Just ordered a torch for my brother (a Solarforce L2P) and DinoDirect decided to have their WF-504B XML special (which I nabbed for $9.75 :bigsmile: ) so I have decided my brother gets the Wf-504B and I get the Solarforce however now his friend is after a dive light for down to 20m (max). My question is: is there a way to modify the tail-cap of the L2P to withstand the pressure at that depth without it clicking in? After a bit of searching it appears someone on CPF has taken one down to 27m however the clicky was the weakest factor as it caved in with the pressure below 15m resulting in an inability to change modes or turn it off.
Dive lights and spring clickies don’t really go together.
You could try a forward clicky and then (if it doesn’t leak) at least it will be stuck in the on position rather than off.
Unless it’s all glued together however it’s going to leak at some point.
I took a light similar to what you are talking about and removed the switch and epoxied over the resulting hole and simply used the light as a “twisty”.
I took it down to 100 fsw and turned it off and back on again with no leaking.
Most lens are a little too thin for my comfort level to use as a dive light. Many of the o-ring designs at the front lens aren’t adequate as well.
It’s really cheaper to just get a dive light.
On the other hand if you are doing it just for fun and learning (as I was) then it’s not that hard to make it waterproof. You can’t just take it as is and expect it to last long however unless you are just “diving” in a pool or something.
Pressure at 99 feet is 3 times greater than the surface so a total of 4 atmospheres of pressure.