Replacment LED for Sofirn sp33

Hi,
I want to replace a burn LED for a friend's Sofirn sp33
As far as I understand it is a XHP50 6V



Is the difference between the 3 and 6 Volt versions is only in the MPCB?
1. So when ordering a new LED I need one that comes on a 6v MPCB?
2. If I reflow it by myself, using the original MPCB there is only one XHP50 version (voltage speaking)
3. The original LED is de-domed is there a de-domed version for the XHP50?
THX (sorry for all these noob questions I main,y work with XML2s for may projects)

Is it SP33 v1, v2 or v3? I think v1 and v3 have the 3V version and v2 has 6V. You’ll need the correct LED. AFAIK there’s no dedomed version of the XHP50.


All is written is SP33, no version number but I measured the voltage on the LED and get 5.4V so I guess it is 6V model
Any guess what is the LED in the picture? if not a de-domed XHP50

Maybe it is not XHP50, can you help identify the LED or recommend any LED that fits to this torch ?

From the picture, that LED has the dome sheared off.
If the light has a stainless steel bezel, it is not version 1 (most probably, there may be some variants). The v.2 is 6 volts. The newer v.3 is 3 volts.

I had one v.2 whose centering gasket stayed stuck on the reflector and partially sliced the silicone dome when unscrewed. Turned angry blue to violet and successive dies would burn.

Replaced with 5000ºK from Arrow (when they had free shipping). Link

There are others as Mouser Link

It would help if you posted your location. The links given are to Canada, but you can change your location in the aforementioned stores.


That is exactly the problem with the light I am trying to fix.
Thank you

Addendum:

The driver is a buck/boost 6 Volts. You have the better of SP33 versions as very stable output. The light drops from Turbo to High when the battery level at 3.7 Volts and at 3.4 Volts to Medium. As the driver is pushing higher voltage, it requires higher current that the cell cannot deliver, hence the power drop.

And the UI is perhaps one of the most simple yet comprehensive from Sofirn.


It is not my light, just fixing it for a friend, that is the reason I have no Idea about the model etc.

Go to sofirnlight.com and email support if you can purchase the SP33 V2 replacement LED and MCPCB.

Kaidomain

If Sofirn don’t have a replacement then get this one and choose “bare led”. This will require reflowing the led to the mcpcb





THX, I have a little experience with reflow, will try it again

If you would show us the whole flashlight we can tell you if it is a V2 or V3 because they have a totally different design.

You can reflow a 3V led and a 6V led on the same 5050 footprint without changing the voltage. The 3V and 6V XHP50 are different leds.

As it has been said previously, this led has definitely been accidentally dedomed, the dome and the whole yellow phosphor is missing. You could keep the led in case you want to build a royal blue flashlight. :smiley: A normal dedomed led would still have the yellow phosphor on the die.

Sofirn has an option to order a XHP50.2 on 39mm MCPCB for SP33, just ask them if it is the 6V led.

https://sofirnlight.com/cree-led-diodes-with-pcb-board-p0087.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32857722283.html

The SP33v3.0 is easy to identify, since it has a USB-C charging port.

What is difficult to identify is the older SP33 (XHP50.2 6v) versus the newer SP33 (XHP50.2 3v) because they look physically the same.
(the older SP33 was advertised as “2500” lumens, while the newer SP33 advertised as “3000” lumens — but nothing on the flashlight itself indicates which version it is)

If the flashlight is working, I try to distinguish them by placing a full charged battery, and measure the tailcap current when set to Turbo mode.
The XHP50.2 6v will max at 6 Amps (won’t go over), whereas the newer SP33 will have 8-10 Amps.

But if the flashlight is not working, then obviously won’t be able to measure the tailcap current…


It wil cost 17usd including shipping, a bit too expensive in my opinion



It does not have charging port so probably v1 of v2


Isn't measuring 6v on the led is enough to determine that it is v2?

(I’m no modder, so as much as possible, I try something easier to do (not removing the bezel if possible, as something may fall off that I cannot put back in properly…) but I tested what you mentioned.

On an earlier SP33 (“2500” lumens) with 6v LED, I popped in a battery, set it to lowest level (hold from Off), measured the voltage is 5.12v.
On the later SP33 (“3000” lumens) with 3v LED, I popped in a battery, set to lowest level (hold from Off), measured the voltage is 2.35v.

Other thing I notice is that, I used the same battery on both flashlights, the “Lowest” level on the SP33 6v was brighter (not really a “Moon” level) than the SP33 3v (closer to a true “Moon” level)

Can you check what’s the code on to head of your SP33 unit, it should read something like “SF19L042”…

He definitely has the 6V version

SP33 V1 - XPL - 1000 lumens
SP33 V2 - XHP50.2 6V - 2500 (2200 real)
SP33 V3 - XHP50.2 3V - 3500 (3420 using 40T, otherwise 2800 with Sofirn 26650)

The SP33v2 has 2 versions:
early batch claimed is "2500" lumens (uses XHP50.2 6v) = this has No PWM on all brightness levels
newer batch claimed is "3000" lumens (uses XHP50.2 3v) = this version uses (fast) PWM for non-turbo brightness levels

I have samples of both types with me as of the moment.

there is no "v2" designation on the flashlight itself though.


I am not have the light with me but seems like it is the 6v version.
Tanks a lot