So I have seen this drop-in set fro $3, seems like a good deal.
Then I would need some XM-L's on stars and a driver, is that all? Oh and some thermal paste.. Am I missing anything else?
I'd like to have a go at making a small batch of 3 mode drop-ins, maybe 10 or so. But I don't really know where to start.
What size board that the emitter is on will I need to fit properly? And where would I look for 3.5-4.2v 3 mode drivers?
LED board - 14mm to 16mm
Driver - 17mm, Nanjg 105c (or similar 7135-based board, just google it), single Li-Ion battery
Fujik thermal paste (or something similar)
Wiring - I like silicone insulated wiring for flexibility, otherwise standard PVC insulated wire can work
Cheap soldering station (if you don't have one) - circuitspecialists.com
Ok, who is it that provides most of the info on that wiki? Because that really is a wealth of information that I tend to forget about.
Just looked up the Nanjg 105c, they are only 1 amp?
I actually dont know what I am looking for in the driver itself but I thought I would be looking for something about 3 amps to 3.5 amps for brightness. Although I might be wrong..
I'm aiming to make some drop-ins brighter than the UltraFire 3 mode from ManaFont.
Whoops, I meant the Nanjg 105A I think. I never pay attention to the names, I just refer to them as an 8x7135. You can add more 7135's to get 350ma more for each one.
Thanks for the wiki link, although it doesnt say much about the driver.
Is there anything decent that can will drive hard for cheap? I don't mind buying in bulk as I want about 10 or so anyway.
I saw some thread about them a few days ago but I cant find it now, they come in packs of 10 or something like that but I don't remember how many volts and amps they were.
That wiki has a driver page with a list of the popular drivers. Just look up "constant current drivers" - 8 x 7135 boards (105a) will get you 2.8 amps, which is great for an XML.
Ah the 105A one is 2800mAh, that sounds a lot better. I can only find links to KD that the pages don't exist any more. I'll try looking a little harder though.
Yeah, just search around. Last I checked I believe cnqualitygoods sold them.
This is the new version, it allows for just over 3amps instead of the old 2.8amps. you can buy them in singles as well.
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020073
it is a great driver, really low low, really high high. - lots of choices on modes and memory.
Nice price, thanks.
So my question is about the thermal paste. Do I fill the drop in with thermal paste and then press the driver into it ???????
What would be a good choice for a LED or should I just pick a few to try out????
Thanks,
Ed
Still looking for the thermal paste answer.
With the Super Bowl over and NASCAR a week away I was thinking this would be a long thread. Must be everyone was up watching NHRA
@ Ed I'd like to know that too, but it would have to be a non electrical conductive kind if you are meant to cover circuits with it.
I'm still looking for a neutral white XM-L for cheap as well, every other XM-L I have used (out of 7) only 1 hasn't had a strong blue tint. Thats the UF MF 3 mode, I'm not sure if its neutral but its no where near as blue as all the others I have seen.
Also considering a U2 but its cheaper to buy a U2 drop in and just change the driver than to buy a U2 alone on a star.
AFAIK Fujik is an adhesive for you might have to use a bit force if you some day want to take the LED off.
On the other hand, it keeps the LED securely on pill. I have not used Fujik on P60, since I think the LED stays put quite nicely on normal paste and tightened reflector, which presses the LED down. OTOH, I tend to change LED´s often, for more permanent hold use Fujik.
I have not potted my drivers, mostly because of the same reason. I like the easy access.
Thermal paste:
Using now the general thermal paste from DX to sink the LED -> Pill -surface and Pill -> Reflector -threads.
This is the regular thermal paste : http://www.dealextreme.com/p/stars-professional-thermal-compound-with-injection-tube-10-pack-13915
For Pro-touch, get silver paste / adhesive ( IMO un-necessary unless striving for absolute max lumens etc.).
Fujik: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-grease-like-4579
If you are going to wrap Dropin (important) to secure Dropin -> Body heat transfer, I have been using tens of feets of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Roll-Single-Conductive-COPPER-FOIL-TAPE-12MM-X-30M-/220901468452?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336ec0e924
Remember, less is more with paste. The right way would IMO be to apply as thin layer as possible just to fill the small "gaps" between two metals.
Use a piece of plastic to apply a thin layer, like a butter spoon :)
Thanks for the input Cheep Thrills, you answered my question.
I did build 1 P60 but after a week the LED just glow super faint so I will have to take it apart and check it out. Could be a bad solder joint or the fact it got dropped a few times, well alot...............
I think the copper take will do the trick without anything else.
It is most important to put Something between the LED disc and pill. Thermal adhesive, thermal paste or silver paste, pick any.
Almost as important as this, is to wrap the dropin. Wrap the tape tightly, you have enough when the bigger spring cannot press the dropin out. You may need to use some force to get a good fit when inserting dropin.