Got a metal checkering file yesterday. Tested it out on a cheap light first ;)
STOCK
CHECKERED!
Looks pretty grippy .
Very nice! I thought about doing something similar on my dry oncei get it but am not sure how to get the outer edges nice and clean on a diagonal knurling. looks likeI have to get one of these files. You did great for your first try. 
sure is - makes it very easy to spin that ring (zoom) w/ your thumb
I think most guys use a 60 degree needle file to bring the squares to a point, but they're sharp enough for me as is
thanks :) I've done some checkering on wood, but this is the first metal.
I'll be doing the DRY, after some more practice. I can't decide exactly how - just some sections or the whole body tube, and either diagonal or straight.
something like these, and regular needle files, will be a great help
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/813632/baker-die-sinkers-riffler-file-10-piece-set
that's where I got the checkering file (20lpi). much cheaper than brownells.
You can layout a diagonal line w/ tape, then a razor, then a needle file, and then work from there w/ the checkering file but diagonal will be MUCH more difficult, imo
Very nicely done.
How do you do it?
knurlingFoy
A whole flashlight body like that would be pretty impressive.
Indeed it would be. One obvious advantage would also be the increased heatsinking surface. Cooling that one with just a bit of airflow should be pretty easy.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/187003/grobet-6-checkering-file-20-lines-per-inch
I removed the bezel (the black part in front of the checkered knob is one piece)
wrapped the body w/ electrical tape
tilted the file to one side so that one row of teeth would touch and visually aligned the edge of the file w/ the edge of the knob, then made the first scratch.
slowly made that deep enough to guide the file then gradually tilted it flat to create the other lines. worked my way around it laying out the lines (round would be much easier, double corners were a pita).
then I started the vertical lines the same way. Once I got one groove, i worked the file flat to get more, then just kept hopping over a few grooves at a time to start some new ones.
once it was laid out I worked the outside lines to a common depth (the top and bottom line that go all the way around are almost a scratch) then cut the depth of the rest to meet them.
when it was all cut I took a fine flat mill file and flattened the original flat edges and rounded the corners, then I washed it off in the sink.
that was by done by hand and eye, sitting on the couch. I think I'll do the DRY in a vice w/ my magnifier lamp 
having a light that you can put next to the checkering (instead of pointed at it) so that even a scratch casts a shadow, helps a LOT
maybe a little overboard though? I'm not sure. We'll find out eventually :)
cooling - yes, definitely - unfortunately, it collects crud nicely, too lol
Good job! When you graduating to 1911s? Buddy at work is a checkering fool but I’m an old school stipple guy. I get dealer cost at Brownells but no discount on gunsmith tools.
thanks! would you believe I enjoyed doing that 
I've actually got a friend's gov't model that was given to me to customize w/o any specific requests...'just make it custom' type of a deal... it will get some checkering
the problem I have when stippling is I don't know when to stop...I'm sort of OCD about symmetry. but when somebody else does it, I like it :)
The midway file seems high enough quality. The real test would be how long it holds up when working stainless ;)
It came with one broken tooth and the outside edge (not the cutting edge) is ~1mm wider at the base than at the top (affects lining things up).
I think the higher lpi would be much better for guns.
you had better already have some callouses if you put some hot loads through your 1911 w/ 20 lpi...
Here is an excellent beginner's tutorial if any one wants to try this:
http://www.ontargetcgw.com/basefile/diy-check.htm
They also have one for stippling:
thanks, i will definitely be using some zip ties next time!