforce L2i, but not anymore! !http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r495/cainn24/l2i.jpg! Terrible photo really, as it looks much classier in person.

Picture looks gold on my monitor - did it really come out that way or is it more copper? Either way, that turned out nice.

Funny how they come out differently. My old P7 C8 is several shades of copper, my Yezl Z1 more of an antique copper/gunmetal color.

UPz
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I wonder what colour will come after if I cook the FF S3:

cainn
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@BetweenRides

It really did come out gold. Well, the head and the knurled part of the body anyway. There is actually a separate piece between the knurling and the head which came out a sort of greyish army green type colour. The tail piece came out the same way, although it’s hard to tell in the photo. Seems that there were two different sorts of anodizing in play.

BetweenRides
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Now that you mention it, I can see the greenish tint. That turned out very nice. I like it much better than the Solarforce sand color (which looks more like a pimp's tooth  Silly ).

cainn
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BetweenRides wrote:

Now that you mention it, I can see the greenish tint. That turned out very nice. I like it much better than the Solarforce sand color (which looks more like a pimp’s tooth  Silly ).

It really does look very very nice in person, and there is more contrast between the greyish green and the gold. But I only have my shitty phone camera to use at the moment unfortunately.

cainn
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Somewhat better photo:

First time I’ve seen it in daylight myself. Copperish gold, and goldish green, it would seem Smile

JohnnyMac
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cainn24 wrote:
Somewhat better photo:

First time I’ve seen it in daylight myself. Copperish gold, and goldish green, it would seem Smile


Looks like a good partner for the King. I like it!
edc
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cainn24 wrote:
Somewhat better photo:

First time I’ve seen it in daylight myself. Copperish gold, and goldish green, it would seem Smile

You really applied some heat to that to get that color.

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

cainn
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edc wrote:
You really applied some heat to that to get that color.

My oven only goes up to 250° C, but it’s fan forced so I positioned the L2i components right at the back, exactly where all the hot air rushes out. I also bent some aluminium foil up behind them and at the sides to create a little heat trap (not really sure how much difference that would have made though).

Full baking time was about 45 minutes after a preheat.

So yeah, I did what I could Smile

edc
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I might have to give my KD C8 another blast.

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

Chicken Drumstick
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Does this work with MagLites too? They are Type II anodizing.

gords1001
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Maybe, you’ll have to fully strip it though, anything that’ll not like heat – lense, reflector, switch, batteries, o rings etc.

Extra Bright
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Tube from a random $5 cheapie:

A little work with a butane soldering torch gave me a subtle fade from one color to the next:

The light reassembled:

If I did it again, I run the fade in the opposite direction. Here it is in natural light:

I think it’s perfect colors for Halloween. :hat:

I might try it again, with the bottom 1/3 of the tube in a small bowl of water or veggie oil to dissipate the heat.

It’s a flashlight…..drawn with a flashlight. Lightpainting 101

gcbryan
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Nice fade!

JohnnyMac
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gcbryan wrote:
Nice fade!
Ditto! Looks great!
Extra Bright
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Thank you. :bigsmile: This stuff is addictive though. I may go buy another light just to try the flame treatment on the tube again.

It’s a flashlight…..drawn with a flashlight. Lightpainting 101

gords1001
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I really want to get some of the heat resistive putty that car body restorers use, I wonder if it’d allow a full flame job from head to tailcap?

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