I just installed a MTN-15DDm in a Tool AA 2.0, along with a 1.5mm DTP MCPCB. It’s fitted with a 219b sw45k, as well. I had to sand the edges of the driver a little bit to fit it in the pill, but everything is working fine, generally. I did have to push off the resistors and LEDs on the tail switch PCB to get the timing to work properly. But that seems to be fine, as well. Mode switching is predictable and good.
The problem is that I can’t get the Bistro UI to “stutter” or “buzz” in configuration mode. I can enter configuration mode, but it’s just a very low light and no stutter. So it’s pretty hard to tell when I’m even on configuration mode. Strangely, the police strobe and bike flasher modes work fine (as does turbo), but the battery check mode is the same low level light with no flashing.
Did I damage something on the driver? Or is this a firmware problem?
The only other thing I can think of that I did (besides sanding the driver down a little bit) was adding the solder blob, which caused the red (+) to come out, which I reattached.
Perhaps it’s supposed to making contact with that component right near it…? I’m way out of my league in guessing this, though.
Hum, not sure if I can help much more with this man :zipper_mouth_face:
Do you have any LH351D or a different led to try?
I do not see what may be wrong :zipper_mouth_face:
When you enter config nothing blinks?
Have you tried to use a cable/wire on the bottom (instead of the tailswithc), between the battery negative pole and the edge of the battery tube, and see if it behaves the same way?
Huh, even if it is doing the same thing with a 219B and a 219C? Both work. But it has literally the same problem with each LED.
I have to go to work now, ugh! But something has to pay for all these parts and lights, I suppose. I have an SST-20 and a few more LH351D lying around to try later.
I can’t even tell when I am in configuration mode bc I get no fast blinking. I am assuming it is like the fast blinking and flashing of Anduril on my D4v2, right?
It doesn’t happen when I enter configuration mode. But I’ve been stuck in muggle mode for a bit so I know I am going in to configuration mode. I just can’t predicate what it’s doing as there are no lights blinking or flashing to tell me what option I am on or have selected…
Well, as I mentioned, I may not be the best person in this case to help you. But, even if they work, maybe it is the vf of the leds that is messing with it. Hence my suggestion to swap a different type (not Nichia).
The “buzzing” is more or less like that on Anduril, I believe, yes!
A weird things I stated
Tool AA w/ driver w/ Bistro HD OTSM + “damaged+ LH351D (the one ”fried” after putting the vapcell H10) = lowest mode/ML was not working, but the other modes were working. I replaced the LED for an XP-L HD and all started acting well. Problem was on the LED not in the driver.
If after replacing the LED it behaves the same way, it is probably in the driver then. Maybe it was bad originally or something damaged when soldering / sanding.
You can also try one thing: carefully remove some amount of solder from the bottom where the red wire is connected. I had a driver working less good due to the “excess” of solder there
Hope you can figure this out. Maybe someone can give some more help in this case
I will try your suggestions when I get home from work in the wee hours of the morning.
Perhaps I immediately damaged the Nichias upon installation and they aren’t functioning properly. Hopefully putting in an LH351D will tell me whether that’s the case.
Also, removing solder. Who knows?
I wonder if there is something damaged on/in the 7135 chip that controls the lower modes. The FET seems to work fine (higher levels and bright strobes).
I will keep my fingers crossed until I can try later. Will let you know! Thanks as usual!
I wonder if the (+) wire is just in the solder and not wrapped around to the bottom of the driver! Could that cause this, you think? Or would it just not “work”?
Either way I will hopefully find out later tonight.
Bump for Monday and those wishing to help me and avoid work…
I swapped the emitter to an LH351D last night and had the same problem.
Either the driver firmware is wonky? Or I have a short somewhere, perhaps?
I tried taking excess solder off the back. Same result.
This morning I reattached new AWG wire (much harder than I thought it would be on a tiny driver). The light didn’t work, then it did, but it’s stuck on high and half-press doesn’t do anything. Clearly I now have a short somewhere, again.
Hopefully I can get it back to at least where it was yesterday…
I want to contact Richard at Mountain electronics as a last resort, as I can’t be sure if it is firmware. I suppose I could order another and try again to see.
Just another quick bump for visibility in case any of you electronics experts can weigh in…
I’ve switched in a few different emitters and am back to the 219b. I’ve replaced the wires from the board, cleaned up the board of any excess solder/flux residue. No luck.
No distinction between 3 lowest levels of light, no batt check, no configuration stutters/flashes.
"No distinction between 3 lowest levels of light, no batt check, no configuration stutters/flashes."
Looking closer (and deleting my last useless post), it seems there was a bigger problem. The particular blinks that aren't working also these low modes, and are just another symptom.
It basically looks like all the 7135 modes don't function properly. That points to either a wrong pinout configuration for this particular board (defined in tk-attiny.h), or, and this can be quite likely, a broken 7135. 7135s go bad really easily. I forgot now what mode they tend to fail in though. I did have a simple DVM test to toss bad ones, but I forgot. In fact though, I think this is right. They fail open on (mistyped), which is why a simple resistance check when disconnected shows that they are failed, but I'm not certain now.
UPDATE: I was confused (by another comment) and thought you were using bitro-HD so the rest didn't apply. But recalling more, I'd bet a good bit this was a bad 7135.
